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Everything posted by DennisCooper

  1. Hi, Later this year the UK get's the M550d X Drive variant! Impressive figures but I don't think these examples will return anywhere the official MPG figures quoted! Re-map anyone ! Cheers, Dennis!
  2. Hi Elizabeth, Excellent modifcations and end result with the colour change and interior retrim! I've got those same seats on my shortlist as well ! Those Recaro CS's are lovely, not common at all on E39's but all over the place for the VW scene and a good few sets on the M3/4 BMW's. I want something different and will be having a chat with Lawrence again soon'ish I'll agree with Dan1979, you need a set of 'wow' wheels ! have you still got the ACS Type 3 racings? if so, have them converted to 3 piece and ensure you get a nice deep lip; If you've got them but might want to move them on, let me know! I might be tempted ! The OZ's are nice enough though still Any more plans?! or are they still only for you to know about !? Cheers, Dennis!
  3. Hi Ricky, Nice little list of upgrades to work through! I think with the amount of effort and faffing around needed, you'll be disappointed with the ed result of using the OEM Hi-Fi modules and speakers. The oem 'Sub' doesn't provide any actual 'sub bass' as it doesn't respond to frequencies low enough. You'll get some 'bass' from it though, perhaps at around 60Hz and above but at low SPL levels, i.e not very powerful bass. Would be much better results if you upgraded the speakers and used an actual subwoofer solution ! The setup with the oem modules to have the Intravee and Alpine processor can get you fantastic results, but only if you use quality amplifiers and upgraded component speakers and a good efficient subwoofer solution. With OEM speakers, the effect will be there, but not anywhere near as good which then makes the cost/hassle/faff around less worthwhile. The powered tailgate indeed can be retrofitted, not many kits come up and the last one was the setup Jimmy had for sale towards end of summer 2016. I considered it for my car as a party trick, but then didn't want the hassle of it in case it fails sooner or later, is that the kit you bought? The Touring rear seats where the armrest is - the location isn't 'deep' enough for the much thicker E38 one, and no real point in a Touring of having a ski hatch as you can just place the skis on top of any bags you have which are above the height of the rear seat upright, which in turn is very likely to happen if you are going skiing ! The contours, rear door blinds, double glazing will be great upgrades! Double Glazing would be awesome for me as I'd get even better audio performance as well as a relaxing drive when just cruising. I'll most likely go the quality window Tinting option as I currently have the Police spec, clear anti smash film on mine and will get tinted anti smash film instead, so no need for the faff of fitting oem blinds. A good set of E38 Sport Contours is an option on my list for seats, but I'm thinking of a couple aftermarket options and then re-trimming them and the interior. Roof rail delete I think is easy once you get under the roof lining and loosen then remove the screws for the bars to just lift off. In case your boss doesn't clear that purchase, speak to Hayward and Scott who may well make you an exhaust upgrade ! Cheers, Dennis!
  4. Hi, One of the 2 in the world Right Hand Drive Dakar Yellow E39 M5's is up for sale on UK Ebay currently! For anyone wanting an Individual M5 that's also very rare, this could be your chance ! Asking price is £15,500, pre-faclift 1999. Looks like bit of a bit of a dirty engine bay and something is hanging just under the front bumper that's yellow but shouldn't be there. The advert itself isn't very good at all and the more potentially serious issue of the Engine Management light constantly on but the BMW dealer Dick Lovett unable to find any faults is mentioned! Heritage full black leather, later upgrades for the headlamps and rear lamp clusters, 16:9 oem monitor upgrade and I think what looks like the very rare Birch Anthracite interior trims. Yellow dual colour later steering wheel and handbrake leather cover. Nothing else listed in the advert ! Looks like it's one to have a fine tooth comb check over prior to any purchase and I suspect it'll sell for quite a bit lower than the asking price in current condition! Cheers, Dennis!
  5. Hi, A busy last few days for me on various bits, so not had any real time to do any tests and fuse pulling etc. However, what I did do is turn my manual fan controller to the full 'off' position and left for around 36 hours or so. Came back to the car and .. it fired up fast and quickly right away. Left the car for another 20+ hours and left the fan off, upon needing the car again, it fired up fast and quickly again no problem at all. The same again over Thursday night, and needed the car Friday 4pm is and, again, started quickly and back home again by 5pm. Needed the car earlier today around 430pm so almost 24 hours later and no problem at all, quick turnover of starter motor and engine fired up rightaway. Will be needing the car tommorow and every day next week with 8-9am starts and 6pm or so times for back home. I suspect with the above slightly non accurate way, that it is my Final Stage Resistor and also the cabin air fan/blower has finally given up ! not a bad innings at around 275,000 miles or so's worth of use! I'll lookup the guide I remember seeing somewhere to convert the manual controls to the digital ones - it's a dash top off and fiddly job to change/swap over, but it can be done. Cheers, Dennis!
