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Blackman

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Blackman last won the day on October 1

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About Blackman

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    E34 525i SE Manual

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  1. Blackman

    E34 Front Strut / Suspension Shopping List

    I've got M-Sport front top mounts on mine, part number: 31331139437, but that's because I'm running B8 Performance Plus shocks, which do require M-Sport mounts, as regular ones won't fit. And yes, I would say B8 shocks would be classed as "M-tech" suspension, hence the reason why you would need M-tech top mounts, instead of the regular ones. Like I said earlier, use the Bilstein catalogue above and find exactly what you've ordered, then see if there's anything specific mentioned about those parts. Did you buy a suspension kit, including the springs, or was it just shocks? Or use the part numbers from the boxes you have to look them up in the catalogue...
  2. Blackman

    E34 Front Strut / Suspension Shopping List

    Make sure you are assembling the bits in the correct order. Use Bilstein's installation instructions and RealOEM as a reference to see what goes first, second, etc. Like you said, Bilstein's front shocks already come with integrated bump stops, so there's no need to use BMW ones there. If I were you, I would purchase everything starting from part number 3 on this diagram and upwards directly from BMW > http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=HD52-EUR-09-1992-E34-BMW-525i&diagId=31_0125 It's a diagram for mine (M50 525i), but pretty sure all the part numbers are exactly the same, and the fitment as well. This is what it should look like when fully assembled: Also you can use Bilstein's parts catalogue to look up exactly which B8 shocks you've got (there are 3 different ones) and see if there's anything in particular you need to know... Here's the catalogue > http://web1.carparts-cat.com/default.aspx?10=4E093FF3C31C4E4CBCA68EA6C3FABA2A018004&14=4&12=100 Hope this helps. P. S. This thread is still in the "Projects" section, can someone please move into "E34"? Thanks.
  3. Need to sell these, if you are interested, PM me your offer - I don't bite
  4. Blackman

    my first e34

    Going by that Pistonheads thread, this E34 is essentially brand-new Well done on the purchase, it looks great!
  5. As I've previously mentioned, unfortunately our modification using green Saab window regulator guides didn't last too long on the rear windows, so I had to source 2 used rear window regulators, complete with motors, to replace mine and just be done with it. Generally speaking, all E34 electric window regulators are the same, both pre and post facelift. However, the later ones don't have the tension spring, which I assume helps to ease the process of the regulator going up/down and also the limit switch/stopper is actually part of the door wiring loom on later cars, rather than a separate short loom with a connector, like it is on older regulators. So if you are fitting pre-facelift regulators to a later car, like I did, then you'll have to remove the wiring loom for the limit switch from the regulator and use the existing loom from your car. If you look at the photos further down below, you'll see what I mean. Here are the 2 regulators that I bought, which are from a pre-facelift car, notice the presence of the tension springs and the wiring looms for the limit switch: The rear window regulators are held on with 3 rivets, which you'll have to drill out, so obviously make sure you have the replacement rivets before you start doing anything. You can also use bolts/nuts, instead of rivets, but then in that case make sure to use nyloc nuts, not just regular ones, as normal nuts may come loose due to the pressure from the regulator. See my original regulator below and the location of the 3 rivets: Before fitting the replacement regulator, it's advisable to renew the white sliding clips (you'll need 2 per regulator, part number: 51321938884) and also apply grease on the regulator tracks/gears. Here's my "new" regulator all fitted up and connected: It's a bit silly that I had to replace complete regulators just because of one broken clip, but I paid only 50 quid for both regulators, so I can't really complain much, can I? See the replaced regulators below along with removed limit switches, as I explained earlier, and our "modified" Saab green clip that unfortunately didn't work... A trivial thing, but had to be done, not that I ever cared whether my rear windows worked or not....Currently don't have any crazy plans for the future. Most likely won't get anything more done this year, because frankly there's nothing mega-urgent that needs doing anyway.... Possibly change oil + filter soon, as it's been a while, renew coolant, check for oil leaks, as it's getting a bit messy underneath sometimes, and probably renew ignition coils, lambda sensor and clean up the AFM. Will keep you updated. Enjoy your holidays.
  6. Blackman

