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Blackman

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Everything posted by Blackman

  1. Hey everyone, Decided to start a project thread for my E34 525i, as I've learned a lot from this and other forums before I actually bought the car and while working on it, so I thought sharing my ownership experience will help others to know what to expect from this car and make it easier to get the right parts, know what's involved in the jobs, etc. Having previously owned an E30 325i for over 3 years, one thing I learned about old BMWs is that if you get one with more or less rust-free bodywork, then all the rest of the car, i.e. engine/brakes/suspension can be pretty easily sorted, assuming you haven't bought a completely thrashed example. The reason why I sold my E30 was simply rust - it was everywhere you could imagine - sills, jacking points, front/rear arches, rear panel, front panel and even the roof (it was a sunroof model). To make it 100% right, it would have to be a complete restoration... As much as I love old BMWs, I didn't really want to go through the same things over again with an E34, so I spent literally 1 year looking for one...It had to be a manual, it had to be a 525i and most importantly it had to be in a reasonable condition bodywork-wise. Based on what I've seen and read, E34s rust very similar to other BMWs from the same era, so watch out for rusty jacking points and generally sills, especially on models that had side skirts fitted, then front and rear arches can be bad too (although the front wings can be replaced easily), then the boot lid is quite common to rust on E34s (around the number plate lights and around the edge that meets the rear panel), the bottoms of the doors, where you've got mouldings fitted, around the fuel flap area, and if you are looking at a sunroof model, then you have to be even more careful as the cassettes can be a bit rusty, although roof rust on E34s doesn't seem as common as on E30s. Clearly, the list of possible rust spots is quite extensive, so as I mentioned earlier, when you are looking for an E34, you are looking at bodywork first and all the rest of it second. Engine-wise, it had to be at least a 6 cylinder model for me, because anything less in my opinion, is a bit too slow...525i is a great choice for everything, including performance, economy and maintenance. I've seen a few 540i for sale, but I wanted a manual, so knowing how rare they are in the UK, the prices were unrealistic for me and to be honest, the ones I've seen weren't in the best conditions either. Long story short, just when I was about to give up my search for a decent E34, as I also kept an eye for a more modern E90 330i (no rust, less hassle overall), one unbelievably clean 525i came up for sale and I knew I had to go for it, because otherwise I was simply going to buy an E90, since I was seriously tired of searching. It's a 1993 saloon, pre-facelift model in diamantschwarz metallic with a M50B25TU engine and a manual gearbox. Yes, it does have a sunroof, but after removing the door seals to check the roof, it looks all clean there, although the sunroof cassette does have a few chips on it, they don't bother me at all. The rear jacking points are clean, the fronts are slightly rusty, the rear arches are bubbling a bit on the lower edges, the boot lid is ok, some rust on the bottom of the driver's door and underneath it's pretty clean as well. Grey cloth interior, no A/C (thank god), a sagging headliner and worn wiper linkage - overall, it's still a museum example compared to the E30 that I had... The car did come with a lot of original paperwork, previous MOTs and service history, but I'm a big fan of preventative maintenance and doing things myself, because I like when my cars are 100% mechanically perfect. After scouring the BMW forums all over the Internet, I started making up the list of required parts... Starting with the basic things first, I bought Shell Helix HX7 10W40 engine oil with Mann oil filter, Mann air filter and Valvoline engine flush. Also bought a Gold Plug magnetic sump plug - not sure if they are worth it, but otherwise I would advise getting a new genuine BMW plug and washer. Then moving onto other things as below: Bosch fuel filter - part number: 0 450 905 030 Bosch spark plugs (x6) - part number: 0 242 235 668 (25k miles replacement interval) Bosch Super Plus wiper blades - I initially bought more modern aero wipers, but when it came to fitting them, I didn't realise that E34s had a "reverse hook" wiper on the driver's side. There are various modifications you can do to fit whatever wipers you like, but I decided to stick to OEM and just bought E34-specific regular wipers from ECP with correct fitment. Dayco fan belt (6PK x 1558) - didn't go for a BMW belt, because it was about 40 quid from a dealer, while Dayco was just a tenner from ECP, and Dayco is a quality OEM parts manufacturer anyway, so no problems here. Now an important thing to know about M50 engines is that some of them came with a mechanical tensioner and some with hydraulic one. Done a lot of reading on this and the common recommendation is to replace the mechanical tensioner with a hydraulic one. Luckily INA and other parts manufacturers sell ready kits for doing this, so what I've done is bought a hydraulic tensioner kit and also the free-spinning roller for the alternator. INA hydraulic tensioner kit - part number: 533 0097 10 INA roller - part number: 532 0418 10 Keep in mind, if you have A/C fitted, then you'll also need to buy the A/C belt as well as the tensioner kit for the A/C. Moving onto the cooling side of things - my radiator was swollen on the top for some reason, so I definitely needed a replacement radiator. BMW advised the radiator and the bottle were sold separately and they quoted around £300 for everything, while I was looking at 100 quid tops for a complete rad/bottle online from various reputable makes. Make sure you check properly which radiator you have, because A/C and non A/C models have different size rads (520mm) and automatic cars have different rads as well. After measuring mine, I started looking for the most basic 440mm radiator for manual cars - BMW part number: 17 11 1 712 982 There's a quite large choice of various makes for radiators, but I wanted to stay on the OEM side as much possible, however since the BMW rad was way too pricy, I decided that BEHR/Hella would be a great alternative, since they are a well-known OEM parts manufacturer. I ordered my radiator from http://www.sparepartstore24.co.uk/ and it came from Germany, as it was not available anywhere in the UK. Here's the part number for my BEHR/Hella 440mm radiator: 8MK 376 717-461 It was a 100% perfect fit, the only issue we had with it, is that it didn't come with a hole for a coolant level