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DarkHorse

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About DarkHorse

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    Member

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  • Website URL
    http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/124347-bmw-530i-n53-e61-lci-2007-odd-engine-noises-bought-one-anyway/?tab=comments#comment-1360625

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Gloucestershire UK
  • Interests
    (shared avatar noted ;)

    Mostly active in the "E60 2004-2010" forum.

Garage

  • Garage
    BMW E61 530i black M Sport LCI 2007 6s manual. (prev E39 525i SE 2001 manual)

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  1. DarkHorse

    What did you do to your E60/61 today?

    Satan turned into a seagull and crapped acid onto the painwork, which has permanently bubbled up a 6 inch patch of clear coat. Nasty, initially set rock hard like a wheatabix mixed with superglue. Grr! Good job it's an 11 year old, a newer one and I might be out with a shotgun looking for revenge.
  2. DarkHorse

    Treated her to some quik detailing

    LCI 535d, looking good .
  3. Interesting, yesterday I stuck a couple of 3cm cut lengths of draft spongy excluder, as padding, placed between the contact points of the engine and the Cover Cable Runway (part #1). I think it's done the trick, I didn't notice the noise this morning/today, could be a false flag solution (as there is no connection with my E39 observation) so I will check again tomorrow and report back with an update. Edit: Confirmed, the noise has gone!
  4. DarkHorse

    Petrol exhaust, muffler butterfly valve flap

    Update: Holding the muffler valve open increases the noise from the exhaust a little, as expected, just a bit more noticeable at lower revs with the window open. Going to leave the mod in place for now.
  5. DarkHorse

    Petrol exhaust, muffler butterfly valve flap

    I expect the flap was much more noticable on your previous V8s , my little i6 doesn't have the same effect sadly.
  6. The back box has 2 tail pipes, the inner most one has a vacuum / spring opperated valve inside it that is closed at idle. I found that I can test the DME electronicly generated (I think) vacuum operated flap / valve using INPA: - Select Engine N53 MSD80 Siemens - F6- Activate - F1 - Stellgliedansteuerung1 - SHIFT + F2 - AbGasKlappe AGK (Exhaust Valve/Flap) - F1 - AGK ein - Turns the Valve on for 15 Seconds - F2 - AGK aus - Turns the Valve off for 15 Seconds - F4 - Ansteurun Zuruck an DME - Returns control of back to the ECU (DME) If not the exact same key strokes then just follow the German phrases. I expect the E60 N53 525i/530i is closed at idle and probably opens the valve above 3k RPM but not able to verify. The N53 in a 330i reports to open at idle (for noise effect) then close between 1k RPM and 3k RPM. I got bored and force my muffler valve open all the time with a cable tie. The back box sounds slightly different at idle, a bit beefy but nothing much to shout about. Going to leave it for a week or two and evaluate at various speeds and conditions. I googled around and there seems to be a wide variety of reasons for the flap (mostly hear say) but I'm not convinced by any of them being factually correct, other than for mild noise control.
  7. DarkHorse

    What's this button for?

  8. DarkHorse

    iDrive issues

    I think you are ok, this is optional as desired, cycle through to the view you want. If the lazer was a problem then no Nav map access would be available.
  9. DarkHorse

    What's this button for?

    Secret start button?
  10. DarkHorse

    Converting to Shadowline?

    Do people replace them? I thought some found it easier to tape/wrap them. Probably a bit fiddly though and needs a bit of patience .
  11. DarkHorse

    Help with E61 air suspension

    Glad you got is sorted out. Just for future reference, can you identify the fuse number and location, plus the relay identity, it's location and the controller etc.? Might save someone a bit of time. Cheers in advance.
  12. DarkHorse

    Electrical noise/alternator whine radio

    Sounds ok. Someone else might have some other ideas for solving the whine interfearance. Earthing, chokes, capacitor smoothing, cable re-routing... bloody annoying, good luck. Or alternatively maybe consider running the sub only from the boot Amp and filter out most of the whine noise if possible. If that fly's, then: Run the roof/rear speakers stock HP from the HU. Run the front door speakers from HU with an LP crossover to leave the remaining bass frequencies to better serve the under floor subs that are in parallel. Add some cheap 4ohm tweeters with a HP crossover in the front door quarters (again in parallel on the front channels). The crossovers should more efficiently and cleanly distribute the frequencies to the front speakers that are best suited for the job. That's been good enough for my music tastes on a tight budget. Not perfect but louder and clearer in all frequencies and plenty of spare bass (if the boot sub location and signal phase is closely matched with the under floor subs).
  13. DarkHorse

    Electrical noise/alternator whine radio

    I don't suffer this problem on my basic iDrive audio E61. Possibly points to other tailgate related wiring, Diversity module and third party divices (cheap USB etc.). Check voltage from Alternator, not sure how but maybe verify the condition and functionality of the alternator regulator and brush gear? Not alternator whine but for reference, I once wrote in this thread (E61 Touring - Optimal boot sub(s) location.): So I let the HU drive the rear/roof speakers (with stock High Pass, no sub bass). Wish I could help more , hate these kind of issues when trying to improve on BMW's excuse for an audio system. It took me a while to figure out what the basic iDrive was actually doing , plus the help from this forum. Was yours originally a basic audio setup configuration? So how have you wired up your Amp, fed by the iDrive Head Unit from which channels?
  14. ok thanks, I'll have a dig around and get this resolved pretty soon. I went 7 years in the E39 with only one key, I reckon my luck will run out one of these days .
  15. Found it, cheers . 868 MHz fob for £10 then get fob coded to start car (how?) and cut blank physical blade.
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