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Blackman

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Everything posted by Blackman

  1. Hey everyone, Decided to start a project thread for my E34 525i, as I've learned a lot from this and other forums before I actually bought the car and while working on it, so I thought sharing my ownership experience will help others to know what to expect from this car and make it easier to get the right parts, know what's involved in the jobs, etc. Having previously owned an E30 325i for over 3 years, one thing I learned about old BMWs is that if you get one with more or less rust-free bodywork, then all the rest of the car, i.e. engine/brakes/suspension can be pretty easily sorted, assuming you haven't bought a completely thrashed example. The reason why I sold my E30 was simply rust - it was everywhere you could imagine - sills, jacking points, front/rear arches, rear panel, front panel and even the roof (it was a sunroof model). To make it 100% right, it would have to be a complete restoration... As much as I love old BMWs, I didn't really want to go through the same things over again with an E34, so I spent literally 1 year looking for one...It had to be a manual, it had to be a 525i and most importantly it had to be in a reasonable condition bodywork-wise. Based on what I've seen and read, E34s rust very similar to other BMWs from the same era, so watch out for rusty jacking points and generally sills, especially on models that had side skirts fitted, then front and rear arches can be bad too (although the front wings can be replaced easily), then the boot lid is quite common to rust on E34s (around the number plate lights and around the edge that meets the rear panel), the bottoms of the doors, where you've got mouldings fitted, around the fuel flap area, and if you are looking at a sunroof model, then you have to be even more careful as the cassettes can be a bit rusty, although roof rust on E34s doesn't seem as common as on E30s. Clearly, the list of possible rust spots is quite extensive, so as I mentioned earlier, when you are looking for an E34, you are looking at bodywork first and all the rest of it second. Engine-wise, it had to be at least a 6 cylinder model for me, because anything less in my opinion, is a bit too slow...525i is a great choice for everything, including performance, economy and maintenance. I've seen a few 540i for sale, but I wanted a manual, so knowing how rare they are in the UK, the prices were unrealistic for me and to be honest, the ones I've seen weren't in the best conditions either. Long story short, just when I was about to give up my search for a decent E34, as I also kept an eye for a more modern E90 330i (no rust, less hassle overall), one unbelievably clean 525i came up for sale and I knew I had to go for it, because otherwise I was simply going to buy an E90, since I was seriously tired of searching. It's a 1993 saloon, pre-facelift model in diamantschwarz metallic with a M50B25TU engine and a manual gearbox. Yes, it does have a sunroof, but after removing the door seals to check the roof, it looks all clean there, although the sunroof cassette does have a few chips on it, they don't bother me at all. The rear jacking points are clean, the fronts are slightly rusty, the rear arches are bubbling a bit on the lower edges, the boot lid is ok, some rust on the bottom of the driver's door and underneath it's pretty clean as well. Grey cloth interior, no A/C (thank god), a sagging headliner and worn wiper linkage - overall, it's still a museum example compared to the E30 that I had... The car did come with a lot of original paperwork, previous MOTs and service history, but I'm a big fan of preventative maintenance and doing things myself, because I like when my cars are 100% mechanically perfect. After scouring the BMW forums all over the Internet, I started making up the list of required parts... Starting with the basic things first, I bought Shell Helix HX7 10W40 engine oil with Mann oil filter, Mann air filter and Valvoline engine flush. Also bought a Gold Plug magnetic sump plug - not sure if they are worth it, but otherwise I would advise getting a new genuine BMW plug and washer. Then moving onto other things as below: Bosch fuel filter - part number: 0 450 905 030 Bosch spark plugs (x6) - part number: 0 242 235 668 (25k miles replacement interval) Bosch Super Plus wiper blades - I initially bought more modern aero wipers, but when it came to fitting them, I