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Blackman

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Blackman last won the day on October 1

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About Blackman

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    E34 525i SE Manual

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  1. As Carl said above, better be safe than sorry, so get it done while you're at it. I got my Pierburg pump from EuroCarParts, which was around 230, including the online discount.
  2. Had my first ever breakdown in any car that I've owned in the last 10 years and was a bit, erhmm, surprised, to say the least.....Well, it was kind of my fault, so can't really blame anyone else. I mean, how long do you expect a fuel pump to work on a 25 year old car and god knows, if it has ever been changed? My only excuse is that this just happened out of nowhere, really....If I would've had any kind of obvious symptoms recently, then I would've known what to expect, but it just randomly died. Have to admit, the car sputtered and cut out on me in traffic few months ago, but then it started right back up and has been fine ever since, so I didn't really think much about that incident....Anyway, lesson learned. Here's my taxi below: Long story short, I'm a bit of an idiot for completely forgetting about the fact that after all the work that I've done on the car, I've missed the fuel pump and should've replaced it loooooong time ago to avoid this silly situation. Luckily, it was a nice sunny afternoon and I was in my local area driving around 20 mph when the car all of a sudden lost power, stopped reacting to the accelerator pedal and gradually came to a halt on a residential road. Tried starting it again, but it would just crank without firing up. I managed to push it away from the road and park it in a bay until a colleague of mine recovered me to a friend's house the next day. A bit of an inconvenience, but I appreciate that it could've been a lot worse, such as cutting out at 70 mph in the outside lane of a motorway at 3am in the morning, on the way to the airport! Touch wood, I always look after my cars well and such things don't normally happen with me, so this incident definitely took me by surprise. IMPORTANT: It's recommended to have 1/4 full tank of fuel or even less, if possible, when replacing the fuel pump, as it will make a lot easier removing the pump since you'll have a clear view of how it's fitted in the tank. The fuel pump on the E34 is located under the carpet, in the boot and there's a black cover held by 5 screws that you have to remove to access the pump. Once you've removed this cover, you'll see the top of the fuel pump assembly, which has a plug connected to it and 2 fuel hoses, as below: To remove the plug, you need to slide the metal bracket away from the connector while simultaneously pulling the plug outwards. As for the fuel hoses, unless you have the special tool for removing/locking those fuel hose clamps, it's advisable to have some replacement BMW jubilee clips/hose clamps (part number: 07129952104) before you start undoing those. Also have some cloths/towels ready, as some fuel will spill out and you don't want to make a mess. Make sure to clean up all the dust and dirt around the assembly, because once you've removed the cap, then it could all go into the fuel tank, which obviously you want to avoid. You'll have to gently tap the black cap with a flat screwdriver and a hammer in an anti-clockwise direction, because there's no way of undoing it by hand. Once you have unscrewed it, you'll have to move the fuel sender part of the assembly out of the way (the white part) and reach into the fuel tank with your hand to unclip the pump assembly from its bracket located in the tank. It is a bit fiddly, but this is the reason why you should have a minimum amount of fuel in the tank, because otherwise you won't be able to see how the pump is held in place or how to remove it. There are basically 2 tabs on the assembly that you push inwards and then pull the pump up from the bracket. See the photos below of the whole assembly removed to get a better idea. Notice those tabs on each side of the fuel pump assembly, which is what you squeeze inwards from the top to release the pump from its bracket in the tank. Also see how all the clips used around on the assembly are special hose clamps. There's no need to replace these, as long as you have the right tool for unlocking/securing them. Remember how everything is connected, so depending on which replacement fuel pump you get, you'll know how to correctly re-connect it all back together. The thinner/smaller stud on the pump is Positive (+) and the larger one is Negative (-). You won't have to worry about replacing the fuel pump filter separately, as usually they come together with replacement fuel pumps, so that's one less thing to worry about. However, if you don't have it, then make sure to get a new one, as it wouldn't make sense to go through all this work and re-use an old filthy filter. Depending on what manufacturer you go for when buying your new fuel pump, you may have to do a bit of extra work and it won't always be a straight swap-over. For example, the pump that was fitted on my car was made by Bosch and in the past, you could simply buy just the pump itself, without any other accessories, and replace it hassle-free. You would have to separate it from the inner housing, but that's about it - see the pics below. Checking the above part number, you can no longer buy this exact Bosch fuel pump, because it has been superseded by a newer unit, which comes complete with a plug on top and a wiring kit, meaning you'll have to mess around with the existing wiring of the pump assembly to crimp in new pins, so then you can push them into the new connector and plug it into the pump......Not the best scenario, but if I was to go with a Bosch replacement, then it would have to be part number 0580314123, as per the photo below: As you can see, it is supplied as a complete assembly with the filter and the inner/outer housing, along with 2 pins and a connector. Like I said earlier, the downside to this is that you'll have to modify the wiring, which I didn't want to do, so I decided to go for an alternative make. For your info, you can get an equivalent pump to the original Bosch one that was fitted on my car, i.e. with the studs on the top, but then it would be an inferior quality make and probably wouldn't last long. Luckily, another OEM alternative to Bosch is a Pierburg pump (part number: 7.21913.50.0) , which actually comes with studs on top, meaning it's just plug and play without any need to modify anything. It was readily available from EuroCarParts, so I got it straightaway and here's how it looks like: When I opened the box, the part number on the actual pump was different from what was on the label, but after checking the part numbers in the Pierburg's parts catalogue, everything matched fine - for your info, 7.21833.51 is an old number (stamped on the pump) and has been replaced by 7.21913.50.0 (on the box). After finally doing all the research and purchasing the right fuel pump, it was just a matter of putting everything back together and starting the car. You will have to re-use the outer part of the pump bracket, which fits over the new inner bracket of the replacement pump. There's only one right way of fitting it, so you can't really get it wrong - just pay attention to how it's installed, when you are removing it from the old pump. Then you'll have to re-connect the wires to their studs (positive/negative) and secure them with washers/nuts. One hose goes on the pump that supplies the fuel into the engine and the other one connects to the outer bracket, which is the return fuel line. Again, pay attention not to confuse them and replace the hose clamps, as required. All done, ready to be fitted: The installation is the reverse of removal, so make sure that the black part of the pump assembly properly clicks into place in the fuel tank, then carefully put the fuel sender back in as well and install the black cap with a few light taps of a flat screwdriver + hammer. Secure the fuel hoses, re-connect the plug and you are done! Started the car, it ran perfectly fine and I haven't had any problems since. Still can't believe that this actually happened to me, considering all the things that I've taken care of, but like I mentioned earlier, totally forgot about the fuel pump. Funny enough, I did replace it as a precaution on my previous car, an E30, but for some reason it slipped past me on the E34. Well, what can you do? Have to say that I've noticed a significant difference of how the car pulls away and gathers speed, so it seems like the old pump did work, but it was definitely weak. It's now a lot more responsive and smoother and there's no hesitation in the lower revs. A happy ending overall. Apart from this, not much happened lately. Still haven't fitted the replacement second-hand rear window regulators that I bought back in August, so that most likely will be the next job, but otherwise if anything else comes up, you'll be first to know. Thanks for reading.
  3. Blackman

