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About rnhobbs

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    E61 535d
  1. rnhobbs

    535d Major blue smoke after boosting

    Ah, yes, I view that I know all too well at the moment. The grazed knuckles, bruises and aches will remind me of it for the next fortnight at least. I'll be having nightmares about the lower-front big turbo flange bolt for another month at least too. I couldn't get the large turbo out without taking the manifold off which was irritating. The turbo had to come out of the top as I couldn't ease it out from below. I've got two good, used 535d turbo cores here if anyone needs them.
  2. rnhobbs

    535d Major blue smoke after boosting

    Just ending this post in case it helps someone out in the future. I changed both turbos and vented the breather to atmosphere and it still smoked. I'm not too bothered about having changed the turbos, I did it myself thanks to Jake13's images and they were less than £400 from turborebuild.co.uk in Blackpool (cores only). If you do this job yourself on the drive, give yourself at least a day! That bolt through the engine mount is a nightmare. It was the DPF software in the end. It was never coded out properly. Not really sure how someone could make such a school-boy error. Thanks to Paul at Cardiff Remaps for sorting it out for me. £100 well spent. And thanks to you guys for pointing me in the right direction. Cheers.
  3. rnhobbs

    535d Major blue smoke after boosting

    Thanks for that, It's as I thought, quite awkward changing the turbo outside on the drive but I don't have many other options. The small turbo core was only £146 brand new so worth a try. That's why I thought I'd see if I was missing something easy first. There seems to be a split opinion whether blue smoke after boosting is rings or compressor side of turbo seals. I think I'm going to try venting the breather to atmosphere first and see if it continues.
  4. rnhobbs

    535d Major blue smoke after boosting

    Yep, Sinclair Group South Wales. Swirl flaps are blanked, one of the first things I checked. I'm really scratching my head too. So annoying as it's a really nice motor otherwise. Living in Pembrokeshire means that any mappers - well reputed or not are miles away! I don't want to drive it as I don't want it to end up running on it's own oil and going bang. Richard.
  5. rnhobbs

    535d Major blue smoke after boosting

    Thanks guys, I have a nifty little Autel All-systems diagnostic bit of kit (highly recommended if you've never seen them). Sadly, I've tried that too, put the DPF back to 100% capacity on the counter reset, my tool counts the resets and that was it's 3rd one. No difference. I expect that the DPF was coded out correctly as there are no DPF error codes in the system, or indeed any other error codes. The complete dpf box has been removed and replaced with twin-pipes. I'm thinking it might be rings but surely not on a BMW diesel with just 127k? Is the big turbo easy to change from undrneath? It looks like a nightmare from the top. Richard.
  6. Guys, I need some help and / or advice please. The car: 2006 pre-LCI 535d that I recently bought from the Sinclair Group as a p/x. It has de-cat, EGR delete (software and valve), DPF delete (software and brick), Pipercross panel air filter, exhaust valve deleted and an awesome re-map (maybe more things as well). My last 535d had all the same mods but this one is much quicker. Sensible miles at 127k. The problem: Major blue-smoke from exhaust starting about 3 or 4 seconds after coming off the throttle / boost. But only when the engine is right up to temperature. It starts like a switch (no gradual build-up) and then will not stop happening once started. Strange because: No smoke on start-up. No smoke when revving stationary. No smoke when boosting. No smoke whilst on the throttle. No smoke until about 25 – 30 minutes from cold start-up. No smoke irrespective of how hard I drive it for the first 25 minutes, even when really nailing it. The EGR thermostat does need changing as the temperature dial on the tacho takes 25-30 minutes to swing all the way round. It would appear to only happen when the intake manifold is at maximum vacuum. I might be imagining things but the exhaust note changes too - more of a drone noise. What I’ve done: · Changed the small turbo (brand new) – no difference. · Changed the oil for some 10-40w – no difference. · Changed the vortex breather (brand new) – no difference. · Tried a standard air filter (brand new) – no difference. · Reinstated the exhaust valve – no difference. · Removed the EGR thermostat core to keep engine temperature down – no difference. Any ideas where to look next? I don’t want to invest in a large turbo if there is something simple I’m missing. Thanks guys. Richard.
  7. rnhobbs

