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FIVE-OH

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FIVE-OH last won the day on March 15 2015

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  1. FIVE-OH

    Rust curing on e28s

    Go for the dinitrol products. Readily available and reasonable value. In comparison, Upol gravitex appears to be a hard type of coating, 3m stuff whilst superb is pricey and not that easy to obtain imo. Bilt hamber also very good but range and packaging not as good, which left the dinitrol. I can fully appreciate the OP's dilemma about the choice of products available from dinitrol but in the end I went for.... 3125/ML: cavity wax. 4941: underbody chassis coating. Solvent based 447: Anti stone chip protection (overpaintable) rubber based. Unfortunately, although these products are available in aerosol form, it is by far better to use an proper Schultz gun with lance extension, not only to give good penetration inside the cavity but also to get the correct texture when applied externally. It's virtually indistinguishable from the OEM factory application. You'll need at least 4bar (aprox 60psi) minimum air pressure up to 6bar max. I used the 4941 for general coverage after a thorough clean, but used the 447 for areas that possibly may be painted. Both go on nicely but the 4941 takes ages to dry. Old engine oil is great for protecting pressed sheet steel, though I would be cautious these days. It will find its way out eventually and it poses a safety risk to other road users, especially when it rains.
  2. FIVE-OH

    540i - Starter Motor Failed?

    A good decent healthy fully charged battery should show 12.6v across the terminals. 12.2 is half capacity and anything 12 and below is discharged. Only check after the battery has been sitting a bit, say overnight but not directly after a run as the residual charge could confuse things. If discharged then fully charge the battery on low amps over 12-24 hrs. The voltage should be around 13v immediately after the charge, rapidly falling back to 12.6v (2.1v per cell) and should stay there. When cranking over the engine its a good idea to check the draw on the battery. If your seeing it drop to 7-8 volts or lower its finished. A drop tester if available will confirm for sure. If it also can't hold 12.6v, again its finished. With the engine running you should see at least 13.8 to 14v running under load and perhaps 14.4 running light. It is always best to check alternator output at the alternator itself using the B+ terminal, though this is not always possible due to any generators location in different applications. Bear in mind you will get a slight voltage drop due to the long cable run to battery at the rear of the car, perhaps 0.5v. I would fit the largest size battery that will physically fit. The battery can also act as a reserve if the generator is at maximum output and on a cold winter morning you'll be glad for the extra cranking power it will provide, especially with a diesel motors on short runs. Finally. Try to purchase from a vendor with a high turnover of product. Batteries can sometimes sit for a surprisingly long time between manufacturing and being sold, slowly sulphating up which reduces capacity and/or life expectancy.
  3. FIVE-OH

    E39 M5 Fuel Pipes

    It's to do with emission control. The third (vapour) line carries the excess fuel vapour from the fuel tank up to whats known as a charcoal canister which is usually located in the engine bay. This canister reduces the hydrocarbon content of the fuel vapour with any excess drawn off and piped to the engine to be burnt during normal combustion. This (long time mandatory) set up avoids the hydrocarbon pollution of fuel tanks vented direct to atmosphere, though vapour escape whilst refuelling is for the most part unavoidable.
  4. FIVE-OH

    Drops of oil on this 'thing'

    Those are the high & low pressure pipes for the air con compressor which has been removed. The ends of the piping having been plugged off to prevent dirt and moisture ingress. The big nuts are the unions that secure the piping to the compressor.
  5. FIVE-OH

    535i clutch

    All e34 535i will have the dmf. Not a particularly common component through normal suppliers, though I'd expect your local dealer to be able to supply at significant cost. Alternatively, if you can find one, you can use any solid flywheel from a earlier M30 or an s38 motor, bar the 3.8m5. This will however require a sprung clutch plate since the dmf one has a solid hub. Unfortunately the solid flywheel, particularly the lighter 7.9kg item are scarce used and the clutch units are also not so easy to source these days as well. The accepted upgrade is to a e34 3.6 m5 or an e28 535i clutch unit which are apparently now main dealer only and expensive. The use of a solid flywheel will not give any more power but it will allow what power you do have to be deployed more effectively. M10 flywheels also appear to fit but are drilled for a 228mm clutch against 240mm for the m30's The primary reason dmf's are fitted is to reduce NVH throughout the drive train. Fitting one may introduce or increase noise/vibration, as well as the dreaded gearbox rattle. Dmf's do also act as a form of crankshaft (harmonic) damper. I don't think there's much in it overall in cost between solid/dmf If you can source the components quickly and easily, go for the solid set up. If not, the standard dmf even at almost 12kg, is the only other realistic option.
  6. FIVE-OH

