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BriC

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About BriC

  • Rank
    OliSmith
  • Birthday March 30

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sale, Manchester
  • Interests
    Cars, girls, cars, beer, cars, playstation, cars.
  • Occupation
    Draughtsman

Garage

  • Garage
    2001 BMW 540i Sport Touring 6 Speed

Recent Profile Visitors

7,242 profile views
  1. BriC

    Is it worth continuing?

    Are you handy with tools? You could have a go at doing some of the jobs yourself. "The LEDS in the instrument cluster need repairing" - do you mean the pixelated dash issue? If so, that can be done in a few hours. From experience it looks more daunting from the photo's than it really is, but see here: http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/173729-diy-pixel-repair-lots-pictures.html "The front headlights need refurbishing to clean up the cloudy lenses." - Also a DIY job. All you need is a drill and this kit (or similar): https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Headlight-Restoration-Lens-System-Repair-Kit-Professional-Cleaning/724150829?iid=142672122885&chn=ps Great thing about BMWs of this generation in my opinion, is they're pretty easy to work on. Get yourself a copy of INPA on an old laptop with an OBD cable for fault finding and you can fix most things on the driveway.
  2. My 540i (I know we're talking about 6 cylinders here, but still...) had a cold start misfire only noticeable at idle and swapping the cam sensor on the bank which had the misfire solved the issue.
  3. BriC

    Touring rear brake lines

    Just to reiterate - My Dad and I did this recently on my 540i touring and the rear sub frame had to be dropped but the fuel tank stayed in place. Took us about 3 hours to remove the subframe and then my Dad did the brake pipes in probably about 6ish hours. Neither of us are mechanics but do work on our own cars and my Dad has a four poster ramp which made access a lot easier. Wasn't a difficult job, just time consuming.
  4. BriC

    E39 Touring Glass Microswitch Handle

    Thanks, will send payment tomorrow.
  5. Hi, Please can I have a quote for part 61318363631, the microswitch for the tailgate glass on an E39 Touring. My reg is RO51 NHM. Thanks.
  6. BriC

    E39 Touring SLS Air Bags

    Hi, can I have a quote for E39 Touring self leveling suspension air bags please? Chassis no. BH99029. It's a Sport (According to RealOEM the Sports have a different part number). I have part numbers: 37121095081 Left 37121095082 Right Thanks
  7. BriC

    Front brake disc/pads

    I've checked my part numbers on RealOEM, but my chassis no. is BH99029
  8. BriC

    Front brake disc/pads

    Hi, need new discs and pads for my E39 540i. Could I have a price for: Discs: 34116767059 Pads: 34116761252 Wear sensor: 34352229018 Also, it seems the discs are sold as a single disc so I'd need two of them - is this correct? Thanks.
  9. Just to say, I think I've narrowed this down to a bad sensor - I switched over the rear sensors from left to right, cleared the fault codes and got an error for the right hand side sensor, when the original error was with the left sensor. Just ordered a new sensor and fingers crossed it'll be sorted when I fit it.
  10. BriC

    Quote for level sensors

    Thanks, sent money over via paypal quoting my customer reference and delivery address.
  11. BriC

    Quote for level sensors

    Please can I have a quote for part number: 37146784697 delivered to mainland UK. It’s a level sensor. Thanks.
  12. As said above, that was my original issue - the wires were damaged so I've re-soldered some new sections of wire in place of the damaged wire. My original error was: After fixing the wires, reconnecting everything, then clearing the fault codes it pumps the left hand rear wheel all the way up then I get this error: Any ideas? I'd read online that after working on the SLS I should re-calibrate the settings using INPA, but I'm not really sure how I'd go about doing that.
  13. Hi all, My 540i Touring has been off the road over winter as it had a few issues I couldn't be arsed fixing in the cold weather. Now the weather has picked up I've pulled my finger out and I've sorted all but one. I've had the SLS inactive warning on my dash for a while now, with INPA saying it was a fault with the rear left sensor. I'd tried replacing the in the past which didn't solve the issue. I had another look at it yesterday, and noticed some of the wiring had been routed poorly by a previous owner and had rubbed through the wires. I cut the bad wire out and re-soldered some new wires in place, reconnected it all, wheels on and lowered to the ground. Started the car and cleared the SLS fault codes. I could then hear the compressor working for quite some time, and it's pumping the left side all the way up (I'm guessing as far as it will go - you could probably get a coke can in the gap). Eventually the compressor cuts out and the SLS inactive error comes up on the dash again. I read the fault codes again and it's giving me a different error but still for the rear left sensor. I forgot to take a screenshot of the error, will check again tonight or tomorrow and report back, but it said something about the measured distance being 202mm I think. Any ideas what could be causing this? I did wonder whether the sensor I replaced it with before I fixed the wires might be wrong - It's got the part number 1093697 printed on it, but according to realoem I need part number 6784697. But looking on google I think they're all pretty much the same?
  14. BriC

    540 Fault codes

    My symptoms are as follows: ABS light is on, but cruise control and speedometer work. When cold the engine runs pretty rough, and I've been getting the flashing engine light sometimes (which I believe is the misfire detection). It runs fine when warm though, on either petrol or LPG (car was converted to LPG three years/approx 25,000 miles ago) I have had the 'self levelling suspension inactive' warning on the dash for ages, it actually does work and you can hear the pump. I have a leaky airbag so the passenger side rear is sometimes on its arse when it's been parked for over a week, but it always pumps back up when I start the car So from those codes I can see it looks like the ABS issue is as a result of the steering angle control unit. The SLS issue seems to be the rear left sensor, which I have actually tried to fix once with a second hand unit. Maybe I should buy a new unit and try that. The rough running looks like it could be the camshaft sensor bank 2 - I think that would cause misfires, right?
  15. BriC

    540 Fault codes

    Here are the errors after clearing, driving, then re-reading: ABS Errors: Engine errors: Self levelling suspension errors: Steering wheel angle sensors:
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