    ACS Type2 set of 5 GENUINE -swaps-

    Not sure if you have considered 17" style 21's, as I've got a non-staggered, refurbed E34 set for sale, and I'm also in SW London, but I would need a sale, not a swap? Thought would ask. Thanks.
  7. This ad is for a set of 4 genuine BMW 17" style 21 "Throwing Stars" alloy wheels with covers/caps and complete with tyres. They are all 8J (non-staggered set), ET20, original fitment for E34 M5 (5x120 and 72.5mm centre bore), part number: 36112226706 The wheels have been fully refurbished, inside-out in OEM factory colour with the wheels being gloss black with a silver lip and silver covers + centre caps. They are all straight wheels with no buckles, cracks or any welds. I would like to mention that the refurb is not 100% perfect in some places, such as a few paint imperfections on the covers and also marks on the inside of the wheels from where they were hanged during the refurb process. However, in my opinion these are only minor issues and do not affect the overall excellent appearance of the wheels. Also please note, the part numbers and BMW markings are no longer visible on the wheels, as these are now covered in paint, but you can read the full spec of the wheels as above. I have also bought brand-new genuine BMW x20 bolts (36112227124) for securing the covers to the wheels as well as genuine BMW badges (part number: 36136758569) for the centre caps. This has now all been installed and the wheels are complete with everything fitted. As you may already know, the "Throwing Stars" covers on these wheels are sided, so here you have a full correct set with 2 left covers (part number: 36112227007) and 2 right covers (part number: 36112227008) and you also get 4 plastic centre caps (part number: 36132227123) The tyres are all in the correct factory fitment size for these wheels, which is 235/45/17. All 4 tyres are matching Continental ContiSportContact5 in immaculate condition with no sidewall damage, no puncture repairs and evenly worn tread with approximately 6mm of tread remaining on all the tyres. These wheels are a direct fitment for all BMW E34 and E31 variants, but I have also seen them fitted to E36, E24 and E28 models, however please check for fitment yourself before buying. I'm based in south-west London and would prefer these to be collected with payment by cash or can be Paypal as well. I could also pack and ship these to you, fully insured, but you'll have to cover the postage of around £95. I'm after £1750 ONO + postage, if you are not collecting. Sensible offers only, please, and if you have any questions, ask below or PM - I'll do my best to help. Thanks for looking.
  8. Blackman

    Tyre pressure.

    For every day driving you will hardly notice the difference between 31 and 36 psi, unless you do 150 mph on the way to work.
  9. Blackman

    '94 540i Touring 6spd - The Money Pit!

