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Everything posted by bmwm-power

  1. Genuine bmw style 138 alloy wheels with Runflat tyres 17inch, 7.5j wide all round, 5x120, ET20 offset used but very good condition. only 1/2 minor age related marks which i have touched in with Silver touch up paint since taking pics no cracks/welds or repairs/flat spots. no buckles. run smooth no shakes tyres 2x REAR both matching GOODYEAR EAGLE NCT5 225/50/R17 94W RUNFLAT approx 6mm tread 2x FRONTS both matching BRIDGESTONE POTENZA S001 225/50/R17 94W RUNFLAT Approx 5mm tread but the passenger side one has more uneven wear on the outer edge due to tracking issue. but still legal as the rest of tyre is still 5mm and the legal limit needs to be at least 1.6mm across 75% of tyre , this should even out once driven over time i think come with genuine bmw centre badges price is £275 for the four wheels/tyres contact number 07 88 29 07 335 payment : either cash on collection or pay via bacs transfer if you want to arrange a courier Location central birmingham, 2 miles from city centre. approx 5/10 minute drive M6 junction 5 or 6 pics: just click on the image to show the actual image . dont know why this is happening
  2. Oh. I didn't realise. If anyone intested I can send pics on wattsapp. What's an alternative to upload pics now then...imageshack?
  3. sorted now mods please delete
  4. hi guys 525d M57 engine (2.5 diesel no lci 3.0) Symptoms as follows: strong diesel fume smells in cabin now for past couple months, been getting worse so ive decided to do something about it car doesnt feel as responsive from 1500-3500 like before my searches show its likely to be a cracked manifold or broken flexi my question is how can i confirm which one it is before ordering the cast iron manifold off ebay. I want to be sure I would like to do it myself as ive done the swirl flaps so have the "ability" and tools to give it a go Only thing worries me is snapping the studs on exhaust manifold I have removed the top engine cover, smaller engine cover at back and left them off I also removed the front undertray from underneath the car , will i need to remove the other undertrays aswell? So whats the next step to diagnose it...when i start the car i can definitely smell exhaust fumes but cant see any smoke also any links to diy guides appreciated thanks
  5. its done just past, 105000 its has full service history although not all by bmw I took it to a local garage yesterday, they put it up on ramp, removed the second undertray which covers the dpf to reveal the flexi. The mechanic said the flexi was fine and no need to replace it. He had a look under bonnet with a light and said that judging from the soot build up on the heatsheild on the car body in the engine bay it was the manifold. Since removing the undertray there has been a huge reduction in the amount of fumes i can smell (almost non ) . I think its because the fumes are flowing under the car now as appose to just coming in to the cabin via vents. He quoted approx £150.00 labour to do it I think i will study the diy guides online a bit more and order the manifold. i will attempt do do it and worst case i will drop it in
  6. thats a 5 series e39 in pic
  7. ok, thanks, what sort of figure am i looking at for a turbo thinking "if its not broke dont fix it mode at moment?" and any pointers to diy guides ?
  8. on the look out for some budget 19s for E60 currently running on 17in style 138s which i dont like at all I can offer the 17in style 138s in px or buy outright details of the 138s: good condition. no corosion. 2 rear tyres goodyear nct5 runflat with approx 6mm tread. fronts bridgestone potenza runflat approx 5mm tread but the passenger tyre has worn on outer edge due to tracking .pics available if required. not too fussy on style but must not be buckled/damaged or previously repaired. original condition must have decent tyres as long as they fit an e60 without spacers and look ok will travel upto 50 miles from bham drop me a pm with details of wheels/offset/tyre sizes and price. But im on a low budget hence not wanting anything fancy, dont have to be genuine just basically 19 inch round, air tight and with tyres im looking regularly on ebay and gumtree aswell no real hurry but ideally want some this month
  9. What sort of deal we talking. The 138s are good condition. Rears Goodyear nct 5 runflats 6mm front bridgestone potenza runflats 5mm but 1 is worn on outer edge due to tracking.et20
  10. hi i serviced my car myself and tried to reset oil service light using the youtube guide but it doesnt seem to go into the "mode" . im reading that its locked because its gone over the mileage and the light is now red rather than orange? if so how can i do it a case of plug into computer? anyone in birmingham that can do it relatively cheap?
