chr15gb

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About chr15gb

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    2004 (54) 530D SE Auto

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  1. I assumed the little no entry sign meant don't put anything in that gap or it will get squashed
  2. It's just a notification based on the expected life span of the DPF (100k miles). Nothing to worry about as long as your DPF is regenerating fine and keeping backpressure under control (which you can see using the C110) I don't think you will be able to clear the codes as it is latched on due to the mileage going over. Using DIS you simply reset the remaining miles so you can give it another 100k so whilst not really clearing a code, you are just reducing the "miles worn" to make the car think it has a way to go so the error has no reason to appear. This is the same as resetting oil/brake service miles. Interesting that changing the glowplug controller didn't clear your glowplug errors. It isn't particularly uncommon for glowplugs to fail but on the BMW, the controller is far more fragile and fails more. Top Tip: change the glowplugs with a warm engine, they come out easier. If they are stuck in a cold engine, hand pressure alone is easily enough to snap them.
  3. Fault 452A appears as the particle filter most of the mileage has exceeded maximum and serves as information / reference for the filter in a BMW expert workshop to be replaced It seems your DPF has exceeded it's life according to the iDrive. Check through the menus to see what it says now. You can reset this using DIS and give yourself another 100k miles.
  4. 4332 points to item 2 in this drawing http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=NR72-EUR-04-2005-E60-BMW-530d&diagId=13_1150#13537805734
  5. I've had a 43D1 error for Throttle valve. Can you move it open against the spring (don't force it too hard)? Here is my thread about it http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f15/2004-e60-530d-throttle-valve-not-working-t110717/ Here's a Youtube clip showing a DIS test with it functioning. If the flap is stuck shut, the engine will starve of air and stall. You can see the spring at the bottom at the 10 second mark, you can try turning that spring when it ia all connected.
  6. Sound like fakes lol
  7. I don't think BMW make disks and pads.
  8. To bring balance, I bought one of those kits. Different seller and I paid more for it. It lasted 3 years before failing.
  9. No, the PDC does not require coding (I have changed mine).
  10. Glow plugs aside, I'm baffled why bmw seem completely ignorant to the role thermostats play in the regeneration cycle . I've seen dozens of posts where people have sent their cars into main dealers for dpf problems but not a single one where stats have been changed without a fight.
  11. I occasionally get the horrendous screeching. To describe it, imagine a "Just Married " car where someone has tied a chain of tin cans dragging on the road behind, it sounds like that. A good Jet Wash poking the lance at the disk/pad area shifts it. I've no idea how a small stone or some such could create such a noise but it's happened about 4 times over the last 5 years, and is definitely memorable.
  12. With the EGR removed, I used a socket extension inserted into the opening where the exhaust gases pass through. Then press the EGR valve open, it takes a fair amount of effort so put the EGR valve body against a solid object when you compress the spring opening the valve. With the Valve held open, put your thumb over the vaccuum line hole. Release the Valve, allowing it to close but hold your thumb in place for 10-15 seconds. Then remove your thumb, you will feel the suction when the opening is exposed allowing the air in. If there is no suction, the diaphragm has failed. You could also suck the small pipe which is a bit gross but will do the same thing,
  13. Disconnect the MULF, then shine a torch down the free end and look for it at the CDC/connector.
  14. I found another video with some guy messing with the whole MOST loop. He makes a bit of a hash with his drawing, there is no direct link between the MULF (TCU) and the MASK (CCC). The optics are in pairs. To help diagnose if you find where the light is missing, you can shine a torch down the end, you will see the light at the other end. I'm not sure if the hidden connector is before or after the CDC but if the MASK (CCC) is producing a red light and you can't see it at the CDC, pull the hidden one apart. The procedure is easy, the trickiest part if the crazy angles you need to bend yourself into in order to see what is happening.
  15. Here's a video showing where the MOST connector is (it is fairly well hidden as you will see).