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  1. 535d Exhaust Flexi Replacement

    Thanks Gonzo, that is is great!
  2. 535d Exhaust Flexi Replacement

    Thanks Jason, now I just need to obtain a copy of ISTAD D... I really hated the 50 page guide to set up DIS on a virtual machine etc etc
  3. 535d Exhaust Flexi Replacement

    That sounds good! Does it work with the same cable as DIS do you know?
  4. 535d Exhaust Flexi Replacement

    Thanks Jason. Is that easier to install and use than DIS?
  5. 535d Exhaust Flexi Replacement

    What software is that, that you are using to read the back pressure please?
  6. MAP Sensor

    Good afternoon, Please could i have a price for an MAP sensor, Part Nr 13627792260 Car is a E60 535d LCi Many thanks Wayne
  7. Service Parts

    Many thanks for this. I have just paid as gift using PP. Thanks again for good service.
  8. Service Parts

    Hi, Car is a BMW 535d E60 LCi (2008) GU57 XYK Please could you quote me for Oil filter Air filter Pollen Filters (x2 nr) Fuel Filter inc delivery. Many thanks Wayne
  9. Forge Boost Hose

    Thats what i would hope but the original one has the plastic end on the I/C and the metal end on the turbo. I will perhaps ring them to confirm...
  10. Forge Boost Hose

    Nice one, thanks !! I presume the metal end attaches to the compressor side and the jubilee clamps to the I/C.
  11. E60 530D...Pre 2K lag, any ideas?

    I see. I put new OEM seals in my turbo charge pipe (red one) but this did not cure my problem and i still got a film of oil on the outisde of the pipe after a short while. I have had numerous issues mostly relating to the bloody vacuum system but have sorted these now. The last thing i did was to remove the boost pipe and clean it - there was no oil on the top side but there was on the underside meaning i was still losing turbo pressure, So i applied a liberal coating of silicone grease to the seals at each end and the connections at the tubo and ic and reattached. Now, my car has no lag and boosts like it used to, with good pick up when push the throttle and also increased fuel economy. That was all i did - silicone grease! There is a note on a section in TIS that refers to using an 'anti friction' paste when replacing these pipes. I am not saying that this will fix your problem but might be worth a try and is easy and not expensive.
  12. E60 530D...Pre 2K lag, any ideas?

    Having a small amount of oil in them is normal to my knowledge - do you have oil on the outside of any of them, indicating a boost leak due to poor sealing to the turbo compressor outlet.
  13. E60 530D...Pre 2K lag, any ideas?

    Does your red boost pipe have oil residue on it?
  14. Not sure why I'm getting the DPF error

    I would agree that it will have come to the end of its useful life. Even with good regens they eventaully fill up with ash that isnt removed by a regen. If you dont want to go down the route of rip out and remap whch is frowned upon and i think is now illegal? there are machines that can flush them out 99% clean. I have had mine done - cost about £400. They take the filter out and put it on a dpf flash cleaning machine specifically designed for the task and blast it out with high pressure/high volume of water and cleaning agent. Then it dries it all out and it is re-fitted. Mine took approx 3 hrs i think. That was done 6 months ago and it has been good since! I used these guys: http://www.dpfcleaned.co.uk/?gclid=CNfUmf_XzNQCFQjgGwodHwMMJQ
  15. Loss of power

    I would like to just say that i have had a similar problem for weeks and after much testing and pulling things about etc I think I have resolved it and can report as follows; BMW 535D LCi 2008 Symptoms - Low end loss of power and responsiveness Engine note not as nice and smooth as normal (even for a diesel) Spool down noise from engine compartment (from turbos) when exceeding 2000 rpm but going away after I took it to a specialist who ran diagnostics on it but 'coulndt find anything wrong with it' but did say i needed to have my swirl flaps removed. In doing this they found a split in the EGR vacuum line so replaced this. This did help but not that much and the above symptoms remained. The loss of power/resopnse and spool down sound varied from day to day leaving me a bit baffled. I took all of the boost pipework off starting at the big turbo to look for splits/cracks/leaks or worn seals - all OK aprat from the plastic adpator that connects into the large turbo compressor side see image - item 7 This was not seated into the turbo properly and was being pulled out at an angle by the securing srew to attaches the pipework to the vacuum pump front top left of engine. A small amount of oil/air mix was escaping from here and forming on the red boost hose making it look like a boost leak. I resolved this and adjusted the maounting bracket so that it was seated nice and square. Thanks to Jake13 for the advice on using brake cleaner to soften the rubber grommet (item 7) to make it seal nicely. This did not fix the problem either but I was glad to find it before it got worse and gave me further issues. Next was to test all vac lines around turbos and EGR. EGR was working well and opened and closed smoothly with consistent vacuum pressure readings using a hand vac and gauge. Next was the vac hoses - these had all been replaced by an indy not long ago and after carefully removing and testing all appeared good. I was convinced the spool down noise was the issue and whatever stopped that would likely solve my problem. So, in desperation I removed the vac line to the large vac box that controls the turbine control valve, blocked the ends of open vac pipes/connectors and started the engine. Revved it up and low and behold, NO spool down noise. I introduced my vac pump/gauage into the pipework and ran her up and watched the gauge through the windscreen - it was all over the place, fluctuating up and down which i thought didnt seem right. So, out comes the wallet (again). I replaced the pressure converter - Item 1 at the lef tof the picture. I think this image shows the original design of PC but they were revised along with a new mounting bracket so if you are still on your originals you would probably be best replacing all for the new ones and new bracket. After replacing this the problem was better but was not back to how it should be quite. There is another vac line that t's off from the supply from the reservoir (item 9) and feeds vac to a little PC (item 4) that opens and closes a flap on the air side. Ordered a new PC (item 4), fitted it on Saturday morning just gone and ever since she seems to sound much niver and smoother and now goes like a mad twat again and has put a smile back on my face so I am well pleased!! Total amount of money spent was approx £100 - £75 on the larger PC and £25 on the smaller one. I apologise that the above is a short story but I hope that it may help you or anyone else experiencing similar problems. Thanks Wayne