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FIVE-OH

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FIVE-OH last won the day on March 15 2015

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  1. FIVE-OH

    Should i convert to manual

    For me, not so long ago it would be manual all day long. However with the years going by I'm drawing more and more towards fully automatic transmission for a daily runner. I was seriously keen on that manual e60 545 touring that was on here a few weeks back, but for the first time the diy gear option whilst still appealing kinda did not feel the correct choice at that time for that particular motor. I've still got two other manual keeper BMW's, so a third one to my mind again whilst desirable was not really necessary for my needs. In regards to the OP's original question, if the car is in good overall condition and the intention is to keep it, I would just have the gearbox rebuilt or obtain a rebuilt replacement. I would expect a full manual conversion to work out to at least 2/3rds or more of the cost of a decent auto box rebuild. I don't think there would be that much in it unless your doing the work yourself. Good luck with it either way going forward.
  2. FIVE-OH

    Wanted E3 Engine

    The fuel pump on pre fuel injected M30's was mounted on the cylinder head and operated by a lobe on the camshaft. In theory you could use the e28 short motor with the e3 cylinder head. There was a change to the shape of the coolant passages from an oblong'ish shape to rounds ones to reduce cracking. Unless originality is desired, I'd much rather swap over to fuel injection. Those twin solex carburettors were a pain to set up and keep in tune and thirsty even when on song. Incidentally, the very first injected e3's carried 'D' jetronic rather than the vastly superior L' jetronic. The control unit for these lived under the passenger seat in a large box and was completely analogue/vacuum in operation.
  3. FIVE-OH

    Coolant leak from drain tap?

    Ok. I've experienced and been caught out by this issue previously. The (blue) draining bolt has failed. I'd advise you change/replace it immediately and not use the car until you do so. This thread should explain your issue. A lucky save imo. Indicates good observation by a sympathetic owner.
  4. FIVE-OH

    What have you done on your E34 Today

    Indeed. Two jobs well we worth completing and in the case of the fuel lines, possibly critical now due to the age of the cars. I used the dinitrol range of products namely 447 which is a rubberized compound and over paintable. Happy with the coverage but it does seem to fade slightly once fully dry after a few weeks. There are plenty other products on the market but the dinitrol seems to be readily available and decent value. In regards to the fuel & brake lines, these are available from the main dealer. The fuel lines come pre shaped but the brake lines do not. I'd advise soaking the retaining clip screws with a good releasing agent regularly before attempting to remove the small securing screws. Absolutely nothing stopping you from making up your own fuel lines if inclined and you can get some piping suitable for the job in hand. You only need to renew the flow & return lines. You can discard the vapour line completely as not used on earlier models but you'll have to blank off at the vapour canister under the o/s/r wing.
  5. FIVE-OH

    1989 E34 Headlight issue

    Can't say on part No's, but the lkm module stays in the under bonnet main fusebox. It's the larger one of the two modules. Pull it out, open it carefully and inspect the large relays on the board. http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Maintenance/Electrical/LKM.htm
  6. FIVE-OH

    E34 Front Strut / Suspension Shopping List

    I ran the spax PSX kit for some years, though in fact I'm about to replace them with the ubiquitous bilstein set up. I didn't think they were too bad being half the price even then of the bilsteins. Bear in mind that if purchasing new, the spax are made to order with a six week lead time in my case. They require no welding, being standard conventional coil over McPherson strut suspension. A straight forward exchange for what's already fitted. In regard to the front struts, there are differences between early and later vehicles. Your car appears to be a fairly early example so should have the 97mm hub. When the works went over to the 83mm hubs, the mounting hole for the ABS sensor also moved to accommodate the reduced diameter. I have also heard that the stut body diameter also changed, but I cannot yet confirm this. There is nothing stopping you from using either type of strut although it becomes more involved overall if you do swap.. I'd advise sticking to what you have. Most 535i's always had top mounts similar to e32 items and 31331134096 are what you need iirc. These may have also been fitted to 'sport' equipped M50 vehicles also, hence the Mtech label.
  7. FIVE-OH

    1989 E34 Headlight issue

    Historically, the usual suspect is the LKM module which can suffer internally from dry solder joints. Reflowing any cracked joint should cure the problem. Easy diy, plenty links on the inter web.
  8. The e34 first appeared in the uk powered with an exclusively 6cyl engine range and was shortly joined by the 4cyl 518 released later. The e34 530i was dropped when the 24v m50 motors appeared which made it irrelevant and the truth was it was always regarded as the runt of the litter. When the two v8 M60's were released, the much loved 3.5ltr m30 was also discontinued although in real terms it could still hold it's own against the 530 v8 especially in manual form. The v8 motors had previously debuted in the e32 7ser but the six cylinder 730 was always available (i believe possibly special order only) alongside the v8 730 until the very end of e32 production. Personally, I reckon the e32/34 era 3.0 M30 did far better fitted to the 7ser than it did in the e34. With a big luxury car, my own preference would be the larger or largest power unit available though ultimately not every buyer required this.
  9. FIVE-OH

