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RosieE39/2 last won the day on March 6 2016

RosieE39/2 had the most liked content!

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About RosieE39/2

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    E39 530i Touring Sport

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  1. Have you considered these?
  2. Your radio unit in the boot (BM54) will be playing up. Unplug the connector for it (under the NS taillight) check that the taillight seal hasn't been leaking water unto the plug, reconnect it and that should fire it back into life.
  3. I just had a thought. If the bulb in the inner light which should be a H8:- Has been replaced with aftermarket LEDs, It won't light up the inner light as a daytime driving light - only the angel eyes. It's easy to access - under the cover on the top of the headlight:-
  4. With the car running and the headlights on A, turn on the left indicator and turn full lock to the left. Does the left inner light turn on?
  5. It depends on the year model and headlight option as to what they do. They may do daytime driving light, They may do cornering light, Or they may do SFA!
  6. It will deploy the passenger airbag if and when the driver's airbag is deployed.
  7. Yes, the hot check will still be active and work. In practice what that means is that it won't tell you there's a bulb out until you turn on the lights. Same as fitting resistors except there's no mess of wires and boxes that potentially get hot and melt.
  8. Can you feel it through the brake pedal at low speed (10mph) lightly braking on a very smooth road? That's when you will feel brakes that have deposits on them. Years ago I had an E21 Alpina A4S with an M30 stuffed in it that had an intermittent violent steering wheel shake when braking from 60mph that eventually turned out to be the Falken tyres on it.
  9. And BMW pads? Try taking the discs off and cleaning the mating surface and spigot of the wheel bearing flange and disc. Also check for any play in the ballpoints by not only wobbling them at straight ahead, but at both full locks as well as squeezing the ballpoints together with big multigrips and prying them apart with a bar. Any slight wear in the ballpoints will accentuate the shudder.
  10. I don't think the E39 is any more susceptible than any big BMW from the E23 on that has the double pivot front suspension. It is a design that gives a huge amount of steering feel, so if there's any wear, play, imbalance etc., it is felt immediately by the driver. As far as cementite goes, my experience is that low quality discs and pads are way more susceptible. I'm a big fan of Textar Pro - I've never had one issue and I've fitted hundreds of sets. I can't say the same for other name brands like ATE or even Pagid.
  11. The short answer is that this rarely works as the problem is actually cementite. This article gives a fantastic explanation of it:-
  12. Resistors are a band aid solution. The reason you get a warning when retrofitting Xenons (OEM or aftermarket) to a car with halogens is because the cold bulb check is active. Xenon LCM's don't have cold check turned on for low beam due to the way Xenon's work. As Clavurion has said, you can't fit a Xenon LCM to a car that doesn't have automatic aim control so the best option is to code the cold check to off. This package (no affiliation - searched scanner 1.4) does it very easily (tick boxes):- It's also cheaper than resistors, as well as a scanner that will read faults and you then also have the option to code other things if you so wish.
  13. There's a pair on fleabay at the moment:-
  14. Yes
  15. K bus wire colour is always a white, with a red trace and a yellow stripe. (WS/RT/GE)