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ger

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ger last won the day on December 21 2012

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About ger

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    E39 M5, e61 535d

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  1. I've had a cylinder #1 glow plug fault code for a week or two, so last night whipped the inlet manifold off and changed the glow plug. Old one had failed, it was giving a resistace reading of about 18ohm, they should be about 1ohm ish. Shame you can't change them without removing the manifold but there we go. No more codes now Then I spotted some small ball bearings on the scuttle (I thought they were seeds!). Turns out that my wiper linkage was in the process of self destructing! I had heard a couple of clunks in the past few days but it continued to work fine, though I doubt if would have worked more than a few seconds after this, pretty close call... Luckily, I had bought the repair kit from 'Ask the mechanic' months ago (last June) and I was able to fit it. The shorter link arm remained on the car when I removed the wiper arm!! The video instructions were great and everything went smoothly. Nice, silent and free running wipers again If you hear any clunks from your wipers, check them out. If your car has done over say 120 thousand, it might be a wise piece of 'preventative maintenance' to carry out. I seriously wouldn't want the wipers failing on me 'on the road' and for £12 (and 5p), it's well worth it. This is the kit I bought: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F262811430562
  2. I had'nt though of getting it re-crimped. I thought it was seeping slowlyvthrough the pipe (similar to the e39 power steering hoses).. How much was the new one, if you don't mind me asking?
  3. Good work there. Turbo oil feed pipe needs changing on mine, it seems to be weeping a little bit, I'll do it sometime soon.
  4. Fitted a new MAF yesterday. I'm thinking the car could be giving better mileage, so starting with this. Car feels no different. I did not reset the engine adaptations, I reckon it should adapt to 'better' results pretty quickly. Those whom have reset them had a few panicks whilst everything was re-learnt. I might reset them at a later stage, I might give the injectors an overhaul and following this, resetting adaptations might be beneficial. Today, I fitted a new heater blower fan motor. Only removed the centre console and the middle bits. Deep in the dash.... Noise had become unbearable and it was distracting me but I wasn't 100% sure it was the blower fan, I was thinking it could have been one of the nine or so stepper motors dotted around the heater unit but had no way of properly finding out. Decided I'd start with the blower on the premise that it has turned a lot of times over the years and is a good place to start. I had thought of sticking in a 2nd hand unit but checked ECP and CP4L, got a brand new Hella (so Behr, so oem) unit for £75 from CP4L, they had a 18% off code recently, couldn't refuse it at that price . So, finally, blower doesn't groan and moan as I go along, just nice and quiet - result. Car is a nice place to be in now . After sorting one fan I was off changing another! The radiator fan unit had fallen over months ago and cracked the plastic frame. I got a 2nd hand replacement fan and it was fitted, seems to work fine and no more cuts to my arm whilst working at the front of the engine .
  5. ger

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    I got 26.9 from the m5 coming home from London a couple of years ago! I was quite impressed.
  6. No coding at all. I tried it just plugged in to begin with, all worked so I fitted it to the bracket properly. Really simple! CCC is happy and ir all comes up. Not going to disturb it unless I'll need to, but gettingthe chassis number 'corrected' would be nice, if it's in there! I will want to do some coding to the ccc gateway for the newer controller sometime but win fkp doesn't work for me yet and I haven't installed ista at all yet, I believe that both can update module software but will be a new thing for me! Coding to change settings is pretty easy but this will be fun. Can win fkp or ista 'uodate' the chassis number in various modules? It would be nice to have them all the same!
  7. A couple of days ago I fitted a 'fresh' DAB module. Mine has it factory fitted but it had never worked correctly, giving an 'antenna short' error. The original module had signs of being exposed to water, but mot much. I had stripped it down to have a better look and clean it, but it remained faulty. It sometimes picked up a signal but would drop it in no time, not far off what you would expect from an antenna short I'd imagine! Fresh unit in and it all works great, best I've used in this area; I had an Astra GTC that had dab and it was a bit of a pain, kept on dropping the stations or losing the signal. There might be a stronger signal now but it works great nonetheless and I've been able to clear the code without anything returning I might delve deeper into the old unit now to see what was wrong or, I might ask someone who knows about such things to repair it, a spare would be handy! Does anyone know of a good guy who could sort it? Fresh unit is actualy from an e90 but part number is on my car's list.
  8. Fitted a high beam assist mirror and coded it in last night. All works, a bit sensitive though.
  9. I removed the drain pipe and cleaned it out. I had water in storage tray every now and then. I've not had any since cleaning the pipe properly. There wasn't much dirt in it, but it must have been enough to restrict flow causing an overflow in the sunroof cartridge. Washing up bowl and various soaps, manipulating the pipe between my fingers and forcing water through (holding it on end of tap) cleared it all out quickly. Getting to it is awkward but not terribly bad, you seem to be 'on the case'. All the best with it.
  10. Permanent is easy, there's plenty of them in the fusebox etc (cdc possibly). Switched is more difficult, especially with both 'accessories' or 'ignition' 'on' stages. Most components are live powered and wake up on a can signal, sonething like that. Not much actually have an 'accessories' wire. 12v sockets turn off immediately when engine is switched off (so only on in 'engine on' position), you could run a wire from centre console. I think that all 12v sockets' wires originate from boot fusebox, which is fun! The glovebox light has power for about 15mins after ignition is switched off and using it doesn't upset the battery monitoring setup (otherwise you get 'too much battery drain' messages and a reset clock!!)-can't remember the acronym at the moment! Doesn't the kit have the capability to detect voltage drop when engine stops, ie from 13.6 to 12.6v? Check out these wiring diagrams too: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/
  11. ger

    My M6 Gran Coupe Thread

    I can't believe there's been five years!!
  12. ger

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Removed coolant pump (finally!). Replacement should be fitted today
  13. ger

    Saloon rear quarter window removal

    There's a bit more on the dg install on the following page as well. I hope it all goes well for you!
  14. ger

    Saloon rear quarter window removal

    I cut the dg units out carefully with a scalpel, took hours but no damage. For the normal single glazed units I used an oscillating saw with a cloth as a pad which took them out in seconds, dont press hard and be aware that you're likely going to go through the little legs in the plastic frame, these set the glass depth when you bond the new glass in so either be very careful or get a pair of new frames. Bond bead is about a cm thick, starts and finishes at the rear of the door. Here's my post about it: Take your time and you will be fine... Hth
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