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FIVE-OH

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FIVE-OH last won the day on March 15 2015

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  1. FIVE-OH

    What have you done on your E34 Today

    Indeed. Two jobs well we worth completing and in the case of the fuel lines, possibly critical now due to the age of the cars. I used the dinitrol range of products namely 447 which is a rubberized compound and over paintable. Happy with the coverage but it does seem to fade slightly once fully dry after a few weeks. There are plenty other products on the market but the dinitrol seems to be readily available and decent value. In regards to the fuel & brake lines, these are available from the main dealer. The fuel lines come pre shaped but the brake lines do not. I'd advise soaking the retaining clip screws with a good releasing agent regularly before attempting to remove the small securing screws. Absolutely nothing stopping you from making up your own fuel lines if inclined and you can get some piping suitable for the job in hand. You only need to renew the flow & return lines. You can discard the vapour line completely as not used on earlier models but you'll have to blank off at the vapour canister under the o/s/r wing.
  2. FIVE-OH

    1989 E34 Headlight issue

    Can't say on part No's, but the lkm module stays in the under bonnet main fusebox. It's the larger one of the two modules. Pull it out, open it carefully and inspect the large relays on the board. http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Maintenance/Electrical/LKM.htm
  3. FIVE-OH

    E34 Front Strut / Suspension Shopping List

    I ran the spax PSX kit for some years, though in fact I'm about to replace them with the ubiquitous bilstein set up. I didn't think they were too bad being half the price even then of the bilsteins. Bear in mind that if purchasing new, the spax are made to order with a six week lead time in my case. They require no welding, being standard conventional coil over McPherson strut suspension. A straight forward exchange for what's already fitted. In regard to the front struts, there are differences between early and later vehicles. Your car appears to be a fairly early example so should have the 97mm hub. When the works went over to the 83mm hubs, the mounting hole for the ABS sensor also moved to accommodate the reduced diameter. I have also heard that the stut body diameter also changed, but I cannot yet confirm this. There is nothing stopping you from using either type of strut although it becomes more involved overall if you do swap.. I'd advise sticking to what you have. Most 535i's always had top mounts similar to e32 items and 31331134096 are what you need iirc. These may have also been fitted to 'sport' equipped M50 vehicles also, hence the Mtech label.
  4. FIVE-OH

    1989 E34 Headlight issue

    Historically, the usual suspect is the LKM module which can suffer internally from dry solder joints. Reflowing any cracked joint should cure the problem. Easy diy, plenty links on the inter web.
  5. The e34 first appeared in the uk powered with an exclusively 6cyl engine range and was shortly joined by the 4cyl 518 released later. The e34 530i was dropped when the 24v m50 motors appeared which made it irrelevant and the truth was it was always regarded as the runt of the litter. When the two v8 M60's were released, the much loved 3.5ltr m30 was also discontinued although in real terms it could still hold it's own against the 530 v8 especially in manual form. The v8 motors had previously debuted in the e32 7ser but the six cylinder 730 was always available (i believe possibly special order only) alongside the v8 730 until the very end of e32 production. Personally, I reckon the e32/34 era 3.0 M30 did far better fitted to the 7ser than it did in the e34. With a big luxury car, my own preference would be the larger or largest power unit available though ultimately not every buyer required this.
  6. FIVE-OH

    What have you done on your E34 Today

    A major step forwards on this one. Not much happens during the winter months cos I just can't be dealing with the cold if I can help it. So early spring saw a resumption in activities. After some minor filling/tidying I decided to finally apply the external body Shultz to the sills Then a thorough dousing with cavity wax inside all four jacking points and associated areas. In the meantime the interior trim and carpeting was refitted....... .........as well as yet another replacement dash top. I also fitted a decent Mtech 1 wheel in place of the alpina, as I want to have that refurbished. Once all that was done and with a few other tasks also completed, it was time for an MOT...... which it promptly failed on an fuel leak. After some fiddling around I sourced the leak to the forward tank return pipe which was inevitably found to be seriously corroded. I had replaced the rear one some years ago. I decided to swerve the main dealer on this occasion and luckily I found a decent length of rigid mild steel 'coated' piping, that was knocking around the workshop and was more than suitable for the job. I made up replacements for both front and rear returns. These were bent to the required shape and fitted. A few hours work one evening (which was pretty much the case throughout the whole job) Once this was done, I had it retested and obtained it's first ticket in 3yrs. So now with 95% of the welding all done, I'm now turning my attention to the suspension which is really on its last. Starting at the rear, i'm preparing a completely refurbished rear end that I will build up over the next couple of months. All bushes, clips, brackets and bolts etc to be renewed along with backplates and as a matter of course wheel bearings. In total, just for the sill/jacking point repairs including panels, body cuts, trim, sealants and materials, I'd estimate a cost of at least £600. But the biggest penalty i found is time. It's a good thing you can't really charge yourself....... With autumn/winter fast approaching I've starting detailing the car. With having been parked beside a railway, under a sappy tree and with all that grinding and general filth on the car this is taking some doing. Still a fair way from its 'peak condition' in my hand and I still have a few small areas of minor welding to do but the difficult work is done.
  7. FIVE-OH

