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About JasonH

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    BMW 535d

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  1. 530d erratic revs around 1500k

    The smooth running control codes usually mean just what they say, the car is detecting the engine isn't running as smoothly as it should. It's telling you there is a problem but not what the problem is. A BMW specific fault reader may pick up more fault codes. The challenge you have is that the poor running could have 100 different causes. Air leaks on the intake side, exhaust leaks before the Cat and vacuum leaks are likely culprits.
  2. 530d erratic revs around 1500k

    Do you have an exhaust smell under the bonnet? If so it's likely you have a cracked exhaust manifold. Very common and causes all sorts of poor running problems.
  3. 2 Glow Plug Relay's In Two Years

    Beru have improved the design of these modules. The older ones are very fragile. They really, really dislike voltage spikes so jump starting your car is likely to kill one, especially "new" old stock. I guess if your alternator regulator is on it's last legs you could be seeing some voltage spikes that in turn are zapping the glow plug module. If you've jump started your car recently that is mostly likely the cause though.
  4. 535d Exhaust Flexi Replacement

    They're just a small company near Bristol that normally do metal fabrication. I not sure they'd want lots of jobs like this! However it you are local I'll message you their details.
  5. The old thermostat questions (again)

    I'm just entering a similar dealer issue with our caravan....I know exactly what the problem is and how they need to fix it. They just can't listen, spoken to two "service advisers" now and they just don't register what I'm telling them. It's exactly like the Farside cartoon "What we say to dogs" - best to Google it - the image is copyrighted.
  6. The old thermostat questions (again)

    Brilliant....but nothing I wouldn't expect from a Main Dealer. In my experience, and not only with BMW but a good few makes, the "technicians" in Main Dealers rarely have any common sense or real-world practical experience. In one Main Dealer (not BMW) I had to go into their stock room and show them how to check a car battery they were supplying was fresh enough to be any good....they had loads of duff ones they would have been happy to sell! They'd already supplied me two under 11V that were "brand new".
  7. Vacuum hose? OEM or?

    If you stick with OEM it's rubber and it will perish again. Silicone has much better performance in a hot engine bay. 4mm ID works perfectly. I replaced all mine with 3mm silicone then decided better of it and changed to 4mm ID. To replace every hose under the bonnet takes something like 11 metres on the 535d.
  8. E60 Brake wear sensor question

    You can't reset the brake wear indicator when you change the pads if the existing sensor is part worn. The sensor has two stages, if your pads are worn enough to need changing then you have to change the sensor or you cannot reset the indicator on the idrive.
  9. EGR failure?

    You do need a BMW specific fault code read, without it you'll end up replacing even more than you already have getting to the root cause. You could have a vacuum leak, and intake air leak, a faulty map sensor, a loose connection, cracked exhaust manifold, etc. etc. Some really cheap to fix; some not.
  10. EGR failure?

    If you have glow plug errors (that aren't from before you changed the glow plugs 2 years ago) then the glow plug controller has failed again. If you clear the glow plug errors and there's still a fault the fault is detected on the next engine start. C110 scanner should be good enough to get most fault codes but probably not enough to run the "service" function of replacing the DPF. If you have the scanner have a good look through perhaps it can.
  11. EGR failure?

    The easy one first, lots of glow plug errors usually means a duff glow plug controller, sometimes it causes the plugs to blow but often the plugs themselves are fine. Glow plug controller is around £100 and can be fitted in 30 mins....but it's fiddly. In some cars having glow plug faults might prevent the DPF regeneration starting. Next you need someone with proper diagnostic software to look at the DPF back pressures and DPF regen status. When did the car actually last regenerate and what are the actual DPF back pressures. If the PDF is really blocked it will just keep failing to regenerate, you have to get on a motorway with a passenger continuously clearing the faults as they pop up - this is the official BMW solution. That eventually allows a full DPF regen to complete. Another important factor here is that your car has a hidden DPF life of 250,000km. After that the car will flag a fault code that the DPF is dead. You need BMW diagnostic software to lie to the car to tell it a new DPF has been fitted.
  12. On the faulty glow plugs and the car not regenerating the DPF. There is a lot of conflicting information on the web. There's nothing in the actual BMW documentation that says the car will not regenerate without operational glow plugs...but it does say some fault codes will block DPF regeneration (certainly some components like the throttle value have to be operational to regenerate the DPF). My conclusion, from person definitive evidence is that my car does regenerate without glow plugs, however it seems very likely that some cars don't and I suspect it's something that varies depending on the version of software the car is running (there numerous updates released whilst a car is in production). Finally even if your car is one that won't initiate an "active" regen without glow plugs if you do a nice long motorway run (like 50 miles plus on the motorway) a "passive" regen will naturally occur and that will keep the DPF clean.
  13. ZF 6 speed transmission issues

    You tend to get error codes when the gearbox itself needs repair, when clutches between gears are worn and slipping. You can also get error codes when the gearbox oil is low. If the torque converter lockup clutch slips it rarely generates fault codes.
  14. Gearbox Issues (I think)

    You probably have two things going on: 1) Limp mode, the car power is severely limited because of some fault the car has detected. Lots and lots of potential causes, one bad sensor, a wire off, an air leak etc. You need to get the fault codes read to tell you where to look. 2) A battery and/or alternator problem. Coding the battery to the car is like the icing on the cake and isn't your main problem. Either the new battery is duff - not uncommon if it's been on the shelf too long - or the alternator is struggling. Watch the voltage using the hidden menu (Google it, or look on youtube). Should be seeing a fairly steady number between 14V and 15V when the engine is running (at all times).
  15. If there are no traces of an oil leak then I'd reset the gearbox adaptations. A gearbox oil leak may not drip on the ground but if you put your head under the car the bottom of the undertray will be coated in oil. You can only really see it on a dry day. The gearbox adapts for wear, sometimes it can get this wrong. A reset then some normal driving might well sort this out. You do need someone with special BMW diagnostic software to do the reset.