    Battery tray question

    All vehicles specified with the underseat battery (525i up) do indeed have the battery sit direct on the floor pan. The rudimentary clamp goes across the the top. On the o/s/f of the rear heelboard is a small access panel for the earthing point for the battery. If the battery needs to be disconnected its at this point where it should be done saving you having to lift the rear bench. The largest battery that will fit is an 019. Other than making sure the compartment is clean and dry with the vent in place there's little else to worry about, though If there is any sign of corrosion adjacent to the sill it could be a problem.
  7. FIVE-OH

    Bl**dy handbrake adjustment

    It's quiet possible that there is little to no lining left on the shoe. In theory, auxiliary hand brake shoes should never need changing but in reality very often do. I don't usually touch the adjustment of the cables at all, though it's possible that they could of stretched. With a new set up, the shoe/operating lever should be in the 'fully rested/off' position. The cable should be set so that as soon as the lever is applied it begins to moved the shoe to the on position proportionately. With everything 'off' again, adjust the shoes with the wheel on. Without the wheel it's difficult to judge just how tight your adustment actually is. Again, if all new, set the shoes fairly tight (almost binding) and give a quick drive to bed in and take the high edges of the linings off. Don't overheat the linings at this point. Leave to cool and readjust. After a few hundred miles adjust again if necessary. New shoes on old discs need a much longer time to bed in, so if preparing for test, give yourself a few weeks to get optimal performance.
  8. FIVE-OH

    BMW E34 M5 S38B36 Restoration

    Hmmm £250 per side is an awful lot of money for essentially 2 pieces of curved metal that could be constructed from 3mm sheet. Simply not cost effective and good money that can be spent elsewhere on the car. I would at least attempt it, even if not confident. Make it up out of cardboard and sticky tape to get something similar in shape and roughly to scale and use that as your template. It doesn't matter if it has to be formed like a box and it should be even stronger thst way. I really don't think you need to purchase anything more but it's entirely up to you. One last thing. It seems that you consider the rear sills to be serviceable. Looking at the state of the front sections its likely that there will be some corrosion in the rears also. It would be annoying to say the least, to do all that repair work only to find the rears do need doing further down the road. All imo btw. Good luck and dont hesitate to ask if any more info is required.
  9. FIVE-OH

    BMW E34 M5 S38B36 Restoration

    Well it seems you've come across one of the more tricky issues with this repair. Forget getting someone in to do it. You can diy if you got this far. You are unlikely the get the strengtheners separate from the panel anywhere and from experience your not likely to need that particular panel unless the corrosion is extensive or impact damaged. Replacing the A post frame complete means you interfere with the door hinge alignment, so there is a need to be very accurate with fitting this panel so as to.get the door gaps correct. So along with the cost, its just not worth the aggro imo. For the jacking points, i cut and shut some spare rear strengtheners to suit the shape of the front items. Effectively, cutting out and rebuilding the corroded sections of the originals. The n/s came out quite well but the o/s which was generally worse, not quiet so good. I did have to compromise slightly from original. I also did away with the hole directly under the jack point. You don't have to 'copy' the exact design of strengthener and although the rear ones are similar, they are of a different shape in profile and width. The thickness of the steel for the strengthening point is also as you might expect thicker at 11-12 guage (2.5-3mm) so its possible to make up something to suit. It can look whatever since no one is ever going to see it once you close it up. Whatever you do it must extend down and parallel to the fitted level of the lower horizontal sill. I also put a spot of weld either side at the rear where the strengtheners meet and abutt the inner sill. This helps by stopping the bracket folding in on itself. From this... To this... A bit of jiggery pokery gets this... On the car Ready for closing up. Plenty of measuring and trial fitting is in order. Avoid cutting too close to the top curve of the sill as this may lead to the need of excessive filling work once ground off to get the shape right. Only cut as high as you need to eliminate rust.
  10. FIVE-OH

