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About Andyrt200

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    E39 530i Touring MSport

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  1. Andyrt200

    Suspension overhaul / eBay kits

    I just opened the new (October issue of) PPC magazine & found they managed to spread my pictures over three pages, great to see it in print. It reminded me I never finished off updating the pictures on this thread. Thanks, I like modifying cars too though, I just like to be sure I have a solid correct base to start with. Mind you I was keen to get an MSport as BMW had done just about all the mods I want for an every day car. I spent a long time trying to get my my last E34 535i SE to MSport spec! My other cars are a lot more modified (in race track way more than max power) Some of these pictures are in different places, but I thought I put them all here. Some of the jacking point work I fixed the bubbles at the bottoms of the arches & blended the paint back in too. The rear alloy callipers were fine, but the fronts needed a rebuilt I was hoping to just clean up & paint this petrol pipe, but as soon as I touched it I smelled petrol & the pipe got wet! Oddly the other two right next to it were fine. I got a new genuine steel pipe from BMW (the fuel pipes come pre bent to shape) I was very worried about trying to fit a new hard pipe to the old rubber pipe at rear & figured an identically shaped pipe was the most likely to seal up. The only way to replace the rubber pipe is to take the petrol tank out, I’d managed to do all the other work without removing it so I didn’t really want to at this late stage! Luckily the original rubber pipe was still like new though & the new hard pipe sealed up fine (I have been keeping an eye on it). The rubber BMW used is incredibly good quality, I’m always amazed at the exhaust hangers stll looking like new when I’v had replacements for other cars that last less than a year. Unfortunately I’ve had new rubber petrol pipes lasting less than that! With a nod to modifying I put on some staggered BBS CH-R 19” wheels. It still rides far better than a new (in 2007) 320d MSport on 17” wheels did & better than the (2010) 325i SE did when we got fed up with the 320s harsh ride. The (2012) 640d MSport on 20”s was just stupid, never mind harsh ride is was just down right dangerous with the tyres bouncing causing the car to move about all over the place - stupid runflat tyres! The E39s original 17s are sticking around though, with winter tyres on... This was the main lot replaced (Air bags got chucked before this picture) Then the alternator went too, I found the cooling pipe was full of leaves, that probably didn’t help! I was kind of glad it did though as I found the inlet pipe was badly split. The ABS module needed a rebuilt to fix the three lights on the dash that appeared on the dash. Along with quite a bit of work to get the VANOS correctly working (wish I’d done that long ago!) it’s totally transformed the car. Just before doing all the work we did a 250 mile trip to Scotland taking in a nice road over the mountains, it was really horrible to drive. That spurred me on to fix it, I did the exact same drive the other week & it was lovely. Just as it should be feeling like you just popped to the shops rather than a 4 hour drive. So as the water pump was the first thing I changed before any of this I think that only leaves the DISA rebuild to do as preventative maintenance. Although (ignoring some ongoing issues with the EWS) its driving perfectly again & I’m a little reluctant to go poking about again!
  2. Andyrt200

    DME update with WinKFP

    Jimmy kindly gave me a link to the latest E39 datan files, looking at a few different guides there are about it seems I only need to import the PABG, P-SGBD (though most of those already seemed to be there) & the assembly line data. Going to Choose ZUSB I can't see my number listed, but a lot of the guides say to just use the Update ZUSB, so I tried that with VIN & it got me as far as the screen grab, but there are no numbers to say what version I'm on now or what I'd be updated to. I'm not sure I'd actually do the update, I just want to check if there is one available first before thinking about it.
  3. Andyrt200

    ABS/DSC module HELP

    Yes, he rebuilt mine for me a month or two ago, it looks good & works fine now. He tests the unit first & will send it back for a much lower cost if finds there isn’t any wrong with it. His ebay name is leon-repairs but he isn’t listing any repair jobs at the moment. You could try sending him a message though ebay.
  4. Andyrt200

