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About rgourlay

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  1. Hi, Interesting unit. What are the cold and hot boot times please? Have you experienced any niggles? Many thanks, Rich
  2. 6 series GC gets my vote. Can feel enclosed inside with dark interior due to coupe lines - light interior made the difference for me. Test drove a 640d msport and was very impressed with refinement and speed. It'll most likely be my next car, only downside is diesel... However, it was hard to tell it was diesel inside as so refined.
  3. I replaced my PAS fluid this year and the old fluid was a brown with a hint of red maybe. To me the fluid sprayed looks that colour. I wonder if you could rub some of the PAS fluid from the reservoir on the plastic and let it dry to see if the colour matches....? PAS is ATF. I followed I US guide earlier this year to clean up a leak from one of the pipes by trimming it. I also replaced the o-ring on the screw cap. I'd probably clean the area up and keep an eye on it.
  4. Hi, Any suggestions of the cheapest place to source a new genuine vdo door actuator from? Many thanks!
  5. Sgs-engineering do quality jacks. I went with this one for future proofing: http://www.sgs-engineering.com/garage-equipment/trolley-jacks/tja25-aluminium-trolley-jack Looks very similar to the Warrior mentioned above. The Warrior has it on price and reach from what I can tell.
  6. Hi, I had this, to a lesser extant at 80k, during my first winter with the car in 2014. The previous owner was running Shell Helix from what I could tell. It had 5 services lights to go which may or may not have been really true. Once I changed the oil it was fine. I went with the recommended Castrol. Hope its nothing serious. Ps. I was doing short runs at the time which may have contributed. I do short runs now with Castrol and all seems well.
  7. This might be of interest to some. I performed the Temp Gauge Buffer Range modification the E46 people do on my e39 530i 2003. See http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1013600 The following will make more sense once you read the link: The e39 uses a more sensible range in the first place (compared the the E46) however I wanted increased early warning of a problem and an earlier alarm. The hex code is to be found in two places instead of the single place in the E46. Here is my before and after hex with a table below showing the decimal values for easy ready. 27 0F 5E 32 C6 4B C6 73 36 78 69 7D FF C1 27 0F 5E 41 C6 5A C6 64 36 6E 69 73 FF C1 XX XX XX XX XX 0F = 15 0F = 15 32 = 50 41 = 65 4B = 75 5A = 90 73 = 115 64 = 100 78 = 120 6E = 110 7D = 125 73 = 115 It has made the gauge more sensitive and it takes longer to reach the middle now. Coasting down a hill on a cold day or turning the heating on for first time will cause a slip dip. Hope this is of interest. I can post a guide and some more references if people are interested.
  8. Hi, I had problems with their Canbus Pro in my E39 530i. Would cause dashboard display anomalies - triggered various and random dash light on start-up. This occurred mainly if engine was idling when light ignited, extra revs did sometimes help. However, I was cocncerned about damage so they were swappefd for their Canbus Premium. This has solved the dash anomolies. These also ignite a little quicker, still not as quick my factory Xenon's in my Clio 182. I did also experience loss of one headlight, which was identified as a build out on dash, one evening. This was either fixed by ensuring good connection or a restart. Their Canbus Pro does not make a great connection with the BMW headlight connector. The Premium is a better connection. Hope this helps. Rich
  9. I had to repair the wiring in the hinges on my Touring to fix the high level brake light. This required me to have the tailgate and window open to carry out the work. You can access the wires inside the car by removing the speakers in the roof. This allows you to connect new wires and route them by taping them to the old wire and pulling them through. I had to take apart the hinges to route the wires to there destination. Hope this helps.
  10. Hi, Car is a manual 2003 530i Touring on 85k miles. I noticed the grease has leaked out of the propshaft CV joint and sprayed over the exhaust. I haven't noticed any noise other than maybe a slight thud once when changing down for an overtake. My question is how urgent is this to get fixed? Can a leaky CV joint cause any damage to propshaft or diff? Basically can it wait a few weeks or should I try get it sorted quicker? The garage did mention (when it was in for something else) that it would need something doing in 5k that needed the exhaust off but to just wait - its been 6k and I'm assuming this what he meant. Any ideas how much labour is involved from a garage? I understand the exhaust needs to come off. I won't be tackling this myself. The guibo has slight cracking appearing in it so I was thinking it would be prudent to change that and bearing at the same time. Parts wise, which brands should I go for and where is the best place to source from? Many thanks, Rich