HandyAndy_UK

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HandyAndy_UK last won the day on September 6 2016

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About HandyAndy_UK

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    2007 3.0 525i SE Touring
  1. Today reinstalled XP SP3 on an old lappy, then Jimmy's INPA package and found it works without a problem - unlike when I tried on a W10 lappy. Then recoded my injectors and had a general 'diagnose' of the E61. Having coded the injectors to the marked values I noted when I had them out a week ago, it started on the button and ran smoothly. Just hope it continues like that, but at least I now have a useable INPA, etc package when required. Fitted a pair of those H7 lamps someone mentioned a bit ago in my dips while I was out there... be interesting to see what the difference is.
  2. Only thing similar I once had was what turned out to be a failing universal joint on a Granada propshaft - one of the 4 bearings had failed so while the engine drove the wheels the shaft was out of balance... if I coasted, the wheels drove the engine (in effect) and so the undamaged side of the failed bearing took the thrust, putting the shaft back in balance. The newer propshafts replaced that UJ with a rubber 'doughnut'. So while you could well have a failing within the drive at/near that wheel, the first thing I'd look at would be your handbrake - a loose handbrake has been known to cause a similar clicking - try driving and when the clicking occurs, raise your handbrake one or two clicks, enough to put a little tension on the cable. If the clicking stops, there's your answer... cheap fix too !
  3. Changed tack and reinstalled XP SP3 on an old lappy I had. Then reinstalled Jimmy's software and tested on the E61 N53... all ran perfectly. Seems the best advice I'd give anyone looking at doing their own diagnostics, coding, etc... get an decent old XP lappy and use that. Beats the stress of W10 !! (Yes you can still activate and update XP... but only as far as those updates released up to the EOL date... but if it's only going to be used with your car, why worry?)
  4. It's an oldie but it works... may lessen the effect of a failed stat for some of the oil burning community until they get around to replacment.
  5. During cooler weather you may also want to consider screening off the radiator to a degree by inserting a sheet of cardboard (or similar) between the aircon condensor and the radiator. Not large enough to completely block the radiator obviously, but big enough to obscure maybe 1/3 to 1/2, reducing but not preventing cooling from air movement. Once we get decent daily temperatures again, I'd remove the screening, but monitoring the coolant temperatures will aid you in such choices until you get around to replacing stats. This is achieving the same as the Efficient Dynamics radiator blind, just without the opening when hot (which is pretty rare anyway unless you're thrashing it). Just a thought....
  6. Also check you're not still using Opal Fruits. Like the lad in the video you need to be using the updated Starburst. Opal Fruits aren't really compatible with the later systems
  7. I hope you realise you're now responsible for everyone going out and looking at their wipers! Assuming it's always done this and you've just noticed it, I'd just take the arm off, check for obvious damage/excessive play, etc then cycle the wipers a couple of times with that arm removed and once they're stopped, refit the passenger arm in the position you prefer. Once firmly mounted, cycle the wipers a couple of times again to confirm they both park as you set. If you encounter a problem you're then into exposing the wiper mech and locating whatever is failing/has failed and work from there.
  8. This may be worth a read... https://5series.net/forums/e60-discussion-2/airbag-sgm-fault-93f9-how-fix-129736/
  9. In a manual E61 (such as mine) you press the clutch(and hold) then the start button or it just switches off.
  10. Have a read through my post on this here before you go spending anything :
  11. After a quick hunt, the advice is... drive with your window open so you can clearly hear the sound..... when you do hear it, raise your handbrake one or two clicks. If the sound goes away.... adjust your handbrake. Apparently this is a common sign when the adjuster becomes slack. BTW it's the cable tension you need to adjust, not the handbrake shoes, but personally I'd adjust the shoes then the cable so all is set correctly.
  12. To be fair that could be a good thing.... may point to the axle being under load/weight being a factor. May be shaft endfloat involved... perhaps a failed clip, etc.
  13. In my 57 plate LCi the angeleyes/sidelights are a single holder/reflector module between the two lamp housings. It's a pig to remove and taking the headlamp unit off the car certainly helps. The stock bulb is a 4w BA9S but the unit is 'plastic rivetted' and is designed to be replaced as a whole. Flie down the 'rivetting' and the holder and reflector can be seperated and bulb replaced. I changed mine for 10w bulbs. Looking like no guarantee it'll be the same though just as it's a 57 LCi...
  14. If it were me I'd have it up on the jack and be rotating the wheel by hand to feel for anything such as resistance and hopefully locate the 'click point'. Then remove the wheel and try again without it, gradually narrowing down the noise and inspecting whatever I could get to before spending any dosh unnecessarily.
  15. The idea is the egr is open when cold to allow mixing of unburnt fuel in the exhaust gases back into intake air, but once the engine is up to temperatures, in theory the combustion should be more complete and so the valve closes and directs exhaust gases fully down the exhaust system. However, inefficiently burnt gases will be loaded with particulates that build up anywhere that causes an eddy as the route from cylinder to atmosphere is not a smooth pipe. The dpf will stop a lot of the muck from being exhausted as the old black smoke from diesels of years past, but every unsmooth surface before the dpf will get a good coating. The longer the engine runs with failed stats, the more crud in the exhaust from inefficient burning.