    E34 Front Strut / Suspension Shopping List

    Don't waste time with cheap parts and just get the FAG wheel bearing kit from EuroCarParts - with the online discount, it comes up to £81.89 and it's suitable for cars with or without ABS. The FAG manufacturer part number on the box should be: 713 6671 80 SKF is also a good brand, but FAG is readily available from ECP, so I see no reason why not to buy it, instead of shopping around for something else.
  4. Blackman

    Windscreen Replacement

    If you haven't done it before, it's one of those things that is better left to professionals. Windscreens are all the same shape-wise, but you can get them in different colours, like clear or greenish with a blue stripe on top, etc. The mouldings around the windscreens are £180 each, last time I checked, so be careful with them. You will probably need quite a few of the clips (part number: 51318177850) that go around the windscreen to hold these mouldings in place as well. It's important to remove the old adhesive properly and prepare the surface correctly before applying the new windscreen glue. The guy who did mine knew exactly what he was doing and did a top job in the end, although I doubt he'll be able to come to Ireland, if that's where you are based. It was Paul from Glasstec, highly recommended > https://www.glasstecauto.co.uk/
  5. Blackman

    E34 Fuel Pump Replacement (M50B25TU)

    I can get the Pierburg unit for about 170 from Germany (SparePartStore24), but unfortunately I can't sit around waiting for more than a week for it to arrive, as the car is currently on my friend's driveway, taking up space... The same part is £230, including the discount from ECP and I should be able to pick it up on Tuesday, so hopefully fit it on Wednesday and be done with it. Not the ideal scenario, but obviously this was all totally unexpected, especially considering the fact that I've been overhauling the whole car for almost 2 years now, but completely forgot about this stupid pump which I should've replaced long time ago...
  6. Blackman

    E34 Fuel Pump Replacement (M50B25TU)

    Was struggling to find an online parts catalogue for Pierburg to check for compatibility, but managed to find their PDF parts catalogue and searched using their part number for the pump, which is: 7.21913.50.0 Turns out this pump is compatible with all E34 petrol engine models, including the M5. Apart from listing OE part numbers, the catalogue also shows numbers of other parts manufacturers, like Bosch, Delphi, etc, so you can compare this part against other brands. If anyone's interested, it's here > https://www.ms-motorservice.com/fileadmin/media/MAM/PDF_Assets/PIERBURG-Teile-PIERBURG-parts-Pièces-PIERBURG-Piezas-PIERBURG-Componenti-PIERBURG-части-PIERBURG_583131.pdf I know what I'm buying now Pierburg it is!
  7. Blackman

    E34 Fuel Pump Replacement (M50B25TU)

    Ok, that's good to know, because otherwise I can't seem to find any other differences between the pumps. Alright, I'll check the stocks on Monday and see what's the best option for me. Cheers
  8. Blackman

