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erv77

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Everything posted by erv77

  1. Hi, I's be interested in the front and back bumpers, along with the thin piece that sits under the O/S headlight (someone kindly drove into my car)? thanks
  2. erv77

    Latest verdict on CCV parts?

    What a pig of a job! Mine had split a pipe as I had oil on the drive (well, more than usual - it's an old beemer!). Did it without removing the inlet/manifold thing - not removing it made the 's' pipe that goes into the top of the CCV much more difficult - eventually figured out that the Meyle has a twist on system as opposed to snapping on, i.e. line it up at the correct angle and it slides on easy (considering you're pushing from the other site of the inlet) and twist till it stops and it's done! My kit came with the 6 O rings for the top of the inlet (distributor) - the old ones were flat and brittle. The new ones sat in their bag in a cup of hot water to help fitting. I could not unblock the small pipe that goes into the oil dip stick tube - tried wire, brake cleaner - I was stumped. In the end I took the pressure washer to it but I'm not convinced it did the job. Oh and I had one random loose connector (just below the plastic box that's attached under the upper boot) - it looked dirty inside suggesting it was never connected to anything - I could not find anywhere to plug it in so left if! Car runs fine now - no smoke, jittery revs, even pulls away better now. My old CCV system had done 149k and was blocked solid with mayo - the CCV just poured out beige liquid - well overdue!! Thanks to C3BMW for quick and well packed dispatch - I got the Meyle kit which seems good quality, I just can't figure out how some bits of plastic cost 80 squid!! The barge lives on!! Cheers the tips gents
  3. Hi All, Been a very long time since I've posted - but still have my 2001 530i touring, it's on 149k now (had it 6yrs!). I'll need to change my CCV: Reading mixed reviews about doing a CCV delete - anyone had a more positive, recent and effective solution? Else happy to change it. Read the usual 'must be OEM' and on flea bay it's £40 for cheapo kits and £80 for Febi/Myle kits (have also ask Cotswold for a quote). Any suggestions on the the most cost effective option that still performs to OEM standards? Thanks
  4. erv77

    Latest verdict on CCV parts?

    I used the i6 DISA repair kit - easy job and great kit (with useful instructions as I recall). Quite uncomfortable listening to the failed flap knocking about inside!! I am tempted by the delete, but I do need to get on with the job as I'm a tad overdue - I only do 3k miles a year and feel sorry for my e39 with the short trips to the station in this cold weather (I use a station further away so the engine gets to temp!). Plus I must be getting 8mpg!! My rocker cover is slightly warped (£300 for a new one and I see little point in a used one unless I can check it first). The oil leak is much worse at the mo. Did the gasket I reckon over 30k miles ago - will do it again and the vanos seals (yes, why haven't I done this sooner!!) Cheers guys
  5. erv77

    Latest verdict on CCV parts?

    Cheers for the tips guys. I may just plump for the cold weather version as I only do 5 miles to and from train station. No leaks from OFH - interestingly, I did oil change on wife's Volvo XC90 and pretty much the same OFH (slightly smaller filter!).
  6. erv77

    What Live in Here !

    good luck with it - have exact same issue - just ordered my i6 kit - love these cars but it's just one thing after the next!!
  7. erv77

    Battery drain tips pls

    Hi Mate, thanks for all your help on this. Turns out the battery was fine - it hadn't fully discharged and when it started I put it on charge in the garage. I was trying to work out how to test for abnormal drain and in the end I pulled both the FSU and the tow bar electrics fuse. No more drain. Plugged the FSU back in (as it's only a few months old and OEM) - no drain. Never towed and don't plan on it so not bothered about fixing the electrics - just leave the fuse out - hopefully I got lucky, but the car was sat for a week and fired up without hesitation!! thanks again
  8. erv77

    Battery drain tips pls

    2001 530i touring. Got the click from the starter motor, jump leads and it started fine. Battery is a year old. With engine off it was reading 11.26v when running I get 14v so not the alternator (must have been changed as sticker has 2009). Went for a drive, turned engine off battery reading 12.30v, cranked fine so I'm guessing it's a battery drain. I changed the FSU (and yes, OEM from C3BMW!) a few months ago. They say unplug it overnight, but in the cold, dark and uncomfortable 7 minutes it took me to unplug it, battery voltage dropped from 12.30v to 11.88v. Any ideas of suggestions mist welcome. On the plus side, my e39 last broke down over two years ago with a well overdue rad replacement!! Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
  9. erv77

    Battery drain tips pls

    Faulty battery, it's dead! Only 9mths old, listed as a BMW battery but they now tell me they wouldn't recommend fitting it to a beemer. Moral of the story don't but a powerline battery even if it has a 4yr guarantee, royal PITA as I have to send it back! Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
  10. erv77

    Battery drain tips pls

    True, it's the drain which more important and that's measured by amps. I'm not very techy so I'm dreading how I get the bottom of the issue! Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
  11. erv77

    Battery drain tips pls

    Cheers buddy, will try that. Since I've disconnected the FSU it has dropped from 11.88v to 11.35v so guessing something else is also draining the battery! Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
  12. fleaBay have these from £9 - £40 but I'm worried that a £40 one will perform as badly as a £9 one! BMW want £85 and bmwminiparts want £65! Can anyone recommend some vendors who are selling reliable FSU's at sensible prices???!! Cheers
  13. erv77

    FSU - who sells decent ones?

    cheers everyone - have plumped for a BEHR one from C3BMW - £48 inc. delivery. Febi ones were similar price, Meyle £40 but not heard good reports on those. Still - seems a lot of money for what they are, but at least I'll be able to clear the old windscreen (need to check out door vapour barriers - never a good sign when you have to use a squeegee on the inside of the windscreen!!!)
  14. erv77

    FSU - who sells decent ones?

