Matthew Ashton

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About Matthew Ashton

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Garage

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    2010 F11 530d SE; 2014 F45 218i

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  1. The latest Gracenote update seems to be 03.2016 for NBT. But if you use iTunes use this tool: http://www.ericdaugherty.com/dev/itunesexport/ to export your iTunes library to a USB stick and just leave that connected to the USB in the armrest and forget it until your next iTunes export update. When ripping CDs to the car's internal HDD the Gracenote database is accessed to inject the metadata to the 128Kbps WMA files. If your CD is newer than that database then you will end up with the unknown title/artist. You can either rip the CD on your PC and edit the metadata manually or use an iTunes library to manage your music and export as above. I've been using the USB stick with iTunes export in the car for a number of years now and have ignored the internal HDD as it is just too cumbersome. Works perfectly for me. Also you get a slightly better sound depending on whether you rip your CDs to 320Kbps MP3 as opposed to the 128Kbps WMA used by the car to rip songs.
  2. Hi, There are instructions available to build your own cable which I did and have been using ISTA and Esys to Diagnose and Code my F11 successfully for some years now. Let me know if you are interested and I can help you source the links to the documents. Now with the Cable build document included Easy Cable Build.pdf
  3. The shortcuts can be changed whether engine is running or just ignition on but watch out for the "other keyfob" syndrome as this has foxed me too. I've set: Journey computer, SatNav direction and Music for the split screen along with my Home destination shortcut, tone settings (for the fader when my girls are watching their iPads in the rear) and a radio preset. The split screen changes I use very often.
  4. PSdZ Lite is just a cut down version of the full database so will work for coding on all F and G cars. Having the latest version of the database is always a good place to start. I've sent you a PM.
  5. Give me a couple of weekend options and we'll make a plan.
  6. I'm in Orpington, Kent and very happy to help.
  7. So long as you follow the instructions to the letter you'll be fine. I've been using it for some years now and the first time was quite hairy but now I know what to expect it is far less daunting.
  8. PSdZ is the software level database used for flashing modules and there is a "Lite" version for coding. Having the latest version is a good thing but not ultimately necessary unless you have one of the brand new cars. See this link for the software: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=638188
  9. For diagnostics: Rheingold ISTA. For the rear brakes with electronic handbrake, you can just remove the electronic actuator from the caliper, replace the pads and then reinstall the actuator. You can reset a number of service indicators through the dashboard cluster too: http://mr-fix.info/bmw-5-series-service-reset-f10-f11-f07/
  10. Really? So the airbags on a number of F11s have failed. But, they are simple to replace and not particularly expensive so no great shakes for the person buying a shifter in 5 to 10 years. These are complex cars so you need complex diagnostic tools and some abilities to repair them. Sure some things are going to be beyond the scope for many of we mere mortals to repair but I don't know that is different from many of the other cars on the roads today. Sure I am biased as I have an F11 that I've owned since 2011. I do regular maintenance on the airbags to make sure that grit is not caught in the folds and after nearly 7 years mine are showing no sign of wear. As for the rest of the car, its warranty expired in 2013 and its service plan expired in 2015 but I intend driving the car for at least another 5 years and will manage any "not aging well" concerns as they occur - To date I've replaced the aircon condenser and one of the side view cameras.
  11. Andrew, from your picture BMW haven't wired the switched live and switched live ground in your plug but the permanent Live and permanent Live ground are connected and those are the ones I've connected to. I've highlighted those pins in your picture: As pin 9 is permanent live, I wonder whether you will have a problem attaching a charger to it due to those modules? Ultimately it has to be connected with a direct connection to the battery somewhere in there. I'll take a look at the wiring diagram in ISTA and get back to you.
  12. The resin polish brings up a good shine and removes minor scratches which is then sealed with the wax so can't attest to its individual longevity.
  13. Hi Andrew, CTEK MXS 5.0 charger £62 - Amazon (includes crocodile clips and the Comfort connector) 13pin Plug £6 eBay Tesa wiring loom tape to wrap the wires to make the harness look nice £3 eBay CTEK 2.5m extension cable £11.99 Amazon
  14. Based on feedback here, I've simplified my charger access point to the car by using the tow bar 13pin socket so don't need to feed wires through the window to get to the charging point I installed. I've removed everything I showed above and built a simple harness using the spare comfort connector lead you get with the CTEK charger and a 13pin tow bar electrics plug. I connected the Red wire to pin 9 and the Black wire to pin 13. Pin 9 is a permanent live that bypasses the Westfalia control box and goes straight to the positive battery terminal via a fuse. Pin 13 is the specific Negative point for Pin 9. Much simpler and it works perfectly.
  15. I use the Bilt-Hamber Finis-Wax after a clay bar session which I follow by polishing with Autoglym Super Resin Polish before the wax. Used on my Titan Silver F11 and Imperial Blue F45 gives a very nice finish.