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Blackman last won the day on February 25

Blackman had the most liked content!

About Blackman

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    E34 525i SE Manual

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  1. What I realised is that the weatherstrips (rubber seals) are NOT 100% watertight, so a minimal amount of water still goes into the door, but that's what the sound insulation foam is there for - apart from dampening the noise, it's also there to absorb a bit of water, because it's quite thick and spongy. Possibly mine wasn't stuck onto the door properly or has come off over time and that allowed the water to start dripping into the door card, causing the bottom damage.
  2. Okay, so I've made some progress and it only took me 2 months to get the rear electric windows sorted...One thing led to another, but it's finally done. My front windows have always worked fine, but the previous owner told me that he had some problems with the rear windows, so I've never touched them since I bought the car and just kept them closed. There were more important things to worry about, but having done the brakes, suspension, steering, wheels and a few other things, I thought it would be a good time to finally look into this. I had no idea about the work required to get the rear windows back to life, so initially I just wanted to take the door cards off and see what was going on there. I've done a bit of shopping before doing the job, making sure I had the basic stuff ready. I bought the WD40 specialist high-performance silicone spray for lubricating the window channels, Comma multi-purpose spray grease for lubricating the window mechanism and bonnet/boot/door hinges (I thought I would do them, while I'm there) and some door card clips (BMW part number: 51411973500), as they usually break, when you take the cards off. Also used WD40 to clean off any previous gunk from the hinges before spraying fresh grease. On a nice, sunny Saturday afternoon, we started taking the rear door cards off and things didn't exactly go to plan. One thing, which I didn't expect, is that they will start falling apart and I would need to re-glue them. I have read that door cards aren't the strongest point in E34s, but then considering that they are over 20 years old, it's not really surprising. Unfortunately, the top half of the rear door cards split when we were taking them off, but it wasn't the end of it. While the driver's side rear door card was structurally in-tact, but the passenger one was wet and damp on the bottom section of it. Seems like water has leaked into the door card over the years and the accumulation of it caused the bottom 2 mountings to come away from the card. By this point, it was slowly becoming clear that it wouldn't be a 1-day job, as we would have to properly dry the door card, clean off the dirt, re-attach the mountings and only then it would be ready to go back on the car. Anyway, with the door cards off, we started playing around with the regulators to see what was going on. So basically a common problem with BMWs from this era is that you have white plastic regulator guides, which hold the regulator arms in place and help them slide smoothly through the channels. Over time, these guides become hard and brittle, simply due to age, and when they break, you end with pretty much non-functional windows. Since the arms are no longer held firmly in place, the windows sometimes get stuck when operating or struggle to go up/down, because the regulator can't travel properly through its channels. This was exactly my problem. The square-rish piece on the left with a clip that goes in the middle of it is a regulator guide that can be bought separately from BMW (part number: 51321938884). You will need x2 of them per one window regulator. The part is the same for both front and rear. However, my problem was that I also needed the round roller guides on the right, which are actually part of the regulator itself, so you can't buy them alone and you would need to purchase a complete regulator. I thought it would be a bit silly to buy a complete regulator just because of one broken guide, so I knew that there had to be a better way. In the meantime, since there was nothing else we could do at that point, we took off the front door cards to lubricate the regulator channels and check if the cards were ok. The overall condition of the front cards was fine. We broke a few clips, which wasn't a big deal, but we noticed that the upholstery was peeling away around the edges and since we had some Evo-Stik handy, I thought we should make use of it. Evo-stik is just perfect for doing this kind of work and it's pretty much an instant bond. You just apply it with a brush to the area that needs to be bonded, leave it for 5-10 minutes to dry and then firmly press on the upholstery to the door card. Magic! That was it for the day, as there wasn't much else to do, because I had to sort out the guides for the regulators and repair the passenger rear door card. About a week or two later, we repaired the door card and I've done more shopping. I bought 4 square window guides from BMW, which were only a few quid each, but I also ended up buying a complete rear