jinsta

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About jinsta

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    bmw e60 53od

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  1. Sorry for delay! Ok so tried the 40mph test with maf plugged in. failed, does same thing....with maf disconnected, kicks in at 1500 opposed to 2k revs, pulls better, but still have the blip Maf plugged in, tried unplugging map sensor..immedietely idled worse. plugged in map....instantly reverting back to running ok - not gonna mess with and conclude map sensors ok (its fairly new anyway) Bit depressed with all this, but new bosch maf and hella boost pipe temp sensor arrived yesterday I should have fitted one and at a time really but swapped both and its deffo improoved things. bit of 'lag' i guess is still present, but so far no more blip of nothing happening occuring...its just progressive delivery. It does pull harder too, but i'm little bit dubius this may just be the maf adjusting itself Previously i've used a launch diogostics unit to reset the maf adaptations...but cant get this anymore, so is there any way to do on inpa or similar. By not resetting it....will it just sort itself out? how long does this take Will put some miles on and see if stays the same... Got my sceondary zorst temp sensor today too, so will try get that in too. Kinda covers mostly everything being tried
  2. Kind of one of the problems...no engine fault codes present. It was the same last time my MAF went, no codes as such but evident not working (If left unplugged, triggers eng mangt light and codes mind) Could be temp related as notticed it feels touch more bogged down on warmer days I've ordered another boost pipe temp sensor as the one i received was wrong type, will see if that makes any difference The only other temp sensor i have not changed is the second 02 temp one found on box 2 of zorst system (with box 1 being CAT downpipe where 02 main and 02 temp sensors are new) - this has not flagged any errors or anything mind? are these pront to fail too? (only replaced other two as fitted new downpipe so added new sensors) Does torque converter offer error codes at all? Not sure how i can test it
  3. Had a cracked mani in past so was flipped to cast jobby few years back. When i changed turbo (3-4mths back), fitted new oem gaskets for block and for the egr cooler blank. No fumes in the cabin and bay has no signs of soot etc like when my original cracked. The lack of dpf/cat/silencer does make the zorst fumes quite smelly, even when running on the spot...smell whiffs to front, but not noticible on the go and isnt leaking via zorst system
  4. Think swirlflaps can be ruled out as any intitial lag they caused kinda dissapeared after first remap and it has run loads better then what its like now with them fitted - prob with mods, I do wonder if any have loosenened or are creating a leak...but had inlet off 3mths back and all were secure. Originally siliconed them in alongside the screws that hold them...so think they are still all good Intercooler is a bigger forge racing unit (originally designed for a F20/135i as no e60 options back then) and has no evident leaks...i've air pressure tested this and was solid. The IC boost pipes use the oem fixtures on engine side, but on the intercooler end...oem hoses were replaced for ash silicone hoses that go into billet F20 couplings (then can use oem f20 seal and ic clips. removal process remains unchanged)...all pipework has had oem seals replaced, silicone paste at joints, decent jubeli clips etc....the only one that showed wear was the egr hose and changed this for new one over the weekend I cant easily reverse now to test, but have had this setup quite a few years now and whilst bigger IC deffo introduced some lag when fitted it, but was kinda still a progressive boost curve (albeit slower start ) that just got stronger....the 'lag' i have now feels like a little flat blip in acceleration. Just ordered new Bosch MAF to rule that out as just out of warranty on existing one (efffing July) - this cars a money pit
  5. So did oil and new egr elbow/top boost hose. I think my old seal was due a change as the difference in force requied to push new elbow and seal in was quite allot, this new tighter seal has made a small improvement but overall issues still present. The temp sensor i got didnt fit although used pn via real oem, mines a older style twist one so will get another. old one looked ok mind. The turbo on this one has a electronic actuator so no vac line in and is new (turbos a fresh garrett unit, 3mths old) and is moving as it should. no adjustments on these so are just plug and play Pres do have a presure control module for vac lines postioned rear of inlet...but this has been changed too Torque Convertor - tbh i have thought about that but dont seem to have any of the usual symptoms. no bouncy revs or sloppy gear changing....is there any specific tests i can do/have done to rule this in/out? i have had gearbox sump and oil renewed in ownership too btw. Above torque converter, is there still a clutch plate of sort in these?
  6. Fuel filter was changed within last 12mths Also done. Inlet manifold, zorst manifold gaskets cat decat downpipe with new temp/main o2 sensors all zorst gaskets Few jobs being done on weekend, but not sure will help Oil was last done in april when new turbo fitted, but i'm flushing again over the weekend (waste i know, but its cheaper stuff then i would norm use) new egr boost elbow hose being fitted as popped off recently (I've clamped back on for now and no leak, but hose has had it really) boost pipe coolant temp sensor will be changed too (no idea why i have not done that one before really, but want to cross that off) Really cant think of what else i have not tried
