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pt530i last won the day on February 27 2012

pt530i had the most liked content!

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About pt530i

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    530iA Saloon Titanium Silver Style 82s
  1. An old adage but... You get what you pay for. I learnt that lesson with suspension parts but it holds true for pretty much everything.
  2. Please help hesitation no codes!

    Have you replaced coils ? On my old 3.0 they all went eventually and not actually that expensive for OEM quality Bosch units
  3. Should I worry about soot build up on valves?

    Walnut shell cleaning is used on later petrol engines that use DI (direct injection) - a few videos on Youtube if you search. The inlet manifold is removed and the engine turned so each valve is shut in turn and blasted with walnut shells, then vacuumed out. The idea being that any walnut residue wont harm the engine if ingested into the cylinders A petrol engine using DI will tend to build up clag on the back of the inlet valves due to exhaust blow back and the fact the inlet air does not contain any fuel which on a older port injected engine will have a cleaning effect A diesel engine clags up mainly because of EGR - whether walnut shell blasting will be effective on this type of buildup I don't know.
  4. 18 - Pulse Gear Fault

    Sounds like the wrong bearing was fitted if the reluctor ring is part of the bearing - sending wrong number of pulses per revolution
  5. 99 523i not coming to life...

    Check around the engine ECU for moisture / corrosion on the connectors Think it's accessible if you remove the passenger side pollen filter
  6. Pictures might help with a sensible response
  7. What makes front suspension "crashy"?

    When you replaced the shocks were they new ? Crashyness is usually due to worn out shocks. When I replaced mine, once the spring had been removed there was hardly any resistance and could easily push the rod in by hand. Once replaced the ride was massively transformed
  8. Have you looked on realoem.com ?
  9. Mr

    When I changed my fronts (with Sachs) it was definitely a bit higher and didn't really change in the years before I sold it I concluded it was just the rears being worn out that made it look too high at the front With all the potholes round my way I actually welcomed a bit more height and suspension travel
  10. You can buy cheap ones on ebay eg http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-5-Series-E39-Saloon-sedan-REAR-AXLE-SUBFRAME-BUSH-REMOVER-INSTALLER-TOOL-/252072468325?fits=Plat_Gen%3AE39&epid=1162975602&hash=item3ab0b09f65:g:6UkAAOSwjVVV4C2l Maybe buy it and then sell on or keep with a view to renting it out No idea if the quality is any good, the proper professional quality tools are serious money - but it's a job you'll only ever do once on an E39
  11. Thrust arm bushes would be my bet if you're sure brakes themselves are OK Were they replaced with decent OEM quality parts - if it was generic ebay Chinese rubbish then that might well be the cause
  12. That rust thing...

    I think the problem is that a bit of superficial rust turns into something much more serious once everything is stripped back. I'd remove all the plastic covers and have a really good look around to check for rot before deciding what to do. There was a thread on here where someone's entire sill and jacking point were rotten despite the visible bodywork looking OK
  13. Whoa there! Steady as she goes...

    I know it doesn't help you now but the easiest way to remove the drop links is to use a very slim 16mm spanner to grip the bolt so the whole thing doesn't just spin whilst you undo the nut It turns out a universal pushbike spanner is exactly the right size for this Surprised the bottom arm bolt couldn't be budged. This has good access and a long breaker bar and decent socket ought to be able to move it Unfortunately this is sometimes the reality of working with 18 year old cars - but stick with it, sounds like you're making progress, albeit slowly
  14. Does this have everything needed?

    I can't say about the kit or anything to do with the regulator However as you will presumably have to remove the vapour barrier I'd strongly recommend buying some butyl tape to reseal it with. One of the most common causes of wet rear carpets is the sealing of the vapour barrier failing. As it's going to be all in bits you might just as well do it now. Lots of threads on here if you search for vapour barrier. I think I paid about a tenner for my butyl tape when I did mine about 3 years ago
  15. Anti roll bar bushes

    You can do each side seperately I vaguely recall one side being difficult to access the bolts unless you remove some of the covers but all pretty straightforward