  6. Hi, I'm going through some electrical gremlins at the moment. Fitted a new battery (optoma yellow top gel battery) around October 2016 and all has been fine since that. Car wouldn't start last week and a quick checkup showed the alternator wasn't charging, so had that changed for a high output 150A unit. I last drove the car on Sunday evening and it all seemed ok. A few hours ago and although not totally flat, it was just under the level to start the car. A quick jump and it's fine and I've done a few errands and it's started each time. A quick check at a local auto electrics place and the test unit showed the alternator is charging at the battery terminals. I've had a quick look at the fusebox in the glovebox area; It's a single row of fuses and ends with fuse number 45. The supplied ID card is this; In my car, I have the manual/rotary control cabin air fan/blower setup. Over the last couple years, I get the 'chirping' sound from it as I think the internal fan is wearing out. Sometimes, months apart it'll stop blowing altogether and then a few days later, it'll burst back into life and it's all good for many months on end and will still chirp every so often. Last week it went off again and over the last few days it's not returned back 'on' again. I wanted to remove the fuse for the heater blower according to the list that shows as Fuse 76 but there's no provision for number 75/76 in the physical block. My FInal Stage Resistor was changed perhaps 5/6 years ago so I suspect that and/or the cabin airbox are what's causing the drain. I understand it could be another circuit so will need to test for those with a multimeter and look for current drops when fuses are pulled. So which fuse do I pull to cut power to the 'Heater Blower' ?! Cheers, Dennis!
  7. Never have, never will try any illegal substances, never had the inclination to either! I prefer enjoying some good alcohol every now and again ! The first F150 we had was fantastic, imported it over from Texas directly ourselves with perhaps 2000 miles on it as it was only around 6 months old. Only modification was lowering the ride height by about 6 inches and that really helped for cornering/handling! Thought about the new top part of the engine to take it from 340 HP to around 520 HP but decided to leave that. Thought about going for LPG, but found it's relatively difficult to do that properly and with only perhaps two specialists in the UK who could and knew how to do it well, their costs were significantly higher. Over the years, it went to being a weekend toy anyway so happy to fuel it normally. This thread should go back to discussing the Elekta M5! Cheers, Dennis!
  8. Hi, Here's the last Ford we had in the family Change of circumstances and having to add on an extra bedroom, loft conversion meant it only stayed for a few months early 2016. The first one of exactly the same model we had from late 2004 to around 2010'ish. Great fun looking for E36 M3's, Subaru WRX's, Porsche Boxters and all the hot hatch lot and seeing thier drivers faces when they caught up at traffic lights etc ! I'd definitely get something similar again over any of the classic UK fords! Cheers, Dennis!
  9. Hi, What's your budget?! plenty to choose from ! asking prices range from about £7.5K to £45K. You'll most likely find that actual selling prices will be lower than asking prices as well. Plenty of threads and guides of what to look for and potential issue areas to check on examples you see. Good luck ! Cheers, Dennis!
  10. Hi, It's an SE but has the Sport seats in black. The steering wheel is the thinner 'Sport' one that's been retrimmed with the M Sport thumb grips and covered in perforated leather. The Dash top probably isn't worn, it's the glare of the sun when the photo was taken. The rear load cover looks quite decent actually, seen many more with evidence of more frays and marks on them. The pictures are relatively decent compared to many you see from car dealers on the usual sites, so perhaps worth a look in real life for anyone wanting an E39 540i Touring. Flying Banana - Plenty of used car dealers up and down the country are able to offer car finance. Cheers, Dennis!
  11. Hi, Might be worthwhile updating your details to include your location as you've often got parts for sale from breaking cars! Is the front underside plastic tray available? Also the black dash top? I'm also thinking of changing to the digital controlled A/C panel and the airbox unit as well. Prices and availability on those please? Cheers, Dennis!
