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jake13 last won the day on July 19 2018

jake13 had the most liked content!

About jake13

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    Advanced Member

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  • Garage
    E61 535d M Sport

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  1. jake13

    Mixing Oil viscosities?

    The sheer ignorance of Chemistry is mind boggling.
  2. jake13

    Run flat repair

    The side wall is much stiffer on the RF tyre and technically you can drive and have it repaired providing it's not the sidewall. From experience, if you drive RF tyre with no air and have it repaired you will get leak around the bead and rim. However, with regular driving it will eventually seal itself. I would also carry a compressor so you can top up the air if the need arises.
  3. jake13

    Fuel filter intervals?

    19,000 x 3 = 57,000 miles
  4. jake13

    Surging issues - 550i

    Check accelarator pedal and reset adaptation if possible.
  5. jake13

    Bmw e60 535d m sport

    Unless I'm mistaken, Pre-LCi vehicle will need M5 paddle shift steering wheel and they're not cheap. I've seen this setup on a E61 550i with a SMG gearbox.
  6. This seems to be a fitting issue. The caliper piston needs to be retracted FULLY when installing new pads. The guide bolts need to be smooth and free of crud, you're not suppose to grease them. All surfaces need to cleaned and strategically greased and don't forget to install the spring. Removing and installing/renewing brake pads on both front disc brakes When installing the wheel, all five wheel bolts should be able to tighten evenly by hand. This implies that the wheel is centred on to the hub. The wheel bolts should be torqued on the ground (loaded).
  7. I had a similar problem with the front N/S door, it wouldn't open from inside and outside. I thumped the area around the 'arbag' tag with side of my fist, which seems to have done the trick. It happened twice and haven't had any issues so far. I tried to 'correct' the outer handle on the rear N/S door. However, I accidentally pushed the lock further and door handle clip/hook would not slot in to the lock. I had to remove the door card and membrane. There is a hole below area of bowden cable where you can disengage the lock using a long screwdriver which will avoid removing the membrane. Refitting the handle was tricky, however I realised that I had to push on to the lock from the inside with the screwdriver whilst tightening T20 screw from the side. Overview of front door locks Removing and installing/replacing door lock in left or right front door 51 21 170Removing and installing or replacing outer door handle from left or right front door Special tools required: 51 2 220 Note: If replacing version with Comfort Access/CA: In order to avoid Comfort Access malfunction, use only original BMW paints on the outer door handle with electrically non-conducting primer. New part* (from 09/2005) is provided with electrically non-conducting primer. * Sourcing reference: BMW Parts Department Removal: Note: Installation is described separately from removal. 2-door models: Remove cover (1). Only remove cover (2) to release the outer door handle cover. 4-door models: Remove cover (1). Only remove cover (2) to release the outer door handle cover. Note: Protect bore (1) against scratching (risk of corrosion). Important! If the screw is correctly tightened, the lock mechanism can spring back and the sound insulation must then be removed. Pull outer door handle (2) outward until screw (3) is accessible through bore hole (1) and hold outer door handle (2) in this position. Using special tool 51 2 220 , tighten screw (3) counterclockwise to secure outer door handle (2). Tightening torque 51 21 5AZ. First pull off outer door handle (1) in area (A) from rear lock actuation (2). Then pull outer door handle (1) in area (B) off of front lock actuation (3) in direction of arrow. Installation: The following parts on outer door handle (4) must not be damaged or missing: 1 Rear fixture 2 Front fixture 3 Felt strip (no longer needed if present during reinstallation/replacement) Stop pad (1) must be fitted. Correctly insert outer door handle (4) with bore hole (3) into fixture (2). Correctley engage fixture (5) of outer door handle (4) into lock actuation (6). Note: Protect bore (1) against paintwork damage (risk of corrosion). Important! If the screw is correctly tightened, the lock mechanism can spring back and the sound insulation must then be removed. Hold outer door handle (2) and use special tool 51 2 220 to tighten screw (3) clockwise. Tightening torque 51 21 5AZ. Carry out function check only with door open.
  8. jake13

    F10 door corrosion

    Check the paint match when it's dry.
  9. jake13

    Fuel Gauge

    Run instrument cluster test (K1): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VXdENMSR8G8
  10. jake13

    F10 door corrosion

    Are you at liberty to say which branch?
  11. jake13

    Brake disc wear

    Too cheesy
  12. You don't need planning permission as long as it's not attached to a building. However, how would your envious neighbour react if you refuse him ramp time? The ramp will give you the opportunity to expand your channel since there is very little out there on the F series.
  13. jake13

    Brake disc wear

    They're stupid price, so I didn't bother replacing them. I think mine is original and over 13 years old, but doesn't rattle. The trick is not to bend the legs when putting it back on the caliper.
  14. jake13

    Brake disc wear

    When you replace your discs, tidy up the calipers especially the spring clip. Spray can is PITA with all the masking. However, I used this rated at 800c and does not burn when you use a heat gun to dry. VHT paint
  15. jake13

    Soldering Iron advice

    You need to roughen (key) the area so the solder can stick. Plumbers solder has a higher melting point and with any soldering iron you have to make sure the tip is properly tinned.