    Seeing you are in London, you better put it back on the road sooner rather than later, with ULEZ coming to all London in 2021, we don't have much time left to drive these cars, unfortunately...
  10. As Carl said above, better be safe than sorry, so get it done while you're at it. I got my Pierburg pump from EuroCarParts, which was around 230, including the online discount.
  11. Had my first ever breakdown in any car that I've owned in the last 10 years and was a bit, erhmm, surprised, to say the least.....Well, it was kind of my fault, so can't really blame anyone else. I mean, how long do you expect a fuel pump to work on a 25 year old car and god knows, if it has ever been changed? My only excuse is that this just happened out of nowhere, really....If I would've had any kind of obvious symptoms recently, then I would've known what to expect, but it just randomly died. Have to admit, the car sputtered and cut out on me in traffic few months ago, but then it started right back up and has been fine ever since, so I didn't really think much about that incident....Anyway, lesson learned. Here's my taxi below: Long story short, I'm a bit of an idiot for completely forgetting about the fact that after all the work that I've done on the car, I've missed the fuel pump and should've replaced it loooooong time ago to avoid this silly situation. Luckily, it was a nice sunny afternoon and I was in my local area driving around 20 mph when the car all of a sudden lost power, stopped reacting to the accelerator pedal and gradually came to a halt on a residential road. Tried starting it again, but it would just crank without firing up. I managed to push it away from the road and park it in a bay until a colleague of mine recovered me to a friend's house the next day. A bit of an inconvenience, but I appreciate that it could've been a lot worse, such as cutting out at 70 mph in the outside lane of a motorway at 3am in the morning, on the way to the airport! Touch wood, I always look after my cars well and such things don't normally happen with me, so this incident definitely took me by surprise. IMPORTANT: It's recommended to have 1/4 full tank of fuel or even less, if possible, when replacing the fuel pump, as it will make a lot easier removing the pump since you'll have a clear view of how it's fitted in the tank. The fuel pump on the E34 is located under the carpet, in the boot and there's a black cover held by 5 screws that you have to remove to access the pump. Once you've removed this cover, you'll see the top of the fuel pump assembly, which has a plug connected to it and 2 fuel hoses, as below: To remove the plug, you need to slide the metal bracket away from the connector while simultaneously pulling the plug outwards. As for the fuel hoses, unless you have the special tool for removing/locking those fuel hose clamps, it's advisable to have some replacement BMW jubilee clips/hose clamps (part number: 07129952104) before you start undoing those. Also have some cloths/towels ready, as some fuel will spill out and you don't want to make a mess. Make sure to clean up all the dust and dirt around the assembly, because once you've removed the cap, then it could all go into the fuel tank, which obviously you want to avoid. You'll have to gently tap the black cap with a flat screwdriver and a hammer in an anti-clockwise direction, because there's no way of undoing it by hand. Once you have unscrewed it, you'll have to move the fuel sender part of the assembly out of the way (the white part) and reach into the fuel tank with your hand to unclip the pump assembly from its bracket located in the tank. It is a bit fiddly, but this is the reason why you should have a minimum amount of fuel in the tank, because otherwise you won't be able to see how the pump is held in place or how to remove it. There are basically 2 tabs on the assembly that you push inwards and then pull the pump up from the bracket. See the photos below of the whole assembly removed to get a better idea. Notice those tabs on each side of the fuel pump assembly, which is what you squeeze inwards from the top to release the pump from its bracket in the tank. Also see how all the clips used around on the assembly are special hose clamps. There's no need to replace these, as long as you have the right tool for unlocking/securing them. Remember how everything is connected, so depending on which replacement fuel pump you get, you'll know how to correctly re-connect it all back together. The thinner/smaller stud on the pump is Positive (+) and the larger one is Negative (-). You won't have to worry about replacing the fuel pump filter separately, as usually they come together with replacement fuel pumps, so that's one less thing to worry about. However, if you don't have it, then make sure to get a new one, as it wouldn't make sense to go through all this work and re-use an old filthy filter. Depending on what manufacturer you go for when buying your new fuel pump, you may have to do a bit of extra work and it won't always be a straight swap-over. For example, the pump that was fitted on my car was made by Bosch and in the past, you could simply buy just the pump itself, without any other accessories, and replace it hassle-free. You would have to separate it from the inner housing, but that's about it - see the pics below. Checking the above part number, you can no longer buy this exact Bosch fuel pump, because it has been superseded by a newer unit, which comes complete with a plug on top and a wiring kit, meaning you'll have to mess around with the existing wiring of the pump assembly to crimp in new pins, so then you can push them into the new connector and plug it into the pump......Not the best scenario, but if I was to go with a Bosch replacement, then it would have to be part number 0580314123, as per the photo below: As you can see, it is supplied as a complete assembly with the filter and the inner/outer housing, along with 2 pins and a connector. Like I said earlier, the downside to this is that you'll have to modify the wiring, which I didn't want to do, so I decided to go for an alternative make. For your info, you can get an equivalent pump to the original Bosch one that was fitted on my car, i.e. with the studs on the top, but then it would be an inferior quality make and probably wouldn't last long. Luckily, another OEM alternative to Bosch is a Pierburg pump (part number: 7.21913.50.0) , which actually comes with studs on top, meaning it's just plug and play without any need to modify anything. It was readily available from EuroCarParts, so I got it straightaway and here's how it looks like: When I opened the box, the part number on the actual pump was different from what was on the label, but after checking the part numbers in the Pierburg's parts catalogue, everything matched fine - for your info, 7.21833.51 is an old number (stamped on the pump) and has been replaced by 7.21913.50.0 (on the box). After finally doing all the research and purchasing the right fuel pump, it was just a matter of putting everything back together and starting the car. You will have to re-use the outer part of the pump bracket, which fits over the new inner bracket of the replacement pump. There's only one right way of fitting it, so you can't really get it wrong - just pay attention to how it's installed, when you are removing it from the old pump. Then you'll have to re-connect the wires to their studs (positive/negative) and secure them with washers/nuts. One hose goes on the pump that supplies the fuel into the engine and the other one connects to the outer bracket, which is the return fuel line. Again, pay attention not to confuse them and replace the hose clamps, as required. All done, ready to be fitted: The installation is the reverse of removal, so make sure that the black part of the pump assembly properly clicks into place in the fuel tank, then carefully put the fuel sender back in as well and install the black cap with a few light taps of a flat screwdriver + hammer. Secure the fuel hoses, re-connect the plug and you are done! Started the car, it ran perfectly fine and I haven't had any problems since. Still can't believe that this actually happened to me, considering all the things that I've taken care of, but like I mentioned earlier, totally forgot about the fuel pump. Funny enough, I did replace it as a precaution on my previous car, an E30, but for some reason it slipped past me on the E34. Well, what can you do? Have to say that I've noticed a significant difference of how the car pulls away and gathers speed, so it seems like the old pump did work, but it was definitely weak. It's now a lot more responsive and smoother and there's no hesitation in the lower revs. A happy ending overall. Apart from this, not much happened lately. Still haven't fitted the replacement second-hand rear window regulators that I bought back in August, so that most likely will be the next job, but otherwise if anything else comes up, you'll be first to know. Thanks for reading.
  12. Blackman