  7. Worth updaing that sorted the loud level issue. Had to code the m-ask unit to be 'HIFI', opposed to default 'Stereo' and that chops the output level by about half so lets me let the amp do more work and sounds allot cleaner. The warning bongs etc also needed coding to output at a lower level (theres actually about half a dozen levels to choose from and can be set after main outputs been set). Thats levels sorted! A new issue however is when i turn gains up high, i geta 'static hiss' sound. This doesnt go up/down with volume, stays constant. No change in sound when driving (alt whine etc) Have redone grounds/all wiring on amp side and makes no diff. If i unplug rca, static noise goes away...so its a rca loom back problem of sort is it possible the head unit neads a better ground? or if it needs a loop back to my amp ground point. bit baffled Another issue i have notticed that even on full fade to rears...i still have some sound being outputted to front chanels. weird one, although fades always set 50/50 so not noticible One other thing that bothers me is i unpluged the factory underseat sub, ran a seperate wire to input the subs to me crossovers....but does the underseat oem wiring need a 'loop' or anything now? or is being left unplugged ok like?
  8. Trying to track down an issue with boost I guess on my 530d If I drive slowly, it’s hardly noticeable…so allowing a more progressive acceleration…but I do like to plant it allot and really shouldn’t have a blip in power like this. Just feels laggy pre 2k revs and then pulls like train throughout rest of range…evident on upshift till it peaks over 2k again too ☹ It’s a pre-lci so don’t have a turbo pressure converter, has an electronic turbo actuator and that’s now new (old one was tested and ok too) – already done following: swirl flap/egr/egr cooler, cat/dpf/backbox deleted Crank case breather/map sensor, vac pressure convertor, ic pipework seals, vac lines...all been replaced air filter ok No faults on diagnostics New turbo/actuator aftermarket bigger intercooler oil pressure ok compression check done and ok injectors tested/refurbished whilst out/new seals fitted Replaced MAF with Bosch one two years back , but I’ve spotted is whilst have lag pre 2k now…unplugging it reduces the issue to 1.5k when removed I’ve had issue for a while and doesn’t get worse or anything…but bugging the hell out of me. If you have a manual car and clutch going…it’s that same delayed feeling of acceleration…saying that, it’s an auto box…they still have a clutch of sort, could this be effed? I don’t think its torque convertor as its nice through gears and have null fluctuating or anything Any ideas?
  9. pre lci downpipe (so cat only box) slides straight down without touching rack. I'd presume lci is same as doesnt look far off in size
  10. not sure how to do it with inpa, if anyone can advise please outline process.Used the reset maf adapatations on a Launch diognostic machine before but no longer have access
  11. dpf poss blocked
  12. Thought I’d update this one…got round to completing my little install So front doors (LCI Doorcards) = Depth Approx 49mm Front door/mirror area Tweeters = 1” fitted fine Rear Shelf = Depth Approx 75mm Rear Shelf Tweeters = loads of room. 1” fitted but needed padding For the aftermarket 4”, just one tab needs cutting back, two line up fine….one needs modding: Gladen loom Additional Used three way components so with front speakers, I disconnected the factory under seat wiring and ran my own wires from crossover (under the door panel) to the under seat subs. Easy enough really, the factory boot inbetween body and car needs to be undone (8mm nut I think it was), carpet area on side foot well lifted and then you have plenty of space to work with and pass straight through. My crossover boxes fit perfect in the door card…but the lids had to be dismissed as depth became too high (not a biggie). To make life easier later when removing door cards, I bought and wired up a few connector blocks for my new speaker wiring from door (tweets, underseats, main feed) to doorcard (mids, crossover box) All works well and I capped frequency from amp so not to overwork any bass being outputted. Basically now have a 8 speaker setup, decent mids and high ts…and generally more defined bass. At some point will run a proper sub in the boot, but happy enough for now Potential issue One thing I have noticed is the warning bongs, parking senor noises etc are all amplified now too. Not ideal this so need to work out if the lvels at all can be adjusted
  13. Thanks for the response Dennis! I'm taking the traditional route, nowt flashy...but enough to hopefully sound nice enough Just got two sets of 4" inPhase component mids (XTC4CX), but bit unsure they will fit now (they state about 50mm mounting depth). Shelf i 'think' will be fine, but worried about window clearance up front Need to sort adaptor rings for the door speakers too so hope these dont add much unall Pending all fits, will slap in a couple of tweeter sets and juice up with 4ch amp + gladen 4ch loom.....sub and amp to then follow in boot. Should sound ok. Im on the poverty 6spk setup so can only get better
  14. Ok hopefully just a quick one! Can anyone confirm the max depth we can use for front door/rear shelf aftermarket 4" speakers ? Ta in advance!
  15. Yes, turns out the turbo was caked with carbon and needed to be rebuilt (i just replaced in end)(the actuator was tested and prooved fine mind)