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Blackman last won the day on February 25

Blackman had the most liked content!

About Blackman

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    London, UK


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    E34 525i SE Manual

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  1. The clutch work has now been officially completed! It all went pretty smoothly, to be honest - nothing unexpected, which was a good thing, but I've purchased whatever parts had to come off, so I was well-prepared for everything. So the first thing to come off was the exhaust, and this time we had to remove it from the exhaust manifold end, rather than from the cat, as otherwise the front section would be in the way when taking the gearbox out. Make sure that you have the 2 gaskets for the catalytic converter and the 6 copper nuts, because the existing ones simply won't be re-usable. With the full exhaust out of the way, now you can remove the centre exhaust heatshield that covers the propshaft and see the condition of the propshaft centre bearing. To replace it, you will need to remove the propshaft, meaning 6 bolts at the gearbox end, where the propshaft flex disc (guibo) is, and 6 nuts at the diff end. With the propshaft out, we've inspected the centre bearing, and I was amazed to see that it was actually genuine BMW - whether it was the original from factory or was possibly replaced some time ago with a genuine BMW part, but it was in pretty decent condition regardless. To remove the centre bearing from the propshaft, you will need to undo the bolt in the middle of the propshaft to separate the two halves, and then the bearing slides out, complete with the mounting. The assembly is the reverse of the removal. Now the gearbox can come out. The top 2 bolts with the nuts that hold the starter motor in place can be a bit of a pain to get to, but with a few extensions, it's a doable job. The starter motor can stay where it is, you just need to slightly push it forward, towards the engine, so it clears the gearbox. And here it was finally on the floor: Had a look at the propshaft guibo and it looked perfect to me - I felt like I was changing all these bits for no reason..It was genuine BMW as well, made by Jurid. Anyway, it's good to replace all these things when doing major work, such as changing the clutch, so you won't have to go in there again in the future. With the gearbox out, now we can see the pressure plate/clutch assembly. The pressure plate is held by 6 allen bolts, but the replacements that I bought from BMW were torx - not a big deal, they fit perfectly fine. I would advise getting new bolts, as the existing ones are not always re-usable and you don't want to be stuck at this point of the job by not having a few bolts that don't cost a fortune. After having inspected the clutch, it was obvious that it was past its best with all kinds of cracks, uneven surface and small chunks missing everywhere. Both the pressure plate and the clutch were genuine BMW, made by LUK, so I'd say this was what the car left the factory with. One thing that I haven't bought was the dual-mass flywheel, but BMW doesn't necessarily recommend replacing these when doing the clutch, so it really depends on the condition and it's up to you, if you do it or not. It's not exactly cheap, but still reasonable - LUK is just over £300 from ECP (with the discount). Mine looked fine, so we decided to leave it. Enough chit-chat, back to work. The new clutch and the pressure plate is now in place - make sure to put the clutch disc the correct way round, it should say on it "Gearbox side", so you know which side goes where. Then we moved onto the gear linkage and the gearbox mountings. All pretty straightforward here - again, I'm sure everything that we've replaced was original BMW from factory, so looks like I was the first one to do such major work on the car. Surprisingly, the linkage bushes and the gear lever was all in good condition - I remember these bits were completely knackered on my E30, when I did the same work on that car. The complete gear linkage, fully assembled with all new bushes and mountings, ready to be fitted on the car: Almost forgot about the slave cylinder - nothing special here, really. I couldn't see any markings on the clutch hose that we removed, so not sure what make it was, but the slave cylinder was made by FTE, which is an OEM supplier, so good stuff. With all the new bits fitted, we began putting everything back into place and here you can see the gearbox already installed with all the mountings and the propshaft connected: We finished off by putting the exhaust back in and here are the gaskets and the nuts that I mentioned in the beginning of this post, saying that you should replace them. As you can see, I've also bought a few exhaust brackets as well. It's basically the bracket that supports the front section of the exhaust, as it's bolted to the rear of the gearbox. The difference in how the car pulls away now and how it used to, is definitely noticeable. The biting point is a lot lower, as the car starts moving when you only slightly release the clutch pedal. Also the clutch pedal itself has become very soft, probably due to the fact that I've got a new slave cylinder as well. It builds up speed with much less effort and obviously there's no more creaking clutch pedal when hot or occasional slipping. Overall, I'm very pleased. Not much left to do on this car to make it mechanically perfect. My "custom-made roller guides" for the rear window regulators didn't last too long, because just the other day I tried to put down the driver's rear window and it kind wobbled, almost collapsed, but luckily I managed to close it. As a result, I have actually purchased 2 second-hand regulators for the rear and going to fit them soon, hopefully then I'll have these rear windows fixed for good. Apart from that, I'd like to get the catalytic converter replaced by Klarius, since mine is making all kinds of funny noises, and most likely get a cat-back Jetex exhaust system as well, unless I can find any other decent make - this seems to be the best one, not sure if I would want to do anything custom-made... Then get a new lambda sensor while I'm there, replace all 6 ignition coils to cure the intermittent idling/hesitation problems, and worst-case scenario, I might need a new AFM as well.....Or I might try cleaning it and see if it helps, instead of having to buy a new one. All these things are not urgent and I'm not in too much of a hurry to get them done. So depending on funds/time available, I'll be sure to update this thread and let you know how it all goes. Thanks for following and all the best.
  2. Blackman

