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Blackman

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Blackman last won the day on February 25

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About Blackman

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    London, UK

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    E34 525i SE Manual

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  1. Blackman

    Windscreen Replacement

    If you haven't done it before, it's one of those things that is better left to professionals. Windscreens are all the same shape-wise, but you can get them in different colours, like clear or greenish with a blue stripe on top, etc. The mouldings around the windscreens are £180 each, last time I checked, so be careful with them. You will probably need quite a few of the clips (part number: 51318177850) that go around the windscreen to hold these mouldings in place as well. It's important to remove the old adhesive properly and prepare the surface correctly before applying the new windscreen glue. The guy who did mine knew exactly what he was doing and did a top job in the end, although I doubt he'll be able to come to Ireland, if that's where you are based. It was Paul from Glasstec, highly recommended > https://www.glasstecauto.co.uk/
  2. Blackman

    E34 Fuel Pump Replacement (M50B25TU)

    I can get the Pierburg unit for about 170 from Germany (SparePartStore24), but unfortunately I can't sit around waiting for more than a week for it to arrive, as the car is currently on my friend's driveway, taking up space... The same part is £230, including the discount from ECP and I should be able to pick it up on Tuesday, so hopefully fit it on Wednesday and be done with it. Not the ideal scenario, but obviously this was all totally unexpected, especially considering the fact that I've been overhauling the whole car for almost 2 years now, but completely forgot about this stupid pump which I should've replaced long time ago...
  3. Blackman

    E34 Fuel Pump Replacement (M50B25TU)

    Was struggling to find an online parts catalogue for Pierburg to check for compatibility, but managed to find their PDF parts catalogue and searched using their part number for the pump, which is: 7.21913.50.0 Turns out this pump is compatible with all E34 petrol engine models, including the M5. Apart from listing OE part numbers, the catalogue also shows numbers of other parts manufacturers, like Bosch, Delphi, etc, so you can compare this part against other brands. If anyone's interested, it's here > https://www.ms-motorservice.com/fileadmin/media/MAM/PDF_Assets/PIERBURG-Teile-PIERBURG-parts-Pièces-PIERBURG-Piezas-PIERBURG-Componenti-PIERBURG-части-PIERBURG_583131.pdf I know what I'm buying now Pierburg it is!
  4. Blackman

    E34 Fuel Pump Replacement (M50B25TU)

    Ok, that's good to know, because otherwise I can't seem to find any other differences between the pumps. Alright, I'll check the stocks on Monday and see what's the best option for me. Cheers
  5. Blackman

    E34 Fuel Pump Replacement (M50B25TU)

    Thanks Carl. When I'm checking the part number from the pump that was on the car using Bosch's online parts catalogue, it says the direct replacement is what ECP sells with the new modified plug. I've checked on numerous parts websites and seems like Bosch no longer sells just the pump, as now it comes complete with the filter and the inner/outer mountings, but unfortunately you have to mess around with the plug...Funny thing is, on the their own parts catalogue, Bosch says this is the replacement for the "Pierburg unit"....Go figure. Looking at my existing pump assembly, it looks exactly as what Bosch sells with the exception of the plug area, which I don't have, as instead there are the studs/nuts for the wires. I'm not too keen on re-crimping wires and was thinking of going for the Pierburg pump, but it looks like the outer bracket is missing, and I wasn't sure if my existing bigger outer bracket would fit over the inner mounting already on the Pierburg pump? I'm not 100% sure, but I don't think there's actual technical difference between the pumps, apart from the plug modification and maybe the brackets, which you could possibly swap/re-use with whatever's on the car?
  6. My fuel pump died the other day and we removed the pump, checked it with direct power feed to make sure it was dead and it's not doing anything, so we are 100% sure that's the fault and I need a replacement. Looking at EuroCarParts, I can see there are 2 choices really...One is made by Bosch, which has a modified plug connector on top of the pump, so they provide a "parts kit" for you to crimp the new wire connectors, which then slot into the pump connector using the plastic plug supplied. Seems like a bit of a hassle? Below is the Bosch pump: And you also have one made by Pierburg, which is slightly more expensive, I'm assuming because it has same-as-factory studs on top of the pump, so you just secure your original wires with nuts onto it and job done? No need for any wiring modifications, hence the higher price? See the Pierburg pump pic below: I found a link where the guy used the Bosch pump with wire changes here > http://almostgonesblog.blogspot.com/2010/04/replacing-fuel-pump-on-93-bmw-525i.html And this guy uses the Pierburg pump, which is just a straight swap-over? > http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Maintenance/Engine/FuelPump.htm Are any differences between those pumps or between E34 fuel pumps in general? What I know is that I have a plastic fuel tank and the part number on the Bosch fuel pump that we removed is: 0580453021 Any help appreciated. Thanks.
  7. Blackman

