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rdl

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About rdl

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    rdl

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    Ontario Canada

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    2003 530I
  1. Stud conversion

    Mounting wheels on a lug bolt hub sure can be a challenge all right. Here's an alternative you might wish to consider. Buy an M12x1.5 bolt approx 100 mm long. Cut off the bolt head (hex) with a hacksaw. Then cut a slot in the end ~5 mm deep across the diameter. Finally, grind the end into a bullet shape. To mount a wheel - screw the bolt into one of the lug holes in the hub - 4 or 5 finger twists is enough - fit the wheel onto the hub over the bolt - using the bolt as a pivot, rotate the wheel until it seats over the hub's centering cone/lip - once in place on the lip the wheel will usually stay in place without support. Occasionally a light touch with one hand is needed until a lug bolt is started with the free hand. I've found this method easier than mounting over studs, where one has to align all 5 studs to the wheel simultaneously. If needed, one can use a blade screwdriver in the slot to turn out the bolt. But in the 5+ years I've used this method on my 530, I can't recall ever needing to do so. The bolt comes out easily by hand. regards RDL
  2. Cost effective or heresy?

    Vacuum in the CCV hoses is minuscule, so long as the CCV is operating properly - 15 mbar. And if the CCV fails I suspect a collapsed hose would be the least of problems. A different story for hoses connected directly to the inlet manifold - e.g. the SAI valve vacuum hose or the hose to the brake booster. Those can see vacuum of 500 mbar or more which could easily collapse an incorrectly spec'd hose. Regards, RDL
  3. E39 bulbs list

    Philips, Osram, GE, etc. web sites will list most or all bulbs for a selected car. Usually by type and their part #, (e.g. D2S and Philips 85122) often with multiple alternatives including LEDs that they happen to provide. There are model year differences, e.g. earlier E39s had an incandescent tail light bulb while later ones used Hella's Celis technology with embedded LEDs so no replacement bulb available - other than an entire rear light assembly. A heads up though. There have been reports that LEDs can trigger false bulb out warnings in the instrument cluster. And any bulbs "cold monitored" by the LCM can flash for an instant every minute or so when an LED is installed. Some folks aren't bothered, other are. The LCM can be re-coded with NCS Expert to selectively turn off bulb monitoring ... and again some like the idea, others don't.
  4. Will BMW fix my vapor barrier

    I've been through this too - seal, reseal, reseal ... new butyl tape with heat every timei and once buying a new foam panel. The last time I had a very close look at the fit and think perhaps I've been mispositioning the foam panel just slightly on the door. The door pocket intrudes outward from the car's centerline into the panel & I think over time it has pushed on the vapour barrier panel which causes the butyl tape to creep under constant pull & eventually release. I've always positioned the panel so its seal surface lip was outward, and the edge of the depression in the panel was tight to the door's metal edge - sort of like pulling it tight light a drum. Last time, I moved the panel inward to allow more slack and room for the door pocket to protrude into the door cavity without tensioning the vapour barrier. Not extreme, there was still lots of overlap for the butyl tape to bond to both metal and barrier. It's been less than a year since that last repair so I can't say conclusively this is a solution. But worth a try if you're doing a re-re-reseal. Strange thing is that I've done both rear doors, but only one side has been problematic. Perhaps I did that one side "accidently correct" or it could be that the door card and pocket on the problem side bulges more than the other. I wish I knew. Regards RDL
  5. Suspension arms

    One needs to be careful with Moog parts. Years ago Moog was a premium name that everyone wanted, if they could afford the price. At least here in North America. Then a few years ago they brought out a "value" line; recognizable by part #s starting with an "R". Lately I've seen threads in North American forums with some people swearing by Moog, and others at. And for the same part on same vehicle. I didn't back-check exhaustively, but it seemed to me that an awful lot of the folks disappointed with their Moog's parts seemed to be the ones who had earlier posted about the "great price I found." The last few years I've seen more and more brands bringing out these "value" lines. It's a shame that so many vendors seem to think it's good business to make knock-offs of their own products.
  6. Wiring from cabin into engine bay

    You'll never get that connector housing through the boots on each side of the E-box. At least not without a serious risk of damaging existing wires & perhaps the boot too. You could probably remove the terminals from the connector housing, tape them into a tight/small bundle (I'd SWAG 5 mm diameter would be max possible) and pull them though the existing boots, then re-install the terminals into the housing. See pages 8 & 9 of the attached pdf for the method that worked for me. CoolantLevelWarning.pdf Regards RDL
  7. Access for wires 530d

    An alternative is to run your wire(s) through the E-box. It avoids poking a hole in a grommet & risking a leak. The method is described on pages 8 & 9 in the DIY PDF found in the first post of this thread. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=584219&highlight= It's written for a LHD car and RHD may make access on the cabin side more complicated ... I don't know if the E-box is still on the right side for RHD cars. Regards RDL
  8. BMW's TIS shop manual describes that those small green O-rings on the cap's shaft should be changed every oil change. The vast majority of people commenting say "never" or "once in a blue moon". They do seem to last a very long time. But it can't hurt to try and see if it cures the symptom. They are quite inexpensive - 50 to 75 cents from on-line vendors in North America. But probably $5 over a dealer's parts counter. There really is something un-nerving seeing the oil pressure warning light isn't there? I do so wish that an oil pressure gauge had been fitted. And not one "damped" as the coolant temp gauge is!! Regards, RDL
  9. Steering wheel wobble