    16" tyre choices

    3 years later still can't choose the tyre size? As some people previously mentioned, an 8.5J rim should ideally have 235/245/255 rubber, so 225 is not the best, as it's the absolute minimum for a rim that wide. Whatever size you go for, the rears should be ok, but if you go too wide for the front (255 might be too much), then the tyres might not clear the struts. As for the profile, if you don't want the "balloon look" on the tyres, then don't go higher than 55, so I would probably say something like 245/45/16.
  3. Blackman

    Insurance Quotes For M5

    I'm going to play the Devil's advocate and say that you should've gotten an insurance quote for the car you were going to buy before actually purchasing it? I don't know why but some cars, even if they are exactly the same model/engine/spec, can differ in insurance premiums, like what you are experiencing now. Not sure why this happens, but obviously they only way to avoid any future problems is to get quotes for your potential new car before buying it.
  4. Blackman

    E34 Window Regulator Mechanism Repair

    Don't want to create a new thread, as my question is still relevant to this topic. Are the electric window regulators on pre-facelift and later cars the same and interchangeable? There seems to be some difference in part numbers, so wanted to double check before purchasing a regulator that won't fit....
  5. Blackman

    Kit's E34 535i

    Spot on, exactly what I've got on mine. If you still have the stock suspension, then the ride will probably be fine, but if you go for anything lowered with stiffer shocks/springs, then it might become a bit too harsh, although still usable for every day, depending on your preference of comfort.
  6. Ok, so all the parts shopping for the clutch work has now been done and here's what I've got. Starting with the most important thing, being the clutch kit, you basically have a choice of going for the Sachs kit or LUK. Both are excellent quality, OEM brands, so without the matter which one you go for, it will be good stuff. Amazingly, BMW still sell the clutch kit for the E34, at least for the M50B25TU, that's for sure - so if you want to go genuine and don't mind spending 300-400 pounds for the kit, then the BMW part number for the genuine clutch kit is: 21211223546 I decided to go for the Sachs kit myself and it cost me just over £100 from Spare Part Store 24. The correct Sachs clutch kit part number for the 525i is as follows: 3000 133 002. The kit includes the pressure plate, the clutch disc and the release bearing. Then for the clutch slave cylinder, there's really a big choice of quality brands, anything from Bosch and TRW to Sachs and Brembo. However, since I went with Sachs for the clutch kit, I decided to stick with it and go for the same make for the clutch slave cylinder. Sachs part number for the slave cylinder is: 6283 600 105 If the price from BMW was decent, then I would've gone for genuine, but they wanted something like 120 pounds, when I got Sachs for 40 quid. In case if you need BMW's part number for the slave cylinder, it is: 21526775924 The same goes for the propshaft rubber guibo, behind the gearbox - I checked the price with BMW and it was something in the region of £200 (part number: 26117511454), when I managed to get a Ruville (OEM brand) guibo for less than 40 pounds. Ruville's part number is: 775031. And the last thing that I bought from Spare Part Store 24 was the centre propshaft bearing, which came complete with the mounting. Unfortunately, no OEM makes were available for this part and I had to go for Febi (part number: 02823), so I'll have to wait and see how good it's going to be. BMW was not an option (genuine part number: 26121226723), since they wanted something ridiculous, like £180 for the part, while I got Febi for just under £20. You might think that you're buying an inferior part, but you'll be surprised to know how much BMW marks up the parts they sell just for the privilege of having their badge on them... So that was all that I ordered from Germany and the rest of the parts were bought from BMW directly. What I ordered from my local dealer is everything that you can either only get from BMW and nowhere else, or I decided to go with genuine parts, because the prices were very reasonable, such as for the gearbox mountings, which I'll talk about further down below. Starting with the clutch pressure hose and the