    1989 E34 Headlight issue

    Find the one fitted on your car and there should be a part number on it. Then you can use that part number to order a replacement, if it's not too costly, or repair yours like Five-oh suggested.
  8. Blackman

    E34 Front Strut / Suspension Shopping List

    I went for the Bilstein B12 Pro kit last year, which includes B8 Performance Plus shocks and Eibach springs, which are slightly lower than original, similar to M-tech. You can read my post here > http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/125038-1993-bmw-e34-525i-se-manual-diamantschwarz-metallic-saloon/?do=findComment&comment=1390870 You have pretty much everything covered in your list. For any bolts/nuts, just go directly with genuine BMW items, as the prices are often reasonable and there's no headache of trying to source random bits. Check on RealOEM what you need, then order with your local dealer. Don't forget the bump stops for the shocks and dust covers, depending on what set you go for, you may need them. As for top mounts, just stick to OEM brands, like Sachs, and you'll be fine - I wouldn't bother with no powerflux stuff. Also you won't necessarily need M-tech top mounts, like the ones Carl mentioned...It depends on what shocks you go for, so you'll have to check the part description of the manufacturer to know what top mounts you'll need.
  9. Blackman

    Behr/ Hella water pump

    If you bought it from a good source, like you said, then you should be fine. Obviously, the packaging should be right as well with Hella branding, correct part numbers, etc.
  10. Blackman

    Behr/ Hella water pump

    I don't know why, but the opinions are very mixed for Febi stuff....Possibly due to so many fakes around? Some say it's great quality OEM parts, others say they just package Chinese crap in German boxes. This is the reason why I was a bit hesitant fitting a Febi propshaft centre bearing on my E34, but I guess the time will tell how good/bad it's going to be.
  11. Blackman

    Behr/ Hella water pump

    Good point on parts copies. I learned my lesson a few years ago when I bought "Febi" exhaust mounts for my E30 from Ebay....Thinking they are "OEM" and will last forever, only to find out that they broke less than 1 year later. Nowadays, when I'm buying parts, it's only main dealer, EuroCarParts or Autodoc/SparePartStore24. I'm sure there are good sellers on eBay selling genuine parts, but you've got plenty of choice with the other 3 suppliers, and they are competitive on prices as well, which makes eBay redundant.
  12. Blackman

