rdl

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About rdl

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    rdl

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    Ontario Canada

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    2003 530I
  1. You'll never get that connector housing through the boots on each side of the E-box. At least not without a serious risk of damaging existing wires & perhaps the boot too. You could probably remove the terminals from the connector housing, tape them into a tight/small bundle (I'd SWAG 5 mm diameter would be max possible) and pull them though the existing boots, then re-install the terminals into the housing. See pages 8 & 9 of the attached pdf for the method that worked for me. CoolantLevelWarning.pdf Regards RDL
  2. An alternative is to run your wire(s) through the E-box. It avoids poking a hole in a grommet & risking a leak. The method is described on pages 8 & 9 in the DIY PDF found in the first post of this thread. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=584219&highlight= It's written for a LHD car and RHD may make access on the cabin side more complicated ... I don't know if the E-box is still on the right side for RHD cars. Regards RDL
  3. BMW's TIS shop manual describes that those small green O-rings on the cap's shaft should be changed every oil change. The vast majority of people commenting say "never" or "once in a blue moon". They do seem to last a very long time. But it can't hurt to try and see if it cures the symptom. They are quite inexpensive - 50 to 75 cents from on-line vendors in North America. But probably $5 over a dealer's parts counter. There really is something un-nerving seeing the oil pressure warning light isn't there? I do so wish that an oil pressure gauge had been fitted. And not one "damped" as the coolant temp gauge is!! Regards, RDL
  4. How many miles since the pads & rotors were replaced? Was the problem still present immediately after the new brakes or did it take a while to return? Is there any pulsing in the brake pedal? A possibility I didn't notice mentioned above is uneven pad deposits on the rotors. This could happen in a few hundred miles from new. Try this: - drive slowly say 25 mph - apply the brakes gently, enough to stop the car in say 5 or 10 seconds - if you feel uneven braking, as if the brakes are grabbing momentarily, releasing & then grabbing again and so on, it's almost certainly uneven pad deposits. At the very a least problem with the frictions surface(s.) Uneven deposits can be caused by a warped (potato chip shape, crisps I think in the UK) rotor. More subtle is a sticky caliper piston. Even the best rotors have SOME runout. Then if the caliper piston doesn't retract slightly into its cylinder (as it's supposed to) when the brakes are released there will be a slight touch on each rotation. The result is a buildup on the rotor and uneven braking. In this case the sticky caliper is not the guide pins, it's the piston - usually because of corrosion on the piston &/or the dust boot causing the piston to hang up in the caliper cylinder.
  5. Yes, the latch not fully closing would explain the symptoms. It's definitely best to have a look at the mechanism. It might be worth spraying the latch well with a good thin lubricant and then exercising it with the manual release as well as the key. If that doesn't free things up, then remove the trim and have a look. Regards RDL
  6. The boot lid issue is most likely due to broken wires in the rubber boot/snorkel between the body and the lid, near the hinge. It's a common problem. Search this and other E39 forums or google for DIY repair procedures. Regards RDL
  7. I'm assuming you have the I6 engine, either M52TU or M54 with sensors on both camshafts. Sensor "B" would be the exhaust side, which is the one without the harness. It's the inlet cam sensor with the harness which snakes around the oil filter and connects under the inlet manifold. FWIW, most people on the North American forums I monitor advise BMW or Siemens/VDO (original equipment supplier to BMW) ONLY for engine sensors - cam & crank sensor in particular. Generic aftermarket brands have a reputation for being inop out of the box or premature failure, i.e. days or weeks. If necessary I might take a chance on Febi or Hella since they are premium brands & suppliers to BMW for other components, i.e. have a brand & name to protect. BTW, given that fault code, a sensor failure is far and away most likely. But it might be worth unplugging the sensor for a quick look that there isn't something wrong in the plug, pins or wiring. It would take only a few minutes to check before committing to the expense of a new sensor. Regards, RDL
  8. There has been no end of discussion on temperatures in various forums. The best sense I can make of it is in the post below. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=7721699&postcount=10 Regards RDL
  9. If the disks were true on the old wheel bearings I'd suspect a seating problem on the new bearings' flanges. Keep in mind that a spec of rust or dust even a faction of a 1/1000" between the disk and hub is magnified greatly out at the pad friction surface. A few years ago I installed new disks & the first one I tried had more than 0.010" runout. I blamed the disk & let me tell you that I was really annoyed, to put it politely. However, at the end of the day I found a tiny, almost invisible, spec of something on the disk's mating surface. Once I cleaned it off the disk was true to better than 0.0005". You need to wire brush and clean the "old" disk seating surface very carefully. And ensure the bearing hub is clean too. Also, do you have the disk firmly clamped to the hub? The set screw alone can't ensure a flat, tight fit on the hub. You need at least 3 of the lugs clamping the disk to hub. Given length and the "missing" wheel you will have to use washers or a clinch nut on the lug bolts to apply clamping force to the disk while checking for runout (i.e. wobble). Otherwise the lug bolts will screw in so far that they will bind on the bearing and prevent rotation to check for runout. BTW, BMW doesn't publish specs for disk "trueness." But 0.002" runout and 0.0005" thickness variation seem to work. Regards, RDL
