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Andyrt200

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Everything posted by Andyrt200

  1. Andyrt200

    E39 530i sluggish low RPMs

    It was £22, there are quite a few others for around £10, I thought maybe the slightly more expensive option would be better... Hope your Hella ones work ok.
  2. Andyrt200

    E39 Bonnet Badge

    Hmm I’ll be interested in this too, the one I got off eBay has gone all yellow just one year after fitting it.
  3. Andyrt200

    M54 Cam sensor

    Hi, Can I have a quote for an exhaust cam sensor 12147518628 Also wheel arch liner screws 51718204807 I think they come in packs of ten, that would be fine. Thanks Andy
  4. Andyrt200

    M54 Cam sensor

    The order turned up this morning, that’s what I call service, thanks very much again It of course works perfectly too, the useless cheap eBay sensor is on its way back to the seller!
  5. Andyrt200

    E39 530i sluggish low RPMs

    The post lady brought a nice surprise just before we were heading out, so the new BMW sensor is in, no error codes now & the VANOS readings in INPA were moving about nicely right away. I got a quite a shock just pulling out of the driveway & pinned everyone to their seats! So it’s certainly made a difference If the new seals bed in now they are moving & it gets even better I’ll be very impressed & a bit annoyed I’ve been driving it with the VANOS not working for so long! The new BMW sensor looks quite different to the original BMW sensor: (new BMW sensor on the left there) I didn’t take a picture of it next to the Delphi one, but it is quite similar to it, this was the original next to the Delphi: But the Delphi is clearly not a real one with the writing rubbed off. It probably would have worked if it was!
  6. Andyrt200

    E39 530i sluggish low RPMs

    £99.90, I just want it to work properly now I’ve spent so much time on it! I’m guessing the inlet could be faulty but just not showing a code too, but I don’t really want to go poking at it just incase. I’ll see what happens with the new exhaust one first. (The eBay seller of the Delphi one is going to give me £20 back on that one). When we got the E39 a good 6 or 7 years ago now it has done about 120k then & I remember thinking it seemed very lacking in low RPM grunt compared to my old mildly tuned M30 535i. I just put it down to it being a multi valve engine that made good top end power but not as much low down torque as my old M30 single valve. I’m going to both very happy & annoyed if a properly working VANOS makes a big difference
  7. Andyrt200

    E39 530i sluggish low RPMs

    I have genuine one on its way from Cotswold now, I’ll let you know what happens when it turns up too. I did read somewhere just taking a working sensors out & putting it back was enough to stop it working. Thinking about it that was actually what happened to mine too. It wasn’t showing any code in the E39 but a friends 325 had a code for the exhaust sensors on his car so I stuck my “good” one in his car but the code was still there on his. Then when I put it back in mine it started intermittently giving a code. Now, a good year or two later it’s permanently showing the code. I didn’t really notice the performance dropping off at the time so it was probably not working properly & or the seals were gone too. Mind you I was nursing a very poorly seldom used car about then so it may not have stood out. There was such a long list of stuff wrong I’m only just getting to faults that don’t stop it going now!
  8. Andyrt200

    M54 Cam sensor

    Ordered, thanks very much!
  9. Andyrt200

    E39 530i sluggish low RPMs

    Yeah, my Delphi said it was oem & the seller seems very surprised it doesn’t work. I have asked Cotswold for a price for an exhaust sensor on their page, hopefully they will get back today with one. A hell of a lot of money has been sunk into our E39 over the last couple of months, another £100 or so isn’t going to notice much!
  10. Andyrt200

    E39 530i sluggish low RPMs

    Do you have a fault code for any of the sensors? I still have after changing the VANOS seals. I found this good video for testing them I know is says E46, but its an M54. I have a scrap M54B25 in the back of the garage & was getting bits of a 323i yesterday so pulled the exhaust sensor off that. However neither of the exhaust sensors from those engine showed any reading at all from the wrench test in that video (the S/N were all the same bar the last digit). The original sensor from my engine will give a reading as they show in the video from the wrench test. My Delphi sensor won’t drop the V down as low as my original. The delphi sensor is the top one & clearly not a real BMW one in disguise! I’m guessing the permanent magnet in the sensor goes off over time in the real sensors, I could feel some of the sensors had more magnetic pull than others. Mine is odd eveything checks out with the original sensor & the car side of the wiring but it still gives the sensor error code as soon as the engine starts. I should probably do the cranking over by hand test to see if the sensor can see the cam, I’m guessing it can’t quite detect the cam. I didn’t bother trying the two sensors that didn’t pass the wrench test. But my original & the Delphi both still give the error code. My VANOS readings in INPA still won’t budge, but I guess that is because it knows the sensor isn’t working so is locking the VANOS in a safe position. It drives ok, actually probably a little better since doing the seals, but is clearly still lacking in low rpm power. I guess you could try unplugging one of the sensors & see if you get an error code. That may lock the VANOS down for the time being making the car better to drive. I really am guessing now but I assume if you have a sensor the engine can’t see is malfunctioning it will try to adjust the VANOS to the wrong amounts accordingly. I will probably need to get a new exhaust sensor, but I just want to be sure my C110 code scanner isn’t getting the inlet & exhaust sensors mixed up, INPA gives 18 NW_A as an error, I need to check that means exhaust sensor...
  11. Andyrt200

