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Blackman

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Everything posted by Blackman

  1. Blackman

    STILL having crank position sensor issues...

    Thanks, in that case makes sense to replace it while I'm there...Better be safe than sorry.
  2. Blackman

    STILL having crank position sensor issues...

    Bumping an old thread, but don't want to create a new one for a quick question... I'm replacing the front crankshaft seal on my M50, so access to the crankshaft position sensor will be easier. At the moment, I'm not having any issues with starting the car or idling, but is it worth replacing the sensor as preventative maintenance? Are they common to fail or how long do they normally last? I'm pretty sure mine should be the original, mileage around 130k. Thanks
  3. ^^^^^ You've produced better work in Paint spending 2 minutes, while a team of BMW designers spend 3 years designing a front end and they come up with some rubbish. Your version looks miles away, although you can still notice that the grills are slightly too big for the car. You could probably say that about the older 7 series (F01) as well, but again, it sort of looks ok.....However, the latest 7 LCI is a total joke. Not sure why BMW started making stupidly narrow headlights either...
  4. I love BMWs more than anything else, especially the ones from late 90's and early 2000's, but lately what BMW decided to do with the front "kidney grills" of their new models is absolutely gross. Starting with the F30, the idea of joining them with the headlights looked a bit stupid, although over time I probably got used it and today it sort of looks ok, but still not right....Same goes for the G11, G30 and some other models.... However, the newest X5 (G05) and now the LCI 7 series just look ridiculous....How can anyone look at those front grills and say they look good? Surely you can't call them "kidney grills" no more? More like someone's buttocks stuck to the front of the car? It's just a bit sad to see what the current BMW designers are doing with the image of the make. But hey, what do I know? All what matters is whether it sells or not...I mean, just look at this:
  5. This ad is for a set of 4 genuine BMW 17" style 21 "Throwing Stars" alloy wheels with covers/caps and complete with tyres. They are all 8J (non-staggered set), ET20, original fitment for E34 M5 (5x120 and 72.5mm centre bore), part number: 36112226706 The wheels have been fully refurbished, inside-out in OEM factory colour with the wheels being gloss black with a silver lip and silver covers + centre caps. They are all straight wheels with no buckles, cracks or any welds. I would like to mention that the refurb is not 100% perfect in some places, such as a few paint imperfections on the covers and also marks on the inside of the wheels from where they were hanged during the refurb process. However, in my opinion these are only minor issues and do not affect the overall excellent appearance of the wheels. Also please note, the part numbers and BMW markings are no longer visible on the wheels, as these are now covered in paint, but you can read the full spec of the wheels as above. I have also bought brand-new genuine BMW x20 bolts (36112227124) for securing the covers to the wheels as well as genuine BMW badges (part number: 36136758569) for the centre caps. This has now all been installed and the wheels are complete with everything fitted. As you may already know, the "Throwing Stars" covers on these wheels are sided, so here you have a full correct set with 2 left covers (part number: 36112227007) and 2 right covers (part number: 36112227008) and you also get 4 plastic centre caps (part number: 36132227123) The tyres are all in the correct factory fitment size for these wheels, which is 235/45/17. All 4 tyres are matching Continental ContiSportContact5 in immaculate condition with no sidewall damage, no puncture repairs and evenly worn tread with approximately 6mm of tread remaining on all the tyres. These wheels are a direct fitment for all BMW E34 and E31 variants, but I have also seen them fitted to E36, E24 and E28 models, however please check for fitment yourself before buying. I'm based in south-west London and would prefer these to be collected with payment by cash or can be Paypal as well. I could also pack and ship these to you, fully insured, but you'll have to cover the postage of around £95. I'm after £1750 ONO + postage, if you are not collecting. Sensible offers only, please, and if you have any questions, ask below or PM - I'll do my best to help. Thanks for looking.
  6. Considering that they are in as new condition and the tyres have barely been run in, I'd say the price is fair, but I'm open to genuine offers.
  7. Make me an offer, these are still for sale and need to go. Thanks
  8. Not on Autotrader or eBay, but anyone fancy a trip to Bulgaria? Story's here > https://www.pistonheads.com/news/ph-germancars/eleven-unused-e34-5-series-bmws-found/39388
  9. Blackman

