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  1. Hi, Please could I have a price for a single pressure converter - part nr. 11658509323 Car is a 535D M Sport LCI - GU57XYK I had them all replaced by an indy approx 1 year ago or so and I believe them to be the new type with the round cover on the end. The bracket is for the new type so it is just the PC that i require. Also, just in case, how much is a length of blue vacuum hose - part nr. 11657796879 Many thanks Wayne
  2. Hi aa86, can you confirm what the egr pressure valve is please? I am having similar issues and would like to check this on mine. Thanks Wayne
  3. Hi Jake, I am half way through this guide and all ok so far. Tried it on a Windows 8 laptop but it came up with an error when running DIS and INPA on the VMware software. I now have a Windows 7 Laptop (wifes) and have got it to work so far but need to test it in my car. I hope finish the setup and run it this week if time allows. As soon as I can I will confirm my back pressures - is there a particular way to do this or does DIS walk you through it? I am new to this diagnostic stuff so apologise for any daft questions.. Interestingly, my issue seems to have improved a little making me think even more that it is a partially seized or stiff valve - probably waste gate.
  4. Jason, thanks for confirming this - mine does the same.
  5. Quick update, Problem has been improving the last couple of days - since i vac tested the actuator cans. Spooling noise is getting less and less and permformance is coming back more and more. I am now suspecting waste gate - mainly as I can see how this would soot up when my car was running poorly with a blocked DPF etc - maybe i freed it up with the vacuum hand pump and it is slowly working itself back to life?! Jake - I am working on getting DIS etc upa nd running but am struggling for spare time at the moment - As soon as I can, I will get my back pressure readings uploaded. What sould they be?
  6. I dont think the removal of it on this particular car is actually that bad a job and if you have the ability and time to remove it yourself you can send it for cleaning to the guy i used and he would clean it for around £100. I think this is an excellent option especially when faced, like i was, with a bill for circa £2000 for a new DPF (approx £1500) from BMW and then labour costs. This made £390 seem a bargain! DPF's are a consumable part and are recognised as needing to be replaced at some point in the lifespan of the car. I was not aware of this fully when i bought mine and have been on a steep learning curve since! Even with regular re-generation these things WILL still block as the regen burns the soot and turns it to ash which is not removable by regen or any foam cleaners etc. I did extensive research and found someone with a DPF 'Flash Cleaner' after many hours reading about additives, Halfords and there £90 foam injection CRAP, Regeneration in its various guises etc etc. I went for the Flash cleaning as the processes involved sounded like they would work - water and chemicals forced trough it in large volumes at 10bar pressure - the soot and ash and anything else has nowhere to go except OUT! I watched them do mine and it was impressive! I will let you know how i go but apparently i should be good now for another 70-90k miles - which will see me and the next owner through i would think. These DPFs have a lifespan of around 100k miles depending on journey type etc and whether you have had any other engine related issues that cause bad combustion like vac hose leaks meaning poor operation of turbo or EGR, thermostat failure causing low engine running temps - these will contribute fairly well to clogging the DPF. Also, i am not sure if this applies to BMW but i think some regeneration - specifically the forced type by using diagnostic software, causes the DPF to get VERY hot meaning your turbos and oil will also get very hot. I understand that this type of regen requires an oil change afterwards as it bakes the oil and this can ruin your turbo bearings if not changed straight after. This was a risk i was not willing to take! A good spirited drive/italian tune up every now and then does them wonders. Keep the DPF IMO. Its not just visual checks - i think it can show up not being there on the emissions test. I know some people cut them open, hack the guts out and weld them back up so that they look like they are all there and fully functioning which passes a visual check but cant see how it would pass an emissions check? Unless you have ECU replaced with a VW one or something My advice is check your coolant temp - should be 90-94C ideally but late 80s should be ok Check your vacuum lines for leaks Check your red boost hose for leaks and oil fouling on it - ithink this is a common issue. Change oil every 10k miles max - this 20k oil change is bollocks IMO. Use the best oil you can afford. I use Mobil 1 ESP. Generally, try to keep it running clean and efficient and pre-empt any maintenance issues and the DPF will last longer. This is my experience, sorry for dribbling on so long.. Hope the above helps
  7. Forgot to mention, There is a small bracket under there that is bolted to the DPF and attaches to the gearbox I think, only 3 bolts if i remeber correctly. And there is a small metal shield over the steering column rod connection Both are easy to remove.
