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TomGC last won the day on October 29 2012

TomGC had the most liked content!

About TomGC

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 03/24/1991

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  • Garage
    E34 535i Sport / E36 323i SE Touring
  1. Yes the 100Ah will last longer in the E34, it makes sense to fit the biggest one you can in the car that gets used least often. If you can though, fit a float (not trickle) charger to avoid ever draining the battery too much. Lead acid batteries aren't designed to be left undercharged (this is how they permanently lose most of their capacity). The plates corrode whenever the voltage is lower than when fully charged (12.8v), the longer they are left corroded the less capacity the battery will retain. Ideally they should be charged fully, immediately after any discharge. The gel-type (called AGM or VRLA) batteries handle deep / consistent discharge much better than liquid types, as they are less susceptible to corrosion on the plates. But they are expensive and not necessary if you can keep the battery charged. If the battery in the E38 is old and has had a life of being undercharged, this is a more likely reason for sluggish starting than the rating being too low. The tracker in the E34 probably kills the battery so quickly because the battery has consistently been drained by the tracker. It's a vicious circle. Nothing wrong with using an old one even if it is a bit short of breath, but if you can't float charge the one in the E34 then an AGM might be a good purchase.
  2. Cracking read. Looks like a good turnout. Nice city too, I've been that way a few times myself.
  3. No worries, I completely understand! Good luck with the search, it seems people are trying their hardest to push the prices of these skyward.
  4. Does it have to be a Sport? A friend of mine has a very well looked after 530d SE saloon auto, pre-facelift on a W IIRC. Silver / black leather, upgrade audio, circa 120k on the clock and FSH. Possibly at BMW but I wouldn't like you to hold me to it...
  5. Will it lift a Peugeot XU10?
  6. Nice looking car you have there. Tripping the ABS will be due to low grip at the contact patch rather than poor brake efficiency. This is most likely caused by poor quality or mismatched (F to R) tyres. Worn dampers or other suspension components could also cause this, but recent bills and low mileage suggest this isn't the case. As CG suggests, fresh consumables are are all that will be required unless you're going to the track. You can fit big heavy discs and calipers off an M5 or E31 if you really want, but they will do little but worsen the ride and handling.
  7. Just to add, if the car gets used sporadically / for short trips which will tend to leave the battery consistently undercharged, the bigger the better to help mitigate the effects of self-discharge and sulfation.
  8. As far as I understand it, CCA is a bit of an outdated measure of battery performance. You are right in thinking the car will only pull the amps it needs, which should be no more than ~3-400 under normal starting conditions. So long as it's around or above 80Ah (measure of total energy capacity rather than peak current) it will be fine for use in the E34.
  9. Worn engine mounts can cause things to contact that don't appear obvious when inspecting a stationary car. Viscous fan contacting the shroud springs to mind. We had this on an E36 where the engine was shifting mid-corner and binding the steering column up. Identified by doing a couple of laps with a gopro under the bonnet.
  10. Great info, thanks. I never imagined you'd be able to capture that much detail in such a short time, especially when competing with the artificial light. Hence why I thought composite / long exposure. Couple with the fact you said 'between midnight and 2am', I assumed 2hr exposure. My camera is old now (40D), doubt the film speed would be high enough to cope with this stuff, but seeing these shots has really tempted me to drag it out of storage and play around again. I have a nice 12mm f/4 Tokina but from what you say I reckon this might be a limiting factor. How do you rate the Samyang? Just looked them up and they seem reasonably priced. *must not get distracted, I have a car to restore*
  11. The newer valve-regulated batteries (AGM) can handle deep discharge better than the traditional atmospheric pressure liquid electrolyte designs; which is why they are used in start-stop systems. The electrolytre in traditional batteries tends to boil off when deep discharged, which reduces their capacity. There's no real difference in the chemistry or performance between the two, just the form the electrolyte takes. If you don't have start-stop (I guess the E60 doesn't) you don't need an AGM / gel / VRLA. I'd just buy whichever Bosch or Yuasa is the cheapest with a 5 year warranty (find a mate with a Halfrauds trade card).
  12. Absolutely.
  13. The WAR (Write And Read IIRC) chip is mappable, but the Turner / Conforti one has a set map developed by them. I believe the US cars run lower compression and their 91 'pump gas' is a bit different to our 95, in which case their map wont be much good for UK cars.
  14. Fantastic stuff. Are they 2 hr exposures or a composite of shorter ones? (Or both?!) And how did you deal with the buildings on the right of the final shot?
  15. Just looking into the Unichip now, hadn't seen it before, looks good. Either that or the Miller War chip from the States. Maybe Megasquirt if feeling really flush but I think it may take more work for no benefit. At the very least these could be used to delete the AFM and make the most of the cam. Getting the sound out appeals - at present it sounds lovely if you crouch by the rear bumper. If budget allows I will use Intrax 1K2 coilovers, which come with adjustable top mounts. I installed PU bushes in the front end a few years back and have since decided it's a bad idea on these. I also have them on the 306 where they work really well, the problem with the 5ers is the multi-link arms. Because the outer ball joints attach to the upright either side of the steering axis, big steering angles require the arms to have a bit of freedom to rotate about the upright and translate along the length of the arm. The PU top-hat bushes restrict this. Instead I'm going with the ally track arms from the E31 which use a spherical bearing rather than a rubber bush, and the standard fluid bushes for the thrust arms. Thinking about brakes, by the time I've sourced and rebuilt big heavy BMW calipers in order to run bigger discs (M5 are only marginally bigger than 535i on the E34, E38 4 pots don't fit properly), I am nearly to the cost of proper opposed ally calipers. I can machine up some radial caliper mounts quite easily (and probably get them heat treated at work too), and spec my own calipers for use with 2 piece discs from the E60 535d.