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Blackman

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Blackman last won the day on November 26 2017

Blackman had the most liked content!

About Blackman

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    London, UK

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    E34 525i SE Manual
  1. Updated my stereo with a factory look.

    Nice touch, like you said, it looks factory/90's style, but has all the features of a modern unit - well done
  2. E34 525i Exhaust Options

    I have thought about custom-made exhausts, but didn't think that it would be necessary, as usually there's plenty of choice from different well-known exhaust manufacturers. Infinity Exhausts would be a bit of a distance from London, but I know there's Powerflow Exhausts who also do custom systems, so will need to look into this further.
  3. E34 525i Exhaust Options

    Seems like the mesh inside my catalytic converter has fallen into pieces and now it makes a funny noise at certain revs, when I move off or accelerate in lower gears. I was thinking of replacing the cat with a new Klarius unit and then getting a cat-back stainless steel exhaust system from Jetex? Does this sound like a good combo or Jetex may be a bit too boy-racer? It's decently priced at £450 for a complete kit, excluding the cat obviously. There doesn't seem to be many options when it comes to E34 exhausts, unless you want to pay over £1200 for a Superprint system or £550 just for a Eisenmann backbox? As far as I know, Klarius is a quite good brand, so it should be a good choice for a catalytic converter and it should last at least 4-5 years? So I just need your help re choosing the best cat and then knowing my options for the exhaust system? Thanks
  4. Advice please viewing a E34 M5

    The spacing of the M5 badge on the boot is definitely not right, same as the M5 badge on the front grill, which was only present on the pre-facelift cars with a narrow grill. However, these are trivial things, as obviously there are more important things to look out for. The photos on the ad are very limited for the asking price and if I were you, I would request more detailed photos before actually heading my way to look at the car. However, based on what's available, it does look clean, especially the fact that the underside has been sealed. Most likely it has had a full respray, because just by looking at the under-bonnet photos, it looks too fresh there to be original, so this also means that any rust would've been taken care of before spraying... The MOT history looks pretty much spotless, except for 2015, when it had an advisory for a chip on a windscreen, although the ad says it has never had any fails/advisories, which is not entirely true. However, again I'm being very picky here, because by reading the ad, you can tell the owner knows what he's talking about and it has clearly been well-maintained over the years. I would expect a new genuine BMW windscreen, if I was paying £25k for the car. According to the BMW M Registry, all E34 M5s built after May 1994 had staggered 18" M Parallel alloys from factory, so since this one is a July 1994 build, then possibly the owner changed the original wheels to Throwing stars, which again, is not a big deal at all, assuming they are genuine E34 Throwing stars, and not from an E31 8 series. As for the price, it's difficult to put a price on something which is quite rare on the market, especially in a well-maintained condition such as this one, so if everything is right and it fits your budget, then why not? The price on these will only go up in the future, so you can't really lose out, unless you overpay for a scrap, but as I said, this example looks pretty solid to me from what I gather so far. I'm assuming you have the last 7 of the VIN, so you can look up the factory spec of the car? If not, then let me know and I'll PM it to you. Overall, I'd say it's a clean car, however as others mentioned, for this price it would have to be without any faults or imperfections. If anything needs doing, then you can definitely negotiate on the price.
  5. I recently upgraded to Throwing stars, so my original 15x7 (ET20, 72.5mm centre bore) BBS alloys are for sale, including the spare wheel. Part number for all the wheels is: 36111179774 The tyres are all 225/60/15 - the fronts are about 5-6mm (Marshal Matrac) in excellent condition and the rears are around 3-4mm (Continental ContiPremiumContact 2), which are still ok to use. The spare has an old Pirelli P600, but in good condition (5-6mm) and holds air. I have 4 centre caps and the wheels are 100% straight, balanced and tested - ready to bolt on. Would be looking around £250 ONO and collection from west London. If interested, please PM me. Thanks
  6. Wheels to fit my E34

    Horses for courses, but I wouldn't bother fitting any wheels that weren't originally fitted to an E34 from factory or at least were an option to buy. I know that quite limits the choice, but then in my opinion anything aftermarket or from a different model doesn't look right...That's just me anyway. If you do decide to go for something different, then stick with original sizes/offsets more or less, because spacers and adaptors are a bit too boy-racer, imo. Surely, you can find wheels that look good and bolt on straight? P. S. Like others already mentioned, there are a lot of replicas for style 32, so make sure they are genuine BMW and ideally get part numbers from the wheels, so then you'll know exactly what you're buying.
  7. Wheels to fit my E34

    Check here > http://www.bmwstylewheels.com/5/E34 If you are after Style 32's, they will normally be from an E39 or E38, either will fit, but you will need hub rings for the E39 wheels, since the hub size on the E34 is slightly smaller (72.5mm), so the rings will slightly widen it (to 74.1mm) and help to centre the wheel. E38 hub size is exactly the same as on E34, so it will be a direct fit. Front wheels should be 18x8J (ET20) and the rears 18x9J (ET24 for E39 and ET22 for E38) - either setup will fit fine. Just bear in mind that 18's can be quite hard on suspension, so if you prefer comfort, then it may be wiser to go for 17's, as I personally think it's the best size in terms of looks/comfort/handling.
  8. Seeing this M5, thoughts?

