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FIVE-OH last won the day on March 15 2015

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  1. It appears you have the e38 7ser/e31 8 ser version of the style 37 wheel. These do bolt straight up to e34 without the need for concentric hub rings. Not sure on the specified et but i believe it to be et13. This could be your problem.
  2. Quite interesting views on this subject. IMO it's quite simple. I will not allow myself to be bullied. If your behind me and i'm doing a reasonable speed for that particular type of road and conditions then tough. If the driver behind wants to pass (at any cost) then be my guest, but at their own risk. People don't seem to have any patience these days and try to force you into actions unsuitable for the conditions especially in built up areas. As long as your moving with the general flow/speed limit then sod em. Pass me and go and have your prang down the road i say. Some folk need to learn to wait.
  3. They can be awkward to remove since they are splined at the top under the head. The securing clip has been removed? They really need drifting up from below with punch. Protect the paintwork well as guaranteed to mark it during the process.
  4. Dampers, are the correct term for shock absorbers. The road spring is (technically) the shock absorber. The dampers purpose is to control spring oscillations and the purpose of suspension/springs is not only for ride comfort but to stop the vehicle from shaking itself to pieces. If your fitting lowered springs then by rights its preferable to fit shorter stroke 'dampers' along with new top mounts, bump stops etc. No point fitting short springs on old worn out dampers. It'll ride and handle like a double bed. 30-35mm drop with good quality 'shocks' should give you decent results.
  5. It's a pain but indeed the head needs to come off. The usual cause of broken rockers on the M30 is either a worn camshaft, a serious lack of lubrication or excessive extended high engine RPM. In theory, the rocker has done what it's kinda designed to do and sacrificed itself rather than push a valve through a piston. Ultimately I'd prefer original items with the febi second choice. Even good used original arms are worth considering if available. It'd be exploring all options but it's the perfect excuse for a full top end rebuild. Costly, but worth it imo. I wouldn't drive it too far with a cylinder down though. Remember, it will still be pumping fuel into the port which will fill up with neat fuel and is a moderate fire risk especially if the motor backfires for any reason.
  6. The Kolkkenhom sill panel is a decent bit of kit if your not too corroded, but here's why they come up slightly short. There is simply not enough to effect a full front section repair which is unfortunate. Depending how you wish to proceed in the repair they may still be of some use.
  7. Even more welding. The phenomenon of iron oxide never ceases to amaze. The rear sill repairs are now complete bar cleaning/grinding off and installing the outer skins. I will complete this once all welding is complete, since I'm wanting to spot weld rather than plug weld this area. Externally, I really want that Oem look and a proper spot welder will provide this. The only difficulty for me at the minute is tracking one down. I've made a start on the front jacking points and thankfully it does appear to be a straight forward repair, even though there is some significant corrosion in this area and into the corner of the floor pan also . The double skinned front floor section was also showing signs of rust internally so was removed for cleaning and to provide better access to the sill and actual floor. At some point in the distant past someone attempted to jack the car on the floor pan, slightly deforming it. A definite contribution to the damage. I've already repaired the n/s wing lower section and am fairly happy since I avoided scorching the paint even though the join is fairly high up. The o/s wing also needs a repair so I'm on the look out for a half decent wing that has a good lower section, even if a pattern panel. I never thought it would be quiet as bad as this... but never mind 'we have the technology'. A few more pics.. Previously.... The truth. Ugh.. Utter devastation. Corrosion lurks everywhere. Building up Floor repair section in place, along with bracket to check fit. Waiting for clean/grind off. So. on to the fronts, starting with the..... .....wing repair No scorching Much better. Will line up better once it repaired at lower mounting point. For the near future.. ...Front jacking point/sill. I've figured out how the front sill assembly is constructed which is quite difficult if you've only got a pile of brown dust to compare to. It's gonna be a fully fabricated repair here in any case.
  8. Thanks for your concern, but I'm well ahead of you. I use a nice piece of alloy marker board that I use to shield the lines from any stray sparks etc and reduces risk. It's just visible in one of the photos. Thankfully the majority of the floor reconstruction is now complete, though again, not only do the fuel lines cause an issue but ALL of the n/s wiring looms and the rear fuse box need to be moved also.
  9. More welding... A rather productive week, though still a way to go. The n/s/r is easily the most difficult of the four corners to repair due to the fuel lines running directly adjacent to the repair area. This side looked great but turned out to be just as bad as the other side if not slightly worse. I can only work on it during the evenings, so I'm doing on average at least two evenings per week though mrs five-oh is not particularly impressed. Here's a few taster shots.
  10. ^^The man who haunted himself. A great film. Its easy to forget that outside of the saint/bond portions of his career, he was in a few decent films. I quite rated him. RIP
  11. A dry solder joint within the ecu is not that uncommon. If your handy with a soldering iron, it may be worth a look.
  12. There are three types of top mount iirc for the e34. You can use whatever top mount the shock/damper can accept since your changing them anyway. I've had problems when renewing dampers previously, due to the fact my car was built just on the cusp of the works summer shutdown (7/90). When the works restarted they moved to the later type I believe you need 31331134096 which are similar in style to the e32 items. However, i would try what you have in your strut bodies as its said the diameter of the strut body changed slightly for later vehicles. If originality is required then pre 7/90 and the correct dampers are in order.
  13. This should only apply when HID/zenon type headlights are fitted. The requirement be able to clean lenses is supposedly to reduce chances of dazzle for oncoming drivers.
  14. As the yanks say "theres no substitute for cubic inches" In the past I'd heard it said that the e90/92 were 'lethargic' unless approaching or in blue light territory and from my own experience this appears to be the case. I found s65 has a very peaky torque curve and demands high rpm to display it's credentials whereas the s62 in the m5 is much more linear. But with approaching approximately 200kg difference in the 3's favour you'd expect the 3ser to at least match the older 5ser. Perhaps the m3 was slightly under par? BMW's have never been all that getting off the line imo.
  15. I'd go for the pattern replacement personally. If decent quality, i can't see there being a problem. £172 is a joke imo and all A/C equipped cars use the same drier unit regardless of engine type. In regard to the actual compressor, they are quite hard to come by. Did you acquire new, used or refurbed? It's surprising since all m30/s38 powered vehicles (e34/32) share the same item.