didn't realise that E34s had a "reverse hook" wiper on the driver's side. There are various modifications you can do to fit whatever wipers you like, but I decided to stick to OEM and just bought E34-specific regular wipers from ECP with correct fitment. Dayco fan belt (6PK x 1558) - didn't go for a BMW belt, because it was about 40 quid from a dealer, while Dayco was just a tenner from ECP, and Dayco is a quality OEM parts manufacturer anyway, so no problems here. Now an important thing to know about M50 engines is that some of them came with a mechanical tensioner and some with hydraulic one. Done a lot of reading on this and the common recommendation is to replace the mechanical tensioner with a hydraulic one. Luckily INA and other parts manufacturers sell ready kits for doing this, so what I've done is bought a hydraulic tensioner kit and also the free-spinning roller for the alternator. INA hydraulic tensioner kit - part number: 533 0097 10 INA roller - part number: 532 0418 10 Keep in mind, if you have A/C fitted, then you'll also need to buy the A/C belt as well as the tensioner kit for the A/C. Moving onto the cooling side of things - my radiator was swollen on the top for some reason, so I definitely needed a replacement radiator. BMW advised the radiator and the bottle were sold separately and they quoted around £300 for everything, while I was looking at 100 quid tops for a complete rad/bottle online from various reputable makes. Make sure you check properly which radiator you have, because A/C and non A/C models have different size rads (520mm) and automatic cars have different rads as well. After measuring mine, I started looking for the most basic 440mm radiator for manual cars - BMW part number: 17 11 1 712 982 There's a quite large choice of various makes for radiators, but I wanted to stay on the OEM side as much possible, however since the BMW rad was way too pricy, I decided that BEHR/Hella would be a great alternative, since they are a well-known OEM parts manufacturer. I ordered my radiator from http://www.sparepartstore24.co.uk/ and it came from Germany, as it was not available anywhere in the UK. Here's the part number for my BEHR/Hella 440mm radiator: 8MK 376 717-461 It was a 100% perfect fit, the only issue we had with it, is that it didn't come with a hole for a coolant level sensor, however you can easily modify it, making a hole where the sensor goes, because otherwise it all fits excellent. I paid just under £100 for it, including delivery, so very happy with it. Then I also bought the fan clutch made by Borg Warner/BEHR/BERU. BEHR fan clutch - part number: 8MV 376 732-231 Sachs fan clutch - part number: 2100 012 131 All are OEM makes, so go for whatever you can find. ECP shows BERU on their website, but the box came labelled Borg Warner, so I'm fine with that. The water pump was about £130 genuine from BMW, which I thought was a bit too much, since I managed to get a HEPU one from ECP for less than £50 and again, HEPU are a decent German brand. HEPU water pump (comes with a gasket) - part number: P472 For the thermostat, first I went with Circoli, but after reading some horror stories about them online, I decided to go genuine BMW and paid £50 for a thermostat and a gasket from BMW. You can either buy a 88 degrees thermostat or 92 one from BMW and all they advise is to check what you already have fitted before you order, which seems a bit silly to me, because these cars are over 20 years old and you don't know whether the stat fitted in the past was the correct spec or not? To be honest, I doubt there will be any catastrophic difference if you go for either of them. Anyway, I decided to go for the 92 degrees thermostat, so the BMW part number you'll need is: 11 53 7 511 083. The gasket comes separate (part no: 11 53 1 265 084) and also make sure to get the thermostat housing gasket - part number: 11 53 1 740 437. I wasn't too fussed about getting specific anti-freeze, so I just went with basic blue 2-year Triple QX anti-freeze that ECP sells and got 5 litres ready mixed for about 8 quid. Also bought some Wynn's white grease to lubricate the door, bonnet and boot lid hinges + locks. To break up the big pile of text above, here's a picture for you to show what it all looked like: And here's the difference between a genuine BMW thermostat and a Circoli one. What I didn't know is that the one made by BMW is actually a Wahler thermostat and you could get the exact same thermostat from eBay for about £30, but obviously it won't have no