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whiskychaser

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Everything posted by whiskychaser

  1. MOT reminder

    Possibly the last in the world to find out about this. But if you don't know already, you can now get an email or text reminder that your MOT is going to expire a month before it does. And you get a further reminder two weeks before it expires. https://www.gov.uk/mot-reminder
  2. MOT reminder

    I am stockpiling pocket diaries with the little pencil in them
  3. So I been caught speeding :(

    Not related to your fine but as you live in Leeds, a simple question for you. Have you noticed the speed limit in the road works around J46 of the M1? That section also has cameras and I wonder if the sign writers were told a different story from the people who set the speed cameras.
  4. Auto Transmission on a 1997 BMW E39 523i

    A5S310Z is what BMW call the 5HP18. The Z means it is made by ZF and the 5 means it is 5 speed . The R at the end of A4S270R means it is made by GM and the 4 means it is 4 speed.
  5. MOT reminder

    Have just received my first notification advising that the MOT on her car has expired. OK, I knew that anyway but it does show that the system works
  6. When you can't afford a supercar

    Make sure the sound if on before playing https://www.facebook.com/rrggroup/videos/10155183361154506/
  7. Freezer problem

    My main concern was that the stuff in the freezer was not thawing out and then refreezing. But I don't think that is the case. So I am more than happy it is working again - if the wife had her way, I would be £1K down! I think understanding how something works is half the battle in fault finding. So apologies for my somewhat pedestrian approach. The help and advice received has been invaluable
  8. Freezer problem

    Received some sound advice here a while back and hoping for some more We have a Beko CDA751 which seems to work fine but does not self defrost. So it clogs up with ice and doesn't work properly. I changed the door seal but still having issues. Defrosted it last night and found: Resistance on the drain heater: 2.08k Resistance on the heated attached to the 'element' itself : 260 ohms (forgot what you call the actual radiator-like thing) The temp stat is an ELTH 261N. Two blue wires in and two white out. The blues seem to be connected but the white ones are not. I did not get continuity when checking across the sensor them but that is probably because it was too warm. Freezer kicked right up as soon as I plugged it in and it was -18 within a couple of hours. A one litre bottle of water froze solid in 12 hours. Temp this morning was -21C I understand that the timer board clocks how long the compressor has run and then switches on the heater. With the above in mind, I am concluding that the board isn't working. I don't mind taking a punt on a new board - or anything else for that matter. It has to be cheaper than the £1K replacement she has in mind!
  9. Freezer problem

    Well, it does seem to be working fine. I use a small digital thermometer to check the air temperature and a laser heat thermometer to check the temperature of meat in the freezer. They both read -27 so maybe I have it set a bit low. I find it a bit odd that the ice cubes only read -15 but can live with that Many thanks for all the help
  10. Freezer problem

    The new timer came today The freezer didn't kick up straight away so I set about testing the old timer. Didn't matter how many times I turned it manually, I could not get a connection from the live terminal to the heater terminal. Took it apart and while the contacts looked fine, the cam part looked worn. I moved the gears around a bit and reassembled it but the connection was hit and miss at best. Curiosity satisfied, I binned it After about ten minutes, the freezer kicked in and the temp went down to about -23. A while later, I noticed it had stopped running and the temp had risen to -13. It didn't get any warmer than that but I thought the temp was supposed to be -18 or lower all the time? Meanwhile, the litre bottle of water has gone back in the freezer and we will see what that looks like in the morning
  11. Freezer problem

    Should have the timer in a few days. The stat may take a bit longer. Will certainly post how it goes Thanks again
  12. Freezer problem

    I got up this morning and the fridge was not running. Checked the temperature inside and it was too high. So I advanced the timer one click and it fired right up. So I think it does point to the timer Will get the parts ordered and post how it turns out. Many thanks for all the help
  13. Freezer problem