    Piston scratches and nicks

    They are a bit marked up.. Forget the dremmel. Your more likely to take off too much material. Pistons should all be within 'x' amount grams difference of each other, especially if blueprinting the motor. I would be getting some very very fine paper and gently removing the high spots of any gouges. Don't try to eradicate the marks completely as you'll possibly introduce flat spots to the skirt promoting blow by. The mark on the crown will eventually be covered by carbon so would not worry too much on that one, just tidy it up. If 're-ringing' the pistons, care should be taken in regards to ring gaps which must be spot on... I'd suggest approaching a good engine machine shop/builder for their opinion if at all possible.
  8. FIVE-OH

    e34 Dashboard removal

    Here's where it gets more involved.... The pipes coming through on the passenger side, indeed need to be disconnected as do the rigid aluminium pipes on the drivers side if the vehicle has A/C specified. Then from the engine side of the scuttle panel, remove the heater motor access panel and the blower motor, then remove the (5 iirc) bolts securing the HVAC box to the bulkhead. The access panel can be difficult to remove depending on the type of motor fitted. The lower bolts can occasionally be seized, particularly the central one and the actual opening itself can also suffer from corrosion around the edges. To confirm. The only way the remove the carpet without cutting it, is to remove the heater box complete.
  9. FIVE-OH

    e34 Dashboard removal

    To remove dash top there are torx screws either side under the A post trims and two 13mm bolts under the dash also either side. There are three screws under the centre dash vent. You can unplug the dash loom under the passenger side foot well.
  10. FIVE-OH

    Help with "Alpina" B10 cam install requested

    Double check for air leak. Anywhere downstream from AFM inc injectors and valve cover etc. Look down between No 3 and 4 intake runners and immediately under the port for the ICV is another port that should (in an e34) be bunged off. Been caught out twice before with this particular port though I will admit the symptoms were not near as bad as your own. What tends to happen is the bung perishes and if the engine backfires for any reason it will blow the remains of the bung out causing a massive air leak. Cam/valve timing sounds right so can't see issue there. You would reverse your HT leads to prove 180 degree out theory. Failing that a thorough back to basics check should be made and I personally would loose the 'alpina' chip until happy the issue is sorted.
  11. FIVE-OH

    E39 propshaft

    Look again at the front coupling first as a priority. The rear joint is actually a CV joint which could be either dry or heavily worn. I have also seen (Spicer type) prop U/J's fail and if this is the case the prop is usually scrap as they are staked into position. The prop needs to be split to renew the centre bearing but ensure you mark the two sections of shaft in relation to each other. I'd use a centre punch or such like to do this rather than a blob of paint which can be rubbed off easily by mistake during the task.
  12. FIVE-OH

    How to pick a good boiler

    I went for a vaillant combi 2yrs ago. And very pleased with it i am as well. I'd over spec'd it on size so to avoid it always running at full bore. Instead of 28/30kw i fitted a 36kw. Typical 1930's property running 7 rads, its more than capable and very quiet with ample capacity should the need arise to increase. The only thing i would do differently would be a filtered/softened water supply since the water here (Nth london/herts) is as hard as nails. I have been told the Worcester bosch product has fallen down severely on quality with plenty of internal components made of plastic. The baxi, which i also considered, was until a few years ago, primarily equipped with brass fittings but possibly now similar to the WB internally.
  13. FIVE-OH

    Under seat battery size

    An 019 battery (354 x 175 x 190) will definitely fit, though can be a little awkward to get into place. There appears to be two different types of clamp specified/available, both simple affairs. I always recommend as large a battery that can be physically fitted.
  14. FIVE-OH

    Rust curing on e28s

    Go for the dinitrol products. Readily available and reasonable value. In comparison, Upol gravitex appears to be a hard type of coating, 3m stuff whilst superb is pricey and not that easy to obtain imo. Bilt hamber also very good but range and packaging not as good, which left the dinitrol. I can fully appreciate the OP's dilemma about the choice of products available from dinitrol but in the end I went for.... 3125/ML: cavity wax. 4941: underbody chassis coating. Solvent based 447: Anti stone chip protection (overpaintable) rubber based. Unfortunately, although these products are available in aerosol form, it is by far better to use an proper Schultz gun with lance extension, not only to give good penetration inside the cavity but also to get the correct texture when applied externally. It's virtually indistinguishable from the OEM factory application. You'll need at least 4bar (aprox 60psi) minimum air pressure up to 6bar max. I used the 4941 for general coverage after a thorough clean, but used the 447 for areas that possibly may be painted. Both go on nicely but the 4941 takes ages to dry. Old engine oil is great for protecting pressed sheet steel, though I would be cautious these days. It will find its way out eventually and it poses a safety risk to other road users, especially when it rains.
  15. FIVE-OH

    540i - Starter Motor Failed?

    A good decent healthy fully charged battery should show 12.6v across the terminals. 12.2 is half capacity and anything 12 and below is discharged. Only check after the battery has been sitting a bit, say overnight but not directly after a run as the residual charge could confuse things. If discharged then fully charge the battery on low amps over 12-24 hrs. The voltage should be around 13v immediately after the charge, rapidly falling back to 12.6v (2.1v per cell) and should stay there. When cranking over the engine its a good idea to check the draw on the battery. If your seeing it drop to 7-8 volts or lower its finished. A drop tester if available will confirm for sure. If it also can't hold 12.6v, again its finished. With the engine running you should see at least 13.8 to 14v running under load and perhaps 14.4 running light. It is always best to check alternator output at the alternator itself using the B+ terminal, though this is not always possible due to any generators location in different applications. Bear in mind you will get a slight voltage drop due to the long cable run to battery at the rear of the car, perhaps 0.5v. I would fit the largest size battery that will physically fit. The battery can also act as a reserve if the generator is at maximum output and on a cold winter morning you'll be glad for the extra cranking power it will provide, especially with a diesel motors on short runs. Finally. Try to purchase from a vendor with a high turnover of product. Batteries can sometimes sit for a surprisingly long time between manufacturing and being sold, slowly sulphating up which reduces capacity and/or life expectancy.
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