BMW logo or part number on it, although it will be the same part. Goes to show how dealers make their money on parts. I also bought a few parts from BMW directly, because I thought the price was sensible and also some things are better when they are genuine BMW. It looked like that my valve cover gasket was leaking a bit of oil, so we decided it would be a good idea to replace it, so here's what I got. BMW valve cover gasket kit - part number: 11 12 0 034 107 (keep in mind this is for vehicles fitted with VANOS, so if yours is the older engine, then the part number will be different) BMW valve cover rubber washer seals - part number: 11 12 1 437 395 (you'll need 15 of these) I also bought a genuine engine oil cap (says BMW recommends Castrol on it) - part number: 11 12 7 509 328 And a BMW cap for the radiator as well - part number: 17 11 7 639 022 A common issue with E34 bonnets is that they don't "shoot out" properly, when you pull the bonnet release handle. The usual cause of this are tired bonnet shocks, so I bought a pair from BMW, which cured this problem. BMW bonnet struts (not sided and you'll need 2) - part number: 51 23 1 944 119 They do come with the mounting clips for both ends, so there's no need to buy them separately, although I didn't know that and bought them as well. The shocks are about £30 each, so I guess not too bad, considering you change them once in 20 years. And the finishing touch was the BMW boot lid badge that I bought along with the grommets, as mine was fading away and I wanted to replace it. As far as I know, it applies to the bonnet as well. BMW boot lid badge - part number: 51 14 8 132 375 There are two types of grommets you can order and I'm not sure what's difference, however I had black rubber type fitted on mine: Black badge grommets (2 required) - part number: 51 14 1 807 495 White badge grommets (2 required) - part number: 51 14 1 852 899 And here's a pic of the BMW bits: And that's it. You can see it's quite a lot of parts that I bought and to be honest you don't necessarily HAVE to go this crazy when servicing your E34, but as I mentioned in the beginning of this thread - I like when everything is 100% perfect with my cars, so I prefer to do it once and do it right. This post is getting a bit too long, so I'll finish the story here and I'll update the thread a bit later with a few pictures of how we actually replaced all of the above and then my plans for the next service work on my E34. I want to make this car drive, handle and feel exactly the same as it left the factory, so let's see if I can manage to do it. Thanks for following and any tips/advice much appreciated.
  2. The clutch work has now been officially completed! It all went pretty smoothly, to be honest - nothing unexpected, which was a good thing, but I've purchased whatever parts had to come off, so I was well-prepared for everything. So the first thing to come off was the exhaust, and this time we had to remove it from the exhaust manifold end, rather than from the cat, as otherwise the front section would be in the way when taking the gearbox out. Make sure that you have the 2 gaskets for the catalytic converter and the 6 copper nuts, because the existing ones simply won't be re-usable. With the full exhaust out of the way, now you can remove the centre exhaust heatshield that covers the propshaft and see the condition of the propshaft centre bearing. To replace it, you will need to remove the propshaft, meaning 6 bolts at the gearbox end, where the propshaft flex disc (guibo) is, and 6 nuts at the diff end. With the propshaft out, we've inspected the centre bearing, and I was amazed to see that it was actually genuine BMW - whether it was the original from factory or was possibly replaced some time ago with a genuine BMW part, but it was in pretty decent condition regardless. To remove the centre bearing from the propshaft, you will need to undo the bolt in the middle of the propshaft to separate the two halves, and then the bearing slides out, complete with the mounting. The assembly is the reverse of the removal. Now the gearbox can come out. The top 2 bolts with the nuts that hold the starter motor in place can be a bit of a pain to get to, but with a few extensions, it's a doable job. The starter motor can stay where it is, you just need to slightly push it forward, towards the engine, so it clears the gearbox. And here it was finally on the floor: Had a look at the propshaft guibo and it looked perfect to me - I felt like I was changing all these