Jump to content

sinner

Members
  • Content count

    77
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1
  • Feedback

    0%

sinner last won the day on January 6

sinner had the most liked content!

About sinner

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday 12/12/1985

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bern
  • Interests
    Cycling, cars and science
  • Occupation
    Science and stuff

Garage

  • Garage
    E39 530d Touring

Recent Profile Visitors

1,919 profile views
  1. sinner

    Restart E39 530d Sport Touring

    A short aside on brakes. I forgot to mention this, but figured you guys might be interested. While I was reconditioning the brakes a few years ago (forgive the low quality pictures), I thought it might be fun to make a set of titanium pistons. No more corrosion, nice and light, and low thermal conductivity. I realise this is completely over the top for a 530d, but I had the resources available and a little time to spare. Also, Ti is real pretty. Last month, I took them out of the old brakes, polished them up and put them into the M5 calipers, where they will spend the rest of their days.
  2. sinner

    Restart E39 530d Sport Touring

    Thank you Dan. I've been enjoying your 730d thread. Yes, just a bit of squealing. It's only really noticeable with the window down, which isn't a lot this time of year. It does have a dab of copper slip. The stuff I had was not great quality, more greasy than coppery, so I didn't want to use too much. I'll try finding something thicker. Power wise, I don't really have a goal. It would be nice to get close to 300; the turbo is certainly not limiting this, but the intercooler and head might. The HP pump and rail need doing before it goes much north of 250, I will get it dynoed after that. The main reason for the hybrid was to make the GT2260V a bit more responsive low down.
  3. sinner

    Restart E39 530d Sport Touring

    Happy new year! It was a bit manic in the run up to Christmas so there are very few pictures, but a lot got done. Brakes and suspension are done front and rear (excuse the couple weeks of surface rust). The front got Bilstein B6 dampers with the Eibach Pro-kit coils, with new top mounts and control arms. I’ve tried to use Lemforder throughout, but had to get a few bits from Febi and TRW. I had a square 8J set of 66s restored for winter wheels: BMW silver with Goodyear UltraGrip Gen-1. Even managed to fit them all in an E63 to get them down to the car. Ride height is much the same, but it’s a lot more controlled and predictable. There is no more knocking from the rear subframe, which is nice. M5 brakes work a treat, they don’t feel ridiculous, just modern. The DS2500 pads are insanely dusty and quite noisy, but they do work really well. As expected, the Quaife has made a huge difference too. These things are awesome. All in all, very happy with how the car is handling now, even on little winter wheels. With all that done, it was time to start the transferring parts over for the engine. I fitted an E60 exhaust manifold, these let the GT2260V sit slightly higher which lets them clear the engine mount. I previously fitted a stainless OE E60 manifold, but it cracked, in multiple places, so went with a cast iron eBay special. That went in with OE gaskets, studs and nuts. The turbo is now a hybrid GT2260V from TDI Turbos in Dorset. Very happy with this. I didn’t want to go front-mount as I like AC at low speeds, so the intercooler and its housing are from an E65. The picture is from the original install on my old SE, but it shows how it fits. I’ve since gotten a new Behr unit as the old one was pretty grotty. I cut out the support out for the original intercooler, and bonded in the lower section of the radiator housing from an E65. The quick-connects are from an E60, best use OE for these as all after-market ones I tried leaked, a lot. Lastly, a set of recondtioned (by bosch) injectors with a set of brass bleed off connectors. The injectors cured the lumpiness at idle, and stopped the thrust bearing catching. Nice and smooth now, especially after a remap from Enda - thank you! Lots of progress, but as with all project cars – fix one problem and a new warning light will appear… This time was ABS, which turned out to be the rear left sensor. However, the traction control light is persisting, coming on after about 30 min of driving. I guess this the ABS unit, so will be looking into getting that reconditioned. One of the drive shafts was also very beaten up by whoever changed a bearing last, luckily I still have a couple from my old car. The vacuum pump is still leaking despite a new seal, this needs investigating as I think it is internal to the pump. The knocking engine mounts will be done when I do the ARBs. And, of course, the 3.5 k RPM cut out still exists. I had hoped this was due to a leaking injector, but is more likely the regulator, it will be dealt with very soon. Until next time
  4. sinner

    Restart E39 530d Sport Touring

    Cheers Rob. Your thread was the inspiration for a lot of this.
  5. sinner

    e39 touring rear spring part numbers.