    Eleven unused E34 5 Series BMWs found

    Looks like I'm late to the party and someone's already on the case
  10. Blackman

    E39 530i - 55k miles

    Crap/cheap tyres? Didn't realise that everyone was on Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 2's doing 200 mph on the way to work here....Unless you drive it like you stole it, you will struggle to tell the difference between budgets and premiums in every day driving at legal limits. The fact that it has 4 new tyres is surely a plus? Of course, one could argue that it's "cutting costs" and the owner is being cheap, but I think budget tyres are a very trivial thing to look at when assessing the condition of the car. It's very common to see almost bold Pirellis or Continentals on expensive cars, so I wouldn't really count NEW budget tyres as a negative and would look at the rest of the car to get a better picture of the overall condition. Saying that, I'm a bit sad myself and not a fan of silly modifications on this particular car, like a reversing camera, tinted windows, black M badge on the boot, carbon black wheel centre caps and the private plate...Very minor, I know, but it's not right. No wonder it took me almost a year before I bought my current car...
  11. Still got these, taking up space in my room. Happy to let them go for £1550, if you are collecting. PM, if interested. Thanks
  12. Blackman

    Best place to buy parts?

    Fuel filter (Bosch/MANN) and drive belt (Dayco/Continental) from ECP and the rest from SparePartStore24 (same as AutoDoc), ideally shocks and top mounts by Sachs and the guibo by SWAG/Ruville. If you are replacing the drive belt, might be worth checking the tensioners/rollers and do them at the same time - less headache in the future. Simples.
  13. Full info on ULEZ can be found here > https://tfl.gov.uk/modes/driving/ultra-low-emission-zone I'm not sure why this is not already being discussed here, because essentially if you live in London, then you can forget about driving your E34/5 series or whatever BMW you have from 80/90's and early 2000's, unless you are willing to pay £12.50/day for driving the car in the zone. Surely this absolutely ridiculous and I can't believe these plans are actually going ahead? If this applied just to central London (starting from April 2019), then I wouldn't be bothered, because I never drive there myself due to the silly levels of traffic, so if going to central London, then I normally just use tube, but extending the zone all the way to North/South Circular roads (from October 2021) means I will no longer be able to drive my E34 without having to pay or let alone any other BMW from the same era... All amazing, great cars, which are still perfectly usable today, are going to be subject to this charge, so I'll have no choice but to buy some newish automatic, turbo-crap, because I can't imagine myself paying £12.50/day just to drive around London. There must be a petition going on somewhere against this non-sense? I have to sell my pride and joy, which I had no intention of doing so, and basically there will be no point of buying any pre 2005 car, because very few of them will be Euro 4 (petrol) and Euro 6 (diesel) emission standards compliant? What a load of bollocks...
  14. Blackman

    Should i buy a an E34? Whats it worth?

    520i might feel a bit sluggish, plus red in colour and a Touring? I would pass and look out for a better combo, i.e. at least a 525i, ideally a manual, but nowadays you have to buy these based on body condition, rather than spec...
  15. Blackman

