Gold Members
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


FIVE-OH last won the day on March 15 2015

FIVE-OH had the most liked content!

1 Follower


  • Rank
  • Birthday

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling

Recent Profile Visitors

6,259 profile views
  1. I'd go for the pattern replacement personally. If decent quality, i can't see there being a problem. £172 is a joke imo and all A/C equipped cars use the same drier unit regardless of engine type. In regard to the actual compressor, they are quite hard to come by. Did you acquire new, used or refurbed? It's surprising since all m30/s38 powered vehicles (e34/32) share the same item.
  2. Unnecessary fiddling imo. Pull the bottom hose and be done with it. I wouldn't mess with the drain plug too much either. Leave it alone if undamaged or it could catch you out down the road.
  3. ^^ I'd agree in regards to the diameter of the wheel, although it is of course personal preference. The e34 does not really like anything much more than 17" wheels. Even though late 3.8 m5 carried 18" wheels they also had slight differences in regards to bushes and geometry settings. IMO, There are only three types of wheel i would get involved with for e34 in 18" form. The 18" alpina classics, 18" style 5 or the original fitment 18" M system wheels. I would also ensure the suspension is it good condition before proceeding in any case.
  4. Not used them as yet, but supposed to be good. Worth a call at least.
  5. The doors are all the same shape etc physically, so will fit. However there are slight differences with the the way the latches fit between early and late doors with the associated difference in the door looms. It can be done if your so inclined by swapping everything across between new and old and i have done so in the past, but it is slightly quicker and easier to get a door thats a direct swap and colour match if you want to avoid painting.
  6. Hmmm... on the face of it it doesn't look too bad. But... The e34 series tend to rust from the inside out and whilst it looks like it will respond well to cleaning up, I'm willing to wager that corrosion is munching away inside the box section of the sill. Get under the car (suitably supported) and have a good look at the area behind the 'beer cans' of the rear suspension. This is the back of the inner sill and any rot here means rectification. Don't be shy. Prod it with a suitable tool to find any weak spot. Having said that the repairs if needed should hopefully be fairly localised. The front right is finished. I can even just make out the sound insulation lulling about inside the cavity. This is the area below where the front speakers are situated. From the angle of the shot it does appear that the inner sill is corroded also but not sure how far up. If you pull back the carpet all should be revealed.
  7. Go for the OEM bmw rear sill assembly if at all possible. This is a superb item that comes complete with the jacking point strengthener. Depending on how corroded your car already is, this panel will do all you need unlike the (still good quality) kolkkenhom sill panel. To do this job properly with all rot cut out and a decent repair means time, effort and courage. What the real problem is regards what you can't see namely the inner sill. If the outer sill is as rotten as you say, the inner will also more than likely be at least rusty at best. The inner sill is heavily sculptured and would be seriously difficult to fabricate. You've also got the inner wheel arch to consider and again its shape will be difficult to replicate. Where the rear suspension brackets bolt into the floor beside the battery also rots out meaning more fab work. I know all this because I've been (and still am) doing it. If you were to buy all the panels needed oem it will become expensive, around £500+ for the rears only and i believe one side inner sill is NLA. The frustrating thing is you probably won't need all of the panel. For example, you'll only need perhaps a 8" high section of the inner wheel arch and maybe 10" length of the inner sill. The front jacking points look to be fairly straight forward to repair but I've not yet got that far. There is a strong possibility that the floor pan adjacent to the jacking point going forward will also be rotten. My plan is to use the kolkkenhom outer panel suitably cut to the required length/shape and fabricate the rest as necessary. This is the area behind the lower (sill) section of the front wings, so invisible though again that lower section of wing will more than likely need repairing or replacement. My advice to anyone with this problem is to firstly establish exactly where and how much corrosion there is. Secondly, obtain the required panels now, either new or very good used (difficult i know).Thirdly, if your not doing it yourself, find yourself a good welder/fabricator. I've learnt so much about e34 sills and how to repair them and whilst difficult it's not impossible. E39 owners are discovering sill rot now also, but to my eyes its seems a much easier repair as there only seems to be flat surfaces to deal with though the fuel tank is a problem. If i get the time i will do a proper thread regarding the e34 rear sill issue.
