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erv77

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Everything posted by erv77

  1. erv77

    How easy to change control arms?

    I've got the same job to do! Can't recall front control arm procedure, but I did buy the Meyle HD complete arm with bush already in place - wasn't expensive - not sure if it does away with ball joint tool. Bought Meyle for rears and the special tool (was £20 for tool) - the bessian Systems procedures are very detailed - google to find them. I'll have to do them as seems my local indy has no time to help fix an old SE touring!
  2. Hi All, December 2000 face lift e39 touring SE with SLS (530i) - it's on 150k and I've done loads to it, but have more plans! Decided to keep the SE suspension spec as oposed to M-Tech or lowering it (I'll be putting some refurbed style 95 so may be crashy enough!). Asked Cotswold for quotes! Font and Rear Shockers - £986.03 - Front Springs - £161.56 - Rear Air Springs - £489.36 - Front and Rear Top mounts - £206.02 - M5 Rear ARB - £205.43 - Rad Cap - £14.77 - Vent Hose - £30.36 - MAF - £303.56 Thought their pricing was ambitious - where can I find OEM quality shocks, air springs and top mounts from? I've got Myele HD front control arms to go on, also Myele rear bottom bushes (have fitted lemforder rear subframe bushes - thanks Ron). and I may poly bush the ARB to tighten it up a bit (ideally an M5 rear ARB but hard to find). Anything else I should do to refresh the suspension? Recently done the CCV, Disa a while ago. I've sourced rocker cover that hadn't overheated and have a vanos kit with gaskets, etc. whilst I'm in there I'll do the cooling system and I've got Hella Viscous coupling and expansion tank - where can I source all the required hoses from and an expansion tank cap? I'll be doing a whole bunch of other stuff, but really want my suspension and engine sorted - any help appreciated!!
  3. Great price and they ship to UK (had to ask google to translate German!) - they also have the OEM springs for sensible money
  4. Great, thanks Clavurion - appreciate the links you found! I'll talk to me indy about the springs
  5. Hi All, have sourced a set of professionally refurbed style 95's - yes, I'm so far behind the curve on this! Was after style 37's but they all appear to be ambitiously priced (or knackered), and I do think the 95's look great on the touring and I'm hoping I can cope with the ride - I only do 3k a year and most of the roads I use are good. I think they look better if I can bring them out, i.e. fill the arches - so my question is, what size spacers do I need (not keen on reboring them), understand I need 'hubcentric' i.e. they fit the e39 hub and the 95's which aren't the correct hub size anyway. Any suggestions on make/brand and best place to get them. Also, as I'm not lowering the car, am I correct in assuming I won't need to roll my arches? What tyre sizes should I go for - I'm looking best fit, as opposed to stretched or super wide which may then rub? again, really appreciate any help/advice
  6. Gents, really appreciate the advice and help and I'm more than happy to hear people's opinions. You chaps are regulars on this forum and you've all spent a lot of your time helping me and others and making great contributions to this forum - so thank you! There's no doubt the touring looks great when lowered. From what I've read I think the ride may be too harsh for me, and I've also accepted that I'll try out the 95's and that I might change my mind in the future - for the time being I'm quite happy with normal height SE spec suspension. As I'll be refreshing it, it will feel like a new car to me. It's my daily driver and I'd rather have an e30 or e36 for a track car! I'm spending c.£5k getting it back together - it's served me well for 6 years and I couldn't bear to get rid of it (plus I'll never hear the end of it if I have two cars!).
  7. Hi, I's be interested in the front and back bumpers, along with the thin piece that sits under the O/S headlight (someone kindly drove into my car)? thanks
  8. erv77

    Latest verdict on CCV parts?

    What a pig of a job! Mine had split a pipe as I had oil on the drive (well, more than usual - it's an old beemer!). Did it without removing the inlet/manifold thing - not removing it made the 's' pipe that goes into the top of the CCV much more difficult - eventually figured out that the Meyle has a twist on system as opposed to snapping on, i.e. line it up at the correct angle and it slides on easy (considering you're pushing from the other site of the inlet) and twist till it stops and it's done! My kit came with the 6 O rings for the top of the inlet (distributor) - the old ones were flat and brittle. The new ones sat in their bag in a cup of hot water to help fitting. I could not unblock the small pipe that goes into the oil dip stick tube - tried wire, brake cleaner - I was stumped. In the end I took the pressure washer to it but I'm not convinced it did the job. Oh and I had one random loose connector (just below the plastic box that's attached under the upper boot) - it looked dirty inside suggesting it was never connected to anything - I could not find anywhere to plug it in so left if! Car runs fine now - no smoke, jittery revs, even pulls away better now. My old CCV system had done 149k and was blocked solid with mayo - the CCV just poured out beige liquid - well overdue!! Thanks to C3BMW for quick and well packed dispatch - I got the Meyle kit which seems good quality, I just can't figure out how some bits of plastic cost 80 squid!! The barge lives on!! Cheers the tips gents
  9. Hi All, Been a very long time since I've posted - but still have my 2001 530i touring, it's on 149k now (had it 6yrs!). I'll need to change my CCV: Reading mixed reviews about doing a CCV delete - anyone had a more positive, recent and effective solution? Else happy to change it. Read the usual 'must be OEM' and on flea bay it's £40 for cheapo kits and £80 for Febi/Myle kits (have also ask Cotswold for a quote). Any suggestions on the the most cost effective option that still performs to OEM standards? Thanks
  10. erv77

    Latest verdict on CCV parts?