    Sometimes won’t crank over

    I tried to get the remote locking working a year ago, but the keys kept going out of sync shortly after I’d done the resync, then I started getting this non starting issue. I assumed the issues were related but at the time someone pointed out the remote locking & immobiliser are not connected at all so they couldn’t have any effect on each other. However I gave up trying to use the remote locking & just locked it with the key in the door. It has been starting fine for the last year. I had almost forgotten about the non starting issue & have since spent a lot of time & money replace most of the suspension & braking system. The E39 is our main car now so I need to fix the non starting issue quickly & properly. After first recent non starting issue I found these codes: I assume they have been building up for the last year, I cleared them, it was ok for a few more starts but then wouldn’t start again. The codes stored this time were: All the dashboard lights come on as normal, it just won’t crank over. Leaving it for a bit, or getting out & locking the door before trying again have been working, but last time it got to the point we couldn’t use it till it just suddenly somehow seemed to fix itself. I tried Googling that error code but can’t find anything useful, so any suggestions would be gratefully received!
  12. Andyrt200

    Sometimes won’t crank over

    Thanks for all the help, I got the new EWS fitted at last. It was £111.34 & there is a programming centre in the UK so BMW parts got it in the next day. Glad @amazighman (I think it was) told me I needed INPA a while ago, it was a very quick procedure to do that sync with it, shift + F6 in the engine section. It cranks over but won’t fire without the sync. It started first time, every time since, I have been trying it quite a lot just to be sure! Nice to have a car you can just get in & drive again I may actually get round to working out what’s wrong with the remote central locking at some point now. There are a few other minor issues to fix first though.
  13. The little cog light is on the dash, it seems to be stuck in one gear, the gear manual selector has no effect. Neither INPA or my C110 can establish coms with the transmission & under engine fault codes it has (amongst many other things) Signal CAN EGS. The new EWS is waiting for us at BMW but my better half didn’t get there in time to pick it up yesterday in the other car. She needed the space of the E39 today so the only way I found I could be sure it would start when she got back to it was to leave the battery disconnected for over half an hour. She set off armed with a spanner & it was all working fine till the last stop before home. Its started fine but she decided a safe place to leave the spanner was jamed in on top of the battery! Of course it shorted out the +ve terminal to the battery clamp. Luckily it seems it was only a quick short, the burn marks are only small, could have been much worse! I assume the spike has blown the ECU. Second hand ECUs look very cheap so I guess it probably best to just try one? Most annoying I’d only just finished the VANOS seals & it was the first trip out since that. Every time I run it now I keep getting all the exhaust sensors throwing a fault. I only moved the connections a bit when doing the VANOS, so assume that is probably something else associated with the spike rather than something I forgot to reconnect, I didn’t finish the VANOS till 5am this morning so I could have missed something. (A cracked cam cover is the last thing you want to find at 3am when you think you’re almost finished!)
  14. Me too! I found a 323i in the local scrap yard that had the correct pulg & enough wire attched to it to make a nice repair. The cables are all very carefully tucked away this time! All working properly again now Useful link thanks, I really need to get an android tablet, the kids broke theirs & I only have Apple stuff. There are quite a few things you can only get on android...
  15. Found the problem, I must not have not properly secured all the 02 sensor wires properly after doing the VANOS seals. I could have sworn I had put them back properly but one must have dropped down too close to the exhaust manifold. The outer sheathing looked fine but the cables felt a bit stiff inside so on cutting the sheath back I found the insulation of 4 wires inside was all melted together. After pealing then apart & temporarily wrapping them insulation tape all seemed to be working fine again. I’ll have to get a section of that bit of the loom & splice it in.
  16. Sorry I probably wasn’t very clear, I did get WDS working. It just took three different PCs before I found one I could actually get the Java security exceptions to actually work on! As it says on the first page you need to add the web address to the list of sites allowed. For some reason it wouldn’t let me add anything to the box on windows 8.1, luckily I still have an old PC with XP on, it worked on that.
  17. Sorry I only just noticed you added this to your post, thanks! I stuck my meter into the side of the fuse that links to the offending items, but with all four O2 sensors & the EGS/ AGS unplugged it still shows there is a dead short to ground. I didn’t try putting any more fuses in, I’m fairly sure the meter is showing the problem it still there with everything unplugged, unless I’m missing something! WDS is much easier to use when you know which diagrams to look at! I found the one that shows the AGS (as it calls it) linked to the heater supply for all the O2 sensors, I was hoping there would be some more connections I couldn’t see in the car I could test at but it seems not. Looking quickly at the wiring for the O2 sensors it seems ok, I thought I’d been careful to hook it all back up after doing the VANOS seals but maybe something snagged somewhere. Still more checking required...
  18. Ah that’s brilliant thanks very much! I probably could have got part of the way with just the MS43 bit so I was sure I was looking at the correct thing, I had seen one diagram in WDS showing they shared a fuse but they didn’t in others. I have tried to work things out with WDS in the past by guessing which diagrams applied to my car & just got very confused with the endless permutations! Has new TIS kind of taken over from WDS then? I’ have to take a look at if some time. When ever I come back to WDS there seems to have been some update of something stopping Java running & it’s always been too long for me to remember what I did the last time to get it to work! I didn’t know the the lambda sensors could short out like that though so you saved me a load of diagnostic time there, thanks again I guess the car will drive kind of ok with just the one (hopefully!) lambda disconnected, but I guess it better to not take it too far. Is there a prefered manufacturer of them or should I just get one from BMW, I don’t fancy changing it more than once!
  19. So after swearing at Java for quite a while I finally got WDS to run. Then after a good amount of more swearing at the E-box captive nuts that just twisted in the plastic I got the cover off & found one of the 30A fuses in A8680 had blown, it was the one for the red & white wines to the EGS (why does WDS call it the AGS?). However when I replaced the fuse it just blew again. More checking need... I think from looking at the associated pictures I have MS43 in WDS, Or maybe MSS52 looks more like it how can I tell for sure? I guess maybe INPA will tell me which DME I have, I’ll check tomorrow. My EGS is GS8.60.4
  20. Andyrt200

