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FIVE-OH last won the day on March 15 2015

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  1. The Kolkkenhom sill panel is a decent bit of kit if your not too corroded, but here's why they come up slightly short. There is simply not enough to effect a full front section repair which is unfortunate. Depending how you wish to proceed in the repair they may still be of some use.
  2. Even more welding. The phenomenon of iron oxide never ceases to amaze. The rear sill repairs are now complete bar cleaning/grinding off and installing the outer skins. I will complete this once all welding is complete, since I'm wanting to spot weld rather than plug weld this area. Externally, I really want that Oem look and a proper spot welder will provide this. The only difficulty for me at the minute is tracking one down. I've made a start on the front jacking points and thankfully it does appear to be a straight forward repair, even though there is some significant corrosion in this area and into the corner of the floor pan also . The double skinned front floor section was also showing signs of rust internally so was removed for cleaning and to provide better access to the sill and actual floor. At some point in the distant past someone attempted to jack the car on the floor pan, slightly deforming it. A definite contribution to the damage. I've already repaired the n/s wing lower section and am fairly happy since I avoided scorching the paint even though the join is fairly high up. The o/s wing also needs a repair so I'm on the look out for a half decent wing that has a good lower section, even if a pattern panel. I never thought it would be quiet as bad as this... but never mind 'we have the technology'. A few more pics.. Previously.... The truth. Ugh.. Utter devastation. Corrosion lurks everywhere. Building up Floor repair section in place, along with bracket to check fit. Waiting for clean/grind off. So. on to the fronts, starting with the..... .....wing repair No scorching Much better. Will line up better once it repaired at lower mounting point. For the near future.. ...Front jacking point/sill. I've figured out how the front sill assembly is constructed which is quite difficult if you've only got a pile of brown dust to compare to. It's gonna be a fully fabricated repair here in any case.
  3. Thanks for your concern, but I'm well ahead of you. I use a nice piece of alloy marker board that I use to shield the lines from any stray sparks etc and reduces risk. It's just visible in one of the photos. Thankfully the majority of the floor reconstruction is now complete, though again, not only do the fuel lines cause an issue but ALL of the n/s wiring looms and the rear fuse box need to be moved also.
  4. More welding... A rather productive week, though still a way to go. The n/s/r is easily the most difficult of the four corners to repair due to the fuel lines running directly adjacent to the repair area. This side looked great but turned out to be just as bad as the other side if not slightly worse. I can only work on it during the evenings, so I'm doing on average at least two evenings per week though mrs five-oh is not particularly impressed. Here's a few taster shots.
  5. ^^The man who haunted himself. A great film. Its easy to forget that outside of the saint/bond portions of his career, he was in a few decent films. I quite rated him. RIP
  6. A dry solder joint within the ecu is not that uncommon. If your handy with a soldering iron, it may be worth a look.
  7. There are three types of top mount iirc for the e34. You can use whatever top mount the shock/damper can accept since your changing them anyway. I've had problems when renewing dampers previously, due to the fact my car was built just on the cusp of the works summer shutdown (7/90). When the works restarted they moved to the later type I believe you need 31331134096 which are similar in style to the e32 items. However, i would try what you have in your strut bodies as its said the diameter of the strut body changed slightly for later vehicles. If originality is required then pre 7/90 and the correct dampers are in order.
  8. This should only apply when HID/zenon type headlights are fitted. The requirement be able to clean lenses is supposedly to reduce chances of dazzle for oncoming drivers.
  9. As the yanks say "theres no substitute for cubic inches" In the past I'd heard it said that the e90/92 were 'lethargic' unless approaching or in blue light territory and from my own experience this appears to be the case. I found s65 has a very peaky torque curve and demands high rpm to display it's credentials whereas the s62 in the m5 is much more linear. But with approaching approximately 200kg difference in the 3's favour you'd expect the 3ser to at least match the older 5ser. Perhaps the m3 was slightly under par? BMW's have never been all that getting off the line imo.
  10. I'd go for the pattern replacement personally. If decent quality, i can't see there being a problem. £172 is a joke imo and all A/C equipped cars use the same drier unit regardless of engine type. In regard to the actual compressor, they are quite hard to come by. Did you acquire new, used or refurbed? It's surprising since all m30/s38 powered vehicles (e34/32) share the same item.
  11. Unnecessary fiddling imo. Pull the bottom hose and be done with it. I wouldn't mess with the drain plug too much either. Leave it alone if undamaged or it could catch you out down the road.
  12. ^^ I'd agree in regards to the diameter of the wheel, although it is of course personal preference. The e34 does not really like anything much more than 17" wheels. Even though late 3.8 m5 carried 18" wheels they also had slight differences in regards to bushes and geometry settings. IMO, There are only three types of wheel i would get involved with for e34 in 18" form. The 18" alpina classics, 18" style 5 or the original fitment 18" M system wheels. I would also ensure the suspension is it good condition before proceeding in any case.
  13. Not used them as yet, but supposed to be good. Worth a call at least.
  14. The doors are all the same shape etc physically, so will fit. However there are slight differences with the the way the latches fit between early and late doors with the associated difference in the door looms. It can be done if your so inclined by swapping everything across between new and old and i have done so in the past, but it is slightly quicker and easier to get a door thats a direct swap and colour match if you want to avoid painting.
  15. Hmmm... on the face of it it doesn't look too bad. But... The e34 series tend to rust from the inside out and whilst it looks like it will respond well to cleaning up, I'm willing to wager that corrosion is munching away inside the box section of the sill. Get under the car (suitably supported) and have a good look at the area behind the 'beer cans' of the rear suspension. This is the back of the inner sill and any rot here means rectification. Don't be shy. Prod it with a suitable tool to find any weak spot. Having said that the repairs if needed should hopefully be fairly localised. The front right is finished. I can even just make out the sound insulation lulling about inside the cavity. This is the area below where the front speakers are situated. From the angle of the shot it does appear that the inner sill is corroded also but not sure how far up. If you pull back the carpet all should be revealed.