bits for no reason..It was genuine BMW as well, made by Jurid. Anyway, it's good to replace all these things when doing major work, such as changing the clutch, so you won't have to go in there again in the future. With the gearbox out, now we can see the pressure plate/clutch assembly. The pressure plate is held by 6 allen bolts, but the replacements that I bought from BMW were torx - not a big deal, they fit perfectly fine. I would advise getting new bolts, as the existing ones are not always re-usable and you don't want to be stuck at this point of the job by not having a few bolts that don't cost a fortune. After having inspected the clutch, it was obvious that it was past its best with all kinds of cracks, uneven surface and small chunks missing everywhere. Both the pressure plate and the clutch were genuine BMW, made by LUK, so I'd say this was what the car left the factory with. One thing that I haven't bought was the dual-mass flywheel, but BMW doesn't necessarily recommend replacing these when doing the clutch, so it really depends on the condition and it's up to you, if you do it or not. It's not exactly cheap, but still reasonable - LUK is just over £300 from ECP (with the discount). Mine looked fine, so we decided to leave it. Enough chit-chat, back to work. The new clutch and the pressure plate is now in place - make sure to put the clutch disc the correct way round, it should say on it "Gearbox side", so you know which side goes where. Then we moved onto the gear linkage and the gearbox mountings. All pretty straightforward here - again, I'm sure everything that we've replaced was original BMW from factory, so looks like I was the first one to do such major work on the car. Surprisingly, the linkage bushes and the gear lever was all in good condition - I remember these bits were completely knackered on my E30, when I did the same work on that car. The complete gear linkage, fully assembled with all new bushes and mountings, ready to be fitted on the car: Almost forgot about the slave cylinder - nothing special here, really. I couldn't see any markings on the clutch hose that we removed, so not sure what make it was, but the slave cylinder was made by FTE, which is an OEM supplier, so good stuff. With all the new bits fitted, we began putting everything back into place and here you can see the gearbox already installed with all the mountings and the propshaft connected: We finished off by putting the exhaust back in and here are the gaskets and the nuts that I mentioned in the beginning of this post, saying that you should replace them. As you can see, I've also bought a few exhaust brackets as well. It's basically the bracket that supports the front section of the exhaust, as it's bolted to the rear of the gearbox. The difference in how the car pulls away now and how it used to, is definitely noticeable. The biting point is a lot lower, as the car starts moving when you only slightly release the clutch pedal. Also the clutch pedal itself has become very soft, probably due to the fact that I've got a new slave cylinder as well. It builds up speed with much less effort and obviously there's no more creaking clutch pedal when hot or occasional slipping. Overall, I'm very pleased. Not much left to do on this car to make it mechanically perfect. My "custom-made roller guides" for the rear window regulators didn't last too long, because just the other day I tried to put down the driver's rear window and it kind wobbled, almost collapsed, but luckily I managed to close it. As a result, I have actually purchased 2 second-hand regulators for the rear and going to fit them soon, hopefully then I'll have these rear windows fixed for good. Apart from that, I'd like to get the catalytic converter replaced by Klarius, since mine is making all kinds of funny noises, and most likely get a cat-back Jetex exhaust system as well, unless I can find any other decent make - this seems to be the best one, not sure if I would want to do anything custom-made... Then get a new lambda sensor while I'm there, replace all 6 ignition coils to cure the intermittent idling/hesitation problems, and worst-case scenario, I might need a new AFM as well.....Or I might try cleaning it and see if it helps, instead of having to buy a new one. All these things are not urgent and I'm not in too much of a hurry to get them done. So depending on funds/time available, I'll be sure to update this thread and let you know how it all goes. Thanks for following and all the best.
  3. Blackman

    16" tyre choices

    3 years later still can't choose the tyre size? As some people previously mentioned, an 8.5J rim should ideally have 235/245/255 rubber, so 225 is not the best, as it's the absolute minimum for a rim that wide. Whatever size you go for, the rears should be ok, but if you go too wide for the front (255 might be too much), then the tyres might not clear the struts. As for the profile, if you don't want the "balloon look" on the tyres, then don't go higher than 55, so I would probably say something like 245/45/16.
  4. Blackman

    E34 Propshaft Centre Bearing

    Going to replace the centre propshaft bearing, complete with the mounting, but the genuine BMW part is ridiculous money, something like £200, so I started looking for decent OEM stuff, but essentially I'm limited to just Meyle or Febi? Lemforder no longer makes these, Ruville same thing, so there's nothing quality left out there, because I don't want to bother with any dodgy stuff like Topran, Vaico or JP Parts.... I have no experience with Meyle parts, but I remember I bought Febi exhaust mounts for my E30 few years ago and they lasted less than a year....Was possibly a fake, as I hear there are lots of counterfeit items for these makes, but I wasn't too happy anyway.... So the question is, should I go with Meyle prop bearing or Febi? The price is roughly the same (around £20), so makes no difference.
  5. Blackman

    Insurance Quotes For M5

    I'm going to play the Devil's advocate and say that you should've gotten an insurance quote for the car you were going to buy before actually purchasing it? I don't know why but some cars, even if they are exactly the same model/engine/spec, can differ in insurance premiums, like what you are experiencing now. Not sure why this happens, but obviously they only way to avoid any future problems is to get quotes for your potential new car before buying it.
  6. Finally got around to checking what's wrong with the rear window regulators on my E34 and apart from the usual broken sliding clips (part number 51321938884), it turns out that one of the rollers, which is part of the window regulator mechanism is broken as well. See the item highlighted in the image below: This is what it looks like up close: I can easily get replacement slider clips (the one on the left), but I'm not sure where to find the round ones (on the right)? Don't want to replace the whole regulator just because of that... Done a bit of Googl'ing, but can't seem to find anything. Is there a common fix for these? I found lots of repair kits for newer BMWs, i.e. E46, E39, but that particular part is different on those regulators, since they have a cable system. Any help appreciated. Thanks
  7. Blackman

    E34 Window Regulator Mechanism Repair

    Don't want to create a new thread, as my question is still relevant to this topic. Are the electric window regulators on pre-facelift and later cars the same and interchangeable? There seems to be some difference in part numbers, so wanted to double check before purchasing a regulator that won't fit....
  8. Full info on ULEZ can be found here > https://tfl.gov.uk/modes/driving/ultra-low-emission-zone I'm not sure why this is not already being discussed here, because essentially if you live in London, then you can forget about driving your E34/5 series or whatever BMW you have from 80/90's and early 2000's, unless you are willing to pay £12.50/day for driving the car in the zone. Surely this absolutely ridiculous and I can't believe these plans are actually going ahead? If this applied just to central London (starting from April 2019), then I wouldn't be bothered, because I never drive there myself due to the silly levels of traffic, so if going to central London, then I normally just use tube, but extending the zone all the way to North/South Circular roads (from October 2021) means I will no longer be able to drive my E34 without having to pay or let alone any other BMW from the same era... All amazing, great cars, which are still perfectly usable today, are going to be subject to this charge, so I'll have no choice but to buy some newish automatic, turbo-crap, because I can't imagine myself paying £12.50/day just to drive around London. There must be a petition going on somewhere against this non-sense? I have to sell my pride and joy, which I had no intention of doing so, and basically there will be no point of buying any pre 2005 car, because very few of them will be Euro 4 (petrol) and Euro 6 (diesel) emission standards compliant? What a load of bollocks...
  9. Blackman