    E34 Front Strut / Suspension Shopping List

    If you have either BMW top mounts (part number: 31331139437) or Sachs top mounts (part number: 802 528), which are equivalent to each other, but are still having issues, then you can be certain for 100% that your problem are NOT the top mounts, so most likely they are not matching the shocks. Going by the information shown on Bilstein's website, you may have possibly bought the incorrect kit, because your E34 is a 10/1988 build and according to their catalogue, the correct Bilstein B12 Sportline kit for your car would be part number: 46-190932, which does also specify "Model year to: 07.90", so applicable to your car, since yours was built prior to that date. However, you previously mentioned that the kit you bought is the other one (46-190949), so most likely that is where your problem lies. Although, what I do find confusing is that Bilstein recommends using their own top mounts (part number: 12-248605) with either of their kits, and these mounts are equivalent to regular, non M-tech mounts, so go figure.... Have you tried using non M-tech mounts with the shocks you have bought? If even the regular mounts won't fit the shocks, then I would just return the whole kit and buy the correct one for your car.
  16. Blackman

    E34 Front Strut / Suspension Shopping List

    Bilstein make it quite confusing in their catalogue as well, because they say you have to use regular top mounts with their kits, saying "only with" and then listing the part number for their own set of regular front top mounts. That's how I made a mistake of buying their top mounts, thinking everything would be alright, only to find out I needed M-tech mounts. See below:
  17. Blackman

    E34 Front Strut / Suspension Shopping List

    I've got M-Sport front top mounts on mine, part number: 31331139437, but that's because I'm running B8 Performance Plus shocks, which do require M-Sport mounts, as regular ones won't fit. And yes, I would say B8 shocks would be classed as "M-tech" suspension, hence the reason why you would need M-tech top mounts, instead of the regular ones. Like I said earlier, use the Bilstein catalogue above and find exactly what you've ordered, then see if there's anything specific mentioned about those parts. Did you buy a suspension kit, including the springs, or was it just shocks? Or use the part numbers from the boxes you have to look them up in the catalogue...
  18. Blackman

    E34 Front Strut / Suspension Shopping List

    Make sure you are assembling the bits in the correct order. Use Bilstein's installation instructions and RealOEM as a reference to see what goes first, second, etc. Like you said, Bilstein's front shocks already come with integrated bump stops, so there's no need to use BMW ones there. If I were you, I would purchase everything starting from part number 3 on this diagram and upwards directly from BMW > http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=HD52-EUR-09-1992-E34-BMW-525i&diagId=31_0125 It's a diagram for mine (M50 525i), but pretty sure all the part numbers are exactly the same, and the fitment as well. This is what it should look like when fully assembled: Also you can use Bilstein's parts catalogue to look up exactly which B8 shocks you've got (there are 3 different ones) and see if there's anything in particular you need to know... Here's the catalogue > http://web1.carparts-cat.com/default.aspx?10=4E093FF3C31C4E4CBCA68EA6C3FABA2A018004&14=4&12=100 Hope this helps. P. S. This thread is still in the "Projects" section, can someone please move into "E34"? Thanks.
  19. Need to sell these, if you are interested, PM me your offer - I don't bite
  20. Blackman