    E34 Fuel Pump Replacement (M50B25TU)

    Thanks Carl. When I'm checking the part number from the pump that was on the car using Bosch's online parts catalogue, it says the direct replacement is what ECP sells with the new modified plug. I've checked on numerous parts websites and seems like Bosch no longer sells just the pump, as now it comes complete with the filter and the inner/outer mountings, but unfortunately you have to mess around with the plug...Funny thing is, on the their own parts catalogue, Bosch says this is the replacement for the "Pierburg unit"....Go figure. Looking at my existing pump assembly, it looks exactly as what Bosch sells with the exception of the plug area, which I don't have, as instead there are the studs/nuts for the wires. I'm not too keen on re-crimping wires and was thinking of going for the Pierburg pump, but it looks like the outer bracket is missing, and I wasn't sure if my existing bigger outer bracket would fit over the inner mounting already on the Pierburg pump? I'm not 100% sure, but I don't think there's actual technical difference between the pumps, apart from the plug modification and maybe the brackets, which you could possibly swap/re-use with whatever's on the car?
  9. My fuel pump died the other day and we removed the pump, checked it with direct power feed to make sure it was dead and it's not doing anything, so we are 100% sure that's the fault and I need a replacement. Looking at EuroCarParts, I can see there are 2 choices really...One is made by Bosch, which has a modified plug connector on top of the pump, so they provide a "parts kit" for you to crimp the new wire connectors, which then slot into the pump connector using the plastic plug supplied. Seems like a bit of a hassle? Below is the Bosch pump: And you also have one made by Pierburg, which is slightly more expensive, I'm assuming because it has same-as-factory studs on top of the pump, so you just secure your original wires with nuts onto it and job done? No need for any wiring modifications, hence the higher price? See the Pierburg pump pic below: I found a link where the guy used the Bosch pump with wire changes here > http://almostgonesblog.blogspot.com/2010/04/replacing-fuel-pump-on-93-bmw-525i.html And this guy uses the Pierburg pump, which is just a straight swap-over? > http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Maintenance/Engine/FuelPump.htm Are any differences between those pumps or between E34 fuel pumps in general? What I know is that I have a plastic fuel tank and the part number on the Bosch fuel pump that we removed is: 0580453021 Any help appreciated. Thanks.
  10. Blackman

    1989 E34 Headlight issue

    Find the one fitted on your car and there should be a part number on it. Then you can use that part number to order a replacement, if it's not too costly, or repair yours like Five-oh suggested.
  11. Blackman

    E34 Front Strut / Suspension Shopping List

    I went for the Bilstein B12 Pro kit last year, which includes B8 Performance Plus shocks and Eibach springs, which are slightly lower than original, similar to M-tech. You can read my post here > http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/125038-1993-bmw-e34-525i-se-manual-diamantschwarz-metallic-saloon/?do=findComment&comment=1390870 You have pretty much everything covered in your list. For any bolts/nuts, just go directly with genuine BMW items, as the prices are often reasonable and there's no headache of trying to source random bits. Check on RealOEM what you need, then order with your local dealer. Don't forget the bump stops for the shocks and dust covers, depending on what set you go for, you may need them. As for top mounts, just stick to OEM brands, like Sachs, and you'll be fine - I wouldn't bother with no powerflux stuff. Also you won't necessarily need M-tech top mounts, like the ones Carl mentioned...It depends on what shocks you go for, so you'll have to check the part description of the manufacturer to know what top mounts you'll need.
  12. Blackman

    Behr/ Hella water pump

    If you bought it from a good source, like you said, then you should be fine. Obviously, the packaging should be right as well with Hella branding, correct part numbers, etc.
  13. Blackman

    Behr/ Hella water pump

    I don't know why, but the opinions are very mixed for Febi stuff....Possibly due to so many fakes around? Some say it's great quality OEM parts, others say they just package Chinese crap in German boxes. This is the reason why I was a bit hesitant fitting a Febi propshaft centre bearing on my E34, but I guess the time will tell how good/bad it's going to be.
  14. Blackman

    Behr/ Hella water pump

    Good point on parts copies. I learned my lesson a few years ago when I bought "Febi" exhaust mounts for my E30 from Ebay....Thinking they are "OEM" and will last forever, only to find out that they broke less than 1 year later. Nowadays, when I'm buying parts, it's only main dealer, EuroCarParts or Autodoc/SparePartStore24. I'm sure there are good sellers on eBay selling genuine parts, but you've got plenty of choice with the other 3 suppliers, and they are competitive on prices as well, which makes eBay redundant.
  15. Blackman

    Behr/ Hella water pump

    If it's a genuine Hella or Behr unit, then whatever it is, just go for it. These are both OEM manufacturers, so if they make plastic impellers nowadays, then that's the best solution. The stories of plastic impellers breaking could be linked to cheap aftermarket water pumps, which would predictably fail early due to cheap design, materials used or other reasons.
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