  11. have tried several times . it keeps going to the -------- after the orange triangle phase? and if i continue to hold it will go to the hidden menu anyone else had this issue, is it because the oil service is showing overdue by 2400 miles (its been done though)
  12. Want genuine standard mv2 for e60 so if anyone wants rid let me know near birmingham, can travel around 75 miles radius. cheaper better but reasonable price paid
  13. jake you mean the plug under near the sump how could that affect the service light no resetting?
  14. just thought id put it out here looking for 1 genuine rear 9.5j x19in 172m alloy wheel either with or without tyre i dont mind one single crack on rear but MUST NOT be buckled im in birmingham so close as possible but can travel upto 80 miles and pay cash on collection
  15. got the front now so only need 1 rear 9.5j bump, anyone? looking daily on ebay,
  16. ok i stand corrected. that looks like a poor repair from what i can see. if it isnt buckled then i would get it re-done , theres a few genuine uncracked single wheels on ebay and gumtree,
  17. just looking at your ad mention you require a rear wheel , these are 9.5j x19 the fronts are 8.5j
  18. hi..if you are interested in selling that one wheel which is loosing air, then i will be interested in buying. please drop me a pm ?

  19. hi.. ive done a search but nothing specific to my problem found so anyone shed some light on this please took my car out today, on a dual carriage way tried to switch cruise control on and nothing no light on dash or anything ive used it before on my last motorway journey and it was fine so in between this period its stopped working car is an 03 reg 520i sport m54 engine auto (so no clutch pedal switch problem) few things ive checked... 1) all the button on the mfsw work so its not that fuse 2) my searches show there isnt a direct fuse for cruise control? 3) i have read about the fault ignition switch problem but my car displays no other symptons which could suggest it was that...all electrics work, no warning lights on dash, nothing playing up 4) i did this test after reading on google...but not sure if theres any sense in it i start the car ,,,without touching the brake pedal (car in park mode) i press the cruise control on button and the green light on dash comes on as soon as i touch the brake pedal it goes off i read somewhere that this suggests its a faulty maf sensor.... howver my car is running fine, no juddering or clonking off, idles at approx 700rpm ?? or could it be a wheel sensor ... i think this because the light goes off when i touch my brake suggesting its to do with brakes....but again abs light or traction light not on dash. only thing ive done since the cruise working and not working is service the car...use proper oil, (could i have damaged something while removing airbox? i thought id ask before getting it plugged in. thanks in advance
  20. hi folks car is a nov 2005 525d m sport auto m57 engine Im a little stuck so need your help and expertise About a week ago after a long motorway journey i noticed a screeching/creeking noise coming from the engine So after reading various things on the net ive put it down to either one of the belts or one of the pulleys Im stuck at this stage because i have removed the fan and engine cover to get better visibility I started the car and with it running i add a drop of oil through cannister tube to each pulley starting from the air con pump and working across to the passenger the crank shaft pully etc I noticed that when i got to the two smaller pulleys located next to the power steering pump...i put a little oil on the belt and a little just behind the pulley.. The noise went completely I started the car back up a few hours later and it was back again Can someone advise me what this pulley is ...or is it a tensior . im thinking its the one with a hex nut on it Or is it just the belt thats screeching and the oil is temporarily lubing it.. I cant see any play or vibration in any of pulleys Ive read that i can remove the belt and check for play by spinning them...but how do i loosen it to remove. Is the tensioner the pull down to release type or other any advise appreciated i can put pics and video up tomorow if it helps
  21. no probs mate, I couldnt find a M57 specific guide so thought id add it. Although there are videos on you tube that help give you a general idea of the procecure being done on e39/e46 so i followed them and took on board the slight variations to this engine.