    Cheers mate, will give them a shout Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
  15. erv77

    FSU - who sells decent ones?

    Cheers guys I get the buy cheap buy twice but by the same token oem prices are nuts. I should have asked, has anyone spotted good oem prices anywhere?!?!? Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
  16. I'm usually on the e39 part of the forum, but my brother-in-law has a 54 plate e60 525d touring. Sounds like he left the boot window slightly open when we had all that rain! He ended up with a portable paddling pool. Killed the battery. He's got it all dry now, and a new battery, only issue is that his OBC and Radio generally doesn't work, but does come on every now and again - any ideas? Cheers
  17. Well I've bought the £40 tool off ebay - apparently the threaded bar and nut are deemed consumables but will hopefully only do mine once and reckon good to sell on at a discount! Have also purchased Meyle rear ball joints and both front upper control arms - Meyle HD. Now to get them fitted!! Cheers for your help guys
  18. Hi all, been a while! I'll be replacing front and rear ball joints (2001 e39 530i Touring) and was wondering if anyone near Southampton has one or both of the specialist pullers needed for the job. Happy to rent if unwilling to lend! Thanks
  19. Cheers Gavin, they want £36 Inc postage and you can buy them for £40 although at that price they might only mange infrequent use! Cheers tho!
  20. erv77

    Radiator replacement

    Just watch for the rubber mounts as they'll fall out as you pull the rad out - one of mine dropped into a basin full of old coolant! My new rad came with the two flimsy plastic holders for the shroud (bottom of the rad), even though I carefully removed the old ones! Good luck!
  21. erv77

    Which brand of radiator to get....

    Done - very easy to refill and bleed system! Been trundling around in the mother-in-laws MGF - boy that felt really nice heading home with that lovely straight six feeling!!
  22. erv77

    Which brand of radiator to get....

    Not looking forward to that bit (I got it wrong on my e36 a long time ago) - found the TIS guide - hope that works ok for me!!
  23. erv77

    Which brand of radiator to get....

    Plastic bit on the rad for slotting bottom of fan shroud - my new rad came with them attached. Cheers for the offer re the spanner - I do have a 32mm one and I reckon I won't need the special tool to tighten it. Got all my parts installed - just had to wait for new pulley so this evening I'll install that and refill the whole system - which I hope won't be a pain!!
  24. My 32mm fan clutch bolt doesn't look like it's been loved. It has deep gouges from a coal chisel - I don't know if the idiot who had a go at it was tightening it, or more likely didn't realise it's a left hand thread and they were in fact tightening it. Either way, I couldn't break it. Tried many things: Short sharp thud from a lump hammer on the 32mm spanner - no joyWedging/bracing all manner of implements to get some leverage on itFabricated the special tool - fitted great - didn't work, even when we packed wood under the special tool (to take the strain), and placed a 3' length of scaffold pole over the spanner - we just bent the special tool! I got desperate: Removed the 4 10mm bolts on the WP pullyRemoved the 4 10mm nuts from the WPUsed 2 of the 10mm bolts (between the two vertical studs on the WP) to 'jack' out the WP (have basin ready for coolant)Pulled WP out - it just clears the engineRemove the rest of the rad assembly and pull the lot outWP into vice, remove fan clutch bolt (with extreme prejudice) NB - this suited me as I wanted to drain the engine block and I was fitting a new WP anyway. The WP pulley is fragile, as my fater-in-law discovered (another £20 to my parts bill!). I couldn't find any alternatives on the web. There may be a better way to do this, but it was late and I needed that fan off! What is disappointing is that the previous owner had the car from new and only serviced it at a dealership in Gatwick - I find it hard to believe that a dealership would use a coal chisel on a car??!!
  25. erv77

    Help -coolant leak - pics

    Previously posted about this, but I got the car up with undertray removed. No white marks, so guessing this is a fresh and persistant leak - could really do with some tips. I've attached pics The top hose (N/S) looks to be weeping. At the bottom of the rad both the blue drain plug and what looks like some kind of electical connector (sensor?) are both totally drenched in coolant. What I can't figure out is if this is just the leak from the top hose and coolant is accumulating on these parts before it drips off?? I've wrapped the top hose, drain plug and the bottom sensor in kitchen roll to see if any of them are soaking the tissue - any other tips? Cheers guys - really annoyed about this! (NB I have collected an washed away coolant to protect animals)
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