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Allanw last won the day on November 18 2013

Allanw had the most liked content!

About Allanw

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 11/07/1978

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Whangarei, New Zealand
  • Occupation
    Clinical Engineering / Biomedical Tech


  • Garage
    01 525i 5speed

Recent Profile Visitors

4,336 profile views
  1. BMW E39 Xenon conversion coding?

    Genuine retrofit kits come with error cancelling module, but you can just code for Xenon. I haven't done one for years, but in BMW SCANNER 1.4.0, you just tick a few boxes in the LCM coding - you can tick the one for Xenon Ignition and turn cold checks off, and it will still tell you if a bulb is out when they're on, and it also re-ignites the light, if it doesn't start the first time.
  2. Most reliable engine is M57 3L ?

    He's right in that Toyota have built some shit diesels! - 2C/3CT range sucked, 2.4T (2LT)pretty much all cracked heads, 2.8 (3L) cracked heads often, pre-D4D 3.0 (1KZ etc) crack heads eventually, newer D4Ds eat injectors and clutches and occasionaly go bang. Plus they were slow as shit anyway. I'd not touch one. But anything diesel and turbo is generally going to be more risky/trouble than a naturally aspirated port injected petrol engine - it's just less complicated and generally a buttload cheaper to fix. Common rail is even worse, because the components are so expensive - tight tolerance, super high pressure injection, highly stressed, turbocharged and running 20 to 30 PSI of boost, is just asking for trouble - eventually!
  3. The wires can corrode off inside the plug, or... worse: the coolant can travel up the inside of the wires and get as far as the ecu - either corroding the ecu, or the wires inside. TBH though, I'd rather see the proper fault code from BMW software to make sure that it's the right code for the Map-Control Thermostat Circuit. It might be a code for something else.
  4. Front drivers side clatter sound 530

    I'd never normally remove them (we don't get corrosion - no salt/snow etc), but they're a STUPID design on the E39 - it's the ONLY car I've ever had a stone stuck in the brakes more than once on, and it's happened dozens and dozens of times, especially since the re-sealed my road. They're been off for about 5000 miles, and it's had no noticable effect on the brand new pads and rotors... other than the stones not scoring the discs! Plus, no more rattle - it was my actual sheilds rattling - even without stones in them.
  5. Wiring help

    Especially that you tube one, where the solder has wicked up the wire, making it hard and break-prone!
  6. Front drivers side clatter sound 530

    My completely rust free (i'm in NZ) front brake shields did this - took me an age to find it was them - they resealed my country road, and stones got stuck in the brakes every day - so I took them off - noise gone!
  7. E39 530i oil leaks

    Do the camshaft position sensor orings too. Our exhaust one was leaking, and it dripped onto the AC compressor. after being blown back while driving along.
  8. Battery

    make sure to connect the plastic vent hose, and block the vent on the other end of the battery - otherwise a leak will eat out your battery tray
  9. The heater on 32 will only help if the fan is on flat out. The newspaper test ONLY works if the temp is hot enough to make it lock - most of the time it is NOT locked. The pump could have lost it's impeller, and not be pumping, but also check it the whoel radiator is boiling hot - it may be blocked and there isn't enough circulation (either blockage or pump). You need to stop driving ii though, if you want to protect your head gasket! A head gasket on these is usually a MAJOR too, as the threads for the head bolts often strip.
  10. E39 525 M Sport - Was There Such a Thing?

    Doesn't matter how many times you say it though
  11. Air bag recall

    I fitted an earlier wheel... and luckily for me, sold the newer one already Are the old flat Sport ones not affected by the recall?
  12. Potential Debris/Obstruction of Air Filter Intake

    The alternator one is probably crammed full of leaves etc too - they block the flow pretty much entirely.
  13. The little o-rings in the filter housing (on the pointy bit, on the cap) can leak pressure into the sump - they should really be replaced on a regular basis, like the cap o-ring is.
  14. And so it begins !

    The kits only work if the diaphagm is intact oo, and mine wasn't, so I got a brand new one too... don't think it was that much either... but it was a few years back anyway. If they fail, they can destroy the engine if the pin makes it into a cylinder, so it's a good thing to do!
  15. Autolock can be done with checkboxes in BMW Scanner 1.4. about US$20 from xcar360.com It's pretty easy, and can be used to read fault codes too. If you want to go more advanced, get an INPA setup from Jimmy at Cable-shack.co.uk