    my first e34

    Going by that Pistonheads thread, this E34 is essentially brand-new Well done on the purchase, it looks great!
  21. Hey everyone, Decided to start a project thread for my E34 525i, as I've learned a lot from this and other forums before I actually bought the car and while working on it, so I thought sharing my ownership experience will help others to know what to expect from this car and make it easier to get the right parts, know what's involved in the jobs, etc. Having previously owned an E30 325i for over 3 years, one thing I learned about old BMWs is that if you get one with more or less rust-free bodywork, then all the rest of the car, i.e. engine/brakes/suspension can be pretty easily sorted, assuming you haven't bought a completely thrashed example. The reason why I sold my E30 was simply rust - it was everywhere you could imagine - sills, jacking points, front/rear arches, rear panel, front panel and even the roof (it was a sunroof model). To make it 100% right, it would have to be a complete restoration... As much as I love old BMWs, I didn't really want to go through the same things over again with an E34, so I spent literally 1 year looking for one...It had to be a manual, it had to be a 525i and most importantly it had to be in a reasonable condition bodywork-wise. Based on what I've seen and read, E34s rust very similar to other BMWs from the same era, so watch out for rusty jacking points and generally sills, especially on models that had side skirts fitted, then front and rear arches can be bad too (although the front wings can be replaced easily), then the boot lid is quite common to rust on E34s (around the number plate lights and around the edge that meets the rear panel), the bottoms of the doors, where you've got mouldings fitted, around the fuel flap area, and if you are looking at a sunroof model, then you have to be even more careful as the cassettes can be a bit rusty, although roof rust on E34s doesn't seem as common as on E30s. Clearly, the list of possible rust spots is quite extensive, so as I mentioned earlier, when you are looking for an E34, you are looking at bodywork first and all the rest of it second. Engine-wise, it had to be at least a 6 cylinder model for me, because anything less in my opinion, is a bit too slow...525i is a great choice for everything, including performance, economy and maintenance. I've seen a few 540i for sale, but I wanted a manual, so knowing how rare they are in the UK, the prices were unrealistic for me and to be honest, the ones I've seen weren't in the best conditions either. Long story short, just when I was about to give up my search for a decent E34, as I also kept an eye for a more modern E90 330i (no rust, less hassle overall), one unbelievably clean 525i came up for sale and I knew I had to go for it, because otherwise I was simply going to buy an E90, since I was seriously tired of searching. It's a 1993 saloon, pre-facelift model in diamantschwarz metallic with a M50B25TU engine and a manual gearbox. Yes, it does have a sunroof, but after removing the door seals to check the roof, it looks all clean there, although the sunroof cassette does have a few chips on it, they don't bother me at all. The rear jacking points are clean, the fronts are slightly rusty, the rear arches are bubbling a bit on the lower edges, the boot lid is ok, some rust on the bottom of the driver's door and underneath it's pretty clean as well. Grey cloth interior, no A/C (thank god), a sagging headliner and worn wiper linkage - overall, it's still a museum example compared to the E30 that I had... The car did come with a lot of original paperwork, previous MOTs and service history, but I'm a big fan of preventative maintenance and doing things myself, because I like when my cars are 100% mechanically perfect. After scouring the BMW forums all over the Internet, I started making up the list of required parts... Starting with the basic things first, I bought Shell Helix HX7 10W40 engine oil with Mann oil filter, Mann air filter and Valvoline engine flush. Also bought a Gold Plug magnetic sump plug - not sure if they are worth it, but otherwise I would advise getting a new genuine BMW plug and washer. Then moving onto other things as below: Bosch fuel filter - part number: 0 450 905 030 Bosch spark plugs (x6) - part number: 0 242 235 668 (25k miles replacement interval) Bosch Super Plus wiper blades - I initially bought more modern aero wipers, but when it came to fitting them, I didn't realise that E34s had a "reverse hook" wiper on the driver's side. There are various modifications you can do to fit whatever wipers you like, but I decided to stick to OEM and just bought E34-specific regular wipers from ECP with correct fitment. Dayco fan belt (6PK x 1558) - didn't go for a BMW belt, because it was about 40 quid from a dealer, while Dayco was just a tenner from ECP, and Dayco is a quality OEM parts manufacturer anyway, so no problems here. Now an important thing to know about M50 