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BarryM

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BarryM last won the day on August 7 2018

BarryM had the most liked content!

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About BarryM

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    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    South coast

Garage

  • Garage
    Alpina B10 V8

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  1. BarryM

    My sound system upgrade

    Hi Richard, I’ve decided to replace my DSP with the PXA-H100 so need an amp as well. I’d prefer a stealth install so does the Rockford Fosgate PBR300x4 give the performance and not get too hot? A few reviews state the amp runs very hot and where you’ve installed it there’s no airflow.
  2. BarryM

    ai net breakout box

    .
  3. BarryM

    Innovadrive NXG-39 / OEM look Double DIN Fascia

    Nice work Dennis, it looks like a top quality product. As you know I’m an Intravee man (and still have the Lumidock I bought off you years ago), in fact I’ve just bought an Alpine PXA-H100 so might need some sub help in the near future However if I was in the market for a double DIN fascia I’d be ordering one of these, all the best with your new venture, Barry
  4. BarryM

    copper grease vs ceramic grease

    Live and learn, my old Jap & German bikes didn’t come to any harm using copaslip but I guess times and technology move on. One interesting thing is I also use copaslip between the alloy wheel and steel hub so will be changing that! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. BarryM

    copper grease vs ceramic grease

    Well I was always told it was an anti seize so stopped the spark plugs stripping the thread in the head on removal and I never stripped one.....guess my motorbikes didn’t have aluminium heads Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. BarryM

    copper grease vs ceramic grease

    That’s interesting but nothing to do with spark plugs
  7. BarryM

    copper grease vs ceramic grease

    So after 30 years of putting copaslip on my spark plug threads I need to stop?
  8. BarryM

    Alpine PXA-H100

    Hi Richard, I’ve picked up a PXA-H100 as I’d like to replace the OEM DSP. I’m hoping you’re still willing to make a break out box if you have time?
  9. BarryM

    Wanted. SES Jumper plug.

    I couldn’t find one in 2014 when I was installing my Bluetooth......if I remember correctly the SES plug just connects a couple of wires together so it’s not really necessary
  10. BarryM

    2003 Headlight adjusters

    Hi Kevin, I might go with metal adjusters when I open my 2001 lights up to fit bi-xenons, I’ve seen 2 types but I think CA Automotive are the ones best known so did you get those - very expensive! Surprised you haven’t managed to successfully polish your lenses but guess it depends how bad they are, I used the 3M kit on mine about 6 years ago and after fitting some 3M type film they still look great today I plan to get a new 3M kit to polish up my 2003 lights and fit them to the car while I strip my 2001 lights down. I’m not 100% sure which b-xenons to go with yet as I would prefer a better low beam given that’s how I use the lights most and until recently I think the choices were EvoX-R or FX-R and this site has some useful info: https://www.retrofitlab.com/ However recently DerekJr on this board posted up after fitting some Morimoto MINI D2S 4.0 in his car and I met up to compare lighting, here’s his thread: There are also a couple of options on wiring in the mains for the flash function so that needs to be worked out, apparently OEM is for the xenons to provide low and main beam lighting with the halogen ‘main’ just used for the flash function which seems a bit of a waste (and needs an LCM IV fitted). Most people just use a splitter to make both main beams run together. I’ll post up when I eventually get round to this but no idea when that will be.
  11. BarryM

    2003 Headlight adjusters

    After breaking one of my headlight adjusters by just trying to remove a xenon bulb decided it was time to bite the bullet and replace with new. I have 2 sets of facelift headlights – the car’s are from 2001 so the lenses should come off but the spare set I bought with the intention of fitting bi-xenons were from 2003 (lying ebay seller) so couldn’t be baked – there’s a manufacture date stamp on the headlights between the indicator and low beam fittings on the rear! According to a couple of posts I’ve seen 7/02 is the date when headlights went from butyl which can be opened and RTV which can’t. As I had 03 headlights I decided to try replacing those first from the back and as many have said one is easy and one is not so easy..........the above post is pretty useful so I’ll just add a couple of observations: The adjusters are very brittle and break up into many pieces (I think mine might have been original), here's a look at how brittle - I did do a bit more damage getting them out of the socked they fit into: You definitely need a long T15 screwdriver and forceps make this much easier than long nose pliers Getting to the hard adjuster is much easier when you remove the cap on top of the lens that switches the beam when you go abroad The eBay adjusters aren’t threaded so first time you screw into them is a bit tight (especially if the plastic cog on the end of the screw has broken off) Make sure you’ve removed all remnants of old adjuster, I had a bit left on one of the screws but couldn’t see it without a mirror so got a bit pissed as I continually tried to screw a new adjuster in! One eBay seller sells the plastic adjusters and 2 wheels which really helped me: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323637497824?ViewItem=&item=323637497824 I’ve re-fitted my original lights but will polish the 03 lights and then swap over and open up the 01 lights to fit some bi-xenons later this year. That's another E39 job off the list
  12. BarryM

    One of my bulbs has gone pink!

    I think they get that way over the years, no idea if mine had ever been replaced before so possibly original. I think it was only the second time in my 6 year ownership I'd tried to remove the bulbs and it happened as soon as I tried to twist the red connector. At least it's another job off the list
  13. BarryM

    One of my bulbs has gone pink!

    Be cautious as you twist the red connector as that action was enough to break one of my adjusters
  14. Fair point but I particularly like how this method keeps the E38 lever and adjustment so you can stop the armrest at any point in its travel, quite a lot of effort for a relatively minor improvement but very satisfying in the end.
  15. Thought I'd update a very old thread that some people might not have seen........I recently fitted E38 armrests in the front and back of the car: This one slides as well as having storage under the armrest and the larger cubby hole underneath, it doesn't really provide much storage but can slide further forward and is a nicer place to rest your arm : I also fitted one in the back: I can't take any credit for working out how they fit as I just followed Ger's guide here (BTW - Ger's thread is worth reading from the beginning but the armrest stuff is around September 2014): Rear armrest is easy to do, front armrest is a real challenge and you need a friend with a milling machine!
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