  8. Hi, I think that new laws that have either been introduced or are going through currently will make removal of this component an offence. I know of people who have been pulled over by plod and had an on the spot emissions test carried out and thne fined as they had removed the DPF or Cat in one case. I have considered this myself until i found someone with a machine that can clean these things to within 98% of the original condition - it removes soot and ash - ash is normally not shifted during regens and will build up over time eventually blocking your dpf. Cost of this for me on my E60 535d was £390 inc VAT. I can put details here of the machine and the company that did the work if needed. This was to remove the DPF, pressure test it, clean and dry it, re-test to ensure all good, re-fit and run diagnostic and clear codes stored in car. In my opinion this is an excellent option as opposed to removal/gutting. Also, I have carried out works myself in this area and can tell you that removing the turbos and exhaust manifold is a bar steward of a job and not one to be taken lightly. THe DPF will, fairly easily come out from underneath. You will need to remove the senor cables from it. There is a steel band with spring loaded bolt that clamps the DPF to the large turbo and this can be fiddly to get your arms down there to get to but is doable. Then, from under the car, jack it up nice and high, remove the forward and mid under panels (lots of screws and bolts) Remove the thick aluminium plate/tray - go careful with the bolts as the panel clips can go brittlw and easilt break and some are mounted blind in the sub frame and cannot be accessed frrom behind Un-clamp DPF from exhaust pipe (i removed the rubber mount mid way down the car to do this as it gave me just enough wiggle room to free it up. Next you need to undo the little pinch bolt on the steering rad pinion arm thing - there is a metal rib/tab on this for relocation so dont worry - you will be unlikey to have your steering wheel facing the passenger side whilst wheels facing forward once finished! The steering rod is telecopic and pushes up out of the way. You will now need to get a piece of wood and a trolley jack and lift the engine slightly upwards to give you room to get it out from underneath. It will be a tight fit - note - the DPF is HEAVY - dont drop it on your face... Job done - sounds easy - its not toot bad a job in ther grand scheme of things. Hope that helps.
  9. Could this breather pipe #5 be blocked? I wonder if i will ever solve this problem Do you know what the greyed out #8 and #18 are? I have recently put a new breather filter on the car - the old one was ok as it is the vortex type and not the one with a filter in which i know cause issues on previous models. The pipe from that, that runs along the top of the engine was also clear. What should i be looking for on the compressor byplass valve - ease of movement, that it spins etc.. any damage to the o ring seal, anything else? If i remove this piece of pipe work and actuator all in one, will i be able to get to the waste gate actuator to move this do you think? I am sorry for all the questions - just want to know if there are any little tricks or things to look out for etc when fiddling around in there.
  10. OK, worth a shout, these was a lot of shite in the egr/inlet etc so thought maybe this could be a problem. I will investigate and see if that rubber seal is hard. Should the air box with the mainair filter in it, get warm after a drive? Sorry if that is a dumb question.
  11. Just a thought, but there appears to be a filtered pipe here on this image i have ringed in blue. (I am clutching at straws here - can you tell?! ) I am wondering if this is blocked and casuing my issue? I had previsouly a split vac hose under the inlet manifold that casued the egr to fill up with crud and the inlet maniflold also. I had this fixed by my regular indy and had the swirl flpas blocked off at the same time. And, i noticed a leak somewhere near the red boost/charge hose that left oily crud on the intercooler, all over the outside of the pipe and on the plastic in and around the intercooler (which had a small amount of oil in it (like a half teaspoon). Could this oil and crud have got into this pipe and blocked it? I notice my air box gets warm and am not sure if this is normal either. I will strip the rad fan, air box intercooler etc out of the car next chance i get and check this and while i am there i will see if i can remove or just check the compressor byplass valve and plate. This shoudl be fairly easy to get to once all the other aforementioned gubbins are out of the way. Any thoughts or expreicence on this bit of ductwork would be most helpful Thanks
  12. Jason - thanks for confirming that. I couldnt for the life of me post on here from home last night - just kept hanging and freezing. Anyway, decided to unplug my MAF half way home - car seemed to run better without it so left it off. Started it this morning and CEL came on as expected and it drove like sh%t on a cold engine so plugged it back in - dont think its that - not sure. Tried giving it some last night on my way home (MAF plugged in as normal) and it goes fairly well but once at higher speeds it loses its oomph. I dont think its a major problem wrong with it but obviously this feint siren noise that sounds like the eithre the turbine or compressor decreasing in rpms - this is not a whine or whistle or a high pitched noise. If driving and holding at say 2000rpm it can sometimes (it is intermittent) be heard constantly, however it is not very loud. I am working on getting DIS etc up and running and will update once if i am successful. Thanks for the guide Jake, that is really helpful. I appreciate your efforts. I will continue to test different things and i will test the vac lines etc on the inlet manifold side when i change the plugs and relay - i have a fault on plug 5 on the relay. Thanks
  13. Thanks Phil.
  14. Thanks Phil. Money sent with note re delivery address.
  15. Thanks Jake, Your links to all that info are superb and make me realise what a complex system this is. At the moment i dont know if i will ever solve it!