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About KingOfTheHill

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    E39 540i/6 Touring

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  1. My mechanic almost stopped talking to me after I got him to do my touring rear balljoints. I'd seen the saloon tutorial and thought it looked OK, but the touring is apparently much, much harder. FWIW my squeak has returned about a year on, but this time it's looking like one of the other bushes rather than the balljoints.
  2. I also had a nightmare tracking down a faulty expansion tank cap. OEM all the way on that one.
  3. Hello - apologies for the tiny order, but at least you'll only need a 2nd class stamp to post them. I need a pair of washer / seal thingys - 2x part number 07119963355 Thanks in advance.
  4. Would appreciate pics when you have them - particularly the areas of the tailgate that are usually rusty.
  5. Has anyone actually replaced their M62 rocker covers with new? I had the gaskets replaced a while back, but they leaked again quite quickly. The diagnosis was that the mating faces of the covers were corroding and would never seal properly. As a cheaper option, can the covers be sanded down / professionally refurbed / bodged with silicone?
  6. If it's on the original shocks that would be my first suggestion too. I found OEM-spec Sachs units at a very good price from a UK seller on eBay.
  7. If you get cold hands in the winter or a bit sweaty in summer, they can be a great help. I'm not under any illusions about them looking cool though.
  8. Have a look at this thread:
  9. I did one of mine this weekend, and learnt some things that will make the second one a bit easier. I used the keyhole surgery method, and it wasn't bad at all. UK headlights have the extra access hole for the LHD / RHD dip beam lever which makes it simple to get the largest adjuster in and out with forceps. I also had problems with the adjustment screws letting go. The new adjuster components don't have threads cut in them, and I think the effort of turning the screw to cut the threads was enough to break the grip of knobs. For the next one, I'll cut a slot in the end of the adjusting screw with a Dremel, and use a screwdriver in that for the initial setting up. After that's done, there should be much less strain on the knobs. I'd strongly recommend the following: Good quality replacement adjusters: Long T15 Torx key: Long curved locking forceps (make it so much easier): And while the lights are off the car, give the lenses a polish: I followed this YouTube tutorial:
  10. I've got BZ05027 here in Bristol, and I know there's another one within a couple of miles. There's also one in Cirencester (I think), both owned by forum members. Mine's used most days, and occasionally for more demanding trips - here it is near Scotch Corner at sunrise on the longest day this year, when a friend and I attempted to race the overnight sleeper from Euston to Glasgow.
  11. I've got the E60 545i lever and a short gearknob. It's great when everything is warmed up, but as others have said it's pretty unpleasant for the first few miles until the gearbox has some heat in it. As with everything, it's a compromise - your choice will depend on what kind of driving you do. As an alternative, you could renew all the bushings in the linkage - that might tighten things up, but won't make the throw shorter.
  12. If it's a new tank, is it a new cap too? I had an intermittent slow leak with no real evidence of where it was going, and a new genuine cap sorted it out. Aftermarket turned out to be a false economy.
  13. Here's mine: It has the cats and Y-resonator, then a straight pipe replacing the 'scuba tanks'. No loss of power or torque - dyno'd last year at 300bhp / 375lb/ft. It's a bit anti-social on cold starts and does drone a little at constant revs. A custom system would probably do a better job, but for the £75 it cost I can live with it.
  14. How firm do you want the car to be? I bought a set of Bilstein B6s for the rear of my Touring to match the B8s on the front and they really sharpened up the handling, but were just a little too firm for me. After a couple of thousand miles I changed them for Sachs OEM Sport ones and they suit me better. One day I'll get my act together and put the B6s on eBay.
  15. OE BMW discs (from Cotswold again) and Ferodo DS2500 pads here, and I'm very happy with the results. The previous Mintex 1144 pads worked well too, and were usefully cheaper. Basically any pad that comes in a box with 'NOT FOR ROAD USE' written on it is what you need. I've also got braided hoses but opinion seems divided on how much difference they make. Don't forget to keep up with the fluid changes.