sensor, however you can easily modify it, making a hole where the sensor goes, because otherwise it all fits excellent. I paid just under £100 for it, including delivery, so very happy with it. Then I also bought the fan clutch made by Borg Warner/BEHR/BERU. BEHR fan clutch - part number: 8MV 376 732-231 Sachs fan clutch - part number: 2100 012 131 All are OEM makes, so go for whatever you can find. ECP shows BERU on their website, but the box came labelled Borg Warner, so I'm fine with that. The water pump was about £130 genuine from BMW, which I thought was a bit too much, since I managed to get a HEPU one from ECP for less than £50 and again, HEPU are a decent German brand. HEPU water pump (comes with a gasket) - part number: P472 For the thermostat, first I went with Circoli, but after reading some horror stories about them online, I decided to go genuine BMW and paid £50 for a thermostat and a gasket from BMW. You can either buy a 88 degrees thermostat or 92 one from BMW and all they advise is to check what you already have fitted before you order, which seems a bit silly to me, because these cars are over 20 years old and you don't know whether the stat fitted in the past was the correct spec or not? To be honest, I doubt there will be any catastrophic difference if you go for either of them. Anyway, I decided to go for the 92 degrees thermostat, so the BMW part number you'll need is: 11 53 7 511 083. The gasket comes separate (part no: 11 53 1 265 084) and also make sure to get the thermostat housing gasket - part number: 11 53 1 740 437. I wasn't too fussed about getting specific anti-freeze, so I just went with basic blue 2-year Triple QX anti-freeze that ECP sells and got 5 litres ready mixed for about 8 quid. Also bought some Wynn's white grease to lubricate the door, bonnet and boot lid hinges + locks. To break up the big pile of text above, here's a picture for you to show what it all looked like: And here's the difference between a genuine BMW thermostat and a Circoli one. What I didn't know is that the one made by BMW is actually a Wahler thermostat and you could get the exact same thermostat from eBay for about £30, but obviously it won't have no BMW logo or part number on it, although it will be the same part. Goes to show how dealers make their money on parts. I also bought a few parts from BMW directly, because I thought the price was sensible and also some things are better when they are genuine BMW. It looked like that my valve cover gasket was leaking a bit of oil, so we decided it would be a good idea to replace it, so here's what I got. BMW valve cover gasket kit - part number: 11 12 0 034 107 (keep in mind this is for vehicles fitted with VANOS, so if yours is the older engine, then the part number will be different) BMW valve cover rubber washer seals - part number: 11 12 1 437 395 (you'll need 15 of these) I also bought a genuine engine oil cap (says BMW recommends Castrol on it) - part number: 11 12 7 509 328 And a BMW cap for the radiator as well - part number: 17 11 7 639 022 A common issue with E34 bonnets is that they don't "shoot out" properly, when you pull the bonnet release handle. The usual cause of this are tired bonnet shocks, so I bought a pair from BMW, which cured this problem. BMW bonnet struts (not sided and you'll need 2) - part number: 51 23 1 944 119 They do come with the mounting clips for both ends, so there's no need to buy them separately, although I didn't know that and bought them as well. The shocks are about £30 each, so I guess not too bad, considering you change them once in 20 years. And the finishing touch was the BMW boot lid badge that I bought along with the grommets, as mine was fading away and I wanted to replace it. As far as I know, it applies to the bonnet as well. BMW boot lid badge - part number: 51 14 8 132 375 There are two types of grommets you can order and I'm not sure what's difference, however I had black rubber type fitted on mine: Black badge grommets (2 required) - part number: 51 14 1 807 495 White badge grommets (2 required) - part number: 51 14 1 852 899 And here's a pic of the BMW bits: And that's it. You can see it's quite a lot of parts that I bought and to be honest you don't necessarily HAVE to go this crazy when servicing your E34, but as I mentioned in the beginning of this thread - I like when everything is 100% perfect with my cars, so I prefer to do it once and do it right. This post is getting a bit too long, so I'll finish the story here and I'll update the thread a bit later with a few pictures of how we actually replaced all of the above and then my plans for the next service work on my E34. I want to make this car drive, handle and feel exactly the same as it left the factory, so let's see if I can manage to do it. Thanks for following and any tips/advice much appreciated.
  2. As Carl said above, better be safe than sorry, so get it done while you're at it. I got my Pierburg pump from EuroCarParts, which was around 230, including the online discount.
  3. Had my first ever breakdown in any car that I've owned in the last 10 years and was a bit, erhmm, surprised, to say the least.....Well, it was kind of my fault, so can't really blame anyone else. I mean, how long do you expect a fuel pump to work on a 25 year old car and god knows, if it has ever been changed? My only excuse is that this just happened out of nowhere, really....If I would've had any kind of obvious symptoms recently, then I would've known what to expect, but it just randomly died. Have to admit, the car sputtered and cut out on me in traffic few months ago, but then it started right back up and has been fine ever since, so I didn't really think much about that incident....Anyway, lesson learned. Here's my taxi below: Long story short, I'm a bit of an idiot for completely forgetting about the fact that after all the work that I've done on the car, I've missed the fuel pump and should've replaced it loooooong time ago to avoid this silly situation. Luckily, it was a nice sunny afternoon and I was in my local area driving around 20 mph when the car all of a sudden lost power, stopped reacting to the accelerator pedal and gradually came to a halt on a residential road. Tried starting it again, but it would just crank without firing up. I managed to push it away from the road and park it in a bay until a colleague of mine recovered me to a friend's house the next day. A bit of an inconvenience, but I appreciate that it could've been a lot worse, such as cutting out at 70 mph in the outside lane of a motorway at 3am in the morning, on the way to the airport! Touch wood, I always look after my cars well and such things don't normally happen with me, so this incident definitely took me by surprise. IMPORTANT: It's recommended to have 1/4 full tank of fuel or even less, if possible, when replacing