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About DatV8

  • Rank
  • Birthday 10/05/1987

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Liverpool, UK
  • Occupation


  • Garage
    E39 M5, shed Toyota Aygo

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  1. DatV8

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Trying to track down a coolant leak on my M5. Found a great price on a radiator. My waterpump bearing failed and sent metal filings through the system, getting caught in the radiator so was probably a good time to replace this anyway. The lower hose connection seems loose so I'll have a look in to that. Also ordered 10 litres of oil, oil filter and some brake fluid
  2. Anyone on the lookout for a Hella/BEHR E39 M5 radiator, I've just bought one of these. Ebay link Looks like genuine Hella/BEHR and comes up in the BEHR online catalogue. correct measurements etc. Hopefully turns out to be a bargain
  3. Thanks, payment sent and PM sent across to you
  4. Thanks very much. I see that that's the metal sealing ring within the housing. I mean the rubber seal on the actual thermostat is broken up, I assume this isn't replaceable? Thanks
  5. DatV8

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Past few days I've been stripping down my M5 to do valve cover gaskets, replace plenum gaskets and replace the o-rings on the vanos solenoids. Also while I'm here I've removed the thermostat housing to do the lower oil return hoses (otherwise it would have been impossible!) They're the originals and very squishy with the original BMW clamps on them. Going to order a fair few parts and refresh as much as I can. Had to do a bit of soldering repair on one or two places to get one of the solenoids to fire. Cleaned all with brake cleaner and compressed air. All 8 now activate with a nice 'click' both on and off. Replaced o-rings afterwards readyu to put back on the car once valve covers have been replaced. Want to check the cam timing while it's there too.
  6. Thanks, one more thing could you also quote me for a themostat? The rubber seal has seen better days on mine when I remove to get to the lower oil hoses, so looks like it can't be replaced separately. Part number 11537835558 Thanks
  7. Hi, Could you please quote for the following parts and provide a price breakdown of each? Cyl 1-4 valve cover gasket - 11120001269 Cyl 5-8 valve cover gasket - 11120001278 Valve cover screw gasket (x6) - 11121721879 Valve cover screw gasket (x20) - 11121437395 Plenum throttle body flange L + R - 11611406636 / 11611406637 Oil separator hoses top L + R - 11151406952/11151406953 Oil separator hoses lower L + R - 11151407344/11151406902 Oil return hose - 11151406900 Vanos oil line copper crush washer small (x4) - 07119963072 Vanos oil line copper crush washer large (x4) - 07119963129
  8. DatV8

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    I repaired a fairly common E39 trait of broken boot lid loom wires last weekend. One of the wires providing live to the boot release handle/boot light had snapped within the rubber boot/tube due to age and the pinching motion of the boot lid. This meant my central locking wouldn't work with the key, a 'bootlid open' message showed on the dash all the time and I couldn't operate the boot open from the key. I soldered and heat shrunk the broken wire back together, then wrapped up the whole loom in electrical tape to provide a bit of support. All now working and can use my boot/lock the car properly again!
  9. DatV8

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Had a look over my M5 last night ready to bring out for the weekend. Seemed a load of coolant ended up in the undertray at the front after being sat for 4 months. I suspect it's on it's original radiator so maybe time to change that for a new OEM one. I have always had to top up coolant slightly so perhaps it's a pinhole leak somewhere which over time mounts up to a lot of coolant loss.
  10. DatV8

    Trickle / Maintenance Chargers

    You can connect the terminals under the bonnet to the positive terminal on the valve cover, then another to an earth such as a suspension turret bolt. Got mine connected that way and all is well. I read somewhere it's preferred rather than directly to battery so the car/battery can 'detect' it's being charged. Could be wrong mind
  11. DatV8

    Trickle / Maintenance Chargers

    I've got a Ctek MXS 5.0 on my M5 for over the winter months. Has quick connectors etc and can be had for around £70ish. Has been left on for a good few weeks with no problems so far, very happy with it.
  12. Long shot but does anyone have a pair of genuine rear style 65 wheels from an E39 M5? I fancy trying a square set up on my M5 at some point. I'll be refurbing a full set of them so condition not drastically important, just need to be straight with no cracks/bends. Anybody got any fairly local to North West/Merseyside or willing to courier?
  13. DatV8

    Brakes - Disks & Pads

    GSF car parts often have 50-60% off on Zimmerman front discs. If you can use this voucher it's essentially two for the price of one. I put Zimmerman on mine last year and had no problems so far. Zinc coated so keeps the surface rust etc down too. I don't think they stock the rears though. Front discs are expensive being floating style, 300ish for one disc (voucher comes in handy) Pads I just use generic ATE as it's just a road car, stops well enough but probably need better for more spirited braking.
  14. DatV8

    E39 M5 clutch slave cylinder query

    Haven't noticed mine creaking as much after the slave cylinder I must admit. I'll know more after some more cold starts over time and update. They're a pain aren't they! Can't think what it could be that makes the noise. Only thing that I could think was the fingers on the clutch pressure plate creaking. It's such a lot of work having the gearbox in and out we'll just have to live with it sadly does yours do it even when warm?
  15. DatV8

    E39 M5 clutch slave cylinder query

    Ended up replacing the slave cylinder, was much firmer than the tired old one for sure. To bleed I put the new cylinder on and gravity bled for a little while, then pumped the pedal to fill the cylinder while keeping an eye on the reservoir level. Once there was pressure, I kept the clutch pedal held all the way down with a breaker bar against the seat frame and cracked the bleeder on the slave. You could hear the clutch release and push the cylinder back as fluid flowed through. Do this a few times and the fluid ran nice and clear with no air bubbles. I still seem to have the click when cold unfortunately. Determined this must be the pressure plate springs or something when the engine is cold. Disappears when warm, I'll just live with it as the clutch is quite new!