    Kit's E34 535i

    Spot on, exactly what I've got on mine. If you still have the stock suspension, then the ride will probably be fine, but if you go for anything lowered with stiffer shocks/springs, then it might become a bit too harsh, although still usable for every day, depending on your preference of comfort.
  10. Ok, so all the parts shopping for the clutch work has now been done and here's what I've got. Starting with the most important thing, being the clutch kit, you basically have a choice of going for the Sachs kit or LUK. Both are excellent quality, OEM brands, so without the matter which one you go for, it will be good stuff. Amazingly, BMW still sell the clutch kit for the E34, at least for the M50B25TU, that's for sure - so if you want to go genuine and don't mind spending 300-400 pounds for the kit, then the BMW part number for the genuine clutch kit is: 21211223546 I decided to go for the Sachs kit myself and it cost me just over £100 from Spare Part Store 24. The correct Sachs clutch kit part number for the 525i is as follows: 3000 133 002. The kit includes the pressure plate, the clutch disc and the release bearing. Then for the clutch slave cylinder, there's really a big choice of quality brands, anything from Bosch and TRW to Sachs and Brembo. However, since I went with Sachs for the clutch kit, I decided to stick with it and go for the same make for the clutch slave cylinder. Sachs part number for the slave cylinder is: 6283 600 105 If the price from BMW was decent, then I would've gone for genuine, but they wanted something like 120 pounds, when I got Sachs for 40 quid. In case if you need BMW's part number for the slave cylinder, it is: 21526775924 The same goes for the propshaft rubber guibo, behind the gearbox - I checked the price with BMW and it was something in the region of £200 (part number: 26117511454), when I managed to get a Ruville (OEM brand) guibo for less than 40 pounds. Ruville's part number is: 775031. And the last thing that I bought from Spare Part Store 24 was the centre propshaft bearing, which came complete with the mounting. Unfortunately, no OEM makes were available for this part and I had to go for Febi (part number: 02823), so I'll have to wait and see how good it's going to be. BMW was not an option (genuine part number: 26121226723), since they wanted something ridiculous, like £180 for the part, while I got Febi for just under £20. You might think that you're buying an inferior part, but you'll be surprised to know how much BMW marks up the parts they sell just for the privilege of having their badge on them... So that was all that I ordered from Germany and the rest of the parts were bought from BMW directly. What I ordered from my local dealer is everything that you can either only get from BMW and nowhere else, or I decided to go with genuine parts, because the prices were very reasonable, such as for the gearbox mountings, which I'll talk about further down below. Starting with the clutch pressure hose and the pipe, the hose was £55 and the pipe was £22, which comes in exact shape that it has to be, so there's no bending required or any messing around with it. A perfect example of how some stuff is reasonably priced from dealers. Clutch pressure hose: 32101157375 Clutch slave cylinder pipe: 21521159619 And there are x2 metal clips, which are for each end of the pressure hose, so I would advise getting them, in case yours are rusty or might break. Part number: 34341163565 Then moving onto the clutch area, it's advisable to replace the clutch fork, the spring clip for it and the ball pin. Chances are, it's all probably in decent condition, but you really wouldn't want to take the gearbox out again for the sake replacing something silly like that, if it causes trouble in the future. I also got the x6 bolts for the pressure plate as well, which ideally should be renewed with every clutch change. Clutch fork: 21511223302 Release spring clip: 21517570284 Ball pin: 21511223328 x6 Pressure plate bolts: 07129903984 The ball pin is a weak-looking, rubbery plastic thing, which I read that often gets replaced by stainless steel, aluminium or bronze units for better reliability and extended life-span, but I'm sure if you are running the normal clutch with no modifications, then the stock item should do the job just fine. The gearbox mounts, which I mentioned earlier, were unbelievably cheap - the front ones, which are identical to each other were £15 each and the rears, which are left and right sided, were only £12 each. You wouldn't think you were buying BMW parts at those prices... x2 Front gearbox mountings: 24701138435 Left gearbox mounting: 24701138427 Right gearbox mounting: 24701138428 Bear in mind, the above parts are for the manual 5-speed ZF gearbox, S5D310Z. Now the gear linkage, which depending on how "enthusiastically" your E34 was driven over the past 20-25 years, it could be completely knackered with your gear lever all over the place, or it could be like mine, which still feels ok, but I would rather get it all renewed, while I'm there. The best thing to do is to replace whatever bushes, mountings and joints are there, so you'll know that everything is 100%. That being said, here's what you need: Bush: 25117507695 Mounting bearing: 25111220707 Gear lever: 25111221779 Bearing: 25111220600 x4 Washers: 25111220439 x2 Clips: 25117571899 Joint: 25117503525 Pin: 23411466134 Tension clip: 25111203682 One thing I'd like to mention, if you have a look at the gear linkage diagram here > https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=HD52-EUR-09-1992-E34-BMW-525i&diagId=25_0025 You'll see that I made a mistake of ordering the item 20 (washer), which actually comes already installed with the joint (item 14), so just a heads up for those who are going to renew their linkage not to bother with that part. The linkage parts overall come up to around £170, so it's not too bad, considering you do it once in 20 years. And finally, a few exhaust brackets that I bought since mine that support the catalytic converter are quite rusty, so will be replacing them, when we take the exhaust off. It's a good idea to renew the catalytic converter gaskets (18301716888 - x2) along with 6 copper nuts (18301737774 - x6) to avoid any exhaust gas leaks later down the line. The rest of the parts below are just various brackets, bolts, washers and nuts for the catalytic converter support on the front, so again, it's better just to renew everything, as the parts are not expensive and will last a long time. Holder: 18211723375 Exhaust support: 18321728316 Bolt x2: 07119913676 Rubber washer x4: 18207546579 Washer x5: 33311108205 Nut x2: 07119905515 Clamp: 18211176717 Bolt: 07119912535 Bolt x2: 07119904146 That should be everything for now. Just need to remember to buy some Pagid DOT4 fluid to change the clutch fluid, as we haven't done that yet, but apart from that, I think I've got it all covered. The work will probably be done sometime in August, so will make sure to take a few photos during the repair and update the thread with the progress. Note for myself: need to look into replacing the ignition coils, as the car misfires occasionally and hesitates at lower revs. Check for vacuum leaks, maybe fuel pump, MAF and lambda sensor. The cat still rattles sometimes, so need to get that Klarius unit along with the Jetex cat-back exhaust system. Thanks for following and any tips appreciated.
  11. Blackman