window regulator, because despite me doing tons of research into all kinds of window guides and clips, trying to find what else could be done instead of replacing the whole regulator, I couldn't really find a solution. The reason why I bought only 1 regulator, is because I was hoping to re-use one of my original roller guides, as apart from a tiny split on the outer edge of it, the rest was fine. However, I would be lying if I didn't mention these green Saab window roller guides (Saab part number: 4493433). This was the closest thing I could find that could potentially replace the round roller guides of the regulators. Eventhough, I bought a second-hand regulator just for the sake of one guide and was planning to re-use the other one that was originally on the car, I wasn't 100% sure that we would be able to put them back on. So I bought 2 of these just in case and it turned out to be a good decision. When the time came to do the job, we managed to remove the roller guide in one piece from the regulator that I purchased, so it was a good start, because I thought putting it on would be simple....And I was wrong. Doing it by hand is impossible, so you have to use some kind of a tool, like pliers, to clip it onto the regulator arm, but as soon as we applied a bit of pressure on it, it broke into pieces. And the exact same thing happened to the other guide that I wanted to re-use. It seems like when these regulators were made, the plastic guides were slotted into the channels and the regulator arms attached to the guides at the factory. As we have found out, they are not a serviceable item, if they break....Well, there's no official procedure for that, apart from like I said earlier, just replacing the complete regulator. Instead what we've done is modified the above Saab guides to fit them onto the regulators. They are NOT a direct fit, because they are too big, too wide and too thick, so you will ideally need a belt sander to get them to the right shape and size, because otherwise they won't fit. Also another thing you will need to do is slightly adjust the position of the channel, where this guide travels through. The reason why this is needed, is because no matter how much we tried to modify the guide, it was still popping out from the regulator arm, when the window reached the fully closed position. Therefore, you need to adjust the channel position, so that the regulator still fully closes the window, but the guide doesn't travel all the way to the end of the channel, so it can't pop out. It might sound complicated, but someone with a bit of knowledge of how window regulators work, will know how to do this. So in short, thanks to these Saab window guides and a bit of adjusting, we managed to get the rear windows working perfectly fine, going up and down smoothly with no problems - just like from factory! Before putting the rear door cards back on, we replaced these clips (BMW part number: 51411944663) that go in the middle of them. They basically hold the door card onto the window regulator, which is attached to the door, so that's how everything stays in place. And finally, the last thing to sort out was the minor water leak that caused the dampness of the passenger rear door card. Assuming a door is fitted and lined up correctly, there's really just one point where water can get into the door and that's the window moulding. Whether you have chrome or shadow-line window mouldings on your E34, they are actually re-usable and you can replace the seals inside them separately. I decided to do it once and do it right, so I bought both driver (BMW part number: 51221944348) and passenger side (BMW part number: 51221944347) rear outer window seals. Taking off these mouldings is pretty easy, as they just slide up from the door - just be careful to pry them off evenly, because otherwise you will bend them. The inner rubber seals also slide in/out from the mouldings, but are a bit of a pain to replace. Mine were badly corroded and the rubbers were hard as well as cracking, so no wonder they let water in, but for some reason only the NSR door card was damp. Seems like BMW are trying to make the most money out of these parts, because these rubber seals were about £70 per side - not too bad, considering it's a bit of rubber stuck to a piece of metal. All this hassle for such a trivial thing, like REAR electric windows, but since I started messing around with them, it had to be done. For some reason the catalytic converter has gone quite on my exhaust, so it no longer makes any funny noises, hence the reason why I decided to postpone replacing the cat/exhaust and focus on the clutch replacement instead. What I want to do is to have a proper look underneath the car and see what else should be done while we are there, so I thought while the car is on the ramp for an inspection, it would be wise to change the gearbox, differential and power steering oil, as who knows when it was last done. I will need to look into the correct oils that should be used and will update the thread once I've purchased everything. After changing the oils and making a list of parts required for the clutch work, some more shopping will need to be done, so as always, I'll keep you updated. Thanks for following.
  3. Blackman