    E39 530i sluggish low RPMs

    Yes, I only replaced the exhaust as it was only that one giving the error code. I haven’t touched the intake side. Its done 183k miles so I guess it possible the vanos is so bad its not moving at all!
  21. Andyrt200

    Air Suspension - Arnott vs Aerosus

    It seems exactly the same as it was with the original sports bags when I fitted mine, so yes! I did actually have one fail minutes after putting the car back on the ground, it was the steel top where its pressed into shape, but I think that was a one off the other & the replacement were fine, they do make you pay for all the postage costs for the return though In the end I had to fit their valve block too that seems fine. For fitting it eventually occurred to me to stick the compressors blow gun into the air fitting at the top to inflate the bag up so you can get the retaining clips in easily.
  22. Andyrt200

    E39 530i sluggish low RPMs

    Glad you’re getting somewhere, I meant to say about trying a second hand sensor, you got there before me! I’ll probably end up taking that cheaper sensor off mine in end.
  23. Andyrt200

    E39 530i sluggish low RPMs

    Ah interesting, I just tried & mine don’t move at all! I assume my INPA is ok as the other tab for all the engine data works fine. I have got the cam position sensor error showing coming back all the time though. I guess once I have got the thing to actually start reliably I can fit the new seals, then probably new sensors!! As you said its never ending.
  24. Andyrt200

    E39 530i sluggish low RPMs

    Try imgur, get the app on your phone, sign up for free, then you can upload photos to it & copy the link directly in here with no other code or text & they pop up, really easy (works fine on a PC too). As for your fault I hope it’s not the X8R vanos kit I just ordered one Reading the other posts I see your interest in the cam sensors, did you look at the live analogue (I think) read out from your sensors and in INPA, someone said on a different post they should be changing with engine revs & not stuck in one position. Out of interest was it like this before you did your VANOS?
  25. Andyrt200

    Sometimes won’t crank over

    Tell me about it the alternator went the other day too, for the third time in recent weeks we had to use the TVR as the reliable back up car today! After leaving the E39 for an hour or two with the battery disconnected it started first time when I just went to try it. I’ll still be ordering an EWS though, I find out what happens when I connect it up. Maybe at some point I’ll run out of things to replace....
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