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ger

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ger last won the day on December 21 2012

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About ger

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Garage

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    E39 M5, e61 535d

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  1. ger

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Removed coolant pump (finally!). Replacement should be fitted today
  2. ger

    Saloon rear quarter window removal

    There's a bit more on the dg install on the following page as well. I hope it all goes well for you!
  3. ger

    Saloon rear quarter window removal

    I cut the dg units out carefully with a scalpel, took hours but no damage. For the normal single glazed units I used an oscillating saw with a cloth as a pad which took them out in seconds, dont press hard and be aware that you're likely going to go through the little legs in the plastic frame, these set the glass depth when you bond the new glass in so either be very careful or get a pair of new frames. Bond bead is about a cm thick, starts and finishes at the rear of the door. Here's my post about it: Take your time and you will be fine... Hth
  4. ger

    Soft close door problem.

    I've fitted sc to mine, big job that was part of a few others and overall took ages, fitting the wiring is a bit of a pain! Anyway, last job was to fit the actual sc modules and the last one to go in was the drivers. It had a broken spring in it. I managed to work it and bent the remainder of the spring so it works again, took some effort as it's not easy to get into them (especially when tired and it's the early hours...)! You can just see the spring in the picture: All the other units were quiet but when I gently shook this one you could hear something moving inside. I thought nothing of it until it was fitted (I thought it pretty reasonble for a little something to be a bit loose when it's not been powered up for months!), then I had to quickly learn how they work! From my experience they work independently of anything else in the car, they're not linked to anything and cannot be coded (through the obd port). They are powered off the 'sleep activated live'- ie their power switches off after about 15mins (found this out showing off after leaving a door open for ages, it didn't work! Opened another door that 'awoke' the car and we were back in business ). They only have 12v and earth connections, no 'bus' connection at all. I really doubt that disconnecting the battery will make any difference. Does something sound a bit loose if you 'shake' the door? Listen carefully when shaking it.. I'd say that to find out you'll have to remove the lock and motor assembly. Have a good read of this: Soft close II.pdf Look at the picture on page 6 of the pdf or this one: Once the first lock stage has taken place, a switch closes and get's things going. A motor winds and pulls a 'bike type brake cable' that pulls lever #5 down. This 'see saws' and pushes lever #4 up. #4 pushes and thus rotates the catch (or rotary striker as they call it) #1 until it latches at the second lock stage (ie door properly shut) and closes another switch, telling the motor to stop and reverse a bit. For me, it was a broken spring between #5 and #4. #4 has to pressing gently against the catch (#1) . It has to be sprung to allow the door/catch to lock when shut normally (ie not sc). Whilst the spring was broken, #4 wasn't pressing gently and couldn't push and rotate #1. Motor moved, but sounded a little different - it was getting to the end of the cable's travel and labouring for a moment before relaxing. Hth.
  5. Washed and clay-bared it Friday evening. Spent hours yesterday machine polishing (heavier cut then a light finish cut), added Collinite 915, then some srp and finally egp. Paint is unbelievably smooth and does look pretty good. I doubt it's ever had any correction, I managed to improve the swirl marks no end but a few deeper ones remain. Would probably need sanding to remove them and I'm not going to bother with that! Added some tyre dressing to finish it off. I think the whole job took about 15 hours and I haven't taken a picture yet!!
  6. ger

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Possibly a sticking piston in the caliper? It would cause heat build up that could lead to pad transfer (or 'warped discs') and other issues. It could be worth it to push the piston back with a big 'G' clamp and feel how easy it goes back, you wouldn't need to take it off (only the spring), just clamp the outer pad and the rear of the caliper. It should wind back with relative ease. You could compare with the other side...
  7. Ouch. How bad is the bore? Pitlston and valves can be changed with relative ease...
  8. Washed mine with TFR, rinsed thoroughly then clay-bared. Paint feels really smooth now. Tailgate brought up yellow-brown dirt on the clay, must be some film from the exhaust. Used Meguiars clay/detailing spray kit from Halfords. Machine polish and wax tomorrow, hopefully!
  9. Not heard anything really, they're pretty much 'bomb proof' from what I gathered. It will be interesting seeing what you find.
  10. Removed inlet manifold, added 0.5mm shims under lower manifold mounts (between rubber washer and ‘hat') to increase compression of the seals, I was having some weeping from this area, 0.5mm won't harm anythi h but will increase the pressure. Removed lower engine covers, plastic and aluminium, to gain better access to gearbox oil cooler. Removed oil lines and fitted new o rings-went through a lot with changing the oil cooler some time ago but didn't get tge o-rings in time. Checked gearbox oil level, replaced lost fluid (lost about 300 to 400ml). Replaced the last four short pieces of vacuum hoses at the rear right of the engine, just above dpf. All are now silicone Replaced seals in the charge pipes. Changed front left tyre for a Cinturato, previous one was damaged having kissed a pavement! Fitted new front left fog light, both are now nice and new.
  11. Best of luck with the job. Have you wondered if it's a swirl flap??
  12. Finished fitting these: Maxton design sill extenders. Not quite a 'straightforward job' as I wanted to keep the pull rod end covers. Measured a lot, made some templates, holes and slots and modified the covers a bit and hey presto, they're on (covers are the grey things amidst all that black!): They aren't just bolt on though, they also need to be bonded which means a bit of preparation and of course, the adhesive, which wasn't supplied. I used some Tiger-seal, doubt they're going anywhere soon Also, the screws only go into the original plastic sill cover, they don't reach the metal body. It's taken ages but I think they look good. I wnated to paint under the sills, there were some marks under there and I didn't want them being reflected in the new, shiny sills! Car had to be raised onto blocks to be able to get under the sides, you can't work on them with anything under the jack pad. I undid all of the lower sill mountings (the Tx25 plastic ones) and found a ton of soil hiding behind them! It was incredible, it just kept on coming!! Obviously it had been collecting over the years; doesn't help that the previous owner was a vet who must have spent a lot of time in fields! Nice and clean now, might be checking this every year or two.. Will need to make some jacking pad inserts now as the sills go under the jacking pads by a bit. It would have been nice to know these things before fitting, I can't take it off the ramp, I don't want to crack them! The inserts need to be about 24mm tall and fit in the pad cavity, which is 58.7 x 34.2mm, as I've measured them. I'll make some temp ones in the morning...
  13. You might have six dead glow plugs! Have you confirmed that the glow plugs themselves are ok? You can measure their resistance between their central terminal and the head, should be very low, about 1 to 2 ohms (do a search to get correct value). Anyway, dead glow plugs are usually a lot more. If they're ok, I don't know what the issue may be, you could be very unlucky.
  14. Why don't lci's cone with tge passenger 12v socket? Been thinking of this myself..
  15. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F302779051547 Use that to as him about deals for spacers and stud sets etc, he's good.
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