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About DepthHoar

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    E39 530d (manual) & E39 M5 (2001MY)

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  1. That's a ridiculously good price for a decent set of Style 65 wheels! I've got a full spare set of the same wheels (which are not for sale!) refurbed by Lepsons for £400. OK they've got the odd very tiny mark - which I'd bet you'd struggle to see without careful examination - but £600 is a stunning bargain. (Maybe not the best time of year to be selling with Xmas very much in sight now?)
  2. Oil Analysis

    Might want to wait a few thousand miles until testing the oil otherwise it's unlikely to give a meaningful result for accumulated wear metals. My oil had done 5250 miles when it was sampled and sent off to Miller Oil.
  3. Favourite feature?

    That V8 engine. I feel a distinct change in body chemistry every time I fire it up from cold. (Also like the wierd flicker from the headlights when you turn them on. It's like The Beast is blinking its eyes after being suddenly awoken.)
  4. Oil Analysis

    Engine oil analysis can be a basic indicator of engine health. It's not a new thing, this type of testing is common on very expensive machinery/engines used on big plant, and in aviation and naval engineering. Needless to say, it's not as definitive as disassembly and inspection of critical components subject to wear. Completely co-incidentally I got the engine oil analysis results for my M5 from Miller Oils this morning! The guys on the M5board seem pretty keen on engine oil analysis so I thought I'd give it a go. Was £25 - not much. I noticed that the Blackstone oil analysis reports published on M5board have a column of 'Universal Averages' for our particular engines, so used this data set as a benchmark to make sense of my Miller Oil results. Was a pleasing outcome for me since all the wear metrics for my engine/oil were better (some significantly better) than the Blackstone universal averages. The Miller report gives a load of info on the different metals/substances found in the oil. It's the amount of these in the oil (in PPM - parts per million) that indicate, to a lesser or greater degree, the amount of wear your engine has experienced recently. There's also other stuff about the general condition of the engine oil itself - changes in viscosity etc etc.. Wasn't particularly interested in that part of the report since I change the every year and have yet to do more than 5k miles between oil/filter changes. How useful is the information to an owner? I guess if I saw that the copper and lead reading were very high then I might consider - as a pre-emptive measure - rod bearing replacement even though the weren't yet making odd or alarming noises. I plan on getting my oil analysed every year from now on so I can monitor wear trends. Don't think it's going to tell me much about the chain guides though since they are plastic; a borescope inspection would be better for this, which isn't invasive or expensive. An engine oil analysis report that reveals below average wear gives a little (qualified) peace of mind, I guess? (A copy of my report has gone into the M5's service history file.) Here's a background piece I found useful:- http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/30274/motor-oil-limits
  5. 540 ignition switch refurbishment

    Just to eliminate the battery as an issue Is your battery correctly specced/sized for your particular car? When I first got my 530d it came with a new but very weedy battery which lasted all of 2 years....just! As far as I can tell from Realoem, your battery should be 90 amp hours, the same BMW original spec as the one now in my diesel. (My M5 has an even beefier battery at 110AH).
  6. Removing heater blower

    Undo or remove the zip tie type thing around the thick trunk of wiring. Then lift the wiring up to create more space, inset motor then re-fasten the old cable tie (or replace with a regular zip tie). From memory, you may need to remove several other cable ties to create enough slack in the wiring harness. Well done on getting this far. It does feel a bit 'balls out' when you've got the entire dash out of the car. Most of the hard work is done though. What you're doing right now is the easy bit.....apart from putting the dash et al together again!
  7. 540 ignition switch refurbishment

    Same with my old battery - seemed to hold a full charge and passed all the usual tests. I also had the random 'no turn over, no start' (as opposed to turning over and not firing) issue but always started at the second attempt. The engine then turned over reasonably well and fired quickly so I thought it couldn't possibly be a battery issue. Even had this issue immediately after a long motorway run when you'd think the battery would be well charged. How old is your battery?
  8. 540 ignition switch refurbishment

    Are you having occasional 'no start' issues? I had this on my M5. Couldn't work out what was wrong so changed the ignition switch as this is a common fault but without much improvement in my case. Next I changed the ring antenna + the 'O' ring that goes with it (both very cheap from a BMW dealer), again without much success. Finally changed the battery for a properly specced one (cheapest place was my local BMW dealer!) which sorted my problem. The battery it replaced was old but didn't seem in bad condition when tested but I've since learnt that a slowly failing battery can be the root of innumerable mysterious electrical problems including occasional non-starting.
  9. 540 ignition switch refurbishment

    /\/\ As above. Febi aftermarket ignition switches for our cars are German made, too.
  10. BMW M5 (E39): PH Heroes

    Interesting review which induced a wide variety of responses from PH forum members. 'Patrick Batemen' (AKA 'Dirty Harry' on here) was pretty active on the thread and offered a stout defence of the virtues of the M5 against numerous faint-hearts and nae-sayers. I think Ross secretly wants another E39 M5!
  11. Blanking swirl flaps is good?

