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About Pottsy

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    2014 F10 535d

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  1. My ride height is also 11 to 18mm higher than that spec sheet (SE suspension, due to AD on an M Sport car).
  2. The gearbox and FD multiply TORQUE not POWER. The cars have different FDs. I keep saying this, but you keep telling me I have said a gearbox multiplies power. I think I am in the wrong forum for this kind of stuff. Simple science, get shouted at.
  3. BTU/s is a unit of power. A gearbox multiplies torque, not power. See all my above posts. Number of cylinders does not equate to power output. Now I think it's you who's trying to engage in a wind up. I have simply tried to put down some simplified engineering to explain why it's a nonsense to directly compare max torque figures from petrol and diesel engines. It's not contraversial, it's just simple science.
  4. BTU/h is just another measurement of power. My 535d has a max power output of 218 BTU/s. Just me quoting different measurements of power, not trying to wind anyone up.
  5. They mean that: When worked hard at high rpm, the 35i and 35d are the same. When at half rpm (roughly 3000 for the 35i and 2300 for the 35d), the 35d has 18% more power. When at the same speed in the same gear (roughly 3000 for the 35i and 2600 for the 35d), the 35d has 35% more power. This stat is a bit misleading, because the 35d will run out of rpm earlier. However it best quantifies the "feel" of the diesel. Comparing the peak torque figures (630nm, 400nm, 58% difference) is a complete nonsense due to the different reduction gears fitted to the two cars. Here is an analogy for the torque thing, using electricity: To get 1kw of power down a wire, you could have 100V and 10A, or 10V and 100A. Power is just Volts x Amps. Indeed, you can step the voltage up and down using a transformer. So you can convert the 100V 10A supply to 10V 100A using a transformer, but you will always have 1kw of power. To get 1kw of power down a rotating shaft, you could have 1000nm and 10 rpm, or 100nm and 100 rpm. Power is just torque x rpm. Indeed you can step the torque up and down using a gearbox. So you can convert your 1000nm 10rpm supply to 100nm 100 rpm supply using a gearbox, but you will always have 1kw of power. Comparing torque figures of different engines is like comparing voltages of different electric motors. A nonsense because it's not the full story. You need to compare power (kW, PS, bhp, btu/h, erg/s, Nm/s etc).
  6. By putting a reduction gear on the output shaft. Same power, but as much torque as you like. Just demonstrating how pointless torque figures are. You can change them with gears.
  7. To compare the 35i to the 35d at anything other than max rpm, you can overlay the 2 power curves. Conventionally you align the rpms where the peak power occurs, but this is only comparing the two engines. To compare the two cars, you adjust by the difference in final drive ratios. This lets you see how much power one car has in a certain gear and a certain speed compared to the other (same gear, same speed). Luckily, in the past, I have prepared these graphs for your viewing pleasure.
  8. Er, not "end of"! Torque is multiplied by gearboxes and final drives. If you put 500nm and 1000 rpm into a reduction gearbox of (say) 4:1, you get 2000nm and 250rpm out of the gearbox. Petrol cars have final drives of a greater reduction ratio than diesel cars, because petrol engines rev higher. So they multiply the torque more. What you need to compare is power (which is torque x revs) as this is not affected by gearboxes. Diesels do normally make more power at low revs than petrols, but not by the amount that is inferred by comparing peak torque figures. Just ignore torque figures, they are meaningless nonsense promulgated by marketing departments and latched on to by ignorant motoring journalists. I could make a 2cv engine that delivered 2000nm peak torque, with no mods to the engine...
  9. Don't ever compare torque figures. Torque is multiplied before it gets to your rear wheels, and the drivetrain in the petrol car multiplies it more than the diesel car.
  10. Yes. The car still monitors the battery condition while it is off. A dashcam will drain the battery enough (after about 6 hours or so) such that it will throw a battery drain error - and the car then switches off other services that would normally be on when parked. https://www.blackboxmycar.com/blogs/news/77753863-bmw-battery-discharge-and-cellink-battery-b
  11. Don't think that will work either. The car will detect a more rapid voltage drop on the battery, and conclude that something was wrong (and go "ding" again).
  12. As sshooie says, if you do find a permanent live then the car will throw up all sorts of error messages. I have an M6+, and connect it to a Cellink B, in the glove box. Fit and forget, works perfectly (but is expensive).
  13. It's quite possible that the hardware was installed to allow the screen to get brighter if the sun fell on it (need to try by pointing a very bright LED torch at the dot for at least 30 seconds), but BMW subsequently changed that by software so that the screens use a different light sensor. Putting a finger on it won't do anything - you need to be in day mode and shine a torch. I don't have the dot, but for example my car has HUD and the brightness of that changes very quickly (and independently of the screens) so there will be yet another light sensor somewhere else.
  14. Is it not just the hole for the light sensor (just for the screen brightness) on CIC nav cars? There appears to be 2 manufacturers of the surround ("TPO" and "JCI") so the dot could look different. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=FW12-EUR-02-2010-F10-BMW-520d&diagId=65_2110
  15. I update the satnav as the updates appear, and it's rare for the database to be wrong. And no - stuff (this applies to bends, junctions, slip roads, roundabouts) not in the database just makes it into a normal car for a tiny moment. To be fair, the 535d doesn't suffer from the nothing-go problem anyway. Have a look at the details in the link I posted above. All cars, summer 14.