    How many miles since the pads & rotors were replaced? Was the problem still present immediately after the new brakes or did it take a while to return? Is there any pulsing in the brake pedal? A possibility I didn't notice mentioned above is uneven pad deposits on the rotors. This could happen in a few hundred miles from new. Try this: - drive slowly say 25 mph - apply the brakes gently, enough to stop the car in say 5 or 10 seconds - if you feel uneven braking, as if the brakes are grabbing momentarily, releasing & then grabbing again and so on, it's almost certainly uneven pad deposits. At the very a least problem with the frictions surface(s.) Uneven deposits can be caused by a warped (potato chip shape, crisps I think in the UK) rotor. More subtle is a sticky caliper piston. Even the best rotors have SOME runout. Then if the caliper piston doesn't retract slightly into its cylinder (as it's supposed to) when the brakes are released there will be a slight touch on each rotation. The result is a buildup on the rotor and uneven braking. In this case the sticky caliper is not the guide pins, it's the piston - usually because of corrosion on the piston &/or the dust boot causing the piston to hang up in the caliper cylinder.
  10. Yes, the latch not fully closing would explain the symptoms. It's definitely best to have a look at the mechanism. It might be worth spraying the latch well with a good thin lubricant and then exercising it with the manual release as well as the key. If that doesn't free things up, then remove the trim and have a look. Regards RDL
  11. The boot lid issue is most likely due to broken wires in the rubber boot/snorkel between the body and the lid, near the hinge. It's a common problem. Search this and other E39 forums or google for DIY repair procedures. Regards RDL
  12. Cam position sensor fault (which part)

    I'm assuming you have the I6 engine, either M52TU or M54 with sensors on both camshafts. Sensor "B" would be the exhaust side, which is the one without the harness. It's the inlet cam sensor with the harness which snakes around the oil filter and connects under the inlet manifold. FWIW, most people on the North American forums I monitor advise BMW or Siemens/VDO (original equipment supplier to BMW) ONLY for engine sensors - cam & crank sensor in particular. Generic aftermarket brands have a reputation for being inop out of the box or premature failure, i.e. days or weeks. If necessary I might take a chance on Febi or Hella since they are premium brands & suppliers to BMW for other components, i.e. have a brand & name to protect. BTW, given that fault code, a sensor failure is far and away most likely. But it might be worth unplugging the sensor for a quick look that there isn't something wrong in the plug, pins or wiring. It would take only a few minutes to check before committing to the expense of a new sensor. Regards, RDL
  13. Coolant Temp?

    There has been no end of discussion on temperatures in various forums. The best sense I can make of it is in the post below. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showpost.php?p=7721699&postcount=10 Regards RDL
  14. Wobbly disc

    If the disks were true on the old wheel bearings I'd suspect a seating problem on the new bearings' flanges. Keep in mind that a spec of rust or dust even a faction of a 1/1000" between the disk and hub is magnified greatly out at the pad friction surface. A few years ago I installed new disks & the first one I tried had more than 0.010" runout. I blamed the disk & let me tell you that I was really annoyed, to put it politely. However, at the end of the day I found a tiny, almost invisible, spec of something on the disk's mating surface. Once I cleaned it off the disk was true to better than 0.0005". You need to wire brush and clean the "old" disk seating surface very carefully. And ensure the bearing hub is clean too. Also, do you have the disk firmly clamped to the hub? The set screw alone can't ensure a flat, tight fit on the hub. You need at least 3 of the lugs clamping the disk to hub. Given length and the "missing" wheel you will have to use washers or a clinch nut on the lug bolts to apply clamping force to the disk while checking for runout (i.e. wobble). Otherwise the lug bolts will screw in so far that they will bind on the bearing and prevent rotation to check for runout. BTW, BMW doesn't publish specs for disk "trueness." But 0.002" runout and 0.0005" thickness variation seem to work. Regards, RDL
  15. How To Guide - Wheel Alignment/geometry

    Thanks for an interesting & informative video. I especially liked the consideration for getting the strings parallel and correction for the car's "squareness" to the strings. That is something ignored in other homebrew alignment DIYs that I've seen. Would you post back with the link to the java script calculator please? A few of comments that I trust will be helpful. The camber measurement in the video relies on the floor being level and flat. At least around here (Ontario, Canada) a concrete garage floor will have a slight grade so that any water doesn't accumulate at the wall. A common minimum grade is 1/16" per foot, which doesn't sound like much but turns out to be ~0.3 degree. It's also fairly common that concrete floors have "hills and valleys" of a few millimeters. Another 0.2 degree or so error could be introduced depending on where the tires happen to sit. I.e. enough to care about for setting camber where the tolerance is only 0.33°. And since every instrument has some error, i.e. inclinometer & camber tool, unless quite careful one could have a measurement error larger than the tolerance. Do UK garage floors usually have a grade? And how flat are floors usually? As a test one could gently pour a gallon or so of water on the floor and watch to see if it runs in a direction &/or exhibits any dryish "islands." It wouldn't be too difficult to - measure across for the difference in heights between the two threads once their heights are set level with the wheel centers, - calculate what that angle is - then apply it as a correction to the inclinometer readings. Just be sure to apply any adjustment in the proper direction. (Building codes here also specify garage floors have a slope toward the door so that any liquids will run outward rather than inward - but that is irrelevant to the video's technique.) Toe spec for the M5 was 0° 10' +/-10' angle. But the audio said 0.1 deg +/- 10'. To be precise 10' of angle is 0.167 deg. The difference isn't much but enough to bother with given the small tolerance. And last a heads up that only the fortunate few with M5s should use the angles in the video. For instance my 530 the toe spec is 0° 5' +/-10' front and 0° 16' +/- 10' rear. Camber was different too: spec for my 530 is -2° 10' +/- 20' which about 0.33° different from the data for an M5. Regards RDL
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