pipe, the hose was £55 and the pipe was £22, which comes in exact shape that it has to be, so there's no bending required or any messing around with it. A perfect example of how some stuff is reasonably priced from dealers. Clutch pressure hose: 32101157375 Clutch slave cylinder pipe: 21521159619 And there are x2 metal clips, which are for each end of the pressure hose, so I would advise getting them, in case yours are rusty or might break. Part number: 34341163565 Then moving onto the clutch area, it's advisable to replace the clutch fork, the spring clip for it and the ball pin. Chances are, it's all probably in decent condition, but you really wouldn't want to take the gearbox out again for the sake replacing something silly like that, if it causes trouble in the future. I also got the x6 bolts for the pressure plate as well, which ideally should be renewed with every clutch change. Clutch fork: 21511223302 Release spring clip: 21517570284 Ball pin: 21511223328 x6 Pressure plate bolts: 07129903984 The ball pin is a weak-looking, rubbery plastic thing, which I read that often gets replaced by stainless steel, aluminium or bronze units for better reliability and extended life-span, but I'm sure if you are running the normal clutch with no modifications, then the stock item should do the job just fine. The gearbox mounts, which I mentioned earlier, were unbelievably cheap - the front ones, which are identical to each other were £15 each and the rears, which are left and right sided, were only £12 each. You wouldn't think you were buying BMW parts at those prices... x2 Front gearbox mountings: 24701138435 Left gearbox mounting: 24701138427 Right gearbox mounting: 24701138428 Bear in mind, the above parts are for the manual 5-speed ZF gearbox, S5D310Z. Now the gear linkage, which depending on how "enthusiastically" your E34 was driven over the past 20-25 years, it could be completely knackered with your gear lever all over the place, or it could be like mine, which still feels ok, but I would rather get it all renewed, while I'm there. The best thing to do is to replace whatever bushes, mountings and joints are there, so you'll know that everything is 100%. That being said, here's what you need: Bush: 25117507695 Mounting bearing: 25111220707 Gear lever: 25111221779 Bearing: 25111220600 x4 Washers: 25111220439 x2 Clips: 25117571899 Joint: 25117503525 Pin: 23411466134 Tension clip: 25111203682 One thing I'd like to mention, if you have a look at the gear linkage diagram here > https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=HD52-EUR-09-1992-E34-BMW-525i&diagId=25_0025 You'll see that I made a mistake of ordering the item 20 (washer), which actually comes already installed with the joint (item 14), so just a heads up for those who are going to renew their linkage not to bother with that part. The linkage parts overall come up to around £170, so it's not too bad, considering you do it once in 20 years. And finally, a few exhaust brackets that I bought since mine that support the catalytic converter are quite rusty, so will be replacing them, when we take the exhaust off. It's a good idea to renew the catalytic converter gaskets (18301716888 - x2) along with 6 copper nuts (18301737774 - x6) to avoid any exhaust gas leaks later down the line. The rest of the parts below are just various brackets, bolts, washers and nuts for the catalytic converter support on the front, so again, it's better just to renew everything, as the parts are not expensive and will last a long time. Holder: 18211723375 Exhaust support: 18321728316 Bolt x2: 07119913676 Rubber washer x4: 18207546579 Washer x5: 33311108205 Nut x2: 07119905515 Clamp: 18211176717 Bolt: 07119912535 Bolt x2: 07119904146 That should be everything for now. Just need to remember to buy some Pagid DOT4 fluid to change the clutch fluid, as we haven't done that yet, but apart from that, I think I've got it all covered. The work will probably be done sometime in August, so will make sure to take a few photos during the repair and update the thread with the progress. Note for myself: need to look into replacing the ignition coils, as the car misfires occasionally and hesitates at lower revs. Check for vacuum leaks, maybe fuel pump, MAF and lambda sensor. The cat still rattles sometimes, so need to get that Klarius unit along with the Jetex cat-back exhaust system. Thanks for following and any tips appreciated.
  7. Blackman