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Spurred on by the success of the old school easy start actually getting the thing running again, I thought about what other old products I had in the back of the garage & remembered the Autoglym Bumper Care. It transformed the very tired looking wing mirrors from this To this so I did the plastic on the wipers too. I’ll do the rest of the trim when I have time. I did just the front bumper insert that I thought looked fine before but it’s made the front look much newer
  5. Thanks, yes I think it must have been. I only just found your post now though I took the plugs out & checked them all, each with their own coil pack, they were sparking fine. I had the fuel pump fuse out while doing it so any remaining fuel should have been flush out too. So I put them back in but it made no difference. Its odd they work fine out of the engine, I’d heard of plugs not working after getting too wet (with petrol) & using a blow lamp on them but I guess the oven is much the same. I didn’t try any heat as they seemed to be ok, but they must still need the heat in that situation. I had been trying with the throttle open for a bit yesterday it was trying to go a bit more like that but wouldn’t catch. In the end I sprayed some easy start in & cranked it for ages with the throttle open, thankfully it eventually coughed back into life. I kept the revs at 3k for a minute or so & a load of white smoke came out then it was fine. Its running perfectly again now. I think one (or more) of the coil packs can’t have been getting a good earth on to the new cam cover to start with, causing it to miss, cut out and then flood. I fitted earth straps to all the coil packs now just to be sure While checking I was surprised to find the brass nuts that hold the coil pack bolts don’t have a connection to the earth plate (on the three cam covers I have at least), so the bolts don’t actually get an earth connection. So the coil packs rely on the contact at the bottom, they are often marked like this: hense the earth straps to every one now! Just for reference, you know the crank sensor is ok if you can see 200rpm while cranking. I could see that in INPA, I didn’t actually look at the dashboard but I assume it would show on there.
  6. As I had six of them I've fitted earth straps to all the coil packs now, but it's made no difference. I've tested three packs with the plug lead so far & they are working fine, but don't want to put too much raw fuel through the cats trying too much. I did have the fuses in the glove box listed for the fuel pump out for a bit, that gave an obvious error for the fuel pump but also "130 timeout can-botschaft asc1" but that error doesn't come back with the fuses back in so I assume its related to that. With the fuses in I get no error codes, it tries to start (like an old car with bad points on a cold wet day) sometimes catching a bit but not starting up properly. I don't think the coil packs can be the issue, so I'm assuming now that something else has gone wrong & it's just coincidence, I guess maybe crank sensor or something, can they just suddenly go & not give an error code?
  7. I can smell petrol when I take the plugs out. With an old plug lead between the the coil & plug my old timing lamp tells me the there is current going to the plug. I’ll check the rest like this but I really am very confused now! Maybe its flooded with trying too much, the fuel pump fuses are out now so more cranking should just be blowing the last of the petrol out of the exhaust now.
  8. I’ve just checked the wiring from the injector plugs back to the DME, that is all correct. The injectors all have the same resistance reading. Earth straps all good, body of each injection seem to be getting a good ground. I guess that is the only possible difference but the earth plate on the new cover they bolt to is all clean, it’s possible the earth connection checks out ok with a meter but a problem occurred when the high current is required for the spark. Seems unlikely though I did check the connecting points looked good. For now I’m leaving the battery disconnected for half an hour (while it also changes just to be sure). I found this big crack in my original cam cover just as I was about to put it back on last time I had a spare but the cam cut out tab was broken. I needed to use the car the next day though so put that cover on with a lot of sealant. However I wasn’t too surprised to smell burning oil a few weeks later. The back of the engine was the first place I looked & sure enough: So I got the third cover, only when I pulled the second on off I found I’d forgotten to put sealant on the other cut out, it was actually that one that was leaking in the picture above, the one that had both tabs correctly on place. I was so worried about the broken one I forgot about the good one, it had got to about 4am by that point though! The latest cover looks good with no cracks or anything broken & seems to have gone in fine (with sealant on all the cam cut outs!), I just need to get the thing to run before I can actually tell though!
  9. I’m sure the answer is in the title, but it seems a bit odd. I’m now on my third cam cover, hoping that one will keep the all the oil in the engine I obviously have had to remove the coil packs every time & I haven’t had a problem before. But this last time I went to start it up, it fired up first time but ran roughly for a couple of seconds then cut out. The diagnostics said I had a misfire on no. 4 so checked that coil pack but it seemed fine. But on try to start it now it sounds like it’s only catch one cylinder & can’t fire up at all. Any suggestions? I checked the coil packs all have a good ground connection, but can’t think of much else to check. It was running perfectly before.
  10. Andyrt200

    VANOS Overhaul M54 E39 Manual Sport

    The X8R kits was indeed very good, all the rubber seals had gone rock hard, it had everything like that except the flat seals that go behind the castings that create the cylinders to house & hold the pistons in ttelracs last picture there: The original seals seem fine to reuse, just don’t go ripping anything off before checking what you have with your kit! My Delphi sensor didn’t work at all, but after I fitted a genuine BMW one it kicked the VANOS into life made a big difference right away. Now after a good few hundred miles it is running even better. To answer my own question about autos - it makes a massive difference to them, the gear change is so much smoother when just driving about normally, it changes far less often as the engine had so much more low rpm torque & the change is much smoother too. I guess the change points & torque converter etc were all carefully tailored to a properly working engine! (Just don’t start the job when you’re pushed for time anyway, I had too many other distractions get in the way & it was topped off by finding the plastic cam cover was cracked, so didn’t finish till 5am! Unfortunately that meant I wasn’t so careful making sure the wires to the lambda sensors were properly secured, could have sworn I had, but one must have dropped down melting the wires under the outer covering. If you find the auto box suddenly goes into limp home mode you have done the same, it shares a fuse with the lambda sensors!)
  11. Andyrt200

