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dmarkovina1

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About dmarkovina1

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  1. dmarkovina1

    feeding car directly from 220v mains outlet?

    Start the car. Switch off the blower. Turn off the car. Connect the charger. P.S my ctek does not blow its fuse when blower is running.
  2. dmarkovina1

    feeding car directly from 220v mains outlet?

    I haven't had issue with ignition in Pos 2 with my CTEK charger (not he biggest one but one below). All I ever did was make sure I had switched off the blower. And I never worked with INPA/NCS Expert on the car for more than an hour or so and surely not at 20 below zero! Also I wasn't trying to crank the engine off the charger. If you have CTEK (and I assume other) intelligent chargers you can parallel connect them to double up the amperage.
  3. dmarkovina1

    Coolant air bleeding

    Heating on Max temp?
  4. dmarkovina1

    Roof bars and roof boxes

    Pls note that the width of the groove on (Thule made) BMW bars is bigger than that on Thule bars. Either get big washers or if pedantic BMW specific T bolts from Thule (or BMW) - otherwise the narrower Thule T bolt(s) may slip out of the groove.
  5. dmarkovina1

    Roof bars and roof boxes

    They should all fit - if unsure you can check on BMWfans.info. Never heard of model specific box - I understand they are just rebranded Thule boxes.
  6. dmarkovina1

    ABS hell (sorry)

    Have you had a chance to hook up inpa - the errors logged by inpa are more descriptive than generic obd codes. Most often than not the issues is the module - unless you get plausibility error for a particular ABS sensor then it's a sensor. My guy (in Croatia) can fix pretty much everything on the module provided it wasn't butchered beforehand - 4 years ago I sent my faulty E39 unit to him and got it back very quickly. No issues ever since. Sadly my E38 unit was butchered 2 years prior by an idiot who thought he knew, and he couldn't fix that - had to buy a new one have it coded to the car. 500EUR Vs 120EUR cost. One can easily drive without the ABS and ASC for a little while provided no MOT is imminent - with a a plastic bag wrapped over the unit to keep it clean.
  7. dmarkovina1

    New Ignition switch, will not crank

    New switch faulty?
  8. dmarkovina1

    Reassurance needed! Massive oil top up

    Check the oil filter housing gasket, peek under the manifold with a flashlight to inspect otherwise not very noticeable, unless you can raise the car. Also I have had great success with Liqui Moly Ceratec. My 240k miles 525i used to drink a lot of oil, to the point I had considered letting it go. Not any more. Now adding it with every oil change. And fully agree with 0w-40 being too thin for a high mileage M54 with low friction piston oil rings, especially with UK winters being mild.
  9. dmarkovina1

    Oil consumption e60 525i se

    I would stick with 5w-40 instead of 5w-30 and add Ceratec - it reduced oil consumption on my stellar mileage E39 - also 525i - to less than a half of what it used to be.
  10. dmarkovina1

    Diff Whine or Rear Wheel Bearing

    With car jacked up, you can check if rear ball joints are worn with 12-6 o'clock method. Whilst at it it's worth doing the 9 -3 o'clock check to see if your rear suspension arms have any play. If all good then the wheel alignment make sense.. If your car is a sports model ask for it to be set up using SE values - less aggressive camber and toe in and hence less inner tyre wear.
  11. dmarkovina1

    Diff Whine or Rear Wheel Bearing

    The whine stays the same regardless of the engine being in gear or decoupled?
  12. dmarkovina1

    Diff Whine or Rear Wheel Bearing

    As per YouTube video below it is stamped into the bearing seal itself.
  13. dmarkovina1

    Diff Whine or Rear Wheel Bearing

    If wheel bearing is shot then there is usually a constant rumble even at low speed. It sounds much worse then it really is - on my E38 when the bearing failed there was hardly any movement in the bearing itself and I was under impression the wheel was going to fall off... If the rumble changes the tune when cornering than it is surely the wheel bearing and not the diff.
  14. dmarkovina1

    Rear Facelift Lights

    Apparently BMW did change the internals design to make the LED pack more reliable. You may be able to find a manufacture date stamped on the light unit somewhere but not sure on this.
  15. dmarkovina1

    Rear Facelift Lights

    Those are LEDs indeed. There's fair few posts on them being dim or out altogether. Apparently BMW over time revised the part to be more reliable. Do check all connectors first plus the ground for the light affected. If no joy that I guess you need a new light unless you're into electronics.
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