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About DepthHoar

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    E39 530d (manual) & E39 M5 (2001MY)

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  1. DepthHoar

    E39 M5 clutch & flywheel - too good to be true?

    I bought my clutch kit from CP4L (part of ECP) for a decent price 4 yrs ago without incident though I know others have experienced occasional issues with them. The CP4L price in your link does look good. The LUK flywheel part number quoted on the eBay link indicates the correct part. Here's the LUK catalogue reference for the DMF:- https://webcat.schaeffler.com/web/schaeffler/en_GB/PKW/16/1449/10300/6/415 0110 10_577/applicationSearch.xhtml?result=1539981722783&csc=1 Sachs clutch kit part number also looks good. Put your vehicle data into the Sachs web catalogue for confirmation:- https://webcat.zf.com/?SPR=4 I also remember someone getting a stonking deal on a DMF via Amazon a year or two ago but definitely not available now.
  2. (Shy, delicate types, this isn't for you! Look away now.) Saw this referenced on M5board. Made me laugh out loud. Sniffpetrol, eat your heart out! Enjoy (but definitely not politically correct or safe for work).
  3. DepthHoar

    Front end clonk

    ABS sensor came out OK. Fitted a new front wheel bearing since 'I was in there anyway' and the FAG bearing was reasonably priced. Was a few years ago so can't remember whether reusing the old bearing was feasible or not.
  4. DepthHoar

    Front end clonk

    Had to clean up the wheel carrier quite thoroughly to see it. A hairline crack so not immediately obvious. The crack was at the narrowest part where the socket for the metal bush (sleeve?) is located.
  5. DepthHoar

    Front end clonk

    Is the clunk speed related? I had something similar on my 530d but only at low speed when running over poor quality road surfaces. Turned out to be a cracked wheel carrier (steering knuckle), part #2 in this diagram: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DL72-EUR-06-2000-E39-BMW-530d&diagId=31_0255 The wheel carrier has (at least) one pressed in metal bush to receive one or other of the suspension arms. The wheel carrier had cracked close to this bush allowing it to move and rattle....but only at low speed and on certain surfaces. I'm on my third set of suspension arms on this particular car and reckon the hairline crack on the wheel carrier came about after several attempts to release worn out arms. A hairline crack meant it was difficult to identify but a new wheel carrier solved that particular problem.
  6. DepthHoar

    MOT emissions results

    Epic! Much envy. One day I will build a 300hp/tonne Caterham. It's on the bucket list....
  7. DepthHoar

    MOT emissions results

    A good result for you and a timely thread. Coincidentally my M5 was in for an MOT today. Unfortunately the engine management pixies decided it was time to illuminate the EML .....400m from the MOT station whilst I driving it in for its annual test! Back story: The car had been driving 'OK', but was a little down on power I thought. Looking at INPA last week my multiplicative (long term) fuel trims had been at the upper end of their scale of adjustment, as high as a +22% and +19% correction for banks 1 and 2 respectively. (Max adjustment of the fuel trims by the ECU is plus or minus 25%). After some investigation and diagnostic work last week I decided this was a fuel supply issue and replaced the fuel pump. No joy; same values showed up in INPA. It was definitely a fuelling issue though, not bad MAFs, CPS, vacuum leaks etc etc. so pursued other elements in the fuel supply system. Scheduled a fuel filter & fuel pressure regulator replacement + a fuel pressure check at the garage carrying out the MOT. The car's ECU must have reached the end of it's adjustment to fuel trims, triggering the EML and (out of sheer bloody mindedness) decided to do this at the roundabout just before the MOT garage this morning. Buggeration! MOT failure straight off the bat. Arrived at the garage and turned off the ignition and left it for a minute before restarting. No joy. EML still on. So whipped out the Peake code reader I keep in the car and cleared the light and the fault codes (Peake codes AE and AF) and restarted the engine. No light! But I suspected that the fuel trims were still perilously close to their (+) outer limits. Since the cats etc were stinking hot after the journey I immediately ran the car into the MOT inspection bay and got the emissions done first before anything else. Passed the test with no advisories but with a less than good emissions test as shown below:- (Above) (Crappy) photo of my analogue values showing the fuel trims last week before the MOT. Multiplicative values way too close (+1.22, a 22% correction) to the maximum 25% correction before an EML is triggered. (Above) Tore apart the old fuel filter that the garage boys removed from the car after the MOT. This is the 'inside' face of the filter. (Above) Outside face of the old filter and the old fuel pressure regulator. Fitted the filter and pressure regulator 15k miles ago and the filter didn't seem too bad considering . (Ignore the metal specks that show up on the photo; they're alloy shavings from when I hacksawed the filter casing apart.) Fuel pressure was measured at 3.2 and 3.9 bar (with and without vacuum at idle) before the above parts were replaced. Typical BMW spec values are 4.4 and 4.9 bar for the M5. Something must have been amiss with either the filter or the regulator though as there was a dramatic improvement in both the fuel pressure and the fuel trims with the new parts fitted. With new filter and pressure regulator the fuel pressure improved to 4.3 and 4.8 to 5 bar, with and without vacuum. Didn't reset the fuel trim adaptations in INPA and yet they improved dramatically just 60 miles later this afternoon. +1.00 and +1.06 which is just a 6% correction on one bank only. Result! See below: Would be interesting to see how this improvement in the fuel trims is reflected in improved emissions but I won't be troubling the MOT tester for a confirmation....at least until this time next year.
  8. DepthHoar