engines is that some of them came with a mechanical tensioner and some with hydraulic one. Done a lot of reading on this and the common recommendation is to replace the mechanical tensioner with a hydraulic one. Luckily INA and other parts manufacturers sell ready kits for doing this, so what I've done is bought a hydraulic tensioner kit and also the free-spinning roller for the alternator. INA hydraulic tensioner kit - part number: 533 0097 10 INA roller - part number: 532 0418 10 Keep in mind, if you have A/C fitted, then you'll also need to buy the A/C belt as well as the tensioner kit for the A/C. Moving onto the cooling side of things - my radiator was swollen on the top for some reason, so I definitely needed a replacement radiator. BMW advised the radiator and the bottle were sold separately and they quoted around £300 for everything, while I was looking at 100 quid tops for a complete rad/bottle online from various reputable makes. Make sure you check properly which radiator you have, because A/C and non A/C models have different size rads (520mm) and automatic cars have different rads as well. After measuring mine, I started looking for the most basic 440mm radiator for manual cars - BMW part number: 17 11 1 712 982 There's a quite large choice of various makes for radiators, but I wanted to stay on the OEM side as much possible, however since the BMW rad was way too pricy, I decided that BEHR/Hella would be a great alternative, since they are a well-known OEM parts manufacturer. I ordered my radiator from http://www.sparepartstore24.co.uk/ and it came from Germany, as it was not available anywhere in the UK. Here's the part number for my BEHR/Hella 440mm radiator: 8MK 376 717-461 It was a 100% perfect fit, the only issue we had with it, is that it didn't come with a hole for a coolant level sensor, however you can easily modify it, making a hole where the sensor goes, because otherwise it all fits excellent. I paid just under £100 for it, including delivery, so very happy with it. Then I also bought the fan clutch made by Borg Warner/BEHR/BERU. BEHR fan clutch - part number: 8MV 376 732-231 Sachs fan clutch - part number: 2100 012 131 All are OEM makes, so go for whatever you can find. ECP shows BERU on their website, but the box came labelled Borg Warner, so I'm fine with that. The water pump was about £130 genuine from BMW, which I thought was a bit too much, since I managed to get a HEPU one from ECP for less than £50 and again, HEPU are a decent German brand. HEPU water pump (comes with a gasket) - part number: P472 For the thermostat, first I went with Circoli, but after reading some horror stories about them online, I decided to go genuine BMW and paid £50 for a thermostat and a gasket from BMW. You can either buy a 88 degrees thermostat or 92 one from BMW and all they advise is to check what you already have fitted before you order, which seems a bit silly to me, because these cars are over 20 years old and you don't know whether the stat fitted in the past was the correct spec or not? To be honest, I doubt there will be any catastrophic difference if you go for either of them. Anyway, I decided to go for the 92 degrees thermostat, so the BMW part number you'll need is: 11 53 7 511 083. The gasket comes separate (part no: 11 53 1 265 084) and also make sure to get the thermostat housing gasket - part number: 11 53 1 740 437. I wasn't too fussed about getting specific anti-freeze, so I just went with basic blue 2-year Triple QX anti-freeze that ECP sells and got 5 litres ready mixed for about 8 quid. Also bought some Wynn's white grease to lubricate the door, bonnet and boot lid hinges + locks. To break up the big pile of text above, here's a picture for you to show what it all looked like: And here's the difference between a genuine BMW thermostat and a Circoli one. What I didn't know is that the one made by BMW is actually a Wahler thermostat and you could get the exact same thermostat from eBay for about £30, but obviously it won't have no BMW logo or part number on it, although it will be the same part. Goes to show how dealers make their money on parts. I also bought a few parts from BMW directly, because I thought the price was sensible and also some things are better when they are genuine BMW. It looked like that my valve cover gasket was leaking a bit of oil, so we decided it would be a good idea to replace it, so here's what I got. BMW valve cover gasket kit - part number: 11 12 0 034 107 (keep in mind this is for vehicles fitted with VANOS, so if yours is the older engine, then the part number will be different) BMW valve cover rubber washer seals - part number: 11 12 1 437 395 (you'll need 15 of these) I also bought a genuine engine oil cap (says BMW recommends Castrol on it) - part number: 11 12 7 509 328 And a BMW cap for the radiator as well - part number: 17 11 7 639 022 A common issue with E34 bonnets is that they don't "shoot out" properly, when you pull the bonnet release handle. The usual cause of this are