    What have you done on your E34 Today

    A major step forwards on this one. Not much happens during the winter months cos I just can't be dealing with the cold if I can help it. So early spring saw a resumption in activities. After some minor filling/tidying I decided to finally apply the external body Shultz to the sills Then a thorough dousing with cavity wax inside all four jacking points and associated areas. In the meantime the interior trim and carpeting was refitted....... .........as well as yet another replacement dash top. I also fitted a decent Mtech 1 wheel in place of the alpina, as I want to have that refurbished. Once all that was done and with a few other tasks also completed, it was time for an MOT...... which it promptly failed on an fuel leak. After some fiddling around I sourced the leak to the forward tank return pipe which was inevitably found to be seriously corroded. I had replaced the rear one some years ago. I decided to swerve the main dealer on this occasion and luckily I found a decent length of rigid mild steel 'coated' piping, that was knocking around the workshop and was more than suitable for the job. I made up replacements for both front and rear returns. These were bent to the required shape and fitted. A few hours work one evening (which was pretty much the case throughout the whole job) Once this was done, I had it retested and obtained it's first ticket in 3yrs. So now with 95% of the welding all done, I'm now turning my attention to the suspension which is really on its last. Starting at the rear, i'm preparing a completely refurbished rear end that I will build up over the next couple of months. All bushes, clips, brackets and bolts etc to be renewed along with backplates and as a matter of course wheel bearings. In total, just for the sill/jacking point repairs including panels, body cuts, trim, sealants and materials, I'd estimate a cost of at least £600. But the biggest penalty i found is time. It's a good thing you can't really charge yourself....... With autumn/winter fast approaching I've starting detailing the car. With having been parked beside a railway, under a sappy tree and with all that grinding and general filth on the car this is taking some doing. Still a fair way from its 'peak condition' in my hand and I still have a few small areas of minor welding to do but the difficult work is done.
  10. FIVE-OH

    Piston scratches and nicks

    They are a bit marked up.. Forget the dremmel. Your more likely to take off too much material. Pistons should all be within 'x' amount grams difference of each other, especially if blueprinting the motor. I would be getting some very very fine paper and gently removing the high spots of any gouges. Don't try to eradicate the marks completely as you'll possibly introduce flat spots to the skirt promoting blow by. The mark on the crown will eventually be covered by carbon so would not worry too much on that one, just tidy it up. If 're-ringing' the pistons, care should be taken in regards to ring gaps which must be spot on... I'd suggest approaching a good engine machine shop/builder for their opinion if at all possible.
  11. FIVE-OH

    e34 Dashboard removal

    Here's where it gets more involved.... The pipes coming through on the passenger side, indeed need to be disconnected as do the rigid aluminium pipes on the drivers side if the vehicle has A/C specified. Then from the engine side of the scuttle panel, remove the heater motor access panel and the blower motor, then remove the (5 iirc) bolts securing the HVAC box to the bulkhead. The access panel can be difficult to remove depending on the type of motor fitted. The lower bolts can occasionally be seized, particularly the central one and the actual opening itself can also suffer from corrosion around the edges. To confirm. The only way the remove the carpet without cutting it, is to remove the heater box complete.
  12. FIVE-OH

    e34 Dashboard removal

    To remove dash top there are torx screws either side under the A post trims and two 13mm bolts under the dash also either side. There are three screws under the centre dash vent. You can unplug the dash loom under the passenger side foot well.
  13. FIVE-OH

    Help with "Alpina" B10 cam install requested

    Double check for air leak. Anywhere downstream from AFM inc injectors and valve cover etc. Look down between No 3 and 4 intake runners and immediately under the port for the ICV is another port that should (in an e34) be bunged off. Been caught out twice before with this particular port though I will admit the symptoms were not near as bad as your own. What tends to happen is the bung perishes and if the engine backfires for any reason it will blow the remains of the bung out causing a massive air leak. Cam/valve timing sounds right so can't see issue there. You would reverse your HT leads to prove 180 degree out theory. Failing that a thorough back to basics check should be made and I personally would loose the 'alpina' chip until happy the issue is sorted.
  14. FIVE-OH

    E39 propshaft

    Look again at the front coupling first as a priority. The rear joint is actually a CV joint which could be either dry or heavily worn. I have also seen (Spicer type) prop U/J's fail and if this is the case the prop is usually scrap as they are staked into position. The prop needs to be split to renew the centre bearing but ensure you mark the two sections of shaft in relation to each other. I'd use a centre punch or such like to do this rather than a blob of paint which can be rubbed off easily by mistake during the task.
  15. FIVE-OH

    How to pick a good boiler

    I went for a vaillant combi 2yrs ago. And very pleased with it i am as well. I'd over spec'd it on size so to avoid it always running at full bore. Instead of 28/30kw i fitted a 36kw. Typical 1930's property running 7 rads, its more than capable and very quiet with ample capacity should the need arise to increase. The only thing i would do differently would be a filtered/softened water supply since the water here (Nth london/herts) is as hard as nails. I have been told the Worcester bosch product has fallen down severely on quality with plenty of internal components made of plastic. The baxi, which i also considered, was until a few years ago, primarily equipped with brass fittings but possibly now similar to the WB internally.
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