    Sword removal

    Howdy Geoff. Thanks for that clarification buddy. I was under the impression that all AC equipped vehicles came with the filters as standard. Makes sense as there are different versions of the heater box assembly perhaps up to five inc non AC models Something learned and all that . Ill be in touch once the weather starts brightening up.
  11. FIVE-OH

    Sword removal

    Yes you do. You'll find the pollen filter goes in from the n/s iirc. If replacing go for genuine or high quality replacements. Some budget filters come as one piece whereas the genuine item should come in two pieces. Much much easier to fit. In regards to the sword. I've never had to touch one in situ, but I'd be attempting to tease it out in the space available. Perhaps if the IHKA module (which is fits alongside the sword) is moved also, it may make it slightly easier to manoeuvre it out of position. There is a very good chance of a dry solder on the sword pcb. It appears that your car has the fully (almost) automatic IHKA system. These over the years have become a bit of a liability in terms of reliability. There are TEN stepper motors controlling the system and whilst the motors themselves are fairly reliable the mountings where they attach, particularly the front outer two, tend to break off the main body of the heater unit causing a world of pain. I would suggest exercising extreme caution should you need to go that far with the system in future. I believe i have a sword and the stepper motors somewhere here... Lovely car btw. I still reckon the 3.5ltr m30 powered e34's sit behind only the 540 in the non M model hierarchy.
  12. FIVE-OH

    What have you done on your E34 Today

    Yes, genuine OEM As you'd expect a very high quality item capable of covering all needs. Usually back order but at most about a week from Germany. If the corrosion is not severe then perhaps the klokk panel may be suitable but tbh you don't get anywhere near the versatility of the BMW item.
  13. FIVE-OH

    Intensive Wash - Info required

    Olly. The n/s reservoir is found on vehicles specified with headlight beam washer jets, fitted for not only the dipped and main beam lamp units but also the front fog lights. Usually the pump assembly is either siezed or the pump body itself close to the outlets is usually broken. They do get very brittle with age. If the warning lamp is now staying on then it's quiet possible that the wiring to the sensor is broken, the sensor stuck, or a loom plug dirty. The wiring again due to brittleness and the sensor stuck due to scale. The plumbing should still be in place behind the bumper. Shouldn't take much to get the system operational.
  14. FIVE-OH

    What have you done on your E34 Today

    On to th o/s A bit more tricky since the tinworm had spread a bit further. All ready for a quick skim of filler to finish. I'm debating which underseal system I'm going to use. There seems to be so many choices on the market but the gravitex system looks good but I think gives a 'hard' finish. The dinitrol system seems a good product particularly the wax for box sections but the 3m whilst superb is also very expensive. We'll see about that in the new year. Also fitted new rear drain tubes. Fitted them so they go down to the bottom of the sill, so the water has more chance to escape. As standard the drain tubes sit at least 6-8" above the bottom of the sill so the water goes everywhere. Incidentally it's a fair amount of water the flows through these pipes during even moderate rainfall. So it waits... so much more to do. Still a way to go but the hard work is done....
  15. FIVE-OH

    What have you done on your E34 Today

    It's done. Early November saw all sill welding completed. Turned out a real mission overall in the end although I did quite enjoy it. Made a change to the usual humdrum of the daily graft. Still a few areas to tidy but pretty much ready to seal. Unfortunately but realistically it's going to want at least both sides of the car painted, so more than likely a full respray. Not quiet as 'neat' In places as I'd of liked but its more than acceptable for this level of car, and given the level of corrosion cut out the only other option would have been to break it. Here's some shots. N/s first ready to close up BH dynax s50 applied carefully avoiding areas to weld Join ready for welding All fitted cleaned off and primed. Note location of lifting pad...
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