    I used the i6 DISA repair kit - easy job and great kit (with useful instructions as I recall). Quite uncomfortable listening to the failed flap knocking about inside!! I am tempted by the delete, but I do need to get on with the job as I'm a tad overdue - I only do 3k miles a year and feel sorry for my e39 with the short trips to the station in this cold weather (I use a station further away so the engine gets to temp!). Plus I must be getting 8mpg!! My rocker cover is slightly warped (£300 for a new one and I see little point in a used one unless I can check it first). The oil leak is much worse at the mo. Did the gasket I reckon over 30k miles ago - will do it again and the vanos seals (yes, why haven't I done this sooner!!) Cheers guys
  11. erv77

    Latest verdict on CCV parts?

    Cheers for the tips guys. I may just plump for the cold weather version as I only do 5 miles to and from train station. No leaks from OFH - interestingly, I did oil change on wife's Volvo XC90 and pretty much the same OFH (slightly smaller filter!).
  12. erv77

    What Live in Here !

    good luck with it - have exact same issue - just ordered my i6 kit - love these cars but it's just one thing after the next!!
  13. erv77

    Battery drain tips pls

    Hi Mate, thanks for all your help on this. Turns out the battery was fine - it hadn't fully discharged and when it started I put it on charge in the garage. I was trying to work out how to test for abnormal drain and in the end I pulled both the FSU and the tow bar electrics fuse. No more drain. Plugged the FSU back in (as it's only a few months old and OEM) - no drain. Never towed and don't plan on it so not bothered about fixing the electrics - just leave the fuse out - hopefully I got lucky, but the car was sat for a week and fired up without hesitation!! thanks again
  14. erv77

    Battery drain tips pls

    2001 530i touring. Got the click from the starter motor, jump leads and it started fine. Battery is a year old. With engine off it was reading 11.26v when running I get 14v so not the alternator (must have been changed as sticker has 2009). Went for a drive, turned engine off battery reading 12.30v, cranked fine so I'm guessing it's a battery drain. I changed the FSU (and yes, OEM from C3BMW!) a few months ago. They say unplug it overnight, but in the cold, dark and uncomfortable 7 minutes it took me to unplug it, battery voltage dropped from 12.30v to 11.88v. Any ideas of suggestions mist welcome. On the plus side, my e39 last broke down over two years ago with a well overdue rad replacement!! Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
  15. erv77

    Battery drain tips pls

    Faulty battery, it's dead! Only 9mths old, listed as a BMW battery but they now tell me they wouldn't recommend fitting it to a beemer. Moral of the story don't but a powerline battery even if it has a 4yr guarantee, royal PITA as I have to send it back! Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
  16. erv77

    Battery drain tips pls

    True, it's the drain which more important and that's measured by amps. I'm not very techy so I'm dreading how I get the bottom of the issue! Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
  17. erv77

    Battery drain tips pls

    Cheers buddy, will try that. Since I've disconnected the FSU it has dropped from 11.88v to 11.35v so guessing something else is also draining the battery! Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
  18. fleaBay have these from £9 - £40 but I'm worried that a £40 one will perform as badly as a £9 one! BMW want £85 and bmwminiparts want £65! Can anyone recommend some vendors who are selling reliable FSU's at sensible prices???!! Cheers
  19. erv77

    FSU - who sells decent ones?

    cheers everyone - have plumped for a BEHR one from C3BMW - £48 inc. delivery. Febi ones were similar price, Meyle £40 but not heard good reports on those. Still - seems a lot of money for what they are, but at least I'll be able to clear the old windscreen (need to check out door vapour barriers - never a good sign when you have to use a squeegee on the inside of the windscreen!!!)
  20. erv77

    FSU - who sells decent ones?

    Cheers mate, will give them a shout Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
  21. erv77

    FSU - who sells decent ones?

    Cheers guys I get the buy cheap buy twice but by the same token oem prices are nuts. I should have asked, has anyone spotted good oem prices anywhere?!?!? Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
  22. I'm usually on the e39 part of the forum, but my brother-in-law has a 54 plate e60 525d touring. Sounds like he left the boot window slightly open when we had all that rain! He ended up with a portable paddling pool. Killed the battery. He's got it all dry now, and a new battery, only issue is that his OBC and Radio generally doesn't work, but does come on every now and again - any ideas? Cheers
  23. Well I've bought the £40 tool off ebay - apparently the threaded bar and nut are deemed consumables but will hopefully only do mine once and reckon good to sell on at a discount! Have also purchased Meyle rear ball joints and both front upper control arms - Meyle HD. Now to get them fitted!! Cheers for your help guys
  24. Hi all, been a while! I'll be replacing front and rear ball joints (2001 e39 530i Touring) and was wondering if anyone near Southampton has one or both of the specialist pullers needed for the job. Happy to rent if unwilling to lend! Thanks
  25. Cheers Gavin, they want £36 Inc postage and you can buy them for £40 although at that price they might only mange infrequent use! Cheers tho!
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