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About JasonH

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    BMW 535d

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  1. JasonH

    Vacuum Hose Replacement

    Silicone on its own has been fine on mine for years. I initially used 3mm ID but 4mm is more sturdy, has a bigger internal area for vacuum flow and fits fine too so I changed mine over to 4mm. To do all the major parts you need something like 11 metres!!
  2. JasonH

    225/45/17 instead of 225/50/17?

    And the speedo is over reading so you'll think you're going the usual speed but you'll get more MPG!
  3. JasonH

    Best brake pads

    I am replacing the rear discs, pads and handbrake shoes. I was trying to get black coated discs, for aesthetics and to minimise corrosion. I'm struggling with this though and EBC have just let me, and my supplier, down by telling me the discs I ordered would be coated black. When they arrived they were uncoated and now EBC are saying my specific discs aren't available coated at all. I've recently replaced the front discs and pads, I went for TRW discs and Delphi pads. In general I've never felt the 535d brakes lacking, they are huge. In fact the problem I used to have was not using the brakes hard enough and the pads glazing over. The TRW discs and Delphi pads probably need a bit more bedding in but they feel average at the moment....and there's tonnes of dust. So braking efficiency along the lines of standard will be fine. Not really trying to upgrade the brakes because that usually comes at a price like poor performance when cold or brake noise.
  4. JasonH

    Best brake pads

    Which brake pads do people recommend these days? On my 535d I've had BMW, Delphi and Bosch pads. All fairly similar in terms of performance. All grind through the disc at an amazing rate. All produced a fair bit of brown dust that stains the wheels. EBC advertise pads with no metal content, I presume that means no brown (rusty) dust, but I've had a bad experience with EBC pads years ago. Has anyone got decent low dust pads fitted?
  5. That's usually the laser in the DVD getting too hot. Just when you need the Nav to get you to the final destination it starts saying insert DVD. Brilliant, did that to me a couple of critical times. I replaced the whole DVD unit but the repair above is a lot cheaper.
  6. JasonH

    DVD sat nav fault

    You'll be fine - just make sure plugs on the lose wiring can't short out on anything. I ran my car for a week with the entire CCC removed. There will be faults logged. But you will only see them with diagnostic equipment.
  7. JasonH

    Glow plugs

    All of them definitely is the controller but the controller can fail and say any number of glow plugs are duff when they're not. So in your case with 5 errors you could have: Just a duff controller 5 duff plugs A duff controller and up to 5 glow plugs dead as well You can check the glow plugs easily when you have access to them. You unplug the glow plug caps (I think you pinch the sides to release them) and measure the resistance to the engine block. Open circuit is a dead plug. Something like 0.5 Ohms to 2 Ohms is a working plug.
  8. JasonH

    2005 E60 520D - Replacing the Alternator

    It's quite likely to be just the brushes, or the regulator complete with brushes. A lot cheaper than a whole alternator.
  9. The mechatronic connector is a known weak point and for an extra £20 can be replaced at the same time as the sump and oil. The bridge seals mostly fail in hot countries but now the E60 and E61's are getting older it's probably worth getting these changed too. In this case a little more cost than just the parts because the mechatronics need to be temporarily removed. £200 is about the right price for the sump and oil.
  10. The 6HP26z means the BMW variant of the 6HP26. As far as servicing goes it doesn't really matter although BMW do use a plastic sump and Landrover use a metal sump. A flush with cleaner could be a big mistake. When you change the oil only about 6 litres come out and the whole gearbox is around 9 litres. So even with multiple flushes some of that cleaner will still be in there and the gearbox is really fussy about the oil. 7 litres should be ample for a change and allow some initial overfill before allowing the excess to drain out.
  11. JasonH

    What did you do to your E60/61 today?

    You are special! Not many people on English speaking forums get to run their 535d at max speed. I don't really know anything about valve float. I'd be surprised because 4800 rpm isn't particularly high compared with petrol engines but your valve springs could be tired. When swirl flaps are ingested (or the screws from swirl flaps) they tend to rattle around the cylinder for a bit leaving lots of imprints. Something else could perhaps have come loose from the throttle valve or even a chunk of carbon from the intake manifold. Not sure a lump of carbon would do that damage or not. I've seen two forum DIY projects and one first-hand rebuilding engines with damage like that (swirl flaps and cambelt failures) where in all three cases after a huge amount of work something else was wrong with the engine, like a suspected bent camshaft, and the engines were never right. For my money I'd try to find a running engine in a donor car and drop that in. The gearboxes usually go first. The aluminium bodywork is expensive to repair. The engines rarely go pop unless oil changes are neglected then the turbos go (usually the 520d's though). Sometimes cam chains let go, even on the 6 cylinders, but in most cases I think you'd find scrap cars with good engines.
  12. JasonH

    What did you do to your E60/61 today?

    I've been on car forums, mostly BMW forums, since they were invented. I've been maintaining BMW's for 15+ years. I've never seen anything like that except when a swirl-flap was ingested, or part of a swirl flap. Even then the valves weren't broken like that.
  13. JasonH

    What did you do to your E60/61 today?

    The engines are usually pretty durable - a second-hand replacement is probably worth considering.
  14. JasonH

    What did you do to your E60/61 today?

    Any idea of the cause?
  15. JasonH

    535d power loss after 3rpm

    The MAF doesn't have a pressure sensor, it does include yet another temperature sensor through. On your car: There's a MAP sensor (Manifold Pressure Sensor) pushed into a grommet in the back of the intake manifold. The DDE has an internal pressure sensor for ambient pressure. There's the exhaust pressure sensor before the DPF. There may be other pressure sensors - I can't remember. That 41AB code has stumped most people for a long time but I recently saw something in the ISTA diagnostics that explained that the exhaust pressure sensor contributed to that specific code. That sensor has a foil wrapped rubber hose going down to the cat. I think the problem is that hose or sensor.