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FIVE-OH last won the day on March 15 2015

FIVE-OH had the most liked content!

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  1. Windscreen Replacement

    Yes its a bit of a piss take but in my view 'At least you can get it in the first place'. The e34 has been out of prodution for over 20yrs and all the stock left over from production or since remanufactured needs to be stored, documented, packaged and transported. Remanufactured stuff also cost much more to make today than it did two decades ago. I think BMW's parts supply is outstanding for older vehicles and i believe they wil often run off a new batch if demand requires it. Try that with most other manufacturers particularly the italians and you'll find little or no support even for vehicles not aeons out of production. It does sting sometimes, but do you really expect them to give it away?
  2. For a four cylinder motor, 2.5 is big. The 3.0ltr huge and practically unheard of for a production power unit in the 'modern' era. At least it was a proper Porsche unit.. Well engineered coupes but perhaps a little underated? Lovely lovely time warp car.
  3. How dead is this engine?

    That's a pretty nasty crack straight through from the chamber to the water jacket, very unfortunate. As you suggest, the head is scrap, but the bottom end could be salvaged if so inclined. IMO you'd have to have that piston right out of it and clean up the bore with some fine paper then a light hone. Forget re-boring cos then you'd definitely be into expensive pistons which for this application is overkill. The truth is though, a good used motor is the better option going forwards.
  4. Adjustable rear ends. Worth it for the street?

    According to various sources, the e34 m5's of any description were fitted with a rear beam, factory equipped slotted with adjustable eccentric bolts to allow adjustment for the toe only. This beam is unique to the e34 m5. They were also fitted with a supposedly heavier duty trailing arm fitted with a spherical bush/bearing, to correspond with the slotted rear beam. These 'special' trailing arms were also fitted to the e32 740 & 750 but not in conjunction with a slotted beam. These trailing arms are the only ones i believe that will guarantee the fitment of 10j wheels without any modification. Weld on kits are readily available to modify most bmw semi trailing rear suspension for toe and/or camber (using e39 eccentric bolts/hardware) which would be the route i'd take in this situation. It's even possible to diy your own brackets. But is it really worth, it especially with standard trailing arm bushes, for the road?
  5. I'm just gearing up for a rear end refresh on the suspension and I'm seriously considering slotting the beam for trailing arm adjustability. Is this worth it for the street? My primary reason for doing this is to improve rear tyre wear. Admittedly, tyre wear is always worse on a LSD equipped vehicle, but I've found it quiet annoying over the years that the tyres can wear quite badly on the inside but the outside is virtually untouched. . I don't run the car particularly low but i do tend to run directional tyres, so no chance of turning the tyre on the rim to even out the wear. It is also said that adjustable rear ends really only work correctly if spherical type bearings/bushes are also fitted. These bearings are quite dear by all accounts. Only the m5 models have any adjustability and only then for the toe, not the camber. Having said that, i envisage a maximum of perhaps 2.5-3k miles annually going forward so it's a bit of a moot point anyways. In short are adjustable rear ends worth the aggro for the road. Opinions?
  6. BMW E34 M5 S38B36 Restoration

    Pretty much the route I went down recently. Unfortunately when the throttle pedal came off in my hand I knew it would be a bit more involved... I fully removed the dummy floors on both sides for better access. I trust you've been taking measurements as needed. Very important for the lower section of wing to line up correctly. Out of interest, how are you going to do the jacking point strengthener and your drainage. Also what are you planning to seal/underseal it with?
  7. There's a good chance it could be the DSC pressure sensor(s) up on the master cylinder. Its a fairly well know issue on M3 models and indeed i have suffered from this fault in the past intermittently, particularly when the disc pads were low. Diagnostics would also indicate a faulty yaw sensor but that dtc disappeared when the faulty dsc sensor was behaving. Don't know what model e46 you have but i have heard of this fault affecting standard e46 also. The M3's carry two sensors (f+r) and they are not cheap. However in my case a new set of pads appeared to cure the issue for me, i believe due the change in fluid volume within the system. Ultimately some kind of diagnostic work will point you in the right direction but i doubt its the pad wear sensor. Perhaps the abs sensor does have a dirty contact or is faulty as mentioned. Live data will confirm for sure.
  8. Transmission question

    Check also your rubber engine and gearbox mounts for perishing, contamination and/or seperation.
  9. Aftermarket door handle seals / trims

    I believe the oem items only come with the outer handle surround complete. Early cars have a metal surround whilst later models have plastic items with a corresponding difference in price. For the price of the aftermarket gaskets I'd give them a go. They are straight forward if a little tricky to fit.
  10. Electric fan conversion......

    Personally i'd stick with the OEM viscous set up especially for the street. In fact i would avoid purchasing a vehicle converted with an electric fan set up unless it was something a little difficult to obtain and even then i would be looking to convert it back to standard. Viscous couplings simply just work. They are designed to only lock up once they sense higher temperatures and this is usually when the vehicle is in traffic or stationary, the precise time that the motor is at its least efficient and unlikely to be required to give maximum power. For a track day special or racer when every ounce of power is required then perhaps, but for normal duty it is unnecessary and smacks of fiddling imo. Some folk delete the viscous coupling and don't bother with any electric installation, relying on the a/c pusher fan. This is even more foolhardy imo and i definitely would not rely on this fan to cool the engine effectively and still provide cooling for the A/C system. Might get away with it in the depths of winter but on a steaming hot summers day you'd be asking for trouble.
  11. BMW E34 M5 S38B36 Restoration

    ^^ Nope, the bolt is in correctly. You'll need to raise the seat squab to a higher position to enable access to the bolt head which is a torx style fixing. Good luck with the welding...
  12. 18" M Parallels (style 37) for E34

    It appears you have the e38 7ser/e31 8 ser version of the style 37 wheel. These do bolt straight up to e34 without the need for concentric hub rings. Not sure on the specified et but i believe it to be et13. This could be your problem.
  13. Being Tailgated

    Quite interesting views on this subject. IMO it's quite simple. I will not allow myself to be bullied. If your behind me and i'm doing a reasonable speed for that particular type of road and conditions then tough. If the driver behind wants to pass (at any cost) then be my guest, but at their own risk. People don't seem to have any patience these days and try to force you into actions unsuitable for the conditions especially in built up areas. As long as your moving with the general flow/speed limit then sod em. Pass me and go and have your prang down the road i say. Some folk need to learn to wait.
  14. Door pins.

    They can be awkward to remove since they are splined at the top under the head. The securing clip has been removed? They really need drifting up from below with punch. Protect the paintwork well as guaranteed to mark it during the process.
  15. Time to lower the suspension

    Dampers, are the correct term for shock absorbers. The road spring is (technically) the shock absorber. The dampers purpose is to control spring oscillations and the purpose of suspension/springs is not only for ride comfort but to stop the vehicle from shaking itself to pieces. If your fitting lowered springs then by rights its preferable to fit shorter stroke 'dampers' along with new top mounts, bump stops etc. No point fitting short springs on old worn out dampers. It'll ride and handle like a double bed. 30-35mm drop with good quality 'shocks' should give you decent results.