Jump to content


Platinum Members
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


ger last won the day on December 21 2012

ger had the most liked content!


About ger

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Gender


  • Garage
    E39 M5, e61 535d

Recent Profile Visitors

7,433 profile views
  1. No coding at all. I tried it just plugged in to begin with, all worked so I fitted it to the bracket properly. Really simple! CCC is happy and ir all comes up. Not going to disturb it unless I'll need to, but gettingthe chassis number 'corrected' would be nice, if it's in there! I will want to do some coding to the ccc gateway for the newer controller sometime but win fkp doesn't work for me yet and I haven't installed ista at all yet, I believe that both can update module software but will be a new thing for me! Coding to change settings is pretty easy but this will be fun. Can win fkp or ista 'uodate' the chassis number in various modules? It would be nice to have them all the same!
  2. A couple of days ago I fitted a 'fresh' DAB module. Mine has it factory fitted but it had never worked correctly, giving an 'antenna short' error. The original module had signs of being exposed to water, but mot much. I had stripped it down to have a better look and clean it, but it remained faulty. It sometimes picked up a signal but would drop it in no time, not far off what you would expect from an antenna short I'd imagine! Fresh unit in and it all works great, best I've used in this area; I had an Astra GTC that had dab and it was a bit of a pain, kept on dropping the stations or losing the signal. There might be a stronger signal now but it works great nonetheless and I've been able to clear the code without anything returning I might delve deeper into the old unit now to see what was wrong or, I might ask someone who knows about such things to repair it, a spare would be handy! Does anyone know of a good guy who could sort it? Fresh unit is actualy from an e90 but part number is on my car's list.
  3. Fitted a high beam assist mirror and coded it in last night. All works, a bit sensitive though.
  4. I removed the drain pipe and cleaned it out. I had water in storage tray every now and then. I've not had any since cleaning the pipe properly. There wasn't much dirt in it, but it must have been enough to restrict flow causing an overflow in the sunroof cartridge. Washing up bowl and various soaps, manipulating the pipe between my fingers and forcing water through (holding it on end of tap) cleared it all out quickly. Getting to it is awkward but not terribly bad, you seem to be 'on the case'. All the best with it.
  5. Permanent is easy, there's plenty of them in the fusebox etc (cdc possibly). Switched is more difficult, especially with both 'accessories' or 'ignition' 'on' stages. Most components are live powered and wake up on a can signal, sonething like that. Not much actually have an 'accessories' wire. 12v sockets turn off immediately when engine is switched off (so only on in 'engine on' position), you could run a wire from centre console. I think that all 12v sockets' wires originate from boot fusebox, which is fun! The glovebox light has power for about 15mins after ignition is switched off and using it doesn't upset the battery monitoring setup (otherwise you get 'too much battery drain' messages and a reset clock!!)-can't remember the acronym at the moment! Doesn't the kit have the capability to detect voltage drop when engine stops, ie from 13.6 to 12.6v? Check out these wiring diagrams too: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/
  6. ger

    My M6 Gran Coupe Thread

    I can't believe there's been five years!!
  7. ger

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Removed coolant pump (finally!). Replacement should be fitted today
  8. ger

    Saloon rear quarter window removal

    There's a bit more on the dg install on the following page as well. I hope it all goes well for you!
  9. ger

    Saloon rear quarter window removal

    I cut the dg units out carefully with a scalpel, took hours but no damage. For the normal single glazed units I used an oscillating saw with a cloth as a pad which took them out in seconds, dont press hard and be aware that you're likely going to go through the little legs in the plastic frame, these set the glass depth when you bond the new glass in so either be very careful or get a pair of new frames. Bond bead is about a cm thick, starts and finishes at the rear of the door. Here's my post about it: Take your time and you will be fine... Hth
  10. ger

    Soft close door problem.

    I've fitted sc to mine, big job that was part of a few others and overall took ages, fitting the wiring is a bit of a pain! Anyway, last job was to fit the actual sc modules and the last one to go in was the drivers. It had a broken spring in it. I managed to work it and bent the remainder of the spring so it works again, took some effort as it's not easy to get into them (especially when tired and it's the early hours...)! You can just see the spring in the picture: All the other units were quiet but when I gently shook this one you could hear something moving inside. I thought nothing of it until it was fitted (I thought it pretty reasonble for a little something to be a bit loose when it's not been powered up for months!), then I had to quickly learn how they work! From my experience they work independently of anything else in the car, they're not linked to anything and cannot be coded (through the obd port). They are powered off the 'sleep activated live'- ie their power switches off after about 15mins (found this out showing off after leaving a door open for ages, it didn't work! Opened another door that 'awoke' the car and we were back in business ). They only have 12v and earth connections, no 'bus' connection at all. I really doubt that disconnecting the battery will make any difference. Does something sound a bit loose if you 'shake' the door? Listen carefully when shaking it.. I'd say that to find out you'll have to remove the lock and motor assembly. Have a good read of this: Soft close II.pdf Look at the picture on page 6 of the pdf or this one: Once the first lock stage has taken place, a switch closes and get's things going. A motor winds and pulls a 'bike type brake cable' that pulls lever #5 down. This 'see saws' and pushes lever #4 up. #4 pushes and thus rotates the catch (or rotary striker as they call it) #1 until it latches at the second lock stage (ie door properly shut) and closes another switch, telling the motor to stop and reverse a bit. For me, it was a broken spring between #5 and #4. #4 has to pressing gently against the catch (#1) . It has to be sprung to allow the door/catch to lock when shut normally (ie not sc). Whilst the spring was broken, #4 wasn't pressing gently and couldn't push and rotate #1. Motor moved, but sounded a little different - it was getting to the end of the cable's travel and labouring for a moment before relaxing. Hth.
  11. Washed and clay-bared it Friday evening. Spent hours yesterday machine polishing (heavier cut then a light finish cut), added Collinite 915, then some srp and finally egp. Paint is unbelievably smooth and does look pretty good. I doubt it's ever had any correction, I managed to improve the swirl marks no end but a few deeper ones remain. Would probably need sanding to remove them and I'm not going to bother with that! Added some tyre dressing to finish it off. I think the whole job took about 15 hours and I haven't taken a picture yet!!
  12. ger

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Possibly a sticking piston in the caliper? It would cause heat build up that could lead to pad transfer (or 'warped discs') and other issues. It could be worth it to push the piston back with a big 'G' clamp and feel how easy it goes back, you wouldn't need to take it off (only the spring), just clamp the outer pad and the rear of the caliper. It should wind back with relative ease. You could compare with the other side...
  13. Ouch. How bad is the bore? Pitlston and valves can be changed with relative ease...
  14. Washed mine with TFR, rinsed thoroughly then clay-bared. Paint feels really smooth now. Tailgate brought up yellow-brown dirt on the clay, must be some film from the exhaust. Used Meguiars clay/detailing spray kit from Halfords. Machine polish and wax tomorrow, hopefully!
  15. Not heard anything really, they're pretty much 'bomb proof' from what I gathered. It will be interesting seeing what you find.