shiner01

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About shiner01

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday 09/12/1939

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Dorset
  • Occupation
    Retired

Garage

  • Garage
    530d (e39) and VW Passat 1.8T

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  1. I thought that if you check with realoem, and put your VIN number in, then it will show you the parts together with the part number that relate to that vehicle.
  2. Had the same problem when I bought mine nearly 18 months ago now. Found it was due to the fact that the previous owner had removed the under engine cover and the underfloor coating and the radiator cover. I have replaced the engine cover and the radiator cover which has reduced the resonance and noise level quite a lot. But to date I have not done the underfloor cover as this is rather expensive and I have been looking for a secondhand one but to date have not found one.
  3. I have just recently purchased an HID kit from Autobulbs Direct and fitted them to my Passat which has very por lighting the difference is amazing. Took me under an hour to fit both dipped lights, the kit was complete and the result was plug and play. When I get the time I intend to fit a kit to my Beemer as Autobulbs do a complete kit for Beemers, and they do have offers available. I bought the 55 watt set with 5000k bulbs which give a very strong white light.
  4. I have used Opie Oils for a couple of years now and have always found them to be competitively priced and very helpful if you have any doubts or require any information or assistance.
  5. Try this link you may find some help or info here: https://www.google.co.uk/?gws_rd=ssl#q=car+stereo+whistling+noise
  6. I had a similar fault on my VW which has now been fixed by BBA Reman and the module is now working correctly no more warning lights or gongs!! Cost £135 plus carriage. I sent it off on a Tuesday morning using carriage provided by BBa Reman they rang me on the Wednesday to confirm receipt and to inform me of the fault which as on yours was dry solder joints on two gold wires. I received it back on Friday all well packed and boxed. As a matter of interest I only sent in the module and retained the pump on the car which meant that I could continue to use the car. The repair come with a lifetime guarantee as well.
  7. I found that my car had a deep whistle, sort of between a howl and a whistle, and I found that wh3en I switched off the airconditioning the noise went which leads me to presume that it is the pusher fan at the front of the radiator and intercooler because that turns off when AC is off.
  8. When I first got my 530d it was very noisy, sounded like a boy racer's car. I have replaced the under engine panel and the fan cowling which were both missing but still have the under floor coating to do. The panels that I have replaced have reduced the engine noise quite substantially inside the car and I hope that when I manage to get the under floor coating this will further reduce it. Outside I am told that the exhaust sounds quite nice!! My neighbour knows when I am passing by!!
  9. I've been wondering about mine which seemed to be lacking power over the last couple of days and was wondering if the loss of power had affected to auto box which seemed to slipping and the exhaust was much louder than usual. Well I think that summer will end tomorrow or in the next few days hope everything returns to normal in the car. I have recently cleaned the MAF sensor, replaced the oil separator with a new vortex filter and fitted a new air filter and cleaned out the EGR valve and surround.
  10. I've got a CTK charger and I find the best place to charge the battery is by using the the battery points in the engine bay. I did also try the cigarette lighter plug by the centre console but I was not so happy about this as the extension lead that I use is quite thick and gets really compressed when the door is closed on it.I have been using the engine bay as I have had the car off the road whilst doing various things to it, nothing really big though, for the last couple of months and I have the kept the battery on trickle charge.
  11. Not sure myself but perhaps this may help, found this by Googling it. Anyway hope it helps. http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2186848-INPA-clue-DME-or-harness-heat-failure
  12. I thought that I had placed this in the "What have you done to your e39 today" obviously I missed. Anyway some time ago I found that the headrest was not working so I removed the back panel from the seat which I did not find to be that easy as there are no visible connections but once I found it on BMW TIS I was able to disconnect the bottom and slide it off from the top of the seat. That then reveals the headrest restraint unit; I popped out the Headrest from the restraint unit by using a piece of timber as a lever between the underside of the headrest and the top of the seat. This then left the restraint unit free for me to remove. Before removal I disconnected the wiring which just pops off after pressing in the clip. I did test the wiring to ensure that the switch at the other end of the seat was working and it was which meant that the fault was in the motor. The restraint support is quite easy to remove if done correctly and I found the method in BMW TIS. I used a small block of wood which I placed against the unit at the top right hand side and tapped it lightly with a hammer and the unit snapped out to the left with its clips and guide still attached for reinstalling! On inspection I found the motor slightly blackened so I ordered a replacement restraint unit from the USA which took about three weeks to arrive and when it did I removed the motor and replaced it into my unit (Cost of the unit was £18.00). It was then a matter of connecting the unit to the wiring and checking that it worked and it did so then I pushed the whole unit up into the top of the seat but slightly to the left of the headrest rods so that the guide would find the appropriate hole and then I could then push the whole unit to the right and it snapped into place. I then reconnected the headrest with the unit and tested it and low and behold the headrest went up and down!! Replacing the seat back was not so easy as once the top slides into the back of the seat one cannot see the position of the clips at the bottom but after making sure by feel that they were in position to snap into the female clips I was able to knock them in. All in all this must have taken me the best part of 1.5 hours. The most important thing to remember in doing this is that the Guide and support clips for the restraint support unit must not be damaged because if they are then you will need to buy the whole unit which will probably be expensive from BMW. The second hand unit that I purchased was shown as damaged and the clips were missing this was obvious in the photos and the reason for the good price!! Hope this may help someone.
  13. Removed front passenger electric headrest restraint support, as the motor was not working. Replaced the motor and replaced the unit into the back of the seat - eureka it is now working.
  14. Hi 3drstretch. Thanks for your help and your prompt assistance it has been a real pleasure to do business with you. Hope we meet again. Silly me not to realise that it could only be black and anyway it's similar to my VW where the kick panels are black. Anyway you have solved my problem.
  15. Hi 3drstretch. I have now had a closer look at the area and it is out of view therefore I'll have the panel as £13 looks to be a fair price. How do I settle payment with you and delivery details as I have never bought anything on a forum before!