    Kit's E34 535i

    I don't know if it's just my eyes, but on the above photo it looks like you've got the wider wheels on the front I was hoping to get the exact tyre sizes fitted to front/rear, if know them? I've got the exact same setup 17x8 front and 17x9 rear as you (style 21s), so just wondering what rubber you're running?
  12. Blackman

    Kit's E34 535i

    Are those 17x8 all around or you got a staggered set, i.e. wider at the rear? And what size tyres did you go for? How's the ride compared to the original 15's?
  13. Blackman

    E34 Propshaft Centre Bearing

    I'm ordering parts from Germany anyway - SparePartStore24 or Autodoc? It's the same thing. Regardless, the best make I could find for this was Febi...I'm reading mixed stuff about Febi (some say it's OEM, other say they just package Chinese parts in German boxes), but hope it will be ok. The box does say "Made in Germany" - only the time will tell how good it is.
  14. Blackman

    E34 Propshaft Centre Bearing

    Bearing in mind, yours is the original that was made by BMW in 1996, so eventhough you might think that you are buying the "same" part today, it's definitely NOT the case. No doubt, the genuine part bought today will still last a good amount of time, but I can almost guarantee that it won't be as good as what was made back in 90's.....And you could probably say that about a lot of things that we are surround by today, not just car parts. And the reason why I say BMW's price is ridiculous, is because their mark-up for having the BMW badge on the part is often ridiculous. As you probably know, BMW doesn't manufacture every single part for the cars that they produce, so naturally some things are outsourced to OEM suppliers, like Lemforder, TRW, Sachs, etc. For example, a control arm made by Lemforder and sold by BMW could be £150 from your local dealer, whereas if you were to source the exact same Lemforder part from an aftermarket supplier, it could be half the price, but with the BMW logo scratched out, since the part is being sold to the general public, rather than main dealers. Unfortunately, it's not everything that can be bought in such way, hence the reason why I was wondering what's better Meyle or Febi for the centre propshaft mounting, as nothing was available from OEM suppliers, i.e. Lemforder, Ruville, etc.
  15. Blackman

