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About Wabby

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    IT Manager


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    c250d Coupè

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  1. Changed stat - now no hot air.

    Definitely an air lock.
  2. TBH EcoTune are FTW so you are in good hands with them
  3. E61 535D knock when under acceleration

    If it sounds like a squeeky bed inside that could be rose bushes.
  4. Dpf removal, and new mot rules...

    Wait and see what happens. All petrol cars have to have CATs on by law since like '93 ... yet there are loads without!
  5. Injector test - inpa - 530d

    Also, stick to BOSCH brand (I think) for the MAF if I remember correctly. Somebody else will be along to correct me if I am wrong.
  6. Injector test - inpa - 530d

    Reconnect the MAF and leave the EGR plugged off. If it still drives the same, then the MAF is OK. If it goes back to being shite, it would point to the MAF at fault. If the MAF is OK, you have a few options with the EGR: Take it off, clean the fuck out of it (and the inlet manifold as well as that will be the same) and then plug back in and continue to use the EGR Blank it off / Just plug it off with a golf tee or such, but then you will need somebody to map it out as it will throw the EML after a few starts and this will effect an MOT in the future (You could always plug back in for MOT etc... but a ball ache non the less)
  7. The old thermostat questions (again)

    Hopefully all works well
  8. Injector test - inpa - 530d

    Smooth running would be anything that can effect the smooth running I would imagine: Injectors Air/Fuel ratios (MAF etc) Maybe even the Throttle Valve/EGR I would try pulling the MAF, if that fails - Try pulling the EGR vacuum hose and plugging it with a golf tee or such like so you don't loose vacuum.
  9. The old thermostat questions (again)

    The BMW feed into the GBHE doesn't come from the radiator either mate - It comes from the EGR. I think you are on the money GoNz0 - Stick it as close to after the GBHE as you can and you should be good. I'm not good with imperial units and just realised how much bigger 1.25" is in comparison to the GBHE coolant pipes! Whoops. At least it pointed you in the right direction - I think the 80 will be fine TBH - It has to be better than constant open loop eh
  10. Injector test - inpa - 530d

    Cylinder 1 looked slightly out at the beginning of the shot. Try some Forte Injector Cleaner - I used it a few times and always put a full shot in with 10-15 quid of diesel and then drove it like I stole it. Sorted out a 'similar' issue I had .......
  11. The old thermostat questions (again)

    Yup, that stat should do the job and much much cheaper than the one I found from a quick search The drop on 8 or rise on 9 will both suffice for your running temps, and you are right, the drop on 8 will make the stat hit 80 faster - If you want the coolant to help heat the GBHE though its best after it (although will take longer to warm up and open). Both locations do the job, and I think that with the stat you have found there this might be a better solution for people with GBHE than simply sticking a biggie in the top hose. Hopefully solves your problem. I know what its like having a problem with one of these taking over your life ... I've been there twice. lol
  12. The old thermostat questions (again)

    1) It wouldnt be ‘dumping’ into it if you had it in the output line. It would be increasesing at a constant rate once the egr stat opens (same as now) and then would be allowed to go open circuit and ‘cool’ like it does now. 2) The whole point of the GBHE is two pronged: one to help get the box oil up to temp fast. It does this by holding hot coolant back inside. Without this it would take too long to reach temps where it can lock so would slip like a biatch for ages. Two to ensure the coolant regulates and keeps the oil in the box ‘cool’ under extremes circumstances by dumping its heat into the coolant and thus the big radiator cooling the coolant for the rest of the sysyem. If he coolant is just 10c less than the box oil it will exchange heat: cooling the oil and heating the coolant. This coolant then goes straight into the top of the radiator. I really do not get your resistance to this method, however, I will stop trying to make your lofe easier by suggesting solutions to your problem that appears to be taking over your life.
  13. The old thermostat questions (again)

    Stick it in/on/around pipe #9 which is the return from the GBHE to the top of the rad. It's where I was going to place the one on mine, but as I tested and my GBHE was working (Sorry ...) I placed it in the top hose instead
  14. The old thermostat questions (again)

    Yes it will. Put it on the output side of the stat thats failed - It will hold all fluid back until it reaches temperature at which point it opens - exactly the same as the GBHE thats allowing coolant through it at present. This will open independently then and not in the same manner as sticking one in the top hose as you seem so against.
  15. The old thermostat questions (again)

    If you are soooooooo bothered about it also interfering with the main temps as you pointed out before, get a housing for it and stick it on the output side of the gearbox one. You can get housings with correct sized fitments either side to stick 'inline' with your heat exchanger. Put it on the output side and a relevant spec'd stat in the housing and bobs your uncle .... Leave the heat exchanger in as this will then act extremely similar to the stock if the stat you put in the housing is of similar temp to the GBHE. Something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/K-Tuned-Universal-1-25-Inline-Billet-Thermostat-Housing-w-Stant-Thermostat-/301296893206