  10. Thanks for an interesting & informative video. I especially liked the consideration for getting the strings parallel and correction for the car's "squareness" to the strings. That is something ignored in other homebrew alignment DIYs that I've seen. Would you post back with the link to the java script calculator please? A few of comments that I trust will be helpful. The camber measurement in the video relies on the floor being level and flat. At least around here (Ontario, Canada) a concrete garage floor will have a slight grade so that any water doesn't accumulate at the wall. A common minimum grade is 1/16" per foot, which doesn't sound like much but turns out to be ~0.3 degree. It's also fairly common that concrete floors have "hills and valleys" of a few millimeters. Another 0.2 degree or so error could be introduced depending on where the tires happen to sit. I.e. enough to care about for setting camber where the tolerance is only 0.33°. And since every instrument has some error, i.e. inclinometer & camber tool, unless quite careful one could have a measurement error larger than the tolerance. Do UK garage floors usually have a grade? And how flat are floors usually? As a test one could gently pour a gallon or so of water on the floor and watch to see if it runs in a direction &/or exhibits any dryish "islands." It wouldn't be too difficult to - measure across for the difference in heights between the two threads once their heights are set level with the wheel centers, - calculate what that angle is - then apply it as a correction to the inclinometer readings. Just be sure to apply any adjustment in the proper direction. (Building codes here also specify garage floors have a slope toward the door so that any liquids will run outward rather than inward - but that is irrelevant to the video's technique.) Toe spec for the M5 was 0° 10' +/-10' angle. But the audio said 0.1 deg +/- 10'. To be precise 10' of angle is 0.167 deg. The difference isn't much but enough to bother with given the small tolerance. And last a heads up that only the fortunate few with M5s should use the angles in the video. For instance my 530 the toe spec is 0° 5' +/-10' front and 0° 16' +/- 10' rear. Camber was different too: spec for my 530 is -2° 10' +/- 20' which about 0.33° different from the data for an M5. Regards RDL
  11. Can't comment on the routing cross car ... thank goodness - I've not had to do it. BMW does use M10 and M12 fittings on rear lines. Apparently as a fail safe method to prevent crossing right & left lines. Which would confuse the ABS and DSC no end. Regards RDL
  12. You could use INPA & a thermometer (e.g. food thermometer will have the range & accuracy) to check IHKA sensor accuracy. - your red/blue dot wheel controls if vent air is from the heater core or outside fresh air (through evaporator) - thermometer stuck in vent to measure air temp - HVAC blower at least 1/2 speed for good air flow over the thermometer - INPA can read left & right heater core as well as fresh air sensors Regards RDL
  13. Quite right. It's a good point that I should have mentioned. If only one sensor has failed, only that side would have the symptoms described. And it would be quite a co-incidence for both to fail at the same time. NWJW - is the temperature the same on both sides or do you detect any difference? Any other HVAC peculiarities you've noticed? Another possibility is a fault in connector X854 or IHKA connector X611 pin 6. X854 connects to other IHKA temp sensors in the same manner as B11 & B12. Assuming the sensors are NTC thermistors (as is common) high resistance or open circuit would be interpreted by the IHKA as high temperature => close water valves unless set point is at maximum, i.e. 32C. A BMW diagnostic scanner would quickly sort out the question.
  14. I'd speculate that one or both temp sensors inside the HVAC case are inop. At extreme settings 16C and 32C the IHKA signals the water valves to zero flow or full flow. At intermediate settings it adjusts the water valves back and forth between "more flow" and "less flow" to hunt for a target temperature in the air exiting the heater core. If the temp sensors are inop or blocked the IHKA is left "blind." Also possible if a defect in the IHKA itself. Diagnosis will need a fully BMW aware scanning system such as INPA, DIS, PA Soft, etc. They will find any IHKA fault codes logged and allow monitoring the heating duct air temperature reading, i.e. if IHKA "sees" 48C from a defective temp sensor when the setting is 20C it will reduce water valve flow down, down, down until zero => cold air out the ducts. The E39 HVAC does not use air flaps to mix heated and ambient/cooled air to control cabin temperature. Except for the dash vents where the manual red dot blue dot wheel sets the mixture %.
  15. There is no way to check/verify the bushings, unless one sees an obvious sign of leaks from them. I had the symptom too but with a leak visible. When replacing the thrust arms, I tried push-pull and up-down stressing on the bushing ends on the failed arm,the old good (at least so far as I know) arm and the two new ones. I couldn't detect any difference. Yet the symptom disappeared. Further, TIS offers no comment or advice on a test method. So you may have that problem even though the bushings appear OK. I had one of those new bushings fail 80k km (50k miles) later, I installed Meyle HD bushings. I found ride character unchanged from the fluid filled design, just as many others have reported. I've only 50k km on the Meyle bushings so can't comment on life but by all reports they last virtually forever. I'll hypothesize that new brakes being OK for 1,000 miles & then a return of symptoms could still be bushings. The vibration & s/w shake is a result of the bushings failing to damp out tiny vibrations that then allows a vibration to resonate and grow, if the frequency is "correct". Which is why the bushing symptom is speed dependent. Brand new brakes will have minuscule shake or unevenness - not enough to exceed the bushing's reduced damping. After some miles there will inevitably be some unevenness build up - not enough to be detectable IF the bushings damp them out. But failed bushings don't and the front suspension resonates. Any chance your caliper overhaul was less than perfect? It's easy to miss a small fault. Also did you check rotor runout? Even a small amount will escalate over time as rubbing on the pad causes a vicious circle of increasing pad deposit at the high spot(s). And will be exacerbated by caliper even slightly sticky. But if brakes are the cause, one would expect to detect some effect at slow & moderate speeds with careful testing and attention. I vaguely recall the BMW runout spec is 0.002" max. BTW, I just now see Duncan-uk's comment re pad deposits vs actual warping. He's quite right. Most "warped" rotor are actually suffering from excessive, uneven pad deposits. Warping can occur, especially with cheap rotors, but it's quite rare. Regards, RDL