    E34 Propshaft Centre Bearing

    I always go with BMW, when the costs are reasonable, but I don't know what makes them think it's ok to charge a 3 figure sum for a propshaft bearing? Even the propshaft guibo on the front was something like £180, when I found a Ruville one for less than £40...
  16. Blackman

    The new project and not a 5! - 2006 E65 730D

    That seems like an Individual colour? Quite rare blue. Not a big fan of E65/E66, but the LCI model definitely looks better than the pre-facelift, and those wheels are probably one of the best for this 7 All the best with the project.
  17. Quite surprised no one has created a thread about this one, yet? See it here > https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Alpina-B3-5-BMW-E34/292608554042
  18. Blackman

    Differential Question

    I might buy the 525 Sport LSD diff, if you're selling it PM me, if you are.
  19. Blackman

    E34 Alpina B10 3.5

    sharkfan, thanks for clearing this up. So essentially, it's just a 3.5 with a few Alpina bits on it....That makes sense then. No wonder there are no engine bay photos, but credit to the seller, it's not advertised as a B10 anyway...
  20. Blackman

    Wiper blades

    Strange that the ones from EuroCarParts didn't fit? Last time I bought from them, it was an exact-matching set? Are you sure you got the right ones? ECP's product code for the correct blades is: 485773040 If you put that number into ECP's search bar, it should take you to the page with the right blades. The blades both should be 24".
  21. Blackman

    Seeing this M5, thoughts?

    The problem with rare cars is that they are worth as much as someone is willing to pay for it, so if he finds a buyer who will pay £30k for it, then best of luck to him....What can I say? The same applies to all the other rare M cars from 90's, including the E30 M3 Evo/Evo2 and E36 M3 GT/GT2, etc. They are at ridiculous prices now, considering you get slightly different bumpers with a few spoilers and that's it really....They are more like investments, rather than cars to drive and enjoy.
  22. Blackman

    Seeing this M5, thoughts?

    Unless it changed hands recently, this guy has been trying to sell it for the past 2 years - I remember when I was looking for my E34, this was for sale...And that was back in 2016.
  23. If has popped out, then most likely the roller guide has already weakened and there's no point of putting it back in, because it will pop out again. Apart from that, by all means you can try to do it, but as you try to press it onto the metal bit, the clip will snap into pieces - they are not designed to be replaced by hand.....Ask me how I know... I actually bought a second-hand regulator for the sake of replacing that one roller guide. I managed to take it out in one piece from the regulator that I bought, but it just fell apart when we tried to put it onto the metal part of my reg. Like I said, best solution = second-hand reg, complete.
  24. Had the same problem on mine. That roller guide is actually part of the window mechanism itself and you can't get it separately. The closest thing to it I found were Saab window roller guides (Saab part number: 4493433), but they are not a perfect fit and you'll have to modify them by trimming them to the required size. Unfortunately, they didn't last too long on mine, as I tried lowering the OSR window the other day and I heard a "pop", then the window become wonky again and wouldn't go up/down properly. Long story short, just get a complete second-hand regulator with a motor and replace yours - that's it.
  25. Blackman

    Under seat battery size

    How do you determine what's the correct battery spec for your car? M50 525i? RealOEM doesn't say much, you've got there 50/65/75 AH and that's it, but it doesn't say which one applies to the vehicle. It's not the end of the world, if you buy a slightly smaller/bigger battery, but just curious to know...
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