    E34 Front Strut / Suspension Shopping List

    Don't waste time with cheap parts and just get the FAG wheel bearing kit from EuroCarParts - with the online discount, it comes up to £81.89 and it's suitable for cars with or without ABS. The FAG manufacturer part number on the box should be: 713 6671 80 SKF is also a good brand, but FAG is readily available from ECP, so I see no reason why not to buy it, instead of shopping around for something else.
  13. Blackman

    Windscreen Replacement

    If you haven't done it before, it's one of those things that is better left to professionals. Windscreens are all the same shape-wise, but you can get them in different colours, like clear or greenish with a blue stripe on top, etc. The mouldings around the windscreens are £180 each, last time I checked, so be careful with them. You will probably need quite a few of the clips (part number: 51318177850) that go around the windscreen to hold these mouldings in place as well. It's important to remove the old adhesive properly and prepare the surface correctly before applying the new windscreen glue. The guy who did mine knew exactly what he was doing and did a top job in the end, although I doubt he'll be able to come to Ireland, if that's where you are based. It was Paul from Glasstec, highly recommended > https://www.glasstecauto.co.uk/
  14. Blackman

    E34 Fuel Pump Replacement (M50B25TU)

    I can get the Pierburg unit for about 170 from Germany (SparePartStore24), but unfortunately I can't sit around waiting for more than a week for it to arrive, as the car is currently on my friend's driveway, taking up space... The same part is £230, including the discount from ECP and I should be able to pick it up on Tuesday, so hopefully fit it on Wednesday and be done with it. Not the ideal scenario, but obviously this was all totally unexpected, especially considering the fact that I've been overhauling the whole car for almost 2 years now, but completely forgot about this stupid pump which I should've replaced long time ago...
  15. Blackman

    E34 Fuel Pump Replacement (M50B25TU)

    Was struggling to find an online parts catalogue for Pierburg to check for compatibility, but managed to find their PDF parts catalogue and searched using their part number for the pump, which is: 7.21913.50.0 Turns out this pump is compatible with all E34 petrol engine models, including the M5. Apart from listing OE part numbers, the catalogue also shows numbers of other parts manufacturers, like Bosch, Delphi, etc, so you can compare this part against other brands. If anyone's interested, it's here > https://www.ms-motorservice.com/fileadmin/media/MAM/PDF_Assets/PIERBURG-Teile-PIERBURG-parts-Pièces-PIERBURG-Piezas-PIERBURG-Componenti-PIERBURG-части-PIERBURG_583131.pdf I know what I'm buying now Pierburg it is!
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