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Everything posted by stevecvo

  1. They roar because they are passing a lot of air and doing the job they were designed for. I would only worry if the fan was roaring in cold weather or before the engine reached its operating temperature in warm weather but usually when they fail it is because the clutch fails to lock in and hence no roar when hot.
  2. Could well be engine mounts.I had the same symptoms, particularly so when reversing up an incline. If your car is an auto try putting it in drive with your foot on the brake and rev the engine with the bonnet open to see if the engine moves. I seem to remember that there is a YouTube video about this
  3. Has anyone installed new tubes to the engine mounts in situ as access to the underside of the mounts looks almost impossible? If so how did you do it?
  4. Has nobody else done this job? My new vacuum hose arrives from the UK next week.
  5. I bought mine new in 2001 as a sort of retirement present and it replaced the Renault Laguna and Honda Accord Aerodeck that we were running while I was working. To be honest I started out looking at a VW Passat but they were changing the model and new ones were not around. I looked at a Merc C class at the Motor Show but my wife said that since I had always admired the E39 and frequently said that it was the European car of the year I should pay the extra and get one. I went over the Belgium and test drove a BMW 525d, a Merc 220d and a Merc 320d. I quickly decided that I liked 6 cylinders and although I marginally preferred the 320 Merc I settled for the cheaper 525d. I bought it in Belgium because in those days this gave a good saving and picked it up at the docks in Dartford. I loved it from the minute I got it and still do. It was a class above the everyday cars that I was used to driving and it still feels good 16 years later. The irony was that I paid extra to get a RHD UK spec car build for Belgium and then some 18 months later I moved permanently to the Algarve.
  6. Bloody hell. That is cheap if you can undertake the removal.
  7. Does anyone have experience of the bit of kit? I am not bothered about high quality sound - the standard radio in the car sounds OK to me - and I know from enquiring that the SatNav maps are not updatable but on paper it looks fair value at £210 and a relatively easy to install. The model number is ICE/HU/PF7139BGTS and the link to the Ebay ad is:-
  8. Any course is going to need to be supplemented by a lot of experience to successfully tackle a job like that without compromising the structural integrity of the car. Luckily my car has lived in Portugal since it was 18 months old and in the absence of ice and the dreaded salt rust is not really a problem here. Sun damage to rubber items is however another matter but is more easily and cheaply remedied.
  9. In the circumstances I think that you are entitled to reject the sofa and ask for a refund but this may leave you without any sofa. I guess the problem arises from the fact that this sort of stuff is made to order and there is not a stock from which a replacement can be immediately supplied. The store which supplied the sofa does not seem to have much of an idea of customer service and has failed to reassure you that the matter will be resolved satisfactorily. I don't think that a leather match is likely to be a problem especially as the damage is to the side but you might advise the store that you reserve the right to reject the item if the repair is unsatisfactory and at the same time enquire as to how they propose to recompense you for the inconvenience that you have suffered.
  10. Thanks for your replies. I am ashamed to confess that I have never looked at the Audio section but I have now seen the fairly lengthy item on this sort of thing and read a bit of it. Unfortunately I think I am going to find many mixed views with some quite happy and others bitterly opposed to this end of the Chinese market. I will read up some more but as I am not a HiFi fanatic I may well have a punt on this or something similar.
  11. So he is human after all!! - but normally right and very knowledgeable I have to say
  12. Thanks for that. I am impressed. When I changed my mounts I pulled the hoses complete with connectors out of the mounts and then inserted them into the new mounts before I bolted the mounting plated back on the chassis. From what you say it looks as if you left the connectors in the mounts and joined new tubing to them. Tricky but probably a bit more doable than removing the connectors.
  13. While I was doing an oil change yesterday I removed the undertray to see if I could find the source of an small oil leak on the right hand side of the engine. I could not see where the leak was coming from but I did find that the right hand side steering rack boot had split in two and that the engine mount had seriously deteriorated, possibly due to the effects of the oil leak over a long period of time. Unfortunately the right hand side engine mount is very much more inaccessible than the left and while I thought I had seen a guide on here for the replacement job my searches have failed to find it. Can anyone point to the guide or alternatively say how the job should be tackled,please?
  14. Thanks Clavurion. Awsome knowledge as usual. So where the parts list shows tubes as 3.5 x 2 is the second figure the thickness of the wall and not the diameter as I had assumed? I assume that there is no problem with renewing all the pipes in 3.5 diameter since there must be minimal difference between the effects of a bore of 3.5 and one of 3.3. Out of interest do you know the basis of BMW's thinking in using two different sizes in the vacuum lines?