    Jack pads and sill condition

    Looks great! Well worth the the effort for such a nice car Many many years ago I did all the stone chips on my dads G plate Diamond Schwartz E34 (back in the days when BMs were still quite an exclusive make & the facelift E34 was just in the show rooms) it took ages but made a massive difference on the lovely deep black paint. I caught his before they had started to rust, for those you need a very fine brush to get the colour into the bottom of the chip with out it going over the edge. Then you need to fill the rest with lacquer so its slightly proud & once dry flat it back with the finest grade of wet & dry you can get. Then buff with cutting compund (T-cut etc). Or just get a good chips away guy to come to you house & do it for you! I have never done a rusty chip that wasn’t part of a bigger spray job, as you found, usually the rust spreads out a lot further under the paint than it seems. Generally it makes the area needing touching in too big. Its stands out too much if you try to touch an area in an area bigger than a chip, it would end up looking worse than it did before. If the rust hasn’t got so bad it’s started to bubble you could try some geox gel then their primer & build up from that. That’s something I kept meaning to try but left to long on a different car & now the rust has spread little legs under the surrounding paint out so its too late.
  12. Andyrt200

    New EWS keeps loosing sync with DME

    Yes, thanks again for that, I was thinking the virtual com port into the windows 8.1 laptop, that then connects to the virtual XP machine running Progman with in the windows 8.1 laptop was possibly not the best idea when I just tried to see if it could talk to the car yesterday, just before reading your post, it couldn’t connect on my first try as it goes. A little more checking confirms further week links that can cause the procedure to brick the ECU is the power supply you use to keep the car at a steady 13.5v, regular battery chargers can apparently be noisy & cause it to brick too. Also the virtual XP machine is apparently more likely to cause problems with bottle necks than the virtual com port, so both together is most likely a recipe for failure! INPA with the USB cable on the same laptop works fine, but INPA is running in windows 8.1 there. I have got a trusty old desktop PC with XP & a real COM port. But I think I’d probably still be better off finding someone else with the proper kit for what would hopefully be a one off thing!
  13. Andyrt200

    New EWS keeps loosing sync with DME

    Ah, thanks, that’s exactly what I was afraid of! Shame my old laptop with the COM port packed in. I’ll have to find someone with a better inface than my USB one then...
  14. Andyrt200

    New EWS keeps loosing sync with DME

    So after a lot more searching I have found some threads where people are having the exact same issue, where they have replaced the old EWS 3 with the new EWS 4.3 (the only one you can buy now) & then find DME loses sync with the EWS sometime after the initial successful sync. It seems the DME needs reflashing with the latest firmware, to match that of the newer EWS 4.3. Even though the new EWS was programmed with the correct codes for my car there is some incompatibility between the units causing them to go out of sync. It seems Progman V32 comes with the latest versions ready to use, I got that on the disc from @jimmy so will have to get it installed, I've only been using INPA so far. If anyone has any pointers on using Progman I'd be very happy to hear them, I'm not sure I want my first got with it to be re-writing the DME!
  15. I thought I’d start a new thread about this with a title about new problem, it follows on from the issues I was having with it not cranking: A new EWS fixed that problem, it always cranks over now with either key but a week or so after fitting it seems to have caused a new problem of the EWS loosing sync with the DME (ECU). I get the same error message every time: F2 on this screen resyncs it fine: So as long as I keep the laptop in the car I can get it going quite quickly, but it’s not ideal! I have been searching through every thread I can find but I can’t find any with a solution, just people assuming it’s something to do with the new EWS being 4.3. I found a thread where one guy got a used DME virginised after a specialist told him his old one was damaged, but he still had this same issue after that. I spoke to a friend who runs a garage with a lot of BMs going through & he could only think of having the DME modified so its no longer looking for the code from the EWS. That is a possibility, I had only seen the EWS delete modules before & people had found they caused no end of problems. I would rather keep my new EWS if possible. I think my old EWS was version 3 so had the rolling code to the DME, there doesn’t seem to be a set number of starts before the issue occurs again now though. Battery voltage is often sighted as a cause but most of the threads start with people saying they have put in a new battery but its made no difference. I think the only time battery voltage actually causes a problem is when it really gives up when trying to crank over & the rolling codes then get lost. My battery voltage is always good & it has no problems cranking the engine over. Annoyingly there were a couple of shorts just before I fitted the new EWS, so it is possible the DME was damaged, though it seems to be working fine in every other respect. So the only options I can see right now are to send off my DME for the EWS delete (hopefully that would also confirm if my DME was damaged too) or get a used DME, have that virginised & see if that works with the new EWS. Unless anyone else has any better ideas?