    Space saver steel wheel

    Payment made via Paypal. With thanks.
  9. DepthHoar

    Space saver steel wheel

    Hi Guys, Can you price the following wheel for me please? Part number: 36116768861 Look forward to your reply. Best regards. Tom
  10. DepthHoar

    Saloon rear door water ingress

    /\ /\ - what he said. The butyl sealant that adheres the door membrane (vapour barrier) to the door frame has failed somewhere, probably near the bottom of the door. Common failure and a DIY fix. You need decent butyl tape to do the repair. Something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Coralgraph-Inc-Butyl-Sealer-Bonding/dp/B00CQNC8ZY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1535386602&sr=8-3&keywords=butyl+tape Some people just patch up the section that's parted company from the door frame, others remove the whole vapour barrier and start again. Important to clean up the door frame and vapour barrier thoroughly so that the new butyl will stick properly.
  11. DepthHoar

    auxiliary (serpentine) tension belt - advice please

    Had the old ones lying around so some part numbers and dimensions for replacement pulleys referred to in the above postings: *All the pulleys in the photos are the old factory-fitted originals. The boxes they appear with in the photos contained the new INA replacements* A/C pulley first:- (INA markings just visible on the original factory-fitted pulley.) (Above) The INA new replacement is 24.5mm wide but as you can see from the wear marks in photo above the 1.5mm deficit isn't an issue as the belt has plenty of 'elbow room'. Water pump/alternator pulleys:- (Above) Both of the water pump/alternator pulleys. Bore size for all pulleys is 17mm. Hope this helps someone tracking down replacement pulleys. Much cheaper than the BMW complete assemblies!
  12. DepthHoar

    auxiliary (serpentine) tension belt - advice please

    I went through this last summer. Thought I would replace both belts, pulley assemblies/pulleys and both tensioners. Only replaced the actual pulleys and most of those were OK but changed them since they were quite cheap. Which leads me on to.....the pulleys are available as separate units. The OE supplier is Schaeffler, whose brands include INA, FAG and Ruville among others. Schaeffler web catalogue: https://webcat.schaeffler.com/web/schaeffler/en_GB/index.xhtml?reset=1 There's a whole load of stuff on M5board about the correct size of these pulleys - do a search there. The pulleys that came off had INA and BMW branding (..hazy memory) so was happy putting INA replacements back on. The pulleys were about £10 each and they simply unbolt from the supporting pulley assemblies, though one was a bit of a fight. The tensioners themselves were fine so I left them on and I still have the new ones in their original packaging looking at me now. The OE belts are Contitech and are available at reasonable cost outside the dealer network. Spin the pulleys and check for roughness; compress the tensioners and check for sufficient resistance to compression. Note that the tensioners are installed in a particular orientation - they're marked with an arrow indicating 'top' (up). Doesn't have to be expensive at all. You might get away with just replacing the belt but I'd be tempted to change the pulleys because 'you're already in there' even though they're fine and spin without roughness.
  13. DepthHoar

    E39 M5 Suspension - Experiences Please

    Floatiness is normally a product of poor/worn out suspension (springs and/or dampers) at the rear of the car. On most cars it's the rear dampers that usually require replacement ahead of the springs and ahead of anything on the front suspension. I was a bit surprised to find that the rear dampers on my car weren't as worn as the front at replacement time, and they'd never been changed prior to my ownership. Never found my car to be at all floaty before or after replacement. A bit crashy at the front (both sides) but not floaty. After the dampers were replaced at both ends (I kept the original springs on) everything just seemed more 'connected' and responsive. Planted, definitely. Keep coming back to your desire to track the car. The more sensible and long-standing forum members on the M5board (there are a few....) seem to favour your Bilstein and Intrax combo for occasional track work and daily driving. Evolve also offer this set up over here in the UK and I have quite a lot of respect for this outfit and their ideas. Maybe no coincidence that this is your preferred alternative to an OE set-up and it's probably what I'd choose if I wanted to exercise my M5 round the occasional track. Also think about your tyre choice. Marginal gains etc.. Might be worth mentioning that if you're at all concerned about residual values then you might just want to go for the OE set up. Original, stock cars do seem to attract more interest and better prices than even lightly 'modified' ones.
  14. DepthHoar

    E39 M5 Suspension - Experiences Please

    Another complete front & rear OE refresh here. I don't track the car so can't comment on that side of things but with the new OE dampers I found the ride to be beautifully compliant for regular & fast road use. (The old front OE dampers had become a little crashy after about 80k miles and the new ones made a noticeable improvement.) If you're going to be tracking the car you may want to look at one of the better quality aftermarket set ups since you're likely to experience better body control when really pushing the car on track. The down side will be a somewhat less compliant ride on regular roads at other times of course. I'd recommend replacing top mounts when swapping out the dampers + a proper 4 wheel alignment after all the work has been carried out.
  15. DepthHoar

    Centre Air Vent Photos

    (Below) E39 530d (MY2000) (Below) E39 M5 (MY2001)