the fuel pump, as it will make a lot easier removing the pump since you'll have a clear view of how it's fitted in the tank. The fuel pump on the E34 is located under the carpet, in the boot and there's a black cover held by 5 screws that you have to remove to access the pump. Once you've removed this cover, you'll see the top of the fuel pump assembly, which has a plug connected to it and 2 fuel hoses, as below: To remove the plug, you need to slide the metal bracket away from the connector while simultaneously pulling the plug outwards. As for the fuel hoses, unless you have the special tool for removing/locking those fuel hose clamps, it's advisable to have some replacement BMW jubilee clips/hose clamps (part number: 07129952104) before you start undoing those. Also have some cloths/towels ready, as some fuel will spill out and you don't want to make a mess. Make sure to clean up all the dust and dirt around the assembly, because once you've removed the cap, then it could all go into the fuel tank, which obviously you want to avoid. You'll have to gently tap the black cap with a flat screwdriver and a hammer in an anti-clockwise direction, because there's no way of undoing it by hand. Once you have unscrewed it, you'll have to move the fuel sender part of the assembly out of the way (the white part) and reach into the fuel tank with your hand to unclip the pump assembly from its bracket located in the tank. It is a bit fiddly, but this is the reason why you should have a minimum amount of fuel in the tank, because otherwise you won't be able to see how the pump is held in place or how to remove it. There are basically 2 tabs on the assembly that you push inwards and then pull the pump up from the bracket. See the photos below of the whole assembly removed to get a better idea. Notice those tabs on each side of the fuel pump assembly, which is what you squeeze inwards from the top to release the pump from its bracket in the tank. Also see how all the clips used around on the assembly are special hose clamps. There's no need to replace these, as long as you have the right tool for unlocking/securing them. Remember how everything is connected, so depending on which replacement fuel pump you get, you'll know how to correctly re-connect it all back together. The thinner/smaller stud on the pump is Positive (+) and the larger one is Negative (-). You won't have to worry about replacing the fuel pump filter separately, as usually they come together with replacement fuel pumps, so that's one less thing to worry about. However, if you don't have it, then make sure to get a new one, as it wouldn't make sense to go through all this work and re-use an old filthy filter. Depending on what manufacturer you go for when buying your new fuel pump, you may have to do a bit of extra work and it won't always be a straight swap-over. For example, the pump that was fitted on my car was made by Bosch and in the past, you could simply buy just the pump itself, without any other accessories, and replace it hassle-free. You would have to separate it from the inner housing, but that's about it - see the pics below. Checking the above part number, you can no longer buy this exact Bosch fuel pump, because it has been superseded by a newer unit, which comes complete with a plug on top and a wiring kit, meaning you'll have to mess around with the existing wiring of the pump assembly to crimp in new pins, so then you can push them into the new connector and plug it into the pump......Not the best scenario, but if I was to go with a Bosch replacement, then it would have to be part number 0580314123, as per the photo below: As you can see, it is supplied as a complete assembly with the filter and the inner/outer housing, along with 2 pins and a connector. Like I said earlier, the downside to this is that you'll have to modify the wiring, which I didn't want to do, so I decided to go for an alternative make. For your info, you can get an equivalent pump to the original Bosch one that was fitted on my car, i.e. with the studs on the top, but then it would be an inferior quality make and probably wouldn't last long. Luckily, another OEM alternative to Bosch is a Pierburg pump (part number: 7.21913.50.0) , which actually comes with studs on top, meaning it's just plug and play without any need to modify anything. It was readily available from EuroCarParts, so I got it straightaway and here's how it looks like: When I opened the box, the part number on the actual pump was different from what was on the label, but after checking the part numbers in the Pierburg's parts catalogue, everything matched fine - for your info, 7.21833.51 is an old number (stamped on the pump) and has been replaced by 7.21913.50.0 (on the box). After finally doing all the research and purchasing the right fuel pump, it was just a matter of putting everything back together and starting the car. You will have to re-use the outer part of the pump bracket, which fits over the new inner bracket of the replacement pump. There's only one right way of fitting it, so you can't really get it wrong - just pay attention to how it's installed, when you are removing it from the old pump. Then you'll have to re-connect the wires to their studs (positive/negative) and secure them with washers/nuts. One hose goes on the pump that supplies the fuel into the engine and the other one connects to the outer bracket, which is the return fuel line. Again, pay attention not to confuse them and replace the hose clamps, as required. All done, ready to be fitted: The installation is the reverse of removal, so make sure that the black part of the pump assembly properly clicks into place in the fuel tank, then carefully put the fuel sender back in as well and install the black cap with a few light taps of a flat screwdriver + hammer. Secure the fuel hoses, re-connect the plug and you are done! Started the car, it ran perfectly fine and I haven't had any problems since. Still can't believe that this actually happened to me, considering all the things that I've taken care of, but like I mentioned earlier, totally forgot about the fuel pump. Funny enough, I did replace it as a precaution on my previous car, an E30, but for some reason it slipped past me on the E34. Well, what can you do? Have to say that I've noticed a significant difference of how the car pulls away and gathers speed, so it seems like the old pump did work, but it was definitely weak. It's now a lot more responsive and smoother and there's no hesitation in the lower revs. A happy ending overall. Apart from this, not much happened lately. Still haven't fitted the replacement second-hand rear window regulators that I bought back in August, so that most likely will be the next job, but otherwise if anything else comes up, you'll be first to know. Thanks for reading.
  4. Blackman

