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  1. When you mentioned the e12 race car I thought of Geoff Weeks as he had an e12 race car. I have had my e12 since 1990 and bought parts from him. In a time long ago when there was no internet and you made calls from a phone box.
  2. Your reasoning is sound as it is often when cars are neglected or owned by people with no mechanical sympathy. The sub frame issue even occurred with the E46. The E28 bush would break but the mounting would not. If the bush in the E12 goes it will quickly take the mounting as there is so little support. The differential panel is available for the remarkable price of €65 from BMW. I have just got one from BMW Classic. Would your friend be Geoff Weeks who had ETA originally?
  3. Hi The E34 had a number of different topmounts fitted. It depended on engine sizes Early mounts changed around 90/91 The diameter of the damper is not the issue it is the diameter and length of the piston rod. They need to match. If you do a search you will see the variety of dampers because of the top mount issue. Check your vin in realoem and measure the size of the nut and rod of the damper piston. You could buy new top mounts to suit your new suspension kit which is a worthwhile improvement.
  4. Hi Looks good under there. Your diff mount looks good, would you think of reinforcing it. They could crack where the mounting attaches. It was a poor design which was changed for the later e28 cars. There is an official BMW repair. Link to page http://www.firstfives.org/faq/diffmount/bulletin.html
  5. That is very nice work. I think the way you are going about it is the way to do it. Do it in manageable sections so that the car is not off the road for long periods. I stripped my car to a shell and it means that you lose interest and it keeps being put on the back of the line of things to do. Going to far is stripping the diff and replacing clutch and disc parts of the Lsd new bearings and seals. That is why I do not have a car, just a large collection of parts which are in boxes. Keep it on the road and enjoy it.
  6. If you keep going at this rate you might end up spending as much as me on an e12 M535i.https://shop.bmw-classic.com/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/WFS/Classic-ClassicDE-Site/en_EU/-/EUR/ViewStandardCatalog-Browse;pgid=XsFgCXFuiy1SR0QXJYojPjIT0000OauA49Xh;sid=vt839OyPK56P8LWNnTYcrt4vf45ciiUciEI=?CatalogID=Shop&CategoryName=SEARCH_AUTOMOBILE I am an addict and keep giving them more and more money. The gasket and many parts are cheaper than BMW dealer. Prices are in Euro and free delivery with orders above €75 are free. Don't get addicted and leave some parts for other people
  7. With regard to the plating of the diff mounting bolts if you buy new ones from BMW they will not be yellow passivated, they never were. The bolts are a high tensile steel either a 10.9 or 12.9 grade which is marked on the head of the bolt. The normal 8.8 grade bolts are passivated. All the high tensile bolts were in a black finish. If you google "hydrogen embrittlement" the plating process can cause this which can cause failure in high tensile steel possibly why new bolts were never plated. I bought one of those plating kits two years ago but have not plated anything yet so I cannot say how good it is but It is easier to get what you need plated professionally.
  8. Hi Looking at your picture you have an e28 control arm and the lower one is an e34 control arm with an e28 bush fitted. I have just fitted a modified e34 bush to an e34 arm which appears to fit the e28 ok. The e28 and e34 arm are the same length but slightly different shape as you can see. The bush on the e34 is larger and will not fit the e28 housing.
  9. The M means metric. The number after the M is the nominal diameter of the bolt or nut so the threaded shaft is 22mm or 27mm. The nut would be a nominal 22 or 27mm. The 36mm is the diameter across the flats of the nut. The link above is the grade of bolt 8.8 being a standard high tensile going up to 12.9. The higher tensile bolt can be tightened to a higher torque setting.
  10. The spot weld is far easier than running a good steady bead. You should start at the easy things first. You can buy a spot weld tip for your torch that you place on the panel and with the wire tip in the centre of the hole pull the trigger for a set time no skill needed at all except to set voltage and wire speed. My welder has a timer so you can set the time for the arc to last. Reality is it is never used. I had one of the spot weld tips which I misplaced (did not miss it) If the weld breaks then you need to increase the voltage as with good penetration the sheet metal should break around the spot weld as it is stronger than the sheet metal. There will be more grinding at the top to allow the door seal to fit on and the more you do of it, you get fed up of grinding down metal. If this is the only car you do then you will not be bothered.
  11. Hi Seam welding is the strongest repair. Downside is the more welding removes any protection so unless it can be cleaned down and painted then you need to put a rust preventative in the sill. If the substance does not cover the entire interior then it will still rust in areas not covered. If you could hire a spot welder then you can use a weld through primer on the mating surface and is the quickest cleanest finish. If you do not have access to a spot welder then drilling or punching a 5-6mm hole and welding can produce a weld slightly higher than a spot weld (practice on scrap first with a slightly higher heat setting than normally used for butt welding. As you say best to do it from the inside out for neatness. Make sure that you can get the torch to all parts first. When fitting the outer sill you can pop rivet with a 3mm rivet in place and make sure that the gaps to the doors are correct. Weld it up when satisfied and then remove the rivets and weld the small holes. For the parts where the sills join you can tack a slip of metal strip to act like a flange as on your repair panel. Makes it easier to join the two sections of the sill.
  12. There is a light control relay underneath the dash on the drivers side. Its is probably the relay or the connections to it. It is not a standard relay as it controls the light delay.
  13. Well done on getting it in. When I first tried e12/28 screen I could not get it to fit. The lower trim would not seat correctly. Previous screens I had fitted the trim after the window was in. What I found with the lower trim was to fit it to the windscreen rubber before fitting then run string around the rubber. Place in the opening and using the string to pull the lip over the metal surround. Then fit the upper trim which is easy if you use a spreader tool. (can be made from suitable wire) I then found out that BMW seemed to agree that the lower trim was fitted first then the upper. The manual suggests all trim is fitted before the windscreen is fitted. I have found for rear screens it is easier to fit the screen then the trim but for the front the bigger trim makes it to difficult. LInk to the manual https://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/057en/index.htm
  14. Re hub nut. You are aware of the lock ring? The nut will undo with an air gun. If no gun then a length of scaffold pole on a 3/4 breaker bar. I did it a long time ago by putting the arm underneath a shed and using a seven foot length of pipe. The leverage made if simple. could not move it with the two foot breaker bar. Triple the length of the lever triple the force.
  15. You may not have to remove all three layers. Remove the first layer around the mounting and you will see how the second layer is and go from there. If you do have to remove a lot a jig would be straight forward. A length of box section with two holes drilled at the spacing of the two mounting bolts. Put your two mounting bolts through the box section. If you drill one hole about 14mm and the top around 16mm your bolt should be an interference fit just like in the car. This can then be fitted inside with the bolts in the old holes and the box section fixed inside the car by tack welds or bolted. You can then cut away without affecting the location of the bolt. I made one from 40x40mm steel which can be used below to support the car without a crossmember. The idea should be easily adaptable to inside the car.