waynesmith880

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  1. Thats what i would hope but the original one has the plastic end on the I/C and the metal end on the turbo. I will perhaps ring them to confirm...
  2. Nice one, thanks !! I presume the metal end attaches to the compressor side and the jubilee clamps to the I/C.
  3. I see. I put new OEM seals in my turbo charge pipe (red one) but this did not cure my problem and i still got a film of oil on the outisde of the pipe after a short while. I have had numerous issues mostly relating to the bloody vacuum system but have sorted these now. The last thing i did was to remove the boost pipe and clean it - there was no oil on the top side but there was on the underside meaning i was still losing turbo pressure, So i applied a liberal coating of silicone grease to the seals at each end and the connections at the tubo and ic and reattached. Now, my car has no lag and boosts like it used to, with good pick up when push the throttle and also increased fuel economy. That was all i did - silicone grease! There is a note on a section in TIS that refers to using an 'anti friction' paste when replacing these pipes. I am not saying that this will fix your problem but might be worth a try and is easy and not expensive.
  4. Having a small amount of oil in them is normal to my knowledge - do you have oil on the outside of any of them, indicating a boost leak due to poor sealing to the turbo compressor outlet.
  5. Does your red boost pipe have oil residue on it?
  6. I would agree that it will have come to the end of its useful life. Even with good regens they eventaully fill up with ash that isnt removed by a regen. If you dont want to go down the route of rip out and remap whch is frowned upon and i think is now illegal? there are machines that can flush them out 99% clean. I have had mine done - cost about £400. They take the filter out and put it on a dpf flash cleaning machine specifically designed for the task and blast it out with high pressure/high volume of water and cleaning agent. Then it dries it all out and it is re-fitted. Mine took approx 3 hrs i think. That was done 6 months ago and it has been good since! I used these guys: http://www.dpfcleaned.co.uk/?gclid=CNfUmf_XzNQCFQjgGwodHwMMJQ
  7. I would like to just say that i have had a similar problem for weeks and after much testing and pulling things about etc I think I have resolved it and can report as follows; BMW 535D LCi 2008 Symptoms - Low end loss of power and responsiveness Engine note not as nice and smooth as normal (even for a diesel) Spool down noise from engine compartment (from turbos) when exceeding 2000 rpm but going away after I took it to a specialist who ran diagnostics on it but 'coulndt find anything wrong with it' but did say i needed to have my swirl flaps removed. In doing this they found a split in the EGR vacuum line so replaced this. This did help but not that much and the above symptoms remained. The loss of power/resopnse and spool down sound varied from day to day leaving me a bit baffled. I took all of the boost pipework off starting at the big turbo to look for splits/cracks/leaks or worn seals - all OK aprat from the plastic adpator that connects into the large turbo compressor side see image - item 7 This was not seated into the turbo properly and was being pulled out at an angle by the securing srew to attaches the pipework to the vacuum pump front top left of engine. A small amount of oil/air mix was escaping from here and forming on the red boost hose making it look like a boost leak. I resolved this and adjusted the maounting bracket so that it was seated nice and square. Thanks to Jake13 for the advice on using brake cleaner to soften the rubber grommet (item 7) to make it seal nicely. This did not fix the problem either but I was glad to find it before it got worse and gave me further issues. Next was to test all vac lines around turbos and EGR. EGR was working well and opened and closed smoothly with consistent vacuum pressure readings using a hand vac and gauge. Next was the vac hoses - these had all been replaced by an indy not long ago and after carefully removing and testing all appeared good. I was convinced the spool down noise was the issue and whatever stopped that would likely solve my problem. So, in desperation I removed the vac line to the large vac box that controls the turbine control valve, blocked the ends of open vac pipes/connectors and started the engine. Revved it up and low and behold, NO spool down noise. I introduced my vac pump/gauage into the pipework and ran her up and watched the gauge through the windscreen - it was all over the place, fluctuating up and down which i thought didnt seem right. So, out comes the wallet (again). I replaced the pressure converter - Item 1 at the lef tof the picture. I think this image shows the original design of PC but they were revised along with a new mounting bracket so if you are still on your originals you would probably be best replacing all for the new ones and new bracket. After replacing this the problem was better but was not back to how it should be quite. There is another vac line that t's off from the supply from the reservoir (item 9) and feeds vac to a little PC (item 4) that opens and closes a flap on the air side. Ordered a new PC (item 4), fitted it on Saturday morning just gone and ever since she seems to sound much niver and smoother and now goes like a mad twat again and has put a smile back on my face so I am well pleased!! Total amount of money spent was approx £100 - £75 on the larger PC and £25 on the smaller one. I apologise that the above is a short story but I hope that it may help you or anyone else experiencing similar problems. Thanks Wayne
  8. Nice one Jake.
  9. Thanks Alex, All paid for now. Kind regards Wayne
  10. Hi, Are these costs still valid please, if so I will pay for them today. Kind regards Wayne
  11. Hi, Please could I have a price for a single pressure converter - part nr. 11658509323 Car is a 535D M Sport LCI - GU57XYK I had them all replaced by an indy approx 1 year ago or so and I believe them to be the new type with the round cover on the end. The bracket is for the new type so it is just the PC that i require. Also, just in case, how much is a length of blue vacuum hose - part nr. 11657796879 Many thanks Wayne
  12. Hi aa86, can you confirm what the egr pressure valve is please? I am having similar issues and would like to check this on mine. Thanks Wayne
  13. Hi Jake, I am half way through this guide and all ok so far. Tried it on a Windows 8 laptop but it came up with an error when running DIS and INPA on the VMware software. I now have a Windows 7 Laptop (wifes) and have got it to work so far but need to test it in my car. I hope finish the setup and run it this week if time allows. As soon as I can I will confirm my back pressures - is there a particular way to do this or does DIS walk you through it? I am new to this diagnostic stuff so apologise for any daft questions.. Interestingly, my issue seems to have improved a little making me think even more that it is a partially seized or stiff valve - probably waste gate.
  14. Jason, thanks for confirming this - mine does the same.
  15. Quick update, Problem has been improving the last couple of days - since i vac tested the actuator cans. Spooling noise is getting less and less and permformance is coming back more and more. I am now suspecting waste gate - mainly as I can see how this would soot up when my car was running poorly with a blocked DPF etc - maybe i freed it up with the vacuum hand pump and it is slowly working itself back to life?! Jake - I am working on getting DIS etc upa nd running but am struggling for spare time at the moment - As soon as I can, I will get my back pressure readings uploaded. What sould they be?