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About NuckingFuts

  • Rank
    Rambling musings from the voices in my head...
  • Birthday

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Behind You...
  • Interests
    Most stuff, just ask.
  • Occupation
    Packet Core Design Engineer


  • Garage
    E30 325i Turbo, E39 530d Sport Touring

Recent Profile Visitors

267 profile views
  1. Sky insurance £600 fully compd up to 400bhp for my e30 turbo. E39 530D Touring was £300 on classic with Footman James. The day they changed their policy on the amount of years to determine whether it could be a classic or modern classic. Full NCB, no points. 28 in West London. Made a claim on the 39 this year because a motorbike decided he wanted to weave through standstill traffic at the expense of my front bumper. Waiting for insurance to determine who's at fault. Hoping I can keep my NCB even though these days it means bugger all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Which Superhub do you have? some of the newer ones have 2 frequency bands (2.4Ghz and 5Ghz). On looking for wifi services to connect to they should look like - VMxxxxxx - 2G or VMxxxxxx - 5G. do you see both of those? some older devices won't connect to the 5G band, as they're not equipped to deal with it, and you may need to enable the settings in your VM superhub. Out of the ox they should be enabled, unless you had the VM engineer set it up, in which case they might have been presumptuous and only enabled 5G. Deepan.
  3. iPhones already have Siri that can navigate using 3rd party apps as well as it's own. If you're parked, engine off and handbrake up, not in traffic but at home for example or at a parking space then there isn't a charge. The contravention only applies if the driver holds said "Internet device" while driving or in traffic. If you have a passenger, as you know, then as long as they do the alterations to navigation then you're fine. If you're alone, find a safe place to park and then make necessary changes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. @bigk
  5. Tried ECP but they don't list the parts on their website. Found these... when i called them, they said they have them in stock but take 2-4 business days to come, so by the end of next week.
  6. Gents, Amazon have a few sets of the wheel hub pairs for the front, and as above they are Number 5 on the RealOEM page, and i was hoping someone might be able to (1) tell me if changing that might help to solve the problem, and (2) if the amazon ones are of a good quality or just look for the FAG ones only. FAG: Amazon linky link £180 for the pair Non-FAG: Link £108 Preferred eBay Pair: Link £63 Cheers! Deepan
  7. Can get pics etc in the morning. Full kit. After £200 collected or shipping at buyers cost. It's off a breaker, I was assured it was all working when it came off, been sitting here since December. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. BC Racing do decent coilovers without breaking the bank. Bilstein or Eibach are some of the best spring/dampner companies there are and I'd be surprised if the former didn't have a kit for the E39. I would assume that the rear would be the same as the saloon, but that's just as assumption. I have a full rear self levelling kit here that I bought but thought otherwise of installing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. @M5 London Thanks for this comprehensive list. I have a body-shop that is absolutely awesome for panel work, but not one I'd recommend for mechanical work. I'd like to get as much done myself as possible, without the need for specialist tools. I'm in west london, by Heathrow, do you have any places you'd recommend for work, especially for Vanos rebuilds? I think circa £10k sounds like a reasonable amount. i'd have to save for a little longer but not impossible, also gives me time to look for the right car. Thanks Deepan.
  10. So any flavour of windows, but must be windows? Great, i will order the usb eventually, just need to load the OS on to the fresh HDD i've just installed on an old machine. Have you managed to work out any driver discrepancies related to Windows 10 or would XP/7 be the most stable OS to use? Thanks Deepan
  11. 100% agree with making sure the car is fit for purpose and of paramount safety for those inside, but as i've rarely ever sold a car, it's a new arena, buying and selling are directly related, but different in terms of it's all well and good saying what would you expect to be done before you buy a car, but I have to take into consideration, physical limitations, amount of work needed versus realistic expectation of return on investment. yes i could break the car and make more by selling the parts, it being a sport, but with no space and no unit in which to keep things and/or dismantle, that would prove to be a futile endeavour. I have spent close to £1000 on all the rust work bar one area that's only recently developed and missed my eye when going over the car before. I'm looking to book the car in for the airbag recall and inspection 2 once i've had my operation, so close to the end of march, when it's likely to be safe for me to drive again after my operation next week. I can then try and trace the problem with the lock, after replacing the lock and actuator, the visible pin on the door neither goes up nor down, which is the same as before. the rest of the loom works fine, mirrors, windows, tweeter etc. the mystery continues. The door cards were a pain to get off, but it still amazes me that the whole thing is held on by stud pins and one torx screw. The swap of the mirrors was surprisingly simple, and three torx off, mirror out, new one plumbed in, and away you go. although i need to take the passenger door card off again, and swap the box inside the door that the mirror loom connects to as the passenger one doesn't want to fold in and it's very easily folded in/out without any kind of resistance, making me think that maybe the motor or toothed cog on the inside of the motor may be loose or skipping teeth. Won't take it apart just yet, the main priority is to swap the hubs over for the wheels. Would Number 5 on RealOEM be the unit i'm looking for? does this require any specialist tools? aside from spanners/sockets and axle stands and a jack. Has anyone swapped them with one of these shiny ones? or would it be better going for the 'proper' ones? Neither come with the Pinch bolts, so would i be able to use the existing ones? I appreciate everyone's advice and honest feedback, it's a learning curve for me, and hopefully sell a better and safer can than i bought originally. Thanks Deepan
  12. What Operating Systems are compatible with the INPA/Progman or other software on the website? Are any of them Mac / Ubuntu / Linux compatible? Thanks Deepan
  13. would one of these fix the problem of the wrong hubs? Then I would have to see if the wheels fit again, and if not replace the wheels with genuine ones of the right bore size? Thanks. Deepan.
  14. Seeing as you seem to be an expert with this, What size width/diameter should the hub be? and apologies to @jimmy for hijacking the thread.
  15. So Flat on the inside with a tapered/chamfered inside lip? no ridge on the inside of the barrel? I think i have the right wheels but the hubs have been changed on my car. what a pain.