  22. update, problem diagnosed as noisy tensioner pulley and idler pulley, also changed the serpentine belt aswell as it was contaminated with wd40 and oil while i was trying to diagnose the noise. Absolute mission to remove but did it myself. took approx 4 hrs taking it slow as it was my first attempt, used the realoem diagram for the belts as guidance for location of bolts etc.. but next time i think i could easily do it in half that time basic socket set needed, torx set, and couple of ring spanners for those interested to remove the tensioner, the way i did it was as follows 1) remove the top metal cover on the slam panel that holds bonnet hinge (approx 10 torx screws) 2) remove plastic cover off top of radiator, unclip the intercooler pipe off the egr and move it out of the way and then remove the fan (couple of screws, unclip plugs, unclip the pipe underneath it and slide out upwards) 3) I also removed the undertray to allow me to see from underneath when replacing the belt on but its not necessary, few phillips screws hold it on so not hard to remove 4) Get a 24mm hex socket onto the tensioner, pull it anti clockwise and release the belt off (alternator /serpentine belt)...just move it out of the way or completely remove it. you have to remove the air con belt aswell. As you loosen it...inspect it for cracking/damage/dirt etc . but for the cost its best to change unless you know yours was recent. Air con belt is stretch type so very fidly see you tube for guidance 5) removing the belt enabled me to spin each of the pulleys so i was able to assess which one is noisy 6) I removed the small idler pulley aka deflection pulley (1 tox bolt) as i thought that was a bit dry and noisy aswell and considering its cost half of the tensioner price I thought id change both to balance things. Both these parts are available off ebay/euro/gsf, but make sure you cross reference the oem part numbers.sizes of pulleys and make sure its correct before ordering 7) To get to the tensioner i had to undo the 3 bolts holding power steering pump/reservoir on and move that out of the way (i also removed the pas pump pulley to get more room . its only 3 torx bolts , had to lock centre with an allen key to stop it spinning. 8 Then i removed the 2 long alternator bolts to drop/move that out of the way to gain access to the rear of the block just behind the oil filter housing 9) just at back of the oil filter housing there is a small 10mm bolt holding the tensioner arm in place from behind the block...i was just about able to get my hand in and undid that with a 10mm spanner, then finally back to the front...there are 2 torx bolts that need to be removed. 1 will require the tensioner to be pulled out of the way to access it. once these are out, then just wriggle the tensioner arm with the pulley on it out. You can remove the pulley off the arm (15mm nut) and just change the pulley but the one i bought had the arm/rod with it,. The arm isnt at fault its the pulley bearings. remember to change the old seal with new one. Replacing pulley is just reverse of the above. Only thing to note is to get the alternator back on is an absolute pain..i had to get someone to hold it up/in place to line up and fit the top bolt first. Then to get the bottom one in i had to tap it gently with a long bar and hammer for it to slot into its correct position...careful not to crack the casing!, I also added a bit of grease to the lower mounting bracket as its a tight fit and it helped slide it in place while everything is off, it may be a good idea to change any other servicable parts in this area like waterpump/thermostats etc, also removing the undertray allowed me to drain radiator water and change coolent its not hard if you can hold a spanner and know how to use a ratchet. You just need a lot of patience and as it requires removing 5/6 things one after the other just to replace one!. Also its a good idea to take pics/notes to remember how to put it back together. there may be an easier way but thats how i did it.
  23. disconnet the IBS cable completely and see if it happens again its a thin wire located just off the negative terminal in boot, common problem on e60. just search ibs (intelligent battery sensor) theres plent of info on here video on you tube aswell
  24. ive had a similar issue with my e90 but on the front though. i took it to a reputable place..all the lad did was heat up with a strong flame loosen it and make the adjustment. he was very experienced as he even compensated the adjustment to allow for the expanding / cooling of the metal when heated. i would buy the bolt as its only a couple of quid in case it does snap when being opened. if youve had the 3 adjusted, then its pointless leaving the 4th one out , a few mm or even a couple of turns on the adjuster although not obvious to the naked eye makes a huge difference to tyre wear etc. i spent £70 quid getting my car 4 wheel aligned and it made a huge difference to the drive etc
  25. hi did a search but couldnt come to any solid conclusion or answers my car is a 2007 525d m sport pre lci with media pack extended voice control i tried pressing the voice command button but nothing happens at all in my seach all i found is a common question where my answer is yes my car has 2 buttons 1 on steering wheel and the second next to the menu button of i drive can anyone shed some light please...does it need 'activating by selecting button from idrive like the shortcut or is it a fuse or a coding problem? im assuming it should work with the sat nav selected car running . when i press the button nothing happens at all thanks