  15. Has anyone had experience of this 2mm ID tubing?
  16. Having looked at this in more detail I see that the inner diameter of the tubing is 3.5 whereas for the E39 it should be a mix of 2.0 and 1.8 as far as I know. I phoned the Ebay company and they said that the 3.5 is not compatible with the E39 and they don't stock anything which is. I will keep searching.
  17. I hope that you are lucky and it is a wheel sensor. A failing ABS module can also give these symptoms and sometimes diagnostics show falsely that a wheel sensor has failed. If you get a failed sensor report try swapping the sensors and see if the fault moves to the other side.
  18. Thanks. That is a good price. Someone was asking 4.95 per 100mm length for tubing in the different colours that BMW use
  19. I have now resolved the vibration issue by replacing the left hand mount as well. The problem arose from following the BMW guide I found which said when replacing the right hand mount it was necessary to slacken off the top nut on the left hand mount. I did wonder about this but thought that they should know what they are doing and that this would give the clearance needed. Unfortunately it was necessary to raise the engine quite high to remove the right hand mount and the resulting pressure on the left hand mount distorted it so that when I lowered the engine again the left hand sat high and tilted the engine over to the right. The moral is to remove the left hand top nut so that the engine can rise totally free of the mount. I did however find that the black vacuum hose between the mounts had perished and was obviously not holding a vacuum. I managed to join in a small section of tube to give a temporary repair and this seems to be working to some extent. There is a very small amount of resonance when the revs drop back to tickover but to be honest I can't now remember whether this was always there. Unfortunately I do not see how the hoses can be connected to the mounts on either side without raising the engine, releasing the mount supports from the chassis and twisting the unit to gain access to the underside. I am going to order some hose so that I can do the job at a later date but a lot of the stuff listed on Ebay does not seem compatible with my car. Can anyone recommend a good source for the tubing, please
  20. No it is a straight replacement and not a difficult job. Some people run without the fan at all but you need the viscous fan to be working well. Stopping the fan with a folded newspaper is an often used test but I think it is better to take the unit off and place it on a hotplate. You will quickly see whether the fan stiffens up.
  21. The problem I found was that I had to unbolt the unit that the right hand mount sits on before I could get to the vacuum tube and that meant unbolting the top connection as well. I refitted the tube and the bottom nut on the mount before rebolting the unit to the chassis. I would be very happy to hear how people have tackled the renewal of the vacuum hoses to the mounts. Several of the posts I have read replaced other tubes but fought shy of the mounts.
  22. I changed the mount today but it was a pain in the arse. None of the nuts and bolts are easily accessible and it took me 3 hours before I had the old mount out. It was well past it´s sell by date see photo. I had both mounts replaced by BMW 9 years and 95000 miles ago and looking back at the invoice the price of 234 euros for the job looks a bargain and certainly not worth doing it yourself on the basis. Unfortunately I suspect prices have risen a bit in the interim. The new mount went in without too much trouble but working from the floor rather than a ramp takes extra effort. Unfortunately while my engine now holds pretty rock steady when I put in gear and rev it with the brakes on I now have a heavy vibration at tick over. With the old mount I had a very slight resonance as the revs dropped to tickover. I suspect that the vacuum system to the mounts is not working and with a new stiff mount I get vibration whereas the old mount was soft enough to absorb most of this. Feeling tired and pissed off now so I will leave it to another day to follow up. I really don´t fancy trying to follow the tubes round and I see no way of putting new ones on the mounts without unbolting the support plates to get to the underside of the mounts. I suppose the only other possibility is that in raising the engine I have strained something else. Happy days.
  23. A failed pusher fan is not going to cause this problem but I would test the viscous fan as a failed unit will not provide the airflow needed when the air temperatures are high. I suspect you have just been unlucky. I had a header tank leak at the joint and also underneath where the recess is for a level indicator. The gradual loss of fluid went unnoticed until suddenly the car overheated in hot weather but I caught it before the gauge rose too far. I replaced the tank with an OE one and this sorted the problem. I kept a careful eye on the water level after this and when I noticed it dropping again I found that I had a leak from the Y shaped coolant connector under the inlet manifold. I fitted a new one and the water level has remained good since. I also had a leak from the EGR thermostat before the tank gave up the ghost. I agree that you should see what temperature your engine is running at. Unfortunately even with no faults temperatures under the bonnet get very high and after a few years this plays havoc with all the plastic parts including washer jet pipes and ABS modules as I have found out to my cost.
  24. When my car failed to start once it was a faulty cam or crankshaft sensor. Maybe if you said where you are in Somerset there is a possibility that there is someone nearby who could read the codes to try and identify the fault.
  25. In answer to my own question I found this