    I would probably wait until a decent 3.8 came along, but this one does look pretty clean....Although, based on the MOT history, looks like it hasn't been driven much (less than 1k miles) or MOT'ed for the past 7 years... Like any other E34, the main thing to look out for would be the rust...Sill panels, front/rear wings, around the fuel flap, bottoms of the doors, the boot lid above the number plate and around the fuel flap area. Apart from that, check the general condition of the car, how the engine runs, electrics, any suspension knocks, brakes/steering and service history/invoices, etc. Usually, you can tell the condition of the car just by looking at its owner, so that's another thing to keep in mind
  9. What to do with my 535?

    If it has no sentimental value to you, then depending on how much work is required to put it right, making it roadworthy with a fresh MOT would probably be the best option, because you could then sell it for decent money. As others said, using it as a donor for an E30 is not the best option, as there are better engines/gearboxes out here... If you want to get rid off it as it is, then try putting it on eBay or in the "Cars" section of the forum and see what kind of interest you get. Simple.
  10. This is now SOLD. Thanks everyone for your interest.
  11. Sword removal

    Found this, not sure if it helps > http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/65075-micro-filter-sword/
  12. Door lock issue

    Like Olly said, most likely it's the door actuator playing up....You can remove it and kind of re-grease it, then put it back, but usually it doesn't cure the problem. The door card will have to come off, so might be worth buying some replacement door card clips, as they can snap quite easily. The actuator goes on the lock, but you can buy it separately from the lock. It's about £100 quid from BMW, but I remember I bought a genuine VDO one for around £50 from eBay. VDO is the manufacturer of these actuators for BMW, so essentially it's what BMW sells, but with a premium on top for having their logo on the part. I'm pretty sure they are all the same on all E34s, so if you are looking for a front one, then the current part number is: 67118353012 And here's the one that I bought on eBay > http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-GENUINE-VDO-406-208-002-003V-CENTRAL-LOCKING-ACTUATOR-BMW-DOOR-SALE/161728788572?epid=1651234083&hash=item25a7c9785c:g:lU4AAOSwv0tVdY-W
  13. E34 door sills

    Ebay is your friend or someone breaking E34s in the parts section of the forum. I'm sure they are still available directly from BMW as well?
  14. Clutch issues

    You posted this in the wrong forum section, so hopefully the mods will move it to the F10 section. I don't have experience with the F10's specifically, but you are supposed to press the clutch all the way on any car to change gears, so that's normal - not fully depressing the clutch before changing gears will not do any good to your gearbox in the long run. I doubt if you had the temperature warning light just once that it could've caused any serious damage. If the car drives ok now, then it's nothing to worry about - it can happen, depending on how you use the clutch, especially on modern BMWs. As for the DMF, you don't normally change it when doing the clutch, but again it very much depends on individual circumstances and the current state of your flywheel. If the clutch is changed when it's heavily overdue, then a lot of times it causes damage to the flywheel, so then you need to get that replaced as well. Also I'm not 100% sure, but on some models BMW recommends changing the flywheel when you are doing the clutch regardless of its condition, so that's another thing to keep in mind. With regards to costs, EuroCarParts should sell them and depending on the engine, they will be around £500 (including discount), which you might think is pricy, but then F10's are not exactly cheap to maintain or any newish BMW for that matter. As far as I know, there's no warning for a clutch replacement, but you can check for few things yourself to know if the clutch is on its way out. 1. After the engine has warmed up, does the car judder when you're slowly moving off in the 1st gear or reversing? Also check how high is the biting point of the clutch, i.e. when the car starts moving, as you are releasing the clutch pedal. 2. After a long drive, is there clicking in the clutch pedal, as you press and release it? 3. Does the clutch "slip" when you are accelerating fast, i.e. engine revving up when you are in gear, but the car doesn't build up speed? If you are not sure re the above, then just take it to a local garage and ask them to check for clutch wear. Happy New Year
  15. This is still available, if anyone wants the whole lot. Thanks Happy new year.
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