    Just written this up in my project thread: http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/131077-restart-e39-530d-sport-touring/?tab=comments#comment-1454104 Part numbers for the BMW mounts are there, and the Eibach springs
  6. That is so much easier than internet explorer! Thank you
  7. That's what I use for the e60 stuff, it's good. But, there is a lot of e39 530d fuel system stuff missing. Which is why I am asking. Unless, I am being daft and can't read properly (highly likely).
  8. Anyone know where to find wiring diagrams and pinout for the 530d power train (specifically rail pressure control)? I have them for the E60 onward, but the sites I’ve used for the E39 are no longer functioning. Cheers
  9. sinner

    Restart E39 530d Sport Touring

    Thank you.
  10. sinner

    Restart E39 530d Sport Touring

    Sorry, very few pictures. I was working on my own and flat out in a less than ideal workshop. At least it was dry! Horror stories found were: split boots on all ball joints, a couple of well-hammered bolts needed filing to fit a six-point, the upper control arms had been fitted without the conical spacers that locate in the hub carrier, a rose joint link was in two pieces (no idea how that happened), the off-side rear airbag had nearly worn through, and the ABS sensors were covered with filthy grease. All in all, not too bad considering, but enough to drag the job out. New Parts fitted this time are: Subframe buses Powerflex diff mounts Rose joints and links Drop links Steel E46 M3 ARB mounts (33506779734) Control arms Hub bearings and flanges Pad sensor M5 rear brake conversion Parts transferred from the old car: Goodridge lines Bilstein B6 dampers Eibach Pro kit coil conversion (E2070-140) Spring mounts (2 of each 33531093785, 33531093786, 33531093787) For the brake conversion disc guard needed trimming and welding as the handbrake is orientated 90 degrees off on the M5. The pads and discs are new, the calipers are recondition. I also machined the hub flange to match the mounting bolt holes of the M5 discs (could have just brought M5, but had the normal ones already). If you have access to liquid nitrogen, it makes fitting the flanges into the bearings much easier! Unfortunately, BMW sent one wrong seal for diff, so holding off on putting that in until next time. Also, one handbrake cable is very sticky, so need to free it up or get a new one. I will get some pictures of the brake setup and suspension in a couple of weeks when I do the front end.
  11. sinner

    Restart E39 530d Sport Touring

    Quick update this time. I've taken a few days to get it ready for winter, and fix a few of the problems (all of suspension) I've found. The rear subframe is coming out for new bushes, arms and bearings. Finally gotten around to fitting the manual diff with the Quaife; looking forward to holding the gears a little longer. I'll try to get some more pictures of the other parts tomorrow.
  12. sinner

    Should i convert to manual

    I had exactly this quandary earlier this year; spent a small fortune getting the bodywork sorted then the auto box shat itself (an interesting experience when it started letting go in the outside lane of the M40 on a Friday evening). It's down to what you want ultimately. I can't say manual is better for you than auto. I can say what I found. Auto replacement was 1.5k for a recon box from a reputable expert, sans labour, seemed to be the going rate. The box would have been solid for years, given regular servicing. If the car was a daily, and I had to spend a lot of time in traffic - Auto all the way. However, I prefer manual for the sort driving I do. Standard 5 speed manual conversion costs roughly 1k total for parts, less if you can find a good donor. If you are handy with a spanner it is not such a hard job, ~2 days assuming you have all the parts and space to work. I went 6 speed, because of the extra torque rating and I like a challenge. This was about 1.5k for parts, and a few days of faff to figure out exactly what was needed (lots of misinformation online...). If you are not winding up performance, 5 speed is a whole lot easier. I've tried to document everything here: http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/131077-restart-e39-530d-sport-touring/ If you do decide to go manual, I am happy to give you some advice. Either way, good luck
  13. sinner

    Restart E39 530d Sport Touring

    Thanks. Sorry for the lacking updates, work has taken over. But the car is running well enough. Had an issue with the engine cutting at ~3.5 k first guess was the presupply fuel pump. Swapped out the standard for a Bosch 044. This is very easy: it needs 8 mm barb fittings, the connector needs removing and some crimp-ons fitting, and the foam mount needs trimming back a little. The pump is about 20 mm longer than standard, so the hoses need shortening slightly too. It is not too noisy, and presupply now holds steady at a little over 4 bar. However, the cutting issue remains. Next to investigate are injectors and HP pump. While the plastics were off for the pump, I cleaned up the underside and gave it a healthy dose of Waxoyl. Everywhere. I pulled the rear bumper, and wings off too - cleaned and coated everything I could get at. It’s pretty amazing how little rust there is under there, the jacking points are clear, as are the front of the sills. Was not expecting that after the last few E39s I’ve worked on… With it all back together, it was time for the drive back to Bern; 700 mile to get the feel of the car and figure out everything else that needs doing. I am now used to the clutch, which is very heavy, but also a lot of fun. If it were a daily in traffic, I would have gone for something a bit more sensible. Bar the intermittent AC (F-U FSU!), it did well enough. The auto diff is not great. I hoped 2.81:1 wouldn’t be too far off the 2.35:1, but it is; that drive would have sucked without 6th. I have a manual diff here that will go in as soon as I put the fresh seals in it. There is a very annoying speed-dependent ticking coming from what I think is the fan in the centre dash. The suspension is shot. Driver-side air bag seems to have a leak or at least not level properly, dampers do not dampen, and there is a lot of body roll. There is also a lot of juddering under braking. I knew this needed doing, but had to delay it when the auto box failed. These faults aside, I am actually really pleased with how this project is going.
  14. sinner