  8. Are you sure it's a lower bolt failure? A lower spring pan on the strut body failing, gives the same outcome. Not heard of the bolt shearing, though it could be possible if the damper is seized.
  9. Have a good poke around ALL four jacking points. e34 era underseal can look acceptable at first glance but in reality it's holding together what's left of the original steel it was laid over. It all depends on how bad it really is in truth. If seriously corroded, the required OE panels will be fairly expensive. There are four separate panels that join to make up the rear sill/arch assembly and the inner sill and lower inner wheel arch are very difficult to fabricate from scratch. For example the inner sill panel comes as 1 piece and runs front to rear, but you'll probably only really need the rear 10" or so. You may well need a repair to the floorpan adj to the battery/heelboard. It's difficult to price this job especially on location but If you want a top quality invisible repair then I'd expect to pay approx. 1-1.3k to inc some minor fab work and the welding, just for the rear sills. If I could offer this service here down south, I'd be looking for near that figure and a min of a solid week to complete. Or if you can find someone to take it on as a fill in job it should work out cheaper but take much longer to finish.
  10. The 23/24/25mm is the diameter of the bar depending on original suspension spec. Sport specification suspension came with the larger bars, i think at the full 25mm, but don't quote me on this. To be sure you can measure the diameter with a vernier scale if available, or flexible tape with some simple calculations. If your lucky you may find the original part number still embossed somewhere on the rubber. Main dealers should be able to supply them and I'd also go for new decent ARB droplinks. All german parts may be able to help also
  11. If it's (vtg) 6 plated, I'd assume approx 4.6-5t gross? If so it is classed as a hgv also requiring ministry testing and of course a tacho. You can only avoid the tacho if the vehicle is not used for gain or reward, or certain other uses. The speed limiter issue is also a greyish area but due to EU regs anything over 3.5t should be limited to 90kph. You shouldn't need to make any changes to the springs or running gear, it all being a paper exercise, but bear in mind if down plating that your usable payload decreases and if caught overweight these days i believe its a 5k fine and if caught multiple times, confiscation of the vehicle. If down rated and using the vehicle as its design intended, it will be fairly easy to go overweight particularly on the front axle. Over zealous enforcement staff will have the potential to make your life a misery if all is not in order. Would not a 3.5t be better suited to your needs? I'd definitely err on the side of caution and recommend some expert advice on this issue.
  12. Unless it's leaking heavily I'd leave it alone. If sweating you got a bit of time before it becomes a real problem. Oil leaks never get better on their own. If manual, i'd wait until the next clutch change and then it's just a matter of dropping off the flywheel and carefully slipping a new seal on. If auto then its a lot more aggro that requires the complete transmission inc the torque converter and driveplate to be removed before tackling the rear seal. In regards to cost its not much more than a standard clutch change but if auto it can become a real nightmare if certain fixings for oil coolers and the like snap or round off which is a distinct possibility on this age of vehicle.
  13. Personally I'd go for good quality painted, but would simply have the whole wheel done. Face and barrel. A non aggressive type of blasting should avoid oxidation issues but may increase cost. For longevity, powdercoat should last better but there's not a lot in it imo. Painted also tends to give a smoother finish, whereas powdered finishes can often look 'heavy' in the application and because of the thickness of the coating it can become a problem with certain types of design, with centre caps for example, being difficult to fit especially without marking.
  14. Unlike an ICE engine which needs significant revs to produce torque, an traction electric motor will produce a flat torque curve whether at 100rpm, 1000rpm or 10000rpm. There is no need for a gearbox to compensate for a lack of low speed torque. ICE's by their nature are very wasteful with only one stroke out of four producing power the others producing pumping losses, not to mention the inevitable wasted heat energy. Diesel efficiency is at best 45% and petrol even less Once technology moves on to allow wheel mounted motors, the use of 'gearboxes' will also become a thing of the past.
  15. Standard non AC e34 do not have any form of air recirculation. Only AC equipped vehicles (manual or auto/climate) will have it. Most cars came with only with the standard manually operated recirculate button on the heater control panel that the driver would use as required. Your document shows the retrofit kit needed to supposedly negate the need for the driver to operate said button, all recirculate modes now being controlled automatically. Not sure how effective it was/is in operation, though I doubt you'd really miss it. So unfortunately you'll be unable to fit this unless you go over to AC Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk