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About BriC

  • Rank
  • Birthday March 30

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Sale, Manchester
  • Interests
    Cars, girls, cars, beer, cars, playstation, cars.
  • Occupation


  • Garage
    2001 BMW 540i Sport Touring 6 Speed

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  1. Hi all, My 540i Touring has been off the road over winter as it had a few issues I couldn't be arsed fixing in the cold weather. Now the weather has picked up I've pulled my finger out and I've sorted all but one. I've had the SLS inactive warning on my dash for a while now, with INPA saying it was a fault with the rear left sensor. I'd tried replacing the in the past which didn't solve the issue. I had another look at it yesterday, and noticed some of the wiring had been routed poorly by a previous owner and had rubbed through the wires. I cut the bad wire out and re-soldered some new wires in place, reconnected it all, wheels on and lowered to the ground. Started the car and cleared the SLS fault codes. I could then hear the compressor working for quite some time, and it's pumping the left side all the way up (I'm guessing as far as it will go - you could probably get a coke can in the gap). Eventually the compressor cuts out and the SLS inactive error comes up on the dash again. I read the fault codes again and it's giving me a different error but still for the rear left sensor. I forgot to take a screenshot of the error, will check again tonight or tomorrow and report back, but it said something about the measured distance being 202mm I think. Any ideas what could be causing this? I did wonder whether the sensor I replaced it with before I fixed the wires might be wrong - It's got the part number 1093697 printed on it, but according to realoem I need part number 6784697. But looking on google I think they're all pretty much the same?
  2. BriC

    540 Fault codes

    My symptoms are as follows: ABS light is on, but cruise control and speedometer work. When cold the engine runs pretty rough, and I've been getting the flashing engine light sometimes (which I believe is the misfire detection). It runs fine when warm though, on either petrol or LPG (car was converted to LPG three years/approx 25,000 miles ago) I have had the 'self levelling suspension inactive' warning on the dash for ages, it actually does work and you can hear the pump. I have a leaky airbag so the passenger side rear is sometimes on its arse when it's been parked for over a week, but it always pumps back up when I start the car So from those codes I can see it looks like the ABS issue is as a result of the steering angle control unit. The SLS issue seems to be the rear left sensor, which I have actually tried to fix once with a second hand unit. Maybe I should buy a new unit and try that. The rough running looks like it could be the camshaft sensor bank 2 - I think that would cause misfires, right?
  3. BriC

    540 Fault codes

    Here are the errors after clearing, driving, then re-reading: ABS Errors: Engine errors: Self levelling suspension errors: Steering wheel angle sensors:
  4. BriC

    540 Fault codes

    Hi all, been a while since I've posted in here. My 540 Touring has a few issues at the moment which seem to be mounting up. I've got INPA on my laptop so I've read the codes initially, cleared them, gone for a drive, then read them again. I've got a few which I'm unsure about. I've uploaded the first lot of codes before clearing and re-reading. I'll upload the second lot of codes after. ABS Errors: Engine errors: Self levelling suspension errors: Steering wheel angle sensor errors:
  5. BriC


    Hi, can I have a quote for part number 61318363631 please. It's an E39 touring rear window switch. Thanks.
  6. BriC

    Ebay under tray / wheel arch trims

    Thanks I thought they must have been discussed but a quick search didn't reveal anything, and I couldn't find anything on google. Just read that link - they look awful before he got rid of the shine and fitting looks a proper faff. I'll just go genuine. That or leave them.
  7. Has anybody used these? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-E39-M-PACK-M5-SPLASH-PANEL-BUMPER-TRIM-FRONT-INNER-FENDER-COMPARTMENT-COVER-/272012961297?hash=item3f553c6611:g:VH4AAOSwBLlVLup5 Experience says not to bother, as they're most likely cheap rubbish, but just wondered if they're worth considering given that they're less than half the price of genuine items. Cheers.
  8. Small update. Polished the headlights using a 3M kit. Worked really well, and pleased with the results - should have done this a long time ago really. Comparison of unpolished vs. polished: Both done:
  9. Couple of changes on the barge. New wheels, and walnut trim with illuminated gear knob. Also been to the Nurburgring and did a lap, but with wallowy suspension and being my first time, I took it easy. Next on the 'to do' list is polish the headlights, and it needs a new ABS sensor. Just about to hit 170,000 but showing no sign of giving up any time soon! Also, for those of you interested - I've done 10,000 miles on the LPG system now, and apart from some initial mapping issues, it's been faultless. Few pics:
  10. Not a fan of drilling into the metal, especially in that spot where water is known to collect. I don't mind people knowing I'm a skinflint anyway
  11. It's been a while since I've posted on this forum, but thought I might as well update this, since I've just treated the barge to a set of 18" Parallels. Waiting for delivery of them, with pics to follow. In my initial post I mentioned that LPG will follow, and sure enough it did - In October last year. I've done about 8k miles since, and apart from a few teething problems with the mapping of the LPG ECU, and needing a new thermostat, it's been faultless. Few pictures of the conversion - it's quite a nice install in my opinion!
  12. BriC

    E39 key losing sync

  13. BriC

    E39 key losing sync

  14. BriC

    E39 key losing sync

    Hi, My 2001 540i key is spontaneously losing sync. It's sometimes fine for a few weeks, but other times needed re-syncing in a day. It first happened a couple of months ago on my old key, where it wouldn't lock off the button, so I had to use the barrel in the drivers door and I'd just presumed the rechargeable battery had died so ordered a new key. But then the new key failed to work the remote central locking after a couple of weeks, so I did some more research into it and found that people recommended re-syncing the key (sit in car unlocked, key into accessory then back out, hold unlock whilst pressing lock three times) This worked fine on both keys, but periodically it's losing sync and I have to re-sync them. Any idea what could be causing this? I've tried googling, but couldn't find anything other than someone saying it sounds like the G3 module is going bad. Don't even know what a G3 module is!? Unless he meant GM3 body control module? Thanks.