    E34 Front Strut / Suspension Shopping List

    Don't waste time with cheap parts and just get the FAG wheel bearing kit from EuroCarParts - with the online discount, it comes up to £81.89 and it's suitable for cars with or without ABS. The FAG manufacturer part number on the box should be: 713 6671 80 SKF is also a good brand, but FAG is readily available from ECP, so I see no reason why not to buy it, instead of shopping around for something else.
  5. Full info on ULEZ can be found here > https://tfl.gov.uk/modes/driving/ultra-low-emission-zone I'm not sure why this is not already being discussed here, because essentially if you live in London, then you can forget about driving your E34/5 series or whatever BMW you have from 80/90's and early 2000's, unless you are willing to pay £12.50/day for driving the car in the zone. Surely this absolutely ridiculous and I can't believe these plans are actually going ahead? If this applied just to central London (starting from April 2019), then I wouldn't be bothered, because I never drive there myself due to the silly levels of traffic, so if going to central London, then I normally just use tube, but extending the zone all the way to North/South Circular roads (from October 2021) means I will no longer be able to drive my E34 without having to pay or let alone any other BMW from the same era... All amazing, great cars, which are still perfectly usable today, are going to be subject to this charge, so I'll have no choice but to buy some newish automatic, turbo-crap, because I can't imagine myself paying £12.50/day just to drive around London. There must be a petition going on somewhere against this non-sense? I have to sell my pride and joy, which I had no intention of doing so, and basically there will be no point of buying any pre 2005 car, because very few of them will be Euro 4 (petrol) and Euro 6 (diesel) emission standards compliant? What a load of bollocks...
  6. Blackman

    Windscreen Replacement

    If you haven't done it before, it's one of those things that is better left to professionals. Windscreens are all the same shape-wise, but you can get them in different colours, like clear or greenish with a blue stripe on top, etc. The mouldings around the windscreens are £180 each, last time I checked, so be careful with them. You will probably need quite a few of the clips (part number: 51318177850) that go around the windscreen to hold these mouldings in place as well. It's important to remove the old adhesive properly and prepare the surface correctly before applying the new windscreen glue. The guy who did mine knew exactly what he was doing and did a top job in the end, although I doubt he'll be able to come to Ireland, if that's where you are based. It was Paul from Glasstec, highly recommended > https://www.glasstecauto.co.uk/
  7. My fuel pump died the other day and we removed the pump, checked it with direct power feed to make sure it was dead and it's not doing anything, so we are 100% sure that's the fault and I need a replacement. Looking at EuroCarParts, I can see there are 2 choices really...One is made by Bosch, which has a modified plug connector on top of the pump, so they provide a "parts kit" for you to crimp the new wire connectors, which then slot into the pump connector using the plastic plug supplied. Seems like a bit of a hassle? Below is the Bosch pump: And you also have one made by Pierburg, which is slightly more expensive, I'm assuming because it has same-as-factory studs on top of the pump, so you just secure your original wires with nuts onto it and job done? No need for any wiring modifications, hence the higher price? See the Pierburg pump pic below: I found a link where the guy used the Bosch pump with wire changes here > http://almostgonesblog.blogspot.com/2010/04/replacing-fuel-pump-on-93-bmw-525i.html And this guy uses the Pierburg pump, which is just a straight swap-over? > http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Maintenance/Engine/FuelPump.htm Are any differences between those pumps or between E34 fuel pumps in general? What I know is that I have a plastic fuel tank and the part number on the Bosch fuel pump that we removed is: 0580453021 Any help appreciated. Thanks.
  8. Blackman

    E34 Fuel Pump Replacement (M50B25TU)

    I can get the Pierburg unit for about 170 from Germany (SparePartStore24), but unfortunately I can't sit around waiting for more than a week for it to arrive, as the car is currently on my friend's driveway, taking up space... The same part is £230, including the discount from ECP and I should be able to pick it up on Tuesday, so hopefully fit it on Wednesday and be done with it. Not the ideal scenario, but obviously this was all totally unexpected, especially considering the fact that I've been overhauling the whole car for almost 2 years now, but completely forgot about this stupid pump which I should've replaced long time ago...
  9. Blackman

    E34 Fuel Pump Replacement (M50B25TU)

    Was struggling to find an online parts catalogue for Pierburg to check for compatibility, but managed to find their PDF parts catalogue and searched using their part number for the pump, which is: 7.21913.50.0 Turns out this pump is compatible with all E34 petrol engine models, including the M5. Apart from listing OE part numbers, the catalogue also shows numbers of other parts manufacturers, like Bosch, Delphi, etc, so you can compare this part against other brands. If anyone's interested, it's here > https://www.ms-motorservice.com/fileadmin/media/MAM/PDF_Assets/PIERBURG-Teile-PIERBURG-parts-Pièces-PIERBURG-Piezas-PIERBURG-Componenti-PIERBURG-части-PIERBURG_583131.pdf I know what I'm buying now Pierburg it is!
  10. Blackman

    E34 Fuel Pump Replacement (M50B25TU)

    Ok, that's good to know, because otherwise I can't seem to find any other differences between the pumps. Alright, I'll check the stocks on Monday and see what's the best option for me. Cheers
  11. Blackman

    E34 Fuel Pump Replacement (M50B25TU)

    Thanks Carl. When I'm checking the part number from the pump that was on the car using Bosch's online parts catalogue, it says the direct replacement is what ECP sells with the new modified plug. I've checked on numerous parts websites and seems like Bosch no longer sells just the pump, as now it comes complete with the filter and the inner/outer mountings, but unfortunately you have to mess around with the plug...Funny thing is, on the their own parts catalogue, Bosch says this is the replacement for the "Pierburg unit"....Go figure. Looking at my existing pump assembly, it looks exactly as what Bosch sells with the exception of the plug area, which I don't have, as instead there are the studs/nuts for the wires. I'm not too keen on re-crimping wires and was thinking of going for the Pierburg pump, but it looks like the outer bracket is missing, and I wasn't sure if my existing bigger outer bracket would fit over the inner mounting already on the Pierburg pump? I'm not 100% sure, but I don't think there's actual technical difference between the pumps, apart from the plug modification and maybe the brackets, which you could possibly swap/re-use with whatever's on the car?
  12. Blackman

    1989 E34 Headlight issue

    Find the one fitted on your car and there should be a part number on it. Then you can use that part number to order a replacement, if it's not too costly, or repair yours like Five-oh suggested.
  13. Blackman

    E34 Front Strut / Suspension Shopping List

    I went for the Bilstein B12 Pro kit last year, which includes B8 Performance Plus shocks and Eibach springs, which are slightly lower than original, similar to M-tech. You can read my post here > http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/125038-1993-bmw-e34-525i-se-manual-diamantschwarz-metallic-saloon/?do=findComment&comment=1390870 You have pretty much everything covered in your list. For any bolts/nuts, just go directly with genuine BMW items, as the prices are often reasonable and there's no headache of trying to source random bits. Check on RealOEM what you need, then order with your local dealer. Don't forget the bump stops for the shocks and dust covers, depending on what set you go for, you may need them. As for top mounts, just stick to OEM brands, like Sachs, and you'll be fine - I wouldn't bother with no powerflux stuff. Also you won't necessarily need M-tech top mounts, like the ones Carl mentioned...It depends on what shocks you go for, so you'll have to check the part description of the manufacturer to know what top mounts you'll need.
  14. Blackman

    Behr/ Hella water pump

    If you bought it from a good source, like you said, then you should be fine. Obviously, the packaging should be right as well with Hella branding, correct part numbers, etc.
  15. Blackman

    Behr/ Hella water pump

    I don't know why, but the opinions are very mixed for Febi stuff....Possibly due to so many fakes around? Some say it's great quality OEM parts, others say they just package Chinese crap in German boxes. This is the reason why I was a bit hesitant fitting a Febi propshaft centre bearing on my E34, but I guess the time will tell how good/bad it's going to be.
  16. Blackman