    BMW 540i 86k

    The bidding starts at £5k, so essentially that's the minimum he's willing to let the car go for - if you bid at £5k and no one else does, then it's yours for that price. However, I won't be surprised if it goes for £6-7k - it's a pretty clean car based on the photos/description and he seems to be the original owner, as it shows 0 previous owners? Nothing wrong with the M5 bits, all genuine and nicely compliment the looks of the car. The only thing I noticed is that the maintenance list doesn't look too thorough, unless not everything has been described - not a word about wishbones, suspension bushes, shocks/springs? I'm sure it's all fine, but just saying...
  4. Blackman

    Rear coil springs - easy or hard?

    Might be a good time to possibly replace your rear top mounts and maybe the shocks as well? Also check the condition of the bump stops, as they can be shot as well, so again you can change them while you're there.
  5. Blackman

    Rear Door Window Poser Moulding Leaking Water

    By the way, are these weatherstrips easy to change? Do they just slide out from inside the mouldings or there is something holding them in place?
  6. Blackman

    Rear Door Window Poser Moulding Leaking Water

    I ended up buying the NSR weatherstrip for about 70 quid from BMW....Talk about a daylight robbery.
  7. Blackman

    Parasitic drain on fuse 20

    Have a look at this > http://www.e38.org/e34/e34_95_etm.pdf Fuse 20 is for a couple of things...
  8. Blackman

    Windscreen Wipers

    That clip shouldn't make the wipers judder, as it's only there as an extra measure to hold the blade to the arm. Also are you sure the blades are fitted properly, as the wiper blades for an E34 are quite difficult to get due to the driver's wiper arm having a "reverse-hook"? I remember getting a Bosch set from EuroCarParts and it was a straight fit with no problems. And another thing about the judder, if the windscreen is cold/dry, then the juddering can happen for some reason - I occasionally get that on my driver's wiper blade on cold mornings as well.
  9. Blackman

    High mile 518i , why not?

    I wouldn't bother with a 518i...In my opinion, an E34 needs a straight six, ideally at least a 525i, or if you can stretch to a V8, then even better.
  10. Blackman

    E34 Wheel bolt size...

    Yes, that's the right size. BMW part number = 36136781150
  11. Blackman

    Rear Door Window Poser Moulding Leaking Water

    When you say rubber seal, are you talking about no 7 on the diagram that I've posted above? If so, then I've checked the price for that part with BMW today and it was something like 70 quid.....A bit ridiculous for a piece of rubber, I kind of expected 20-30 quid, but 70 is a rip-off. As for the plastic skin, do you mean the sound deadening foam? But then the issue is that water shouldn't be going into the door in the first place, as obviously the foam is there just to dampen the noise from the window regulator or just road noise, rather than stop the water from going into the door card....Unless I'm mistaken? Looking at these window mouldings on the rear doors, they both look identical with equal gaps between the trim and the window + rear quarter glass.....And yet the driver's side is good, but the passenger side drips water from around the lock area.
  12. Blackman

    Touring subframe bush removal tool

    The one in your link looks like just a custom-made one, but Sealey make a subframe bush removal/installation tool specifically for an E39 - the model is Sealey VSE5580. I haven't used it myself, but I'm assuming it should be of decent quality, as Sealey manufacture a variety of servicing/garage equipment. The kit is about £90-100, so fairly priced as well. P. S. Checked the instruction manual for VSE5580 and it says "E39 Saloon", so I'm not 100% sure if it will work for the Touring as well, but I would think the subframes are the same?
  13. There is water leaking into the door card on the NSR door of my E34 and it seems to be coming from around the window moulding area, which is item number 6 on this diagram > http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=HD52-EUR-09-1992-E34-BMW-525i&diagId=41_0736 Am I right that 6 and 7 are one piece? The moulding comes off by prying it off carefully and the weatherstrip is stuck to the back of it? Is this a common place for a water leak? The moulding seems fine to me and it looks exactly the same as all the others, but strangely enough only this moulding is letting water in, which has also dampened the bottom of the door card, as that's what stops the water from going into the interior. It's a slow leak, but obviously needs to be sorted. Any ideas? Is there any point of getting a new moulding, which I believe is no longer available from BMW?
  14. Blackman

    Low Mileage e39 530i SE - Whats it worth?

    It's worth as much as someone is willing to pay for it. Being a low mileage example helps, but to get a good price you'll need to describe it well on your ad, take good all-around inside/out pictures and prove all the work done, etc. I would say maybe £4-5k, if you manage to find the right buyer, but check what's already for sale and that will give you an idea of how much to ask for. Quite often you see cars with higher mileage in better condition, than those with half on the clock, which are in battered state, so it goes without saying that it all depends on how well the car has been looked after - the mileage is only one of the factors.
  15. Pretty much exactly my thoughts. It is a 540i with a manual box , but apart from that there's nothing in it that's worth £10k... Straight-piped exhaust, silly gear knob, pressed plates, all blacked-out on the front, silly dish wheels, the spoiler on the rear screen, aluminium accelerator pedal, empty Redbull can in the door card + the fact that the "saund is amazing!!!" and it has a "privet nomber plate" would make me run away without looking back. Some might say I'm being too picky, but you can't afford not to be when you're spending £10k.