TomGC

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TomGC last won the day on October 29 2012

TomGC had the most liked content!

About TomGC

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 03/24/1991

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Donington

Garage

  • Garage
    E34 535i Sport / E36 323i SE Touring
  1. The Wilwoods, more than anything else, seem like great value. I've seen them up close at a trade show and had a chat with the rep - they're really quite nicely finished, to a level which belies their price. If you can get access to a machine shop to make brackets, that is. I originally got the idea from a chap in the States who has built a heavily turbo'd 525i. (Many pages to sift through over lunch there!) Subframe bushes - there's a special tool. I believe someone on here hires one out, but this is going back a few years now. Of course one can burn them out but I've never been overly fond of that idea, and it doesn't cure the problem of getting the new ones in.
  2. ...whoops! Been a while since I taught my granny to suck eggs. I agree with your point on cooling - more likelihood of stopping more mass from more speed more often on the 540. Diminishing returns is the thing - for me I would see no benefit in larger OEM because of the cost / work to refurb them to as new and extra mass added. Unless you're planning to work the car hard - in which case I reckon go big or go home. I've done the calcs for going to oppos on my 535. Can't find them off hand, but IIRC you can spec Wilwood Superlites in 6- and 4-pot flavour to work with either the standard MC or (again IIRC) one off an E38 and everything balances up (with a bit more rear bias) quite nicely. Thieves stock them, and they're not mad money. Just hopefully can be made to drop under my 17s also...! I have experience of the DS2500 on my 306. People will say they need some temperature in them but wasn't really an issue for me - one stop and they're fine. No puckered moments. I didn't experience any real noise worth reporting. I did trackdays on them on rebuilt sliding calipers with braided lines and they were fine - pretty good in fact. Compared to some of the EBC horror stories I've seen first hand. Only thing I don't know is how aggressive they are on the discs - didn't do enough miles on them to find out. Soft pad / good disc combo is the way forward I reckon.
  3. Great project, love this. Brakes are easy to get wrong. In an ideal world you'd have all four wheels lock at exactly the same time - that way you're using all four tyres to their maximum and getting the most deceleration. The standard setup is basically designed to have enough front bias so that the fronts lock only just before the rears (under all circumstances) - for predictability at the expense of a little bit of performance. You can get a little bit more performance by sending the bias rearward in the E34, but it's balance is pretty good on paper. Brake component sizing is then a question of how much heat they have to reject. You won't get any more braking torque by making the brakes bigger - only increased resistance to fade and warping. If you only make the fronts bigger as a lot of people do, you will likely push the bias further forward and actually get less braking performance overall. Plus a lot more weight on the corners which is exactly where you don't want it. I'd say the best solution is to refurb the calipers so they slide freely and don't stick (maximise the amount of pedal effort that gets to the discs), get some good quality (OEM) vented discs (less likely to warp than cheap ones and will last a long time), run braided hoses (to firm the pedal up a bit), and choose a good quality fast road / light track pad to fit all round (good friction / bite / pedal feel / resistance to heat). I'd go Ferodo DS2500 if you can get it - expensive, but don't be tempted to fit just the fronts as you'll alter the bias. Sourcing bigger OEM kit is going to be quite a lot of work for no real benefit, extra weight - and at the end of the day you still have floppy sliding calipers that are never going to set the world on fire. (Although they might themselves.) If you want to go all out, you can fit two-piece "lightweight" discs from an E60 (the cast rotor floats on an ally bell) and combine with proper fixed opposed piston ally calipers - for perfect bias, a rock hard pedal, and endurance-race winning levels of fade resistance. Or just racecar looks. Sorry for the essay. Look forward to seeing more!
  4. My knowledge of the newer cars is limited, but on the older ones I believe the deadlock can be mechanically deactivated by turning the key whilst the handle is lifted. Worth a try?
  5. Just paint for now Duncan, but will clad the bit we can see from the house with cedar when funds allow. Most entertaining car I've owned. On nearly 200k, been nothing but pain for 4 years and needs a full engine build but can't bring myself to part with it!
  6. More deliveries... Door going up: Finally enclosed!
  7. Cheers! In the meantime, less of the building, more of the motors... Went to town on the boss' F20, which was much overdue for some love after living on a building site for the best part of six months. Much better.
  8. Thanks for the input everyone. Still just at the thinking out loud stage at the minute really. Have organised to have a chat with one of the pro welders at work, will report back. Hadn't come across the Oxford machines, Kobayashi - thanks for the tip. They look good.
  9. Evening chaps, would like to get some opinions from those with experience. Bit of background. Got an E34 to restore. Family heirloom of sorts. Rotten: sills, arches, possible floor. Not a small job, but must be done. Aim to do it properly, full strip to shell, bare metal respray etc. Am building garage / workshop now for the purpose, sucked up all of my funds. No surprise. Appreciate job of this sort will not come cheap. Not a problem there, will happily pay for skilled trades. I am a perfectionist however; and if I can do something myself, I tend to want to. It is a project car after all. In all likelihood will be 2-3 years before I have the funds to pay someone to do the bodywork for me. I'm quite handy, and have reasonable metalworking / fabrication experience; including a little TIG (steel spaceframes). Never touched a MIG. Question is: do I drop £4-600 on a half decent machine now and get stuck in practicing for a couple of years (keep me quiet), with a view to doing the E34 myself; or am I likely never to get to the standard required? How long is a piece of string I know, but I understand that bodywork is not something to be taken lightly. I don't want to buy the thing and have no real use for it, as fun as it would be to play around. I've read up I feel as much as I can but need to talk to some people really. Do I go old school transformer or inverter multi-process (TIG may be a nice option but I don't want to pay for it if it's a gimmick), pulse MIG, etc.? I don't get overly excited by Chinese or English stuff (Clarke etc.) but will consider anything if it's the right tool for the job. Have a Migatronic dealer close by, and the Rallymig looks like a decent bit of kit. Do I scratch the MIG idea and go straight in with a TIG machine? Look forward to hearing your thoughts, thanks in advance. Tom
  10. Big push for the bank holiday. Beast returns for a day of squashing hardcore (many, many hours of levelling preceded this): Haven't seen on of these in a while: Big pile, small barrow, smaller shovel. Much sunshine, many sweat: Better:
  11. You can. I'm working within PD near a boundary, so 2.5m max. overall height. I had a general builder on the project, subbing out to brickies. Long story short, builder was the weak link, misunderstood / ignored the requirement and we ended up with the walls too tall to bring wall plate / joist / fall in within the height limit. Builder blamed the brickies and me, combined with other issues and nastiness, in the end easiest solution was to kick him into touch and take the brickies on myself. Top hung metal web joists avoided redoing top three courses and lintels or compromising door / window size.
  12. Thanks Dan! Yep, love the stuff. Will give that a go. With caution, as the Mrs wants some lawn when we're finished too...
  13. Miscellaneous progress. Starting to come together now... As all most some virtually no good things start with a proper plan: Breaking up excess concrete; though I appreciated finding out what these are like inside, this wasn't the best time: (about 35cc I reckon) Remember the rhubarb? Apparently rhubarb can survive a nuclear winter. We should build cars out of this stuff. More materials: Dig a trench: (extra reinforcement at the apex, just in case) Put bricks in: Stick plastic frames into holes. Second-hand door seemingly and frustratingly the only cost-saving element of this build: Level hardcore. Again. And it's still not finished. Don't ever be tempted to build a road by hand. You convince yourself it's a good idea, it's only 20m, easily doable, how hard can it be, etc. Moving this stuff is like rowing through treacle.
  14. Smashing.