    Kit's E34 535i

    I don't know if it's just my eyes, but on the above photo it looks like you've got the wider wheels on the front I was hoping to get the exact tyre sizes fitted to front/rear, if know them? I've got the exact same setup 17x8 front and 17x9 rear as you (style 21s), so just wondering what rubber you're running?
  8. Blackman

    Kit's E34 535i

    Are those 17x8 all around or you got a staggered set, i.e. wider at the rear? And what size tyres did you go for? How's the ride compared to the original 15's?
  9. Blackman

    E34 Propshaft Centre Bearing

    I'm ordering parts from Germany anyway - SparePartStore24 or Autodoc? It's the same thing. Regardless, the best make I could find for this was Febi...I'm reading mixed stuff about Febi (some say it's OEM, other say they just package Chinese parts in German boxes), but hope it will be ok. The box does say "Made in Germany" - only the time will tell how good it is.
  10. Blackman

    E34 Propshaft Centre Bearing

    Bearing in mind, yours is the original that was made by BMW in 1996, so eventhough you might think that you are buying the "same" part today, it's definitely NOT the case. No doubt, the genuine part bought today will still last a good amount of time, but I can almost guarantee that it won't be as good as what was made back in 90's.....And you could probably say that about a lot of things that we are surround by today, not just car parts. And the reason why I say BMW's price is ridiculous, is because their mark-up for having the BMW badge on the part is often ridiculous. As you probably know, BMW doesn't manufacture every single part for the cars that they produce, so naturally some things are outsourced to OEM suppliers, like Lemforder, TRW, Sachs, etc. For example, a control arm made by Lemforder and sold by BMW could be £150 from your local dealer, whereas if you were to source the exact same Lemforder part from an aftermarket supplier, it could be half the price, but with the BMW logo scratched out, since the part is being sold to the general public, rather than main dealers. Unfortunately, it's not everything that can be bought in such way, hence the reason why I was wondering what's better Meyle or Febi for the centre propshaft mounting, as nothing was available from OEM suppliers, i.e. Lemforder, Ruville, etc.
  11. Blackman

    E34 Propshaft Centre Bearing

    I always go with BMW, when the costs are reasonable, but I don't know what makes them think it's ok to charge a 3 figure sum for a propshaft bearing? Even the propshaft guibo on the front was something like £180, when I found a Ruville one for less than £40...
  12. Blackman

    E34 Propshaft Centre Bearing

    Going to replace the centre propshaft bearing, complete with the mounting, but the genuine BMW part is ridiculous money, something like £200, so I started looking for decent OEM stuff, but essentially I'm limited to just Meyle or Febi? Lemforder no longer makes these, Ruville same thing, so there's nothing quality left out there, because I don't want to bother with any dodgy stuff like Topran, Vaico or JP Parts.... I have no experience with Meyle parts, but I remember I bought Febi exhaust mounts for my E30 few years ago and they lasted less than a year....Was possibly a fake, as I hear there are lots of counterfeit items for these makes, but I wasn't too happy anyway.... So the question is, should I go with Meyle prop bearing or Febi? The price is roughly the same (around £20), so makes no difference.
  13. Blackman

    The new project and not a 5! - 2006 E65 730D

    That seems like an Individual colour? Quite rare blue. Not a big fan of E65/E66, but the LCI model definitely looks better than the pre-facelift, and those wheels are probably one of the best for this 7 All the best with the project.
  14. Blackman

    Differential Question

    I might buy the 525 Sport LSD diff, if you're selling it PM me, if you are.
  15. Blackman

    E34 Alpina B10 3.5

    sharkfan, thanks for clearing this up. So essentially, it's just a 3.5 with a few Alpina bits on it....That makes sense then. No wonder there are no engine bay photos, but credit to the seller, it's not advertised as a B10 anyway...