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  1. Dead battery, how do I get in the car!

    Good that you are sorted. I have found that it works like that. One door works and the other does not. It may just be the fact that one is looser than the other. Never looked to see why that is because when its open you do not care.
  2. Dead battery, how do I get in the car!

    Hi Lift the door handle.Then insert the key and unlock. If it does not work on the driver side then do it on the passenger side (that is the side I would do first) The handle must be lifted first and held up before you turn the key.
  3. Advice desperately needed

    That is a good picture of what I described. You cant see the rusting of the metal and the hose is intact. I have an e12 and the hose is the same as the e28 hose. There is no deterioration of the hose at all, and it is close to 40 years old. It is like BMW underseal it will be here long after humans. If your hose is not like the hose in the photo then it probably has been changed. Could it have been damaged when the welding was done? I nicked the drain hose on a car previously when doing a repair and added a joiner to extend it out as in the photo. I would remove the door seal and peel back the headliner where it is stuck to the door frame. Check with a torch to see if it is ok then remove the speaker and try to feel for the hose which may have been pushed up. Pull it down while someone checks to make sure it is not pulled off the sunroof mounting.
  4. Advice desperately needed

    The route of the drain hose is from the front of the sunroof cassette through the A pillar down to the rear of the speaker well. I have routed the hose out through a hole to the inner wing. If you remove the speaker you should be able to see it or feel it. You can remove the door rubber at the front and peel back the headliner to see it attached to the sunroof cassette. The hose is a rigid type of plastic. It is not like the rubber hoses on the car. I have seen the drain at the front rotten with rust and separated from the hose but the hose is intact. Remove the speaker and check yourself the type of hose.
  5. New bloke with E12 M535i

    When you mentioned the e12 race car I thought of Geoff Weeks as he had an e12 race car. I have had my e12 since 1990 and bought parts from him. In a time long ago when there was no internet and you made calls from a phone box.
  6. New bloke with E12 M535i

    Your reasoning is sound as it is often when cars are neglected or owned by people with no mechanical sympathy. The sub frame issue even occurred with the E46. The E28 bush would break but the mounting would not. If the bush in the E12 goes it will quickly take the mounting as there is so little support. The differential panel is available for the remarkable price of €65 from BMW. I have just got one from BMW Classic. Would your friend be Geoff Weeks who had ETA originally?
  7. Bilstein B12 Kit Upgrade

    Hi The E34 had a number of different topmounts fitted. It depended on engine sizes Early mounts changed around 90/91 The diameter of the damper is not the issue it is the diameter and length of the piston rod. They need to match. If you do a search you will see the variety of dampers because of the top mount issue. Check your vin in realoem and measure the size of the nut and rod of the damper piston. You could buy new top mounts to suit your new suspension kit which is a worthwhile improvement.
  8. New bloke with E12 M535i

    Hi Looks good under there. Your diff mount looks good, would you think of reinforcing it. They could crack where the mounting attaches. It was a poor design which was changed for the later e28 cars. There is an official BMW repair. Link to page http://www.firstfives.org/faq/diffmount/bulletin.html
  9. New bloke with E12 M535i

    That is very nice work. I think the way you are going about it is the way to do it. Do it in manageable sections so that the car is not off the road for long periods. I stripped my car to a shell and it means that you lose interest and it keeps being put on the back of the line of things to do. Going to far is stripping the diff and replacing clutch and disc parts of the Lsd new bearings and seals. That is why I do not have a car, just a large collection of parts which are in boxes. Keep it on the road and enjoy it.
  10. New bloke with E12 M535i

    If you keep going at this rate you might end up spending as much as me on an e12 M535i.https://shop.bmw-classic.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/WFS/Classic-ClassicDE-Site/en_EU/-/EUR/ViewStandardCatalog-Browse;pgid=XsFgCXFuiy1SR0QXJYojPjIT0000OauA49Xh;sid=vt839OyPK56P8LWNnTYcrt4vf45ciiUciEI=?CatalogID=Shop&CategoryName=SEARCH_AUTOMOBILE I am an addict and keep giving them more and more money. The gasket and many parts are cheaper than BMW dealer. Prices are in Euro and free delivery with orders above €75 are free. Don't get addicted and leave some parts for other people
  11. New bloke with E12 M535i

    With regard to the plating of the diff mounting bolts if you buy new ones from BMW they will not be yellow passivated, they never were. The bolts are a high tensile steel either a 10.9 or 12.9 grade which is marked on the head of the bolt. The normal 8.8 grade bolts are passivated. All the high tensile bolts were in a black finish. If you google "hydrogen embrittlement" the plating process can cause this which can cause failure in high tensile steel possibly why new bolts were never plated. I bought one of those plating kits two years ago but have not plated anything yet so I cannot say how good it is but It is easier to get what you need plated professionally.
  12. Control arms/ Bushes

    Hi Looking at your picture you have an e28 control arm and the lower one is an e34 control arm with an e28 bush fitted. I have just fitted a modified e34 bush to an e34 arm which appears to fit the e28 ok. The e28 and e34 arm are the same length but slightly different shape as you can see. The bush on the e34 is larger and will not fit the e28 housing.
  13. Torque setting

    The M means metric. The number after the M is the nominal diameter of the bolt or nut so the threaded shaft is 22mm or 27mm. The nut would be a nominal 22 or 27mm. The 36mm is the diameter across the flats of the nut. The link above is the grade of bolt 8.8 being a standard high tensile going up to 12.9. The higher tensile bolt can be tightened to a higher torque setting.
  14. e28 M88

    The spot weld is far easier than running a good steady bead. You should start at the easy things first. You can buy a spot weld tip for your torch that you place on the panel and with the wire tip in the centre of the hole pull the trigger for a set time no skill needed at all except to set voltage and wire speed. My welder has a timer so you can set the time for the arc to last. Reality is it is never used. I had one of the spot weld tips which I misplaced (did not miss it) If the weld breaks then you need to increase the voltage as with good penetration the sheet metal should break around the spot weld as it is stronger than the sheet metal. There will be more grinding at the top to allow the door seal to fit on and the more you do of it, you get fed up of grinding down metal. If this is the only car you do then you will not be bothered.
  15. e28 M88

    Hi Seam welding is the strongest repair. Downside is the more welding removes any protection so unless it can be cleaned down and painted then you need to put a rust preventative in the sill. If the substance does not cover the entire interior then it will still rust in areas not covered. If you could hire a spot welder then you can use a weld through primer on the mating surface and is the quickest cleanest finish. If you do not have access to a spot welder then drilling or punching a 5-6mm hole and welding can produce a weld slightly higher than a spot weld (practice on scrap first with a slightly higher heat setting than normally used for butt welding. As you say best to do it from the inside out for neatness. Make sure that you can get the torch to all parts first. When fitting the outer sill you can pop rivet with a 3mm rivet in place and make sure that the gaps to the doors are correct. Weld it up when satisfied and then remove the rivets and weld the small holes. For the parts where the sills join you can tack a slip of metal strip to act like a flange as on your repair panel. Makes it easier to join the two sections of the sill.