    BMW 535d fluctuating revs fixed

    Yep, 2005 pre-lci. I'm not sure if the lci cars suffer with this as I understand that they have a different gearbox - 7 speed??? I'm not sure if they have the same TC or not.
  8. I’ve previously posted my experiences of 535d ownership and, having had quite a few private messages enquiring about how I fixed the fluctuating revs issue, I thought I’d put it as a dedicated post. Hopefully, my experiences may be of use to someone else. Symptoms – bouncing rpm at cruising with anything between 1,200 – 2,000 revs on the go. Mine used to bounce constantly, up to 200rpm at a time, every second, worse going uphill, irrespective of which gear, manual or full auto etc. I drove around it for months using sport mode to keep the revs above 2,000 and just generally driving fast. But that kind of defeats the object of driving a diesel! There was 145k on the clock. I tried a gearbox flush with filter change, it worked well, for about a month.…. then it came back again and got progressively worse. Save your money by not doing this, the inevitable will happen. Watching the clips on youtube and doing my research (forums, talking to gearbox specialists etc.), I was convinced that the torque converter was at fault. Ironically, I sold my last car due to a worn out TC (a W211 Merc.), I lost a small fortune and didn’t want to be ‘bitten’ twice. I phoned a few auto gearbox specialists and got quotes of between £2,000 and £4,000 to fix the BMW. Great! They wanted to sell me mechatronics units over the phone without even looking at my car! Psychic powers no doubt. Now, I don’t like paying retail for anything, especially to do with cars. If there’s a few quid to be saved, I’m usually at the front of the queue. I phoned Sussex Autos ( www.sussexautos.co.uk ), and told them that I had a ZF6HP26 equipped car that kept dropping in and out of torque converter lock-up, and asked if they have experience of this. The reply was “We refurbish loads of these as it affects so many different vehicles, the lining of the TC lock-up clutch wears out. In fact, we do so many that we’ve designed a modified clutch lining so that it doesn’t go again.†Gearboxes and TC’s are all they do! Sadly, they didn’t have one on the shelf and I didn’t want to take mine off, send it, wait, get it sent back etc... I wanted to do the job in one hit. So I purchased a used TC (£60) and sent it to them. They arranged collection and I had it back within 48 hours, collected, refurbished and delivered with vat for £237.90. Job done. I bought 10 litres of ATF Lifeguard 6 (Meyle) from ebay for £120. I bought a transmission pump from a local motor factors (very funny as is looks like the mojo pump from Austin Powers). It was about £20. I paid a friend of my old man £150 in cash to remove the gearbox, prop and exhaust, change the TC over and replace the gearbox, exhaust and prop etc. He then drained and filled the gearbox as best he could to the ZF spec. Don’t think about doing this unless you have a ramp and transmission jack. It took him just one evening to do. I then had to take the car to a BMW Indie for 3 reasons; to clear all the faults (the transmission fault light came on), to adjust the selector mechanism as it didn’t go back exactly, and to check the transmission fluid level. He insisted that the car should be run on a ramp, in gear, for an hour to purge and bleed the system. He was right as it took a bit more fluid. He charged £120. So, there you go, around the £700 mark but I’m hoping to get a little back for my old TC so should come in at around £650. Excellent as it coincided with a £600 tax rebate! I hope that my experience can help someone else save a few grand too. And if anyone wants my old TC, it’s here in my garage (Leicestershire), £60 to take it away…… Richard.
  9. Hello all, I’m new to the forum but not new to BMW having owned in the past; an e34 M5, e34 525tds touring, e39 525tds touring, e39 530d touring, 735i, 750iL, a manual 2.8 Z3 amongst others. I thought I’d share my ownership experience having now owned an e61 535d for 6 months. This might help someone who is thinking about buying a 535d. I paid the princely sum of £5,800 privately in March 2013 for the touring with 140k on the clock. It had already been remapped (to 320bhp / 500 ft-lb) and had the DPF removed when I purchased it. Economy is great. I’ve averaged around 32mpg during my ownership and I’m a very un-economical driver rarely accelerating at less than half throttle (usually full throttle). I tend to cruise at over the speed limit on the motorway. Performance is pretty good; I don’t recall ever being overtaken when I didn’t want to be. It’s a much quicker car than for example, an old e34 M5 that I used to have. I’ve taken it to Santa Pod and did 10 runs. I had one target – be the fastest diesel of the day (easily was!). Every run was identical at 14.6 seconds and 96mph. I’m sure that in manual mode with the traction off these figures could be easily bettered. However, owning a 535d is all about riding the torque. In terms of comfort, it’s not a patch on a W211 E-class (I’m sorry guys but it just isn’t) however, dynamically, it’s well in front of an equivalent Mercedes or Audi. I made sure that I purchased a car without run-flat tyres. Space inside is pretty good, particularly the rear leg-room. I’m a reasonably competent ‘home-mechanic’ so do most mechanical and servicing work myself. What’s gone wrong? Lots of smoke on start-up from cold. Fixed with new glow-plugs and a glow-plug control unit (not the easiest or quickest of jobs to do).Water pump seizing and throwing the belts off. Fortunately this happened not far from my house. Fixed with new pump and thermostats while I was in there (main and EGR). To do this job, you’ll need a stretch-belt tool (a new one on me).SAT NAV not reading disk. Not bothered to fix – the free SAT NAV on my iphone is amazing.iDrive playing up – not fixed yet, works intermittently and randomly and also frequently mutes the radio. It’s really annoying.The torque converter kept dropping in and out of lock-up when cruising – the usual 535d fluctuating revs issue. Fixed with a reconditioned TC from Sussex Autos, just over £200. What else I’ve done for prevention of future issues: Thoroughly clean EGR valve (I’d blank it off but I know the car will throw a light on and / or default to limp mode).Changed all vacuum pipes (turbos etc.) to silicone.Gearbox flush and filter.Swirl flaps removed with PMW blanks.Disabled exhaust flap.Really good service with all fluids and filters.Fitted modified oil breather etc. Would I buy another one? Yes, but I’d carefully check the TC on a decent drive first. Things that have gone wrong are mileage related and only really cost me the parts which, surprisingly, are cheap enough. Despite initial appearances, it’s quite an easy car / engine to work on. I’m not sure if you can actually get a better blend of space / practicality / refinement / comfort / economy and performance than an e61 535d. Seriously, when I’ve had enough, I don’t know what I’ll replace it with! Oh hang on, W211 E55 estates are less than £10k now… real shame they won’t do over 20mpg…….boooo......
  10. rnhobbs

    Help --- RMP ---- E60 535d (272 hp )

    It's the torque converter lock-up clutch that's worn out. I had this with my 2005 535d. I bought a used TC and sent it to Sussex Autos to get it refurbished, they do so many of these ZF TC's that they actually fit a modified TC lock up clutch to stop it going again. Collected, refurbished and delivered it cost me a little over £200. I bought some fluid, downloaded the ZF filling spec. and paid a mate £150 to do the work. Happy with the result, no more fluctuating revs and a bargain over the initial £2,000+ vat that a local indie quoted me. I've got my old TC that I'm happy to sell if someone wants to get it refurbished.