    Restart E39 530d Sport Touring

    It has been a busy couple of weeks! The new lines for the turbo and HP pump turned up, and the wiring was complete, so the engine and its new box went back in. Engine mounts looked ok – annoyingly, they are not, but that will have to wait now. I sourced an E60/61 gearbox mount, it sits at the right height and the front four of the six mounting bolts almost line up with the manual mounts. With a slight expansion of the holes (not the webbing) it was in. The rear two holes sit over the step for the auto mounts (auto mounts sit slightly higher in the tunnel ), I am making some adapter plates up to allow the two rear bolts to engage. For now it’s only four of the six bolts holding the box in, but this is not too concerning given the original mounts. The engine had an oil leak from the around vacuum pump. I wasn’t sure if this was the pump seal, or the rocker cover, so I changed both, and was pleasantly surprised how clean the engine was internally. I also changed the rocker cover for a later M57N version, these have additional webbing at the mount points and an extra bolt hole for the later inlet manifolds. With all that back on it was time to refresh the cooling system. I’ve done away with the EGR, so removed the EGR cooling, and swapped it out for the manual pipe work, which looks so much cleaner. While I was there it got a fresh set of belts. Luckily the pulleys all felt fine, as the did the pump. I also fitted a M57N2 inlet manifold, these are slightly larger, and supposedly less prone to splitting. I had it ultrasonicly cleaned by a marine diesel place, turned out much better that I could do with solvents. These manifolds use a different type of 3 bar MAP sensor, 13627792260, which mounts on the top of the manifold. It should be noted that the wiring configuration for this sensor is different to the E39; wire 1 = supply, wire 2 = ground, wire 3 = signal (signal and supply are inverse on the E39). With that lot done, I took it to Enda to get everything coded in correctly. Cruise control now works in 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th! Reverse lights and PDC work (They did not initially, which turned out to be my inability to count pin numbers…). I went with the weighted E46 knob, 25117896886, combined with the E60/61 short shift, 25117546373, which feels great. Clutch is unsurprisingly heavy and loud.
  15. sinner

    Restart E39 530d Sport Touring

    Thank you guys. It's turning into a fun build. Yes, that is Gareth from Car Throttle. Got the prop back today, shortened, balanced, with a fresh centre bearing and CV. Dave Mac Propshafts in Coventry do good work. The engine is still not in, as I am waiting on the gaskets for the turbos still. It is possible to do this with the engine in, but it is also a faff, so I have used the time to fix a few other things. Kick-down clicker has been removed from the throttle pedal, and the pedal is back in. A little bit of silicon spray made it much easier to install. The next challenge has been wiring... I didn't have the foresight to get new connectors for the DME, so I carefully pulled all the leftovers from the auto-box harness. It turns out most of the other write ups I'd been following are for petrols, and the pins don't match the diesel DME. Luckily the reverse switch is described here: http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/122234-e39-manual-conversion-reverse-lights/ Clavurion also provided this http://www.bmw-planet.net/diagrams/release/en/zinfo/E39_PA2249D.htm Based on those two, the wiring plan changed slightly. 1 - Connect park neutral switch (pin 6 EWS) to permanent 12V at pin 10 EWS. Save wire to pin 6 for reverse switch. 2 - Clutch switch (3-wire). - wire 1 to ground. Stolen from brake switch wire 2. - wire 2 to pin 23 of the DME X2414 black 40 pin connector. - wire 3 to 12V. Stolen from brake switch wire 1. 3 - Reverse switch part 1 - wiring. Reused part of the auto-box harness as the reverse switch is in near enough the same place as auto box connection (under at the back.) - wire 1 to ground. Pin 6 of the X2411 DME black 9 pin connector. - wire 2 to pin 16 of the X2412 DME black 24 pin connector. 4 - Reverse switch part 2 - line from DME to cluster. Reuse park neutral switch wire (blue/black) from pin 6 EWS. - connect wire to pin 4 of the X11175 black 26 pin cluster connector . - move other end from EGS (pin 3 on the blue 62 pin connector) to pin 19 of the X2414 DME black 40 pin connector. Most of this is done, I just need to run a wire for the clutch through the firewall, then test and tape up the loom.
×