M5 London

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Everything posted by M5 London

  1. Nice one Alex ! One of the coolest cars ever built by BMW !
  2. Just on another note, do your best to torque the sensor up evenly as possible so the gasket seats well and evenly....have heard several stories of ongoing oil leaks after replacing this sensor.
  3. Ask them to send you 8 Litres of oil too
  4. I believe I used the Hella Web catalogue as stated by Jake above. Got the same Article Number as stated above too : 6PR007868-031 Then found it through these suppliers (who are still doing them but for £76.60) : http://www.incarmotorfactors.co.uk/en/search?controller=search&orderby=position&orderway=desc&search_query=6PR+007+868-031&submit_search= Also these are the details of my original purchase back in August 2014 : 6PR007868-031 Hella Oil Level Sensor £68.40 1 £68.40 Products £68.40 Discounts £0.00 Gift-wrapping £0.00 Shipping £1.50 Total Tax paid £11.40 Total paid £69.90
  5. Seems quite a capable performer....the new M5 :
  6. I remember buying a genuine Hella item but it was about £70 from a Motor factor. It worked fine.
  7. They look good (the bottom two rows in both columns (each engine bank)). Also do your top two rows in both columns actually fluctuate when viewing them (voltage should be switching)
  8. Yes same as resetting adaptations. Have you given us your fuel trim values yet at all? Yep when I changed out my vanos solenoid boards back in 2008 I had no idea about the trick......Having said that I don't think many people even understood that vanos solenoids were an issue and ended up replacing complete vanon units.
  9. 128 L/H before the limiter is not too bad. You really need to reset all fuel trims and go for it, or allow a few hundred miles. You should slam into the limiter, but fair enough if you don't want to, but it has to hit the limiter. Also as others have mentioned better to get a passenger to read the highest actual number, as the driver sometimes does not see the peak value.....ask me how I know. There is also some document out there that shows some compensation for these peak L/H per numbers, which compensate for altitude, ambient temps etc etc I believe. So a reading of 130 L/H may equate to 140 once compensated by the above document. The trick with removing Vanos Solenoid is to unscrew the hex bolts a few revs, then crank the engine over in neutral (do not let it start, just roll the starter for a couple of milliseconds) and hey presto the Vanos Solenoids have been released from their tight seal, and when you remove all hex securing bolts, the board should now be free.
  10. Refurbishing the Vanos Solenoids is very straight forward. No need to remove the VANOS units themselves. However doing these at some point is wise. So are the timing guides, tensioner and chain. So are the rod bearings. I have never heard of VANOS unit self destructing at all so for me there is no urgency with this. But I have heard of catastrophic damage due to timing guides giving up and also rod bearings being spun.... If it was my car I would swap Bank 1 Vanos Solenoid with Bank 2 and see if the codes follow to the next bank. If they do you can follow some online guides to inspect all the solder joints, remove any debris from the failed gauze filters etc and make sure all oil squirters are unblocked. Then re fit and things should feel a lot better. What's the mileage on the car ? For CPS sensors, the exhaust ones are easier from the top. I did the exhaust CPSs myself and I am no mechanic. A mini ratchet set is handy as the bolts are quite long from memory and with the limited space you don't want to keep realigning an allen key or similar tool about a 100 times for the required revs.... The intakes are easier from underneath, having said that I got Phil to do them for me, and he did the Intakes from the top, but he is a bit of whizz with these cars.
  11. I have been off the boil with E39 M5s since about 2012 or so, but from memory those Decimal codes, which translate to Hexadecimal codes of 8 = 08 and 113 = 71, are Intake Camshaft Position Sensor Cyl #5-8 AND Intake Camshaft VANOS position control Cyl #5-8 which suggest to me its more likely a Vanos Solenoid issue rather than a CPS issue. I think the clue, deep in my memory somewhere, is suggesting if you don't have a code that stated there is a Crankshaft/Camshaft position correlation Cyl #1-4 or #5-8 error, then CPS are ok and look into Vanos Solenoids. Above diagnosis from memory. Having said that if the car is a keeper changing all 4 CPS is a good idea, especially if originals. Vanos solenoids usually need a overhaul, if never touched previously, and are quite easily done. Solder joints crack and sometimes debris gets stuck in the solenoid oil squirt holes too. Lots of info on all of the above on the famous M5 specialist forum. E Box Fan - Easy replacement part, or have a look at it and service it. Some people ignore this code. I wouldn't. Secondary Air Valve Stuck 171 = AB is not as common as Secondary Air system, flow too low code 170 = AA. I wouldn't worry too much about this for now.
