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FIVE-OH

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FIVE-OH last won the day on March 15 2015

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  1. Transmission question

    Check also your rubber engine and gearbox mounts for perishing, contamination and/or seperation.
  2. Aftermarket door handle seals / trims

    I believe the oem items only come with the outer handle surround complete. Early cars have a metal surround whilst later models have plastic items with a corresponding difference in price. For the price of the aftermarket gaskets I'd give them a go. They are straight forward if a little tricky to fit.
  3. Electric fan conversion......

    Personally i'd stick with the OEM viscous set up especially for the street. In fact i would avoid purchasing a vehicle converted with an electric fan set up unless it was something a little difficult to obtain and even then i would be looking to convert it back to standard. Viscous couplings simply just work. They are designed to only lock up once they sense higher temperatures and this is usually when the vehicle is in traffic or stationary, the precise time that the motor is at its least efficient and unlikely to be required to give maximum power. For a track day special or racer when every ounce of power is required then perhaps, but for normal duty it is unnecessary and smacks of fiddling imo. Some folk delete the viscous coupling and don't bother with any electric installation, relying on the a/c pusher fan. This is even more foolhardy imo and i definitely would not rely on this fan to cool the engine effectively and still provide cooling for the A/C system. Might get away with it in the depths of winter but on a steaming hot summers day you'd be asking for trouble.
  4. BMW E34 M5 S38B36 Restoration

    ^^ Nope, the bolt is in correctly. You'll need to raise the seat squab to a higher position to enable access to the bolt head which is a torx style fixing. Good luck with the welding...
  5. 18" M Parallels (style 37) for E34

    It appears you have the e38 7ser/e31 8 ser version of the style 37 wheel. These do bolt straight up to e34 without the need for concentric hub rings. Not sure on the specified et but i believe it to be et13. This could be your problem.
  6. Being Tailgated

    Quite interesting views on this subject. IMO it's quite simple. I will not allow myself to be bullied. If your behind me and i'm doing a reasonable speed for that particular type of road and conditions then tough. If the driver behind wants to pass (at any cost) then be my guest, but at their own risk. People don't seem to have any patience these days and try to force you into actions unsuitable for the conditions especially in built up areas. As long as your moving with the general flow/speed limit then sod em. Pass me and go and have your prang down the road i say. Some folk need to learn to wait.
  7. Door pins.

    They can be awkward to remove since they are splined at the top under the head. The securing clip has been removed? They really need drifting up from below with punch. Protect the paintwork well as guaranteed to mark it during the process.
  8. Time to lower the suspension

    Dampers, are the correct term for shock absorbers. The road spring is (technically) the shock absorber. The dampers purpose is to control spring oscillations and the purpose of suspension/springs is not only for ride comfort but to stop the vehicle from shaking itself to pieces. If your fitting lowered springs then by rights its preferable to fit shorter stroke 'dampers' along with new top mounts, bump stops etc. No point fitting short springs on old worn out dampers. It'll ride and handle like a double bed. 30-35mm drop with good quality 'shocks' should give you decent results.
  9. Rocker arms..

    It's a pain but indeed the head needs to come off. The usual cause of broken rockers on the M30 is either a worn camshaft, a serious lack of lubrication or excessive extended high engine RPM. In theory, the rocker has done what it's kinda designed to do and sacrificed itself rather than push a valve through a piston. Ultimately I'd prefer original items with the febi second choice. Even good used original arms are worth considering if available. It'd be exploring all options but it's the perfect excuse for a full top end rebuild. Costly, but worth it imo. I wouldn't drive it too far with a cylinder down though. Remember, it will still be pumping fuel into the port which will fill up with neat fuel and is a moderate fire risk especially if the motor backfires for any reason.
  10. Replacement Sill Panels

    The Kolkkenhom sill panel is a decent bit of kit if your not too corroded, but here's why they come up slightly short. There is simply not enough to effect a full front section repair which is unfortunate. Depending how you wish to proceed in the repair they may still be of some use.
  11. What have you done on your E34 Today

    Even more welding. The phenomenon of iron oxide never ceases to amaze. The rear sill repairs are now complete bar cleaning/grinding off and installing the outer skins. I will complete this once all welding is complete, since I'm wanting to spot weld rather than plug weld this area. Externally, I really want that Oem look and a proper spot welder will provide this. The only difficulty for me at the minute is tracking one down. I've made a start on the front jacking points and thankfully it does appear to be a straight forward repair, even though there is some significant corrosion in this area and into the corner of the floor pan also . The double skinned front floor section was also showing signs of rust internally so was removed for cleaning and to provide better access to the sill and actual floor. At some point in the distant past someone attempted to jack the car on the floor pan, slightly deforming it. A definite contribution to the damage. I've already repaired the n/s wing lower section and am fairly happy since I avoided scorching the paint even though the join is fairly high up. The o/s wing also needs a repair so I'm on the look out for a half decent wing that has a good lower section, even if a pattern panel. I never thought it would be quiet as bad as this... but never mind 'we have the technology'. A few more pics.. Previously.... The truth. Ugh.. Utter devastation. Corrosion lurks everywhere. Building up Floor repair section in place, along with bracket to check fit. Waiting for clean/grind off. So. on to the fronts, starting with the..... .....wing repair No scorching Much better. Will line up better once it repaired at lower mounting point. For the near future.. ...Front jacking point/sill. I've figured out how the front sill assembly is constructed which is quite difficult if you've only got a pile of brown dust to compare to. It's gonna be a fully fabricated repair here in any case.
  12. What have you done on your E34 Today

    Thanks for your concern, but I'm well ahead of you. I use a nice piece of alloy marker board that I use to shield the lines from any stray sparks etc and reduces risk. It's just visible in one of the photos. Thankfully the majority of the floor reconstruction is now complete, though again, not only do the fuel lines cause an issue but ALL of the n/s wiring looms and the rear fuse box need to be moved also.
  13. What have you done on your E34 Today

    More welding... A rather productive week, though still a way to go. The n/s/r is easily the most difficult of the four corners to repair due to the fuel lines running directly adjacent to the repair area. This side looked great but turned out to be just as bad as the other side if not slightly worse. I can only work on it during the evenings, so I'm doing on average at least two evenings per week though mrs five-oh is not particularly impressed. Here's a few taster shots.
  14. Sir Roger Moore has died

    ^^The man who haunted himself. A great film. Its easy to forget that outside of the saint/bond portions of his career, he was in a few decent films. I quite rated him. RIP
  15. Intermittent Starting Woes

    A dry solder joint within the ecu is not that uncommon. If your handy with a soldering iron, it may be worth a look.
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