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corripeter

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About corripeter

  • Rank
    Peter
  • Birthday 07/11/1960

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Milton Keynes
  • Interests
    Stuff
  • Occupation
    Electronic Engineer

Garage

  • Garage
    2011 BMW 520D F11

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  1. My 2011 F11 520D SE (N47 engine) is now up to 174K with no timing chain issues, ......my previous 2008 E61 520D (also an N47 engine) got to 200K before I sold it with no Timing Chain issues. I religiously change the Oil every 10K and fit anew Oil filter every 20K.....both cars were 4 years old and had 130K on them when I bought them. So in my opinion, if you take the wise "preventative maintenance" approach................There's no need to stress over having a N47 lump under your bonnet. NB: I don't even have to get under the car, as I use a Sealey Vacuum Extractor to suck the oil out through the dipstick...........This way you get most of it out and whats left get regularly diluted with fresh new oil. I use GM Dexos 2 5W30 Oil @ £20 for 5 litres..............and Mahle Oil Filters, which usually cost ~ £9 each..............Simples....... PS: My First BMW Diesel was an E46 320D which I took up to 385K Miles before I moved it on ...only due to wheelarch rust bubbles... Peter.
  2. iDrive, PRO-NAV, GPS Decoding no longer working

    The SAtNav system will use Vehicle speed and Steering angle signals as back up info when the GPS data is missing....this method is referred to as "dead reckoning"....So yes it is kind of correct that the ABS wheel speed sensors are used to generate the vehicle speed and trajectory info, however really this just to cover times when GPS Signals are not being received such as inside long tunnels. Peter.
  3. iDrive, PRO-NAV, GPS Decoding no longer working

    Finally Fixed: Okay.....My next Installment, to help anyone else who trips over this thread in the future trying to fix their similar issue. I tracked down a genuine BMW F11 Antenna assembly from eBay, and along with a short Blue FAKRA female/female lead (ebay again) installed the antenna assembly under the dash-top centre speaker grill, which it fits into perfectly. Hooked the cable into replace the stock Roof top antenna coax cable, and started up the Headunit NAV Screen......Sadly still Stuck in France, even after 15 minutes stationary & waiting no position movement.......So I Re-installed the headunit and then took it for a short test drive, and after ~ 1Km she jumped into the English Channel momentarily...then back to jolly old Blighty....Milton Keynes in fact....Perfect because that's where I was. Since then no issue seen, everything seems to be working just fine............ So the Moral of the Story is/are: 1) The Nav system may need you to actually move some distance before it will correct a displayed position error & 2) A decent genuine BMW antenna still works for the under dash location, looking up through the windscreen & speaker grill I thought about progressing on to the next stage of installing the good working antenna Assembly back into the stock rooftop location, but the risks of paintwork damage removing the bonded on cover are simply not worth the hassle. If your Audio system does not use the Dashtop Centre Speaker location, then it seems to be just as good a location for a GPS antenna as the roof. Peter.
  4. New alloy wheels Bmw F11

    Ryan, The Rear Offset is exactly the same as mine, at 44mm. So other than brake caliper & disk clearance which should also be fine , they will fit your car.. Peter.
  5. New alloy wheels Bmw F11

    Just dug the details out.....& here's what I have fitted: Front Wheels: 8Jx18 ET30 (p/n BMW 36117842650) Rear Wheels: 9Jx18 ET44 (p/n BMW 36117842651) Peter.
  6. New alloy wheels Bmw F11

    Yes Ryan, on my F11 520D there's no fitment issues with the rear 9J Rims, I cant recall the actual offset on my double spoke 18" 350M rims, but they look just fine on the car, if anything they're tucked inside so quite discrete. Since your Rear brake disks are slightly larger diameter, that's the only aspect which might need checking. I went from 245 to 275 wide rear tyres and found I lost a few MPG along the way... Peter
  7. iDrive, PRO-NAV, GPS Decoding no longer working

    Update, The car was just playing with me, and the original CIC Pro NAV problem returned one month later. Since then I have re-made the Blue Head unit connection and also the blue GPS Antenna FAKRA connector but sadly to no avail........ the NAV function has been "off picking daises" ever since then. In the meantime I am using Google Maps on my Smart-phone when I need route guidance, which to be honest is a pretty good alternative. But....Now that the good weather is here I am planning to remove the shark fin cover and swap out the multiple Fin antenna assembly for another one sourced from a F11. Reading up on the task, managing to remove the bonded down Fin plastic cover without scratching the roof paintwork.....looks to be a barrel laughs, but since my BMW GPS map now says I'm in Northern France I'd better fix it before Brexit kicks in..... This post is really just a "prod" to see if anyone else has suffered the same CIC Professional NAV fate as me...........Deep down I still suspect the problem is in the Head Unit itself, but the engineer in me says "you can fix it with parts swapping". Peter.
  8. New alloy wheels Bmw F11

    Hi Ryanbuck, I have a 520D F11 SE with the staggered 9J wide MSport F10 rear rims fitted (275/40/18 tyres), there are no spacers req'd and all offset clearance is just fine. Not sure if the rear disks on your 535D would create a problem which I don't see .. Peter.
  9. iDrive, PRO-NAV, GPS Decoding no longer working