  12. Exhaust CPS are easy....intakes are a bit of a fiddle ! Well worth changing these critical engine sensors. Also they saw an update during their life and the originals are definitely the older design. What were your INPA fault codes please ?
  13. +1 ! Stock bolts are more than up for the job
  14. Nice car ! Welcome !
  15. Yep looking forward to photos for sure ! I believe the fuel return is by the fuel pressure regulator. Any excess fuel is returned at this point back to the tank, rather than making it any closer to the fuel injector rail. See #5 on here : http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DE92-EUR-09-1999-E39-BMW-M5&diagId=16_0436 See the base of the fuel pressure regulator housing #3 on here. Its where #5 from above diagram connects to : http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DE92-EUR-09-1999-E39-BMW-M5&diagId=13_0819
  16. What is your question exactly please ? Vacuum source for fuel pressure regulation is from the bank 2 row of throttle bodies.
  17. Great post ! Looking forward to your thread !
  18. These are the reasons why you feel that your ECU is faulty ?? I highly doubt its your ECU that's faulty. Engine oil level / temp sensor is at the bottom of your oil pan. Water temp sensor is on your Thermostat. Its a dual sensor, one signal for the instrument cluster temp gauge and one signal to the ECU for the fuelling data set. But it also used to give an oil temp indication to the instrument cluster gauge, if the engine oil level sensor is faulty. If I remember correctly. When this sensor connector is dirty or loose you see strange water temp and oil temp readings (if the oil level sensor is faulty at the same time). Remove the connector and check out the connection quality. Also its very easy and cheap to replace this important sensor. The engine oil level sensor is also known for failing at some point, and will eternally suggest you have low engine oil when you switch off the engine. What fault codes is your car showing ?
  19. Excellent work Vern ! An E39 M5 receiving some well deserved love !
  20. Doesn't need to be running really. No harm if running though. Get a screenshot of yours and we can see where you are at. I reckon yours should be showing pretty much all ok. Really looking to see if the DME is adding extra fuel, or fuelling less and also if its similar on both banks. If there is significant fuel trimming occurring then even if you have brand new mafs and pre cat o2 sensors you won't be getting max fuelling (LPH) at WOT. Good to have engine running in any case especially when you do the adaptation reset and you will feel the car stumble for 2/3 seconds and then back to normal.
  21. Should be looking at this page on INPA : Resetting Adaptations are quite straightforward. I used to be able to do it with my eyes closed but haven't used inpa since 2013 so can't walk you through it anymore. Just have a little look around. I believe from the main menu it was F7 or F8 and says Adaptations if I remember correctly.
  22. If you have the ability to read and reset your fuel trim adaptations, please do so as these numbers (fuel trims) can help investigate any possible issues, or do it after fitting the pre cat o2 sensors and check for leaks around the bungs that hold these. Several factors can influence that reading. (Post maf intake air leaks, post combustion leaks (like around pre cat o2 sensor bungs), pre cat o2 sensors themselves etc etc) But as Jamie rightly says, most likely nothing to worry about.
  23. Fair point, but surely you would prefer your own asset to be appreciating strongly (whether or not other houses are too). Gives you an option to exit the market and place your new wealth in a cheaper market....
  24. If I were to buy another E39 M5, I'd go in assuming about £10K work (maybe less) and therefore not find a pristine example, but rather a straight car with no accident damage and something that has had some love during most of its life : The minimum work you should be considering to get the car to a very good standard and lifetime keeper : Sort out any rust. (Don't pay silly money to sort this out) Rod Bearings Timing Chain and guides Rocker Cover Gaskets Fuel Pump and relay. All engine sensors All engine vacuum lines Resolder and service both Vanos Solenoids Rebuild Vanos units with ready available seals and springs. Thermostat Water pump Viscous Coupling on fan All Suspension arms, steering arms and bushes (and Propshaft Donut, Propshaft Centre bearing, rear CV joint. rear diff mount bushes and rear sub frame mounts) Obviously you can do all of the above over time, but I would advise the Rod Bearings and Timing Guides as top priority. If they fail your bank account will take a hiding. (pretty much a replacement S62 will be needed) These cars are looking more and more simple to fix / maintain compared to the current range of ///M Cars. Buy one and enjoy it for the rest of your life. Not too many better fast saloon cars ever made or will be made I reckon.
  25. ...and your house would appreciate in value 2.5-3 times as quickly too