tired bonnet shocks, so I bought a pair from BMW, which cured this problem. BMW bonnet struts (not sided and you'll need 2) - part number: 51 23 1 944 119 They do come with the mounting clips for both ends, so there's no need to buy them separately, although I didn't know that and bought them as well. The shocks are about £30 each, so I guess not too bad, considering you change them once in 20 years. And the finishing touch was the BMW boot lid badge that I bought along with the grommets, as mine was fading away and I wanted to replace it. As far as I know, it applies to the bonnet as well. BMW boot lid badge - part number: 51 14 8 132 375 There are two types of grommets you can order and I'm not sure what's difference, however I had black rubber type fitted on mine: Black badge grommets (2 required) - part number: 51 14 1 807 495 White badge grommets (2 required) - part number: 51 14 1 852 899 And here's a pic of the BMW bits: And that's it. You can see it's quite a lot of parts that I bought and to be honest you don't necessarily HAVE to go this crazy when servicing your E34, but as I mentioned in the beginning of this thread - I like when everything is 100% perfect with my cars, so I prefer to do it once and do it right. This post is getting a bit too long, so I'll finish the story here and I'll update the thread a bit later with a few pictures of how we actually replaced all of the above and then my plans for the next service work on my E34. I want to make this car drive, handle and feel exactly the same as it left the factory, so let's see if I can manage to do it. Thanks for following and any tips/advice much appreciated.
  22. As I've previously mentioned, unfortunately our modification using green Saab window regulator guides didn't last too long on the rear windows, so I had to source 2 used rear window regulators, complete with motors, to replace mine and just be done with it. Generally speaking, all E34 electric window regulators are the same, both pre and post facelift. However, the later ones don't have the tension spring, which I assume helps to ease the process of the regulator going up/down and also the limit switch/stopper is actually part of the door wiring loom on later cars, rather than a separate short loom with a connector, like it is on older regulators. So if you are fitting pre-facelift regulators to a later car, like I did, then you'll have to remove the wiring loom for the limit switch from the regulator and use the existing loom from your car. If you look at the photos further down below, you'll see what I mean. Here are the 2 regulators that I bought, which are from a pre-facelift car, notice the presence of the tension springs and the wiring looms for the limit switch: The rear window regulators are held on with 3 rivets, which you'll have to drill out, so obviously make sure you have the replacement rivets before you start doing anything. You can also use bolts/nuts, instead of rivets, but then in that case make sure to use nyloc nuts, not just regular ones, as normal nuts may come loose due to the pressure from the regulator. See my original regulator below and the location of the 3 rivets: Before fitting the replacement regulator, it's advisable to renew the white sliding clips (you'll need 2 per regulator, part number: 51321938884) and also apply grease on the regulator tracks/gears. Here's my "new" regulator all fitted up and connected: It's a bit silly that I had to replace complete regulators just because of one broken clip, but I paid only 50 quid for both regulators, so I can't really complain much, can I? See the replaced regulators below along with removed limit switches, as I explained earlier, and our "modified" Saab green clip that unfortunately didn't work... A trivial thing, but had to be done, not that I ever cared whether my rear windows worked or not....Currently don't have any crazy plans for the future. Most likely won't get anything more done this year, because frankly there's nothing mega-urgent that needs doing anyway.... Possibly change oil + filter soon, as it's been a while, renew coolant, check for oil leaks, as it's getting a bit messy underneath sometimes, and probably renew ignition coils, lambda sensor and clean up the AFM. Will keep you updated. Enjoy your holidays.
  23. Blackman

    ACS Type2 set of 5 GENUINE -swaps-

    Not sure if you have considered 17" style 21's, as I've got a non-staggered, refurbed E34 set for sale, and I'm also in SW London, but I would need a sale, not a swap? Thought would ask. Thanks.
  24. Blackman

    Tyre pressure.

    For every day driving you will hardly notice the difference between 31 and 36 psi, unless you do 150 mph on the way to work.
  25. Blackman

    '94 540i Touring 6spd - The Money Pit!

    Seeing you are in London, you better put it back on the road sooner rather than later, with ULEZ coming to all London in 2021, we don't have much time left to drive these cars, unfortunately...
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