    A further update: So I opted to try an aftermarket active GPS antenna from eBay..certainly worth trying as they are pretty cheap, however no difference seen even after leaving it powered on for 20 mins or so. So I reconnected the OEM GPS antenna and reconciled myself to having to track down someone who can repair it. After 3 more days of no GPS, whilst I was driving into work it magically started to work again, and has been working fine ever since........ So all I know is that I have an intermittent SAT-NAV system. I've used if for route guidance a few times to see if I can induce any SW related failures......however all is still working as it should. I am inclined to believe its a faulty solder joint on the PCB section related to GPS signal Processor....not perfect but possibly repairable when it next kicks in..........Which innevitably will be tomorrow after I have posted this update this evening....... Dooooohhh. Peter
  10. iDrive, PRO-NAV, GPS Decoding no longer working

    Hi Kingwear, Yes there is a blue antenna connector for the GPS antenna, although the F series version is slightly different to the E series one which you show in your image. I know for sure that as far back as the CCC iDrives the GPS receiever module is included within the Head Unit , it is often referred to as the HIP Module (Host Independant positioning). It is whether anyone on the forum has any knowledge of who can test/repair these circuiry sections that I'm trying to ascertain. Regards, Peter.
  11. iDrive, PRO-NAV, GPS Decoding no longer working

    The GPS antenna is in the shark fin....but the circuitry which interprets the GPS data is inside the CIC Pro-NAV head unit..........It's this which needs repairing... Peter
  12. Hi, I'm looking for advice on what to do next: The car is a 2011 F11 with Pro-Nav, 4 days ago the Navigation map function started showing the wrong location for the vehicle...is was off by ~50 miles. when driven, the location moved...so it was just using the last known direction and the wheel speed information only...i.e no GPS data being received. this weekend I pulled the main head unit out and "re-made" the GPS entenna connection just in case it was a bad connection but still no success. I'm reconciled to a head unit repair to the GPS Decoder function.............So has any other forum member got any advice/experience of this issue previously. I'm looking for a UK repairer... Peter.
  13. sat nav map update

    Hi, If you mention which area you are in, then some kind soul may be able to loan you a USB pen drive already loaded with latest map files, then you just need to get a FSC cocde from ebay vendor for ~£10 just now. Peter.
  14. Heavy rain, Water leak

    Hi, Sorry to hear your bad news....... If you also have water droplets/puddling on the rear door plastic kickplates, then I'm pretty sure the door is the source of the water. Get them to replace the Butyl Seal and check/replace the door membrane too as a sensible starting point as this is a pretty common problem area with an F10/F11 of this age. Peter.
  15. Heavy rain, Water leak

    Whilst not having water in the rear footwells, I have been progressively chasing a solution to water collecting on the rear door kick plates which annoyed me. When I first got the car the, my offside was exhibiting the problem, and then after an ambient lighting retrofit which involved temporarily removing both rear door membranes, I ended up with puddlling on both sides....Doh... So I tried the hot air gun approach...... but it did not completely fix the problem...just reduced it a bit. So off with the door cards again......and i have now completely fixed both sides by renewing the black mastik material used. The stuff I used is a butyl sealant strip, which I got from eBay for ~£7 for 8 metres: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Butyl-Tape-Strip-Bolt-On-Panel-Sealer-Bonding-Vans-Cars-Roof-Fish-Pond-Liner-/221224948406?hash=item338208d2b6:g:n2sAAOSwfcVUGYyj For me the problem area is lowest point on the membrane bottom edge...there's a definite U section where the water is meant to collect and thenpass through a hole in the metalwork back into the door cavity. The original BMW Butyl mastik in this area fails to adhere to the foam material over time and the water passing over the gap deposits silt/dust which means the "tackines" is totally lost. So heres a quick how to... 1) remove Door card, described elsewhere 2) Using a new Stanley knofe blade, carefully peel back and cut through the existing mastik material leaving rouhly 50% on both the door and the membrane, take care to keep these freshly cut surfaces clean to retain their tackiness. 3) Use a plastic scraper to remove the failed/damaged section of mastik, I replaced the whole bottom edge run whilst I was at it..... Brake cleaner helps to remove the old residues and help to also clean the backside of the foam plastic membrane....equally important to do this also... 4) Replace the removed Mastik section with fresh new Butyl strip from the one you get from Coralgraph (eBay shop)..it's bit thicker than original but thats fine here. 5) carefully reassemble the membrane using the 2 location "bulged" features on it....I used a wallpaper seam roller to gently force it down all the way around again...obviously keeping everything clean and dry will help with good adhesion. 6) Replace the door card again..and then one more important job...... 7) Inspect the inner rubber door seal, it is holllow and will have typically filled with water/mud etc. use your finger to squeeze out all remaing water from it...mine had loads in it. I guess it fills up as a by-product of the lower membrane edge seal having failed....but the jury's still out on this one. So 2 weeks on, and after many days of heavy rain I am still bone dry on my new M Sport Kick Plates..halelujiah... So if you are experiencing the rear footwells filling up...this is good place to start. Peter.
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