    "Why swirl flaps?" https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swirl_flap "Is blanking them good for the M57 engine?" Short answer is yes on our now quite elderly engines. Failure to do so can result in enough damage to scrap the engine. See the Wikipedia entry above for more info. Swirl flaps only our cars fitted with an automatic gearbox. Manual models don't have swirl flaps. "Any loss of power and any future problems in the future" According to the Wiki article there will be some minor loss of driveability at smaller throttle openings. (Emissions may also be a little greater without them.) No future problems, in fact quite the reverse! Removing them means you're unlikely to have a lunched engine due to securing screws and/or flaps being ingested by the engine. Also less likely to have EML lights due to compromised swirl flaps becoming inoperative/stuck because of a coating of thick black crud. In general, removing them from our engines is a win/win.
  12. Choice dilemma. ... E39 or E60

    A few random thoughts. I've got an E39 M5 and love its accessible torque and performance. There's no doubt at all that the E60 M5 has significantly more power and a magnificent V10 engine. According to some owners its power delivery tends to be most noticeable when you're making progress well above all GB legal road speeds. Ideal on the autobahns then but less good on our congested motorways and dual carriageways, especially in SE England. The power delivery curves of the E39 M5 and the E60 M5 are an interesting (and surprising) comparison. I'd quite like an E60 M5 though; love the idea of a n/a V10 petrol engine. What I'd want is a proper manual gearbox to accompany it (which is what they could get in N.America) since I really couldn't cope with that unlovely and not very clever SMG box of tricks it came equipped with in the UK market. (Seeing the 'red cog of death' flash on the display would be both a trouser-filling and wallet-emptying experience only available to E60 owners.) The V10 and V8 engines of either iteration can spin their rod bearings, of course. There's next to no tech in the E39 - the built in sat nav is clunky & hopeless and the sound system compromised compared to modern stuff. If in-car tech is your thing then get an E60. I-Drive will keep you amused for hours but I like the E39's analogue simplicity. Just shifting its gears and listening to the V8 soundtrack keeps me very happily amused for hours! Maybe the V10 isn't quite as tuneful as the V8 lower in its rev range? Different matter when really spanking the V10's arse though! Iv'e parked next to quite a few E60 models. Outwardly they're massive compared to the E39, though that doesn't seem to translate into a much bigger cabin. The E39 cabin is also better trimmed? Parts for the E39 M5 are not hard to find. Some are very expensive to buy, but I've only ever waited an additional 2 days for the occasional 'Germany only' parts from Cotswold BMW. There's loads of readily available aftermarket parts at pretty decent prices (Lemforder etc.). Same can be said for the E60 too, I guess. Hoopyfrood. You like cars and have already had an E39 M5. Perhaps it's time to tick the E60 M5 box?
  13. Reviving E39 530D Webasto..

    If you're fully committed to reviving your Webasto to full operational condition then it might be worth inspecting a linked pair of metal coolant pipes that run to/from the unit. On my pre-facelift 530d manual saloon the offending pipes were steel and were completely rotten. A serious leak here could mean game over for the engine if it were under load at speed. As you can see from the photo mine were shot but from the outside in, with the walls of the pipes approaching paper-thin when inspected off the car. The heavily salted roads in the Scottish Highlands have a lot to answer for, but well worth a check even if you're in the balmy climes of the south!. It's a bit of a pain getting full access but (from memory) you can get a glimpse of them from underneath the car without removing too many covers. There was a certain amount of confusion when identifying the pipes on Realoem and I ended up ordering a spurious pair of linked alloy pipes instead of the steel ones. The alloy pipes were £45-ish, the steel pipes an eye-watering £224. Some models require steel pipes, other alloy. Check very carefully before you commit to buying since both versions are special order from Germany and not returnable. Both look exactly the same on the Realoem parts diagram. For reference, the STEEL pipes part number is 64128383019, and the ALLOY pipes are 64126916537. I therefore have a pair of alloy pipes sitting on my desk but, if Realoem is to be believed, they'll fit my E39 M5 so I'll probably hang on to them 'just in case'! (In the end I just pulled the fuse on the Webasto since the electrics and associated connectors looked fried and I didn't fancy weird battery draining issues. My mate had a similar E39 a few years ago and his Webasto suddenly started belching clouds of black fumes one morning without warning. His wife called the fire brigade! Safe to say, the electrics on the Webasto had also corroded to hell so he also pulled the fuse.)
  14. E39 530d water pump etc.

    (Tried a direct email a little earlier) Afternoon, Gents, Can you price some parts, please? Vehicle: BMW E39 530d (MY2000) VIN BY93153 Thermostat: 11512354056 Water pump: 11517786192 Hose: 11532248865 (Individual prices, please.) Look forward to your reply. Best regards Tom
  15. E39 M5 gearbox alternatives............

    Speak to Quarry Motors in Sheffield, they're specialist BMW dismantlers and may well have a used one on the shelf. A bit of a 'crap shoot' quality-wise but probably the cheapest short term solution?