    Behr/ Hella water pump

    If it's a genuine Hella or Behr unit, then whatever it is, just go for it. These are both OEM manufacturers, so if they make plastic impellers nowadays, then that's the best solution. The stories of plastic impellers breaking could be linked to cheap aftermarket water pumps, which would predictably fail early due to cheap design, materials used or other reasons.
  13. The clutch work has now been officially completed! It all went pretty smoothly, to be honest - nothing unexpected, which was a good thing, but I've purchased whatever parts had to come off, so I was well-prepared for everything. So the first thing to come off was the exhaust, and this time we had to remove it from the exhaust manifold end, rather than from the cat, as otherwise the front section would be in the way when taking the gearbox out. Make sure that you have the 2 gaskets for the catalytic converter and the 6 copper nuts, because the existing ones simply won't be re-usable. With the full exhaust out of the way, now you can remove the centre exhaust heatshield that covers the propshaft and see the condition of the propshaft centre bearing. To replace it, you will need to remove the propshaft, meaning 6 bolts at the gearbox end, where the propshaft flex disc (guibo) is, and 6 nuts at the diff end. With the propshaft out, we've inspected the centre bearing, and I was amazed to see that it was actually genuine BMW - whether it was the original from factory or was possibly replaced some time ago with a genuine BMW part, but it was in pretty decent condition regardless. To remove the centre bearing from the propshaft, you will need to undo the bolt in the middle of the propshaft to separate the two halves, and then the bearing slides out, complete with the mounting. The assembly is the reverse of the removal. Now the gearbox can come out. The top 2 bolts with the nuts that hold the starter motor in place can be a bit of a pain to get to, but with a few extensions, it's a doable job. The starter motor can stay where it is, you just need to slightly push it forward, towards the engine, so it clears the gearbox. And here it was finally on the floor: Had a look at the propshaft guibo and it looked perfect to me - I felt like I was changing all these bits for no reason..It was genuine BMW as well, made by Jurid. Anyway, it's good to replace all these things when doing major work, such as changing the clutch, so you won't have to go in there again in the future. With the gearbox out, now we can see the pressure plate/clutch assembly. The pressure plate is held by 6 allen bolts, but the replacements that I bought from BMW were torx - not a big deal, they fit perfectly fine. I would advise getting new bolts, as the existing ones are not always re-usable and you don't want to be stuck at this point of the job by not having a few bolts that don't cost a fortune. After having inspected the clutch, it was obvious that it was past its best with all kinds of cracks, uneven surface and small chunks missing everywhere. Both the pressure plate and the clutch were genuine BMW, made by LUK, so I'd say this was what the car left the factory with. One thing that I haven't bought was the dual-mass flywheel, but BMW doesn't necessarily recommend replacing these when doing the clutch, so it really depends on the condition and it's up to you, if you do it or not. It's not exactly cheap, but still reasonable - LUK is just over £300 from ECP (with the discount). Mine looked fine, so we decided to leave it. Enough chit-chat, back to work. The new clutch and the pressure plate is now in place - make sure to put the clutch disc the correct way round, it should say on it "Gearbox side", so you know which side goes where. Then we moved onto the gear linkage and the gearbox mountings. All pretty straightforward here - again, I'm sure everything that we've replaced was original BMW from factory, so looks like I was the first one to do such major work on the car. Surprisingly, the linkage bushes and the gear lever was all in good condition - I remember these bits were completely knackered on my E30, when I did the same work on that car. The complete gear linkage, fully assembled with all new bushes and mountings, ready to be fitted on the car: Almost forgot about the slave cylinder - nothing special here, really. I couldn't see any markings on the clutch hose that we removed, so not sure what make it was, but the slave cylinder was made by FTE, which is an OEM supplier, so good stuff. With all the new bits fitted, we began putting everything back into place and here you can see the gearbox already installed with all the mountings and the propshaft connected: We finished off by putting the exhaust back in and here are the gaskets and the nuts that I mentioned in the beginning of this post, saying that you should replace them. As you can see, I've also bought a few exhaust brackets as well. It's basically the bracket that supports the front section of the exhaust, as it's bolted to the rear of the gearbox. The difference in how the car pulls away now and how it used to, is definitely noticeable. The biting point is a lot lower, as the car starts moving when you only slightly release the clutch pedal. Also the clutch pedal itself has become very soft, probably due to the fact that I've got a new slave cylinder as well. It builds up speed with much less effort and obviously there's no more creaking clutch pedal when hot or occasional slipping. Overall, I'm very pleased. Not much left to do on this car to make it mechanically perfect. My "custom-made roller guides" for the rear window regulators didn't last too long, because just the other day I tried to put down the driver's rear window and it kind wobbled, almost collapsed, but luckily I managed to close it. As a result, I have actually purchased 2 second-hand regulators for the rear and going to fit them soon, hopefully then I'll have these rear windows fixed for good. Apart from that, I'd like to get the catalytic converter replaced by Klarius, since mine is making all kinds of funny noises, and most likely get a cat-back Jetex exhaust system as well, unless I can find any other decent make - this seems to be the best one, not sure if I would want to do anything custom-made... Then get a new lambda sensor while I'm there, replace all 6 ignition coils to cure the intermittent idling/hesitation problems, and worst-case scenario, I might need a new AFM as well.....Or I might try cleaning it and see if it helps, instead of having to buy a new one. All these things are not urgent and I'm not in too much of a hurry to get them done. So depending on funds/time available, I'll be sure to update this thread and let you know how it all goes. Thanks for following and all the best.
  14. Blackman

    16" tyre choices

    3 years later still can't choose the tyre size? As some people previously mentioned, an 8.5J rim should ideally have 235/245/255 rubber, so 225 is not the best, as it's the absolute minimum for a rim that wide. Whatever size you go for, the rears should be ok, but if you go too wide for the front (255 might be too much), then the tyres might not clear the struts. As for the profile, if you don't want the "balloon look" on the tyres, then don't go higher than 55, so I would probably say something like 245/45/16.
  15. Blackman

    Insurance Quotes For M5

    I'm going to play the Devil's advocate and say that you should've gotten an insurance quote for the car you were going to buy before actually purchasing it? I don't know why but some cars, even if they are exactly the same model/engine/spec, can differ in insurance premiums, like what you are experiencing now. Not sure why this happens, but obviously they only way to avoid any future problems is to get quotes for your potential new car before buying it.
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