    Behr/ Hella water pump

    Good point on parts copies. I learned my lesson a few years ago when I bought "Febi" exhaust mounts for my E30 from Ebay....Thinking they are "OEM" and will last forever, only to find out that they broke less than 1 year later. Nowadays, when I'm buying parts, it's only main dealer, EuroCarParts or Autodoc/SparePartStore24. I'm sure there are good sellers on eBay selling genuine parts, but you've got plenty of choice with the other 3 suppliers, and they are competitive on prices as well, which makes eBay redundant.
  17. Blackman

    Behr/ Hella water pump

    If it's a genuine Hella or Behr unit, then whatever it is, just go for it. These are both OEM manufacturers, so if they make plastic impellers nowadays, then that's the best solution. The stories of plastic impellers breaking could be linked to cheap aftermarket water pumps, which would predictably fail early due to cheap design, materials used or other reasons.
  18. The clutch work has now been officially completed! It all went pretty smoothly, to be honest - nothing unexpected, which was a good thing, but I've purchased whatever parts had to come off, so I was well-prepared for everything. So the first thing to come off was the exhaust, and this time we had to remove it from the exhaust manifold end, rather than from the cat, as otherwise the front section would be in the way when taking the gearbox out. Make sure that you have the 2 gaskets for the catalytic converter and the 6 copper nuts, because the existing ones simply won't be re-usable. With the full exhaust out of the way, now you can remove the centre exhaust heatshield that covers the propshaft and see the condition of the propshaft centre bearing. To replace it, you will need to remove the propshaft, meaning 6 bolts at the gearbox end, where the propshaft flex disc (guibo) is, and 6 nuts at the diff end. With the propshaft out, we've inspected the centre bearing, and I was amazed to see that it was actually genuine BMW - whether it was the original from factory or was possibly replaced some time ago with a genuine BMW part, but it was in pretty decent condition regardless. To remove the centre bearing from the propshaft, you will need to undo the bolt in the middle of the propshaft to separate the two halves, and then the bearing slides out, complete with the mounting. The assembly is the reverse of the removal. Now the gearbox can come out. The top 2 bolts with the nuts that hold the starter motor in place can be a bit of a pain to get to, but with a few extensions, it's a doable job. The starter motor can stay where it is, you just need to slightly push it forward, towards the engine, so it clears the gearbox. And here it was finally on the floor: Had a look at the propshaft guibo and it looked perfect to me - I felt like I was changing all these bits for no reason..It was genuine BMW as well, made by Jurid. Anyway, it's good to replace all these things when doing major work, such as changing the clutch, so you won't have to go in there again in the future. With the gearbox out, now we can see the pressure plate/clutch assembly. The pressure plate is held by 6 allen bolts, but the replacements that I bought from BMW were torx - not a big deal, they fit perfectly fine. I would advise getting new bolts, as the existing ones are not always re-usable and you don't want to be stuck at this point of the job by not having a few bolts that don't cost a fortune. After having inspected the clutch, it was obvious that it was past its best with all kinds of cracks, uneven surface and small chunks missing everywhere. Both the pressure plate and the clutch were genuine BMW, made by LUK, so I'd say this was what the car left the factory with. One thing that I haven't bought was the dual-mass flywheel, but BMW doesn't necessarily recommend replacing these when doing the clutch, so it really depends on the condition and it's up to you, if you do it or not. It's not exactly cheap, but still reasonable - LUK is just over £300 from ECP (with the discount). Mine looked fine, so we decided to leave it. Enough chit-chat, back to work. The new clutch and the pressure plate is now in place - make sure to put the clutch disc the correct way round, it should say on it "Gearbox side", so you know which side goes where. Then we moved onto the gear linkage and the gearbox mountings. All pretty straightforward here - again, I'm sure everything that we've replaced was original BMW from factory, so looks like I was the first one to do such major work on the car. Surprisingly, the linkage bushes and the gear lever was all in good condition - I remember these bits were completely knackered on my E30, when I did the same work on that car. The complete gear linkage, fully assembled with all new bushes and mountings, ready to be fitted on the car: Almost forgot about the slave cylinder - nothing special here, really. I couldn't see any markings on the clutch hose that we removed, so not sure what make it was, but the slave cylinder was made by FTE, which is an OEM supplier, so good stuff. With all the new bits fitted, we began putting everything back into place and here you can see the gearbox already installed with all the mountings and the propshaft connected: We finished off by putting the exhaust back in and here are the gaskets and the nuts that I mentioned in the beginning of this post, saying that you should replace them. As you can see, I've also bought a few exhaust brackets as well. It's basically the bracket that supports the front section of the exhaust, as it's bolted to the rear of the gearbox. The difference in how the car pulls away now and how it used to, is definitely noticeable. The biting point is a lot lower, as the car starts moving when you only slightly release the clutch pedal. Also the clutch pedal itself has become very soft, probably due to the fact that I've got a new slave cylinder as well. It builds up speed with much less effort and obviously there's no more creaking clutch pedal when hot or occasional slipping. Overall, I'm very pleased. Not much left to do on this car to make it mechanically perfect. My "custom-made roller guides" for the rear window regulators didn't last too long, because just the other day I tried to put down the driver's rear window and it kind wobbled, almost collapsed, but luckily I managed to close it. As a result, I have actually purchased 2 second-hand regulators for the rear and going to fit them soon, hopefully then I'll have these rear windows fixed for good. Apart from that, I'd like to get the catalytic converter replaced by Klarius, since mine is making all kinds of funny noises, and most likely get a cat-back Jetex exhaust system as well, unless I can find any other decent make - this seems to be the best one, not sure if I would want to do anything custom-made... Then get a new lambda sensor while I'm there, replace all 6 ignition coils to cure the intermittent idling/hesitation problems, and worst-case scenario, I might need a new AFM as well.....Or I might try cleaning it and see if it helps, instead of having to buy a new one. All these things are not urgent and I'm not in too much of a hurry to get them done. So depending on funds/time available, I'll be sure to update this thread and let you know how it all goes. Thanks for following and all the best.
  19. Blackman

