Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


pt530i last won the day on February 27 2012

pt530i had the most liked content!

1 Follower

About pt530i

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location


  • Garage
    530iA Saloon Titanium Silver Style 82s
  1. You can buy cheap ones on ebay eg http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-5-Series-E39-Saloon-sedan-REAR-AXLE-SUBFRAME-BUSH-REMOVER-INSTALLER-TOOL-/252072468325?fits=Plat_Gen%3AE39&epid=1162975602&hash=item3ab0b09f65:g:6UkAAOSwjVVV4C2l Maybe buy it and then sell on or keep with a view to renting it out No idea if the quality is any good, the proper professional quality tools are serious money - but it's a job you'll only ever do once on an E39
  2. Steering wheel wobble when braking on 530i '01

    Thrust arm bushes would be my bet if you're sure brakes themselves are OK Were they replaced with decent OEM quality parts - if it was generic ebay Chinese rubbish then that might well be the cause
  3. That rust thing...

    I think the problem is that a bit of superficial rust turns into something much more serious once everything is stripped back. I'd remove all the plastic covers and have a really good look around to check for rot before deciding what to do. There was a thread on here where someone's entire sill and jacking point were rotten despite the visible bodywork looking OK
  4. Whoa there! Steady as she goes...

    I know it doesn't help you now but the easiest way to remove the drop links is to use a very slim 16mm spanner to grip the bolt so the whole thing doesn't just spin whilst you undo the nut It turns out a universal pushbike spanner is exactly the right size for this Surprised the bottom arm bolt couldn't be budged. This has good access and a long breaker bar and decent socket ought to be able to move it Unfortunately this is sometimes the reality of working with 18 year old cars - but stick with it, sounds like you're making progress, albeit slowly
  5. Does this have everything needed?

    I can't say about the kit or anything to do with the regulator However as you will presumably have to remove the vapour barrier I'd strongly recommend buying some butyl tape to reseal it with. One of the most common causes of wet rear carpets is the sealing of the vapour barrier failing. As it's going to be all in bits you might just as well do it now. Lots of threads on here if you search for vapour barrier. I think I paid about a tenner for my butyl tape when I did mine about 3 years ago
  6. Anti roll bar bushes

    You can do each side seperately I vaguely recall one side being difficult to access the bolts unless you remove some of the covers but all pretty straightforward
  7. Repair or scrap my 1 owner 523i ASE?

    If oil has poured out from the bottom of the radiator that indicates the transmission cooler Not a particularly big job to fix but make sure the transmission is filled back up correctly (you need INPA to monitor oil temperature) The 523i is not a particularly desirable model but a genuine 44k is a rarity and there might only be a handful of similar cars like this left So please keep it or at least give /sell to an enthusiast
  8. Viscous fan is first culprit, secondly does the pusher fan work ? Both need to be in good condition for the cooling system to work correctly
  9. So you service your own car - newbie help

    Get a copy of the Bentley manual as well. Lots of scanned in PDF copies on the web, I probably have the file somewhere if you get stuck. Don't think the Bentley manual covers diesels but for every thing else its a good source of how-to's Also get the BMW TIS - that's the dealers workshop manual which will frequently reference special tools that you can do without, but again a useful source of information. Think that's a pretty big download. Lots of pictures and I always read up a little before I do a job just to have an idea what to expect and what tools might be needed
  10. Well that was an easy fix!

    The strange horn like sound does possibly indicate a CCV issue The CCV has a rubber diaphragm inside which splits. Also the pipes to it are very prone to getting sludged up which causes problems with the correct breathing of the engine Look at http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DM42-EUR-12-1999-E39-BMW-523i&diagId=11_2194 for an idea of what it looks like. Mine was a M54 3.0 but I'd expect the breather to be similar on the M52 - unless anyone knows better ? It's a fiddly job to replace as it's hidden under the inlet manifold
  11. Well that was an easy fix!

    There shouldn't be anything more than a very slight vacuum. If there is it indicates a CCV valve. On my 3.0 M54 it ran slightly roughly and the engine light would come on. Very common problem and will definitely cause fuel trim values etc as there is effectively an air leak. Takes but a minute to check and if nothing else will eliminate as a potential cause of your problems
  12. Well that was an easy fix!

    Have you checked whether there is a vacuum at the oil filler cap when the engine is idling ? If so this usyually indicates CCV which is a very common issue and causes lumpy running as well as trim values etc going out of kilter. A 2 minute job to check And yes, all E39s are potential money pits, as stated running costs are in relation to the equivalent of a £40k car. But stick with it.
  13. Whoa there! Steady as she goes...

    WHen I changed mine I did not split any ball joints despite the official procedure to break the track rod end balljoint I disconnected the bottom arm from the subframe as this allows the hub to fall down a bit when the steering is on full lock (hard right for lh strut and vice versa) but I did use spring compressors to squeeze the springs up a few inches as this then creates plenty of clearance to get the strut in and out and clear the wheel arch. If they haven't been changed already I'd suggest doing the drop links at the same time as you have to disconnect one end of them already If you have a decent balljoint splitter then the 'correct' way is to disconnect the steering and press the hub down with your foot whilst swinging the strut to one side and out. But I didn't have a splitter and the compressor method described was much easier for me, I reckon once jacked up you could change the entire strut easily within an hour
  14. Whoa there! Steady as she goes...

    The OP posted pictures of his FRONT suspension
  15. Whoa there! Steady as she goes...

    That shock is totally shot. I'd be very surprised if it provides much damping at all. Will be a definite MOT failure too. You will need to replace the shock but in all likelihood the top mount and possibly the bump stop too. The ARB bushes, as previously said, look very worn and I'd replace these along with the drop links, a cheap and easy job. Once you have new shocks I am confident you will find a MASSIVE improvement in ride quality and not wince as you approach potholes. As far as testing the balljoints and bushes the wheel rocking at 6/12 and 3/9 O'clock is a good test but this doesn't always show up play as the balljoints are not in their natural halfway position. Lower the front wheels onto some blocks of wood or slabs and get under the car. Get someone to rock the steering wheel gently and you'll be able to feel any play in the balljoints. This was the only way I tracked down a worn thrust arm balljoint on mine, there was no play with the wheels hanging down. The fact it had 11 year old tyres rather indicates it hasn't been much cared for so probably if it's going to be saved it's time to invest a bit of money on the old girl. But it will be worth it, when the suspension is sorted they ride and handle very well