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About chr15gb

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    2004 (54) 530D SE Auto

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  1. Glow plugs aside, I'm baffled why bmw seem completely ignorant to the role thermostats play in the regeneration cycle . I've seen dozens of posts where people have sent their cars into main dealers for dpf problems but not a single one where stats have been changed without a fight.
  2. I occasionally get the horrendous screeching. To describe it, imagine a "Just Married " car where someone has tied a chain of tin cans dragging on the road behind, it sounds like that. A good Jet Wash poking the lance at the disk/pad area shifts it. I've no idea how a small stone or some such could create such a noise but it's happened about 4 times over the last 5 years, and is definitely memorable.
  3. With the EGR removed, I used a socket extension inserted into the opening where the exhaust gases pass through. Then press the EGR valve open, it takes a fair amount of effort so put the EGR valve body against a solid object when you compress the spring opening the valve. With the Valve held open, put your thumb over the vaccuum line hole. Release the Valve, allowing it to close but hold your thumb in place for 10-15 seconds. Then remove your thumb, you will feel the suction when the opening is exposed allowing the air in. If there is no suction, the diaphragm has failed. You could also suck the small pipe which is a bit gross but will do the same thing,
  4. Disconnect the MULF, then shine a torch down the free end and look for it at the CDC/connector.
  5. I found another video with some guy messing with the whole MOST loop. He makes a bit of a hash with his drawing, there is no direct link between the MULF (TCU) and the MASK (CCC). The optics are in pairs. To help diagnose if you find where the light is missing, you can shine a torch down the end, you will see the light at the other end. I'm not sure if the hidden connector is before or after the CDC but if the MASK (CCC) is producing a red light and you can't see it at the CDC, pull the hidden one apart. The procedure is easy, the trickiest part if the crazy angles you need to bend yourself into in order to see what is happening.
  6. Here's a video showing where the MOST connector is (it is fairly well hidden as you will see).
  7. Defective MAF sensor can also cause the same fault. Did you test the EGR to see if the diaphragm holds the vaccuum?
  8. There is a vaccum line which operates the swirl flaps (just follow it back). Some just leave it as it is so the bar moves, but with no flaps connected, others remove it and blank the hole (fold the pipe back and cable tie it or else plug the hole).
  9. They make them out of stainless for some crazy weight saving reasons. Google "e60 exhaust manifold crack" to see the's very common and unlike the DPF, is not something you can avoid. Many put a cast manifold on from the old E39, if you can find them. Absolute swine of a job for a home DIYer to do (as you will see by the pictorial guides).
  10. A C110 scanner will tell you the backpressure. A more in depth diagnostic can be conducted using DIS If you get a C110 which is simple and hand held, compare the readings to this shot of the DIS test
  12. INPA can be used to check Injector Correction Values. It look like this
  13. Exhaust manifolds crack which leads to horrid exhaust fumes coming into the cabin. Mine has had three manifolds now (158k miles)
  14. On the E60 530D Auto, the car will drop down a gear when the regen starts if driving on a motorway. That's the sign of a regen, when my car jumps up to over 2k rpm on it's own (no change of speed). If driving in town, the car will hang on to the gears (very similar to Sport mode) so it will get the rpm up to near 4k rpm before changing. The exhaust note is more prevalent, kind of boomy as if there is a hole in it. It can be a bit embarrassing as it feels like the car next to you thinks you are trying to race. I don't think too much would have changed with the F10 so the above is something to look out for.
  15. Regens will happen during town driving but the problem is that it wakes a while to reach the conditions to start the regen process, then you really need to have the rpm up over 2k for a proper sequence to have a decent effect. It's very difficult, if not impossible to do this with start/stop driving. Similarly, it is likely your journey will end before the cycle has completed, which can lead to fuel getting into the oil.