  12. Hi, It's relatively well known that driving standards in Germany are significantly better than here in the UK. Would it be fair to say that over there it's similar to the UK system of being allowed to drive on their equivalent of a Provisional license at 17 years old, and upon passing of their driving test, you are allowed on the rest of the public roads infrastructure throughout the country? I ask as I don't know the definitive answer - is their test more stringent perhaps? more/comprehensive driver training as part of the test? if not, and it's broadly the same, then why are their standards better than here? I can only think it's a 'mindset' thing. My best friend lived in Holland for 9 years and often pointed out that driving standards there were significantly better than here, much much MUCH less road rage for instance. Again, why would that be assuming their driving test is broadly the same as ours? I've driven relatively extensively in the US, and I'd say their standards are marginally worse than here, the biggestr bugbear for me was the lack of rear view mirror use. I've often passed along the 'inside' lane and looked over to see someone on their phone with a large milkshake straw in their gob. That said, on some of the bigger 4 and 6 lane highways, there's so much room to pass 2/3 lanes away from such a driver that progress can be made relatively easily. If the 5 years self appoint or voluntary test becomes an option, why would it cost a fortune to implement? I'm trying to see where the massive costs would be? surely, a driver pays the fee for a test and gets evaluated and passes they get a note on their record at DVLA. The government departments are becoming more data interlinked anyway. Those who don't pay the fee can opt for that, and when the insurance companies get a record from DVLA, much as they can do now to immediately check on any driving points/convictions they'll see no voluntary test has been done in 5/10/15 years and that persons premium will be loaded up. So in short, how does the government invoke something that changes the mindset of drivers? everyone moaned about the recent removal of the Road Fund License VED disc, and the aspect of the new buyer of a car having to sort out the payment as remaining VED can't be refunded or passed on - and we've all coped. The new test now has an aspect of having to use the SatNav and the older reverse round a corner thing is being dropped. Cheers, Dennis!
  13. Hi, Thanks for the responses ! I'll have a look around in the rear of the load area and also up/behind the glovebox too. Mine is a Diesel, Oct 2002 build so It'll have the later style FSR. My car is ultra low spec given it used to be a Police car, so I don't think it has the Webasto heater. Carlton, do you mean by removing the existing FSR, there's a plug there which I'll disconnect and leave like that to test? If I then find there's no 24/36 hour drainage of the battery, I could swap out the F/S/R for a new one, reconnect and then of course monitor for drainage again, correct ? Cheers, Dennis.
  14. Hi, The fusebox is just above the glovebox so you could make connections there, or trace some wires that are suitable around the dash area. A permanent live is self explanatory, a switched 12V is one that's live only when the ignition is switched to position 2, and a ground is self explanatory. If you aren't so confident with 12V electrics, then have a suitable auto electrician do the connections as it'll be both correct and more importantly, done safely. Cheers, Dennis!
  15. Hi, I think there's a few places offering the replacement key and overhaul services, BMkeys isn't too far from me being a trip around the North Circular. Duncan, the price he gave me was for overhaul/replacement of the internals to new. I think a whole new key is a little bit more, so I might opt for another spare. Cheers, Dennis!
  16. Hi Duncan, I think it's the internal transponder for the lock/unlocking is knackered, common issue with them. My current key is the same, no unlock/lock but starts the car. My other one the unlock/lock works ok but became intermittent in starting the car! I'm soon going to go over to BM Keys in East Ham to get two new keys - I called him a week or so ago and it's around £30-35 per key you want. Cheers, Dennis!
  17. Hi, I'd also agree with 5 year refresher tests as well. A relatively simple and easier to manage along with not very costly way to implement things would be to make it voluntary. A driver applies on the DVLA website for a refresh test and upon passing is issued with a number/reference and that is logged on the DVLA records. Drivers who choose not to take a refresher won't have a record and when they take out insurance, their premiums attract a higher rate. This would make it fair on all drivers as it's up to them to apply. It wouldn't cost much to implement and best of all, it'd begin to alter the mindset of the driving public on the whole and that should mean better driving standards and fewer issues/accidents. The UK does have good standards when compared to the rest of the world, when you begin to narrow down to perhaps European countries then we do lag somewhat. Over the next 5,10,15+ years, as more and more autonomous cars begin to be available for anyone to buy, there'll be less need for drivers licenses and thus, the 'skill' of driving will gradually erode. Being able to understand and program SatNav routes is perhaps the first step towards that. Apple in effect have just announced to the world that they intend on entering the autonomous/self driving cars sector over the last week or so officially. There's been speculation for a few years now. For people where car driving is just a means of moving around, you just know a significant number are going to sign up immediately for a 36 month 'Plan' to have an autonomous car sitting outside as it's from 'Apple' ! Cheers, Dennis!
