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About Steve_H_

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  • Location
    Kingsclere Hants
  • Occupation
    Witch finder General
  1. Steve_H_

    Complicated dashboard light issue, Help please!

    Okay a bit of an update (desperate attempt to keep the E28 forum alive, did you lot all rush off and by E39s instead?!) I believe I have traced the issue and yep its the switch, its always the bloody switch even when it appears not be. Basically I couldn't really figure out what was going on and worst still, armed with new info I couldn't under stand how my previous bodge had worked at all (yet it did). So after stripping apart the dash following wires checking connections pulling the fuse box apart and taking the gauge cluster out. I decided to take the switch apart and clean the inside, un wire my bodge and re connect the switch properly....hey presto I have dash lights! So sorted then hopefully, the good news is that unlike some modern stuff, if you are careful these switches can stripped cleaned and re built, which is handy as they are hard to obtain and the correct one for mine at least was no longer made. Bad news I now have to put the car back together, oh joy!
  2. Hi Guys, the one one thing I used to rely on with my old E28 was its electronics everything worked fine, well not any more. To cut a long story short the headlight switch developed a fault, the rheostat bit caused fuses to pop and the dash lights and tail lights to go out. Finding the correct switch for mine is currently NLA I decided to bypass the rheostat part ...hey presto I had dash lights that came on with the headlights but for some reason no front fogs and the trip computer dimmed as soon as you put the headlamps on (I bypassed the stat by connecting the grey and white wire to the brown and white wire, if that makes sense?). Anyway that worked for a bit until Saturday when the dash lights went off and stayed off. Doing some digging I checked the power to the individual lights in the heater control panel and found they had 12 volts on both sides? Checked so both brown/white and red /white wires are hot? I disconnected my bodge and found that again the brown and white wire has power and so did the grey and white? The more I dig the more confusing it gets I guess the brown/white should act as an earth (so why did it work when I initially back fed it power? Can anyone confirm were the brown and white wire goes it appears to connect to every dash light/diode thing -and it runs in to the dash guages at two points plus connects to the rheostat on the headlight switch does it connect any were else? Thanks in advance.
  3. Thanks John! Talk about missing the obvious large bolt holes staring me in the face!
  4. Oh well in for a penny... I have just ordered a new flange through Cotswold BMW, slight snag its on back order from Germany so I suspect I will be in for a wait.
  5. I take it I will need to "lock" the engine somehow to stop it simply turning over while I try and undo the nut (30mm BTW!) . I suspect this isn't going to be a fun job, especially as the car is up on normal hobby ramps, rather than anything more heavy duty.
  6. Steve_H_

    Omex and out

    Ouch these shells look a bit raw! Any idea why it ran low on oil pressure?
  7. I have to hold my hands up on this one, the car is driven sporadically. Previously I had felt a bit of slop in the transmission but I wasn't really sure what it was and my previous prodding and poking hadn't really been invasive enough!
  8. I know the title suggests it but this is not a Heston Blumenthal recipe but the latest chapter of my long suffering 528i. The car started to suffer a thumping sensation under acceleration, I suspected something in the prop. So I got the car up in the air and firstly discovered one loose bolt in the rubber doughnut, I tightend the nut and bolt and took it for a quick test drive, thinking I had found the culprit, no such luck. So this time I got the car back up in the air, got the exhaust off (only had to cut one bolt off!) and dropped the prop shaft heat shield and found the inside of the heat shield looked like this... This was caused by the rubber surround of the centre bearing failing, it had pretty much split all the way round bar 1 inch of rubber. I checked the joints at both ends of the prop, they seem good, so I ordered all the relevant bits, fitted a new centre bearing and was all lined up to re fit the prop when I made this grim discovery... The output flange on the gearbox has had one point worn away by I assume the loose bolt. So I now need to track down an out put flange for an overdrive box, if any one has one lying around please let me know!
  9. Steve_H_

    Arms too short... Ruddy pattern parts!

    A bit of an update. After trying a few local factors and getting now where (one place could get me a left hand TRW arm but not the right, helpfull!), I ended up contacting Fritzbitz, they sourced some TRW arms, which turned up very quickly. I fitted them both earlier today and I am pretty pleased. I would also like to say I am impressed with Fritzbitz level of service and speedyness of delivery, highly recommended! Interestingly I figured out what was wrong with the Firstline arms, the section above the thread on the ball joint end was too wide for the hole, that's a pretty poor manufacturing fault IMO.
  10. Steve_H_

    Arms too short... Ruddy pattern parts!

    I have to admit, I was surprised by how cheap they were, now I know why! Hopefully they will be going back on tomorrow and being replaced by something branded or I will have to go to BMW and bend over....
  11. Hi, long time no post! My 528i failed its MOT on a soggy bush in the drivers side top/thrust arm. I ordered parts from my local factors and earlier today set about getting the arm off and replacing it. The arm came out in a fairly straight forward fashion, foolishly I thought that would be the hard part and it would all go back together easily... Anyway, could I get the ball jointed end to fit in the hole, could I f@@@! It absolutely wouldn't go home, you could slide the threaded end in but that was it. Initially I thought it was me, I wondered maybe you need to take the steering arm and bottom/control arm off but no that was't the issue. I finally compared the new and old arm using the bolt out of the old one to hold them together at the cross member end and found that the new arm was actually a couple of mill short and the ball joints were off. Have I found a really bad pattern part? Or could it be an arm for a 7 or 6 series? Your thoughts would be appreciated!
  12. Steve_H_

    new e28 2 supercharged now

    Is the car in the first vid running a higher rpm supercharger? It has a lovely zingy angry-ness to it!
  13. Steve_H_

    Tow bars

    Right some dodgy pics, hope this helps!
  14. Steve_H_

    Tow bars

    Mine did have a towbar and still has the structure in the boot, I will post some pictures up for you tomorrow if that helps?
  15. Steve_H_

    Long time no post... a bit of major MOT prep!

    Fuel leak sorted, dropped the exhaust, then the tank (after siphoning 40 ltrs of petrol off and putting it in the girlfriends car, lucky girl!). I found two tiny holes at the base of two of the vent pipes. So I cleaned them up and repaired with some tank repair paste stuff. It appears to work so I will continue to use the car and keep a sharp eye out for drips. Goldsoul, I like my 14"s, there is a weird theme going in that my daily run about Mazda has 14s, the BMW obviously has 14s and now my project Scimitar has 14" Wolfraces. So clearly 14 is the magic number!