    16" tyre choices

    3 years later still can't choose the tyre size? As some people previously mentioned, an 8.5J rim should ideally have 235/245/255 rubber, so 225 is not the best, as it's the absolute minimum for a rim that wide. Whatever size you go for, the rears should be ok, but if you go too wide for the front (255 might be too much), then the tyres might not clear the struts. As for the profile, if you don't want the "balloon look" on the tyres, then don't go higher than 55, so I would probably say something like 245/45/16.
  20. Blackman

    E34 Propshaft Centre Bearing

    Going to replace the centre propshaft bearing, complete with the mounting, but the genuine BMW part is ridiculous money, something like £200, so I started looking for decent OEM stuff, but essentially I'm limited to just Meyle or Febi? Lemforder no longer makes these, Ruville same thing, so there's nothing quality left out there, because I don't want to bother with any dodgy stuff like Topran, Vaico or JP Parts.... I have no experience with Meyle parts, but I remember I bought Febi exhaust mounts for my E30 few years ago and they lasted less than a year....Was possibly a fake, as I hear there are lots of counterfeit items for these makes, but I wasn't too happy anyway.... So the question is, should I go with Meyle prop bearing or Febi? The price is roughly the same (around £20), so makes no difference.
  21. Blackman

    Insurance Quotes For M5

    I'm going to play the Devil's advocate and say that you should've gotten an insurance quote for the car you were going to buy before actually purchasing it? I don't know why but some cars, even if they are exactly the same model/engine/spec, can differ in insurance premiums, like what you are experiencing now. Not sure why this happens, but obviously they only way to avoid any future problems is to get quotes for your potential new car before buying it.
  22. Finally got around to checking what's wrong with the rear window regulators on my E34 and apart from the usual broken sliding clips (part number 51321938884), it turns out that one of the rollers, which is part of the window regulator mechanism is broken as well. See the item highlighted in the image below: This is what it looks like up close: I can easily get replacement slider clips (the one on the left), but I'm not sure where to find the round ones (on the right)? Don't want to replace the whole regulator just because of that... Done a bit of Googl'ing, but can't seem to find anything. Is there a common fix for these? I found lots of repair kits for newer BMWs, i.e. E46, E39, but that particular part is different on those regulators, since they have a cable system. Any help appreciated. Thanks
  23. Blackman

    E34 Window Regulator Mechanism Repair

    Don't want to create a new thread, as my question is still relevant to this topic. Are the electric window regulators on pre-facelift and later cars the same and interchangeable? There seems to be some difference in part numbers, so wanted to double check before purchasing a regulator that won't fit....
  24. Blackman