  18. Hi Duncan, I agree in that it's just the drivetrain, gearbox, loom/ECU and the rest of the bits in the description supplied as a kit, however Deepan has currently mentioned that 'Ashley' at Quarry will fit and it's included in the cost, hence why I've asked about 100% confirming that. The coding/electrics side of things nowadays is much easier nowadays, but still requires a specialist that knows about this with experience and knowledge. Deepan, it's over to you - please do confirm if that fitting is or isn't included! Cheers, Dennis!
  19. Hi Deepan, In the advert, it also reads their staff will be on hand to advise you. Once you purchase the parts/engine, you'll need to arrange delivery to your workshop/home and begin the work. To me it reads that as you do that, they will help you where they can. Have you had a quote in writing that 'Ashley' will do the work on their premises and the price of £3995+VAT also includes the fitting/conversion process ? The last time I spoke to Quarry Motors it didn't include this, so maybe it has changed? I've done quite a bit of research and got quotes for an S62 swap into an facelift/later E39 Touring that was originally a petrol variant, if it was a Diesel, there's extra costs in terms of the fuel lines to be changed and I think the fuel tank/pumps etc. Assuming for now, the Quarry Motors price of £3995+VAT (£4800 ish) is just the parts/engine, then other parts needed for a nice/good/convincing conversion would be; custom exhaust with the quad tailpipes made in Stainless Steel and no or small rear silencers and to include the modifying of the battery side floorpan to make space for the small silencers/ straight pipe/ tailpipes, uprated suspension kit including changing the rear air suspension to springs/shocks or suitable coilovers, at the very least putting in the oem M5 brakes setup but ideally, an uprated BBK, then ensuring all the electrical connections for the S62 ECU to 'talk' properly to the existing non S62 setup ( when this conversion was first done 8/9 + years ago, a massive hassle was getting the S62 ECU to understand there was a rear wash/wipe function!) so on a similar level, you'd need to cut/extend the S62 loom for the extra length of a Touring for the rear lamp cluster. There's a few more aspects for the electrics/wiring as well depending on how much you want to 'swap in'. With some aspects to be done separately, I've had labour only quotes of between £5-6K and other quotes where all is done ranging from £8K to £16K. The £16K amount was where I take the S62 bits and a suitable recipient Touring and come back perhaps 8-10 weeks later to a conversion that looks like it came out from BMW themselves with a guarantee/warranty with them (obviously not as comprehensive as a BMW one of course, but still very substantial). If you look for the price of those other parts needed, you can then see just how quickly costs can escalate. If you can DIY various aspects and can get mates rates for specific areas then you will save some money for sure, but it's still relatively expensive. Confirm with Quarry in writing if they include conversion costs in that advertised price If they do, I'd be interested too! Cheers, Dennis!
  20. Hi Dan, Here's a pic of them; two have a production date of 26/3/02 and the other pair have 13/3/02. All show 'Germany' and they have the same part number to them so I'll 'assume' they are OEM ones. Drop me a PM and can progress with you. Cheers, Dennis!
  21. Hi, Euro Car Parts are having an Easter Sale on now and the other day my Alternator gave up. Perfect reason to buy a brand new one and get the higher output 150A version for £103 after the discount code applied! Once I collected it, it was fitted within a few hours Cheers, Dennis!
  22. Hi Dan, I have 4 sensors here that came with a front bumper I purchased recently that I have no use for as I don't have the PDC function on my car. I don't know if they're genuine ones, how do I tell?! assume a BMW part number on them? (I'll remove and take a look). I also can't test them either. Can sort something out with you for all 4 so doubles your chances of success? Cheers, Dennis!
  23. Hi, Do have a search around here as I do remember an excellent post, with detailed pictures and a great level of description/step by step procedures on how to add a reversing camera to the oem monitor/GPS based multimedia setup. Hopefully it's still around. From what I remember, it's relatively fiddly to do but manageable if you are confident with running wires, removing trim and finding/making the right connections etc on cars. Cheers, Dennis!
  24. Hi This post will soon be moderated as it's a thinly disguised for sale advert! I suggest paying the £10 forum fee for Gold membership which then allows you to post a good for sale advert with pictures. Alternatively, you can list the car for what you think it's worth on Ebay, AutoTrader, Gumtree, Pistonheads etc. Cheers, Dennis!
  25. The middle shelf usually is where the Whisky is kept, but every so often get's jigged around if there's been a party! A bottle of Hibiki was indeed here some months back! it was rather quickly poured out one evening, so I'll need to get another bottle quite soon! I really wanted to nip over for this weekend but alas couldn't make it so will have to be next time! Cheers, Dennis!