    Kit's E34 535i

    Spot on, exactly what I've got on mine. If you still have the stock suspension, then the ride will probably be fine, but if you go for anything lowered with stiffer shocks/springs, then it might become a bit too harsh, although still usable for every day, depending on your preference of comfort.
  25. Ok, so all the parts shopping for the clutch work has now been done and here's what I've got. Starting with the most important thing, being the clutch kit, you basically have a choice of going for the Sachs kit or LUK. Both are excellent quality, OEM brands, so without the matter which one you go for, it will be good stuff. Amazingly, BMW still sell the clutch kit for the E34, at least for the M50B25TU, that's for sure - so if you want to go genuine and don't mind spending 300-400 pounds for the kit, then the BMW part number for the genuine clutch kit is: 21211223546 I decided to go for the Sachs kit myself and it cost me just over £100 from Spare Part Store 24. The correct Sachs clutch kit part number for the 525i is as follows: 3000 133 002. The kit includes the pressure plate, the clutch disc and the release bearing. Then for the clutch slave cylinder, there's really a big choice of quality brands, anything from Bosch and TRW to Sachs and Brembo. However, since I went with Sachs for the clutch kit, I decided to stick with it and go for the same make for the clutch slave cylinder. Sachs part number for the slave cylinder is: 6283 600 105 If the price from BMW was decent, then I would've gone for genuine, but they wanted something like 120 pounds, when I got Sachs for 40 quid. In case if you need BMW's part number for the slave cylinder, it is: 21526775924 The same goes for the propshaft rubber guibo, behind the gearbox - I checked the price with BMW and it was something in the region of £200 (part number: 26117511454), when I managed to get a Ruville (OEM brand) guibo for less than 40 pounds. Ruville's part number is: 775031. And the last thing that I bought from Spare Part Store 24 was the centre propshaft bearing, which came complete with the mounting. Unfortunately, no OEM makes were available for this part and I had to go for Febi (part number: 02823), so I'll have to wait and see how good it's going to be. BMW was not an option (genuine part number: 26121226723), since they wanted something ridiculous, like £180 for the part, while I got Febi for just under £20. You might think that you're buying an inferior part, but you'll be surprised to know how much BMW marks up the parts they sell just for the privilege of having their badge on them... So that was all that I ordered from Germany and the rest of the parts were bought from BMW directly. What I ordered from my local dealer is everything that you can either only get from BMW and nowhere else, or I decided to go with genuine parts, because the prices were very reasonable, such as for the gearbox mountings, which I'll talk about further down below. Starting with the clutch pressure hose and the pipe, the hose was £55 and the pipe was £22, which comes in exact shape that it has to be, so there's no bending required or any messing around with it. A perfect example of how some stuff is reasonably priced from dealers. Clutch pressure hose: 32101157375 Clutch slave cylinder pipe: 21521159619 And there are x2 metal clips, which are for each end of the pressure hose, so I would advise getting them, in case yours are rusty or might break. Part number: 34341163565 Then moving onto the clutch area, it's advisable to replace the clutch fork, the spring clip for it and the ball pin. Chances are, it's all probably in decent condition, but you really wouldn't want to take the gearbox out again for the sake replacing something silly like that, if it causes trouble in the future. I also got the x6 bolts for the pressure plate as well, which ideally should be renewed with every clutch change. Clutch fork: 21511223302 Release spring clip: 21517570284 Ball pin: 21511223328 x6 Pressure plate bolts: 07129903984 The ball pin is a weak-looking, rubbery plastic thing, which I read that often gets replaced by stainless steel, aluminium or bronze units for better reliability and extended life-span, but I'm sure if you are running the normal clutch with no modifications, then the stock item should do the job just fine. The gearbox mounts, which I mentioned earlier, were unbelievably cheap - the front ones, which are identical to each other were £15 each and the rears, which are left and right sided, were only £12 each. You wouldn't think you were buying BMW parts at those prices... x2 Front gearbox mountings: 24701138435 Left gearbox mounting: 24701138427 Right gearbox mounting: 24701138428 Bear in mind, the above parts are for the manual 5-speed ZF gearbox, S5D310Z. Now the gear linkage, which depending on how "enthusiastically" your E34 was driven over the past 20-25 years, it could be completely knackered with your gear lever all over the place, or it could be like mine, which still feels ok, but I would rather get it all renewed, while I'm there. The best thing to do is to replace whatever bushes, mountings and joints are there, so you'll know that everything is 100%. That being said, here's what you need: Bush: 25117507695 Mounting bearing: 25111220707 Gear lever: 25111221779 Bearing: 25111220600 x4 Washers: 25111220439 x2 Clips: 25117571899 Joint: 25117503525 Pin: 23411466134 Tension clip: 25111203682 One thing I'd like to mention, if you have a look at the gear linkage diagram here > https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=HD52-EUR-09-1992-E34-BMW-525i&diagId=25_0025 You'll see that I made a mistake of ordering the item 20 (washer), which actually comes already installed with the joint (item 14), so just a heads up for those who are going to renew their linkage not to bother with that part. The linkage parts overall come up to around £170, so it's not too bad, considering you do it once in 20 years. And finally, a few exhaust brackets that I bought since mine that support the catalytic converter are quite rusty, so will be replacing them, when we take the exhaust off. It's a good idea to renew the catalytic converter gaskets (18301716888 - x2) along with 6 copper nuts (18301737774 - x6) to avoid any exhaust gas leaks later down the line. The rest of the parts below are just various brackets, bolts, washers and nuts for the catalytic converter support on the front, so again, it's better just to renew everything, as the parts are not expensive and will last a long time. Holder: 18211723375 Exhaust support: 18321728316 Bolt x2: 07119913676 Rubber washer x4: 18207546579 Washer x5: 33311108205 Nut x2: 07119905515 Clamp: 18211176717 Bolt: 07119912535 Bolt x2: 07119904146 That should be everything for now. Just need to remember to buy some Pagid DOT4 fluid to change the clutch fluid, as we haven't done that yet, but apart from that, I think I've got it all covered. The work will probably be done sometime in August, so will make sure to take a few photos during the repair and update the thread with the progress. Note for myself: need to look into replacing the ignition coils, as the car misfires occasionally and hesitates at lower revs. Check for vacuum leaks, maybe fuel pump, MAF and lambda sensor. The cat still rattles sometimes, so need to get that Klarius unit along with the Jetex cat-back exhaust system. Thanks for following and any tips appreciated.
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