    Really appreciate the help and think we are getting somewhere. Having left it alone for a while, I plugged it in again. The fan ran normally and when I opened the freezer door, it sounded like it was running faster. Using a laser temp gun, I let the stat attached to the 'element' reach about -20. I checked for continuity and still got none I turned the timer listening for clicks and they all sounded equally loud. But after about 4 clicks, the fan stopped. I touched both heaters and they were both getting warm. In fact, after a minute or so I couldn't keep my hand on the main one on the 'element' So it is pretty clear that the heaters work but it is a matter of control. I think I need a new stat and a new timer, particularly as the latter should have been changed already. A reasonable conclusion?
  14. Freezer problem

    I checked with Beko some time ago and quoted them the serial number. They assured me it was not subject to the recall and was safe. But this looks like a mechanical timer to me! : I emptied the freezer in readiness for checking if the heaters came on when I turned the switch. But the fan didn't kick in and has not since. I turned the switch one click and the heaters didn't warm up. Have pulled the plug for now on the assumption that crl+alt+del may work with fridge freezers too
  15. Freezer problem

    There is probably a board in the fridge near the light but from pics I have seen, I think it just contains the main temp control potentiometer. The freezer is coming on so that seems to be working just fine. As I understand it, the grey stat 'makes' at -3 to -20c. So I am concluding that it is that which tells the timer to start counting. What I don't know is if power is supplied to the heaters from the timer or elsewhere. Which is where the wiring diagram would come in. Will have to keep looking
  16. Freezer problem

    Yep. I unplugged the heater and drain heater and the resistances are as above. They are not open or short circuit but without a reference I am guessing they are fine. The grey box clipped on says: ELTH Made in Luxembourg _10 (3) _ -20T80K 250 K-II Type 261N So I am guessing that coming up to -20C it will cut out. At what stage the heater is turned on is another thing. It occurs to me that the box at the back is just a defrost timer. I'm wondering if there is a main PCB somewhere else. Need to find a wiring diagram ...
  17. Freezer problem

    Yep. A wiring diagram would help but I can't find one :( There is a socket inside the freezer and all the leads simply plug into that. So you can't see where they go. We have had the freezer since new. The timer is in a box at the back of the freezer so is easy to get at. There is no 'force defrost' on this freezer so my problem is finding out when it is switching the heater(s) on
  18. 520i auto

    I can find 520i se but no trace of a 520i ss
  19. 520i stuck with a D

    I'd suggest you have a fault with the shift position switch. For a more precise answer, you need to supply more details as pointed out above
  20. Rear Mud Flap Mounting

    Try part no. 72608102996 for the fronts and 72608102199 for the rears but they are no longer available. The mounting kits are listed along with the flaps but there are no drawings for them on realoem. I only have pics of the mudflaps fitted to the car but this might help: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2344066-FS-BMW-E34-Mud-Flaps-Schmutzfanger-(NOS
  21. Tyre sizes

    +1. I have 225 40 18 on the front and 255 35 18 on the rear. Pressures according to the sticker on the door post are 2.4 and 2.9 bar. Which is 35 and 42 in old money. It is a sport and the ride is quite firm PS Handbook confirms above pressures
  22. How dead is this engine?

    As above. The bore might clean up and you can always check them all with a new ring and a feeler gauge. Not sure if you could give it a light hone or have it bored out very slightly and fit oversized rings. That is assuming water hasn't got into the big ends too. Might be easier just dropping in another engine?
  23. Gaining access to car

    FWIW, unlike the video, my handbook does not specify which door to use so I would try both: ''Opening: lift the handle plate, turn the key in the opening direction beyond the pressure point. To close again, turn the key beyond the central locking pressure point'' You will see that people have supplied power via the boot light. My experience was that it doesn't work with the battery disconnected. I left a rear door open after disconnecting mine and returned to find my father had locked it thinking it was an oversight on my part. Breaking into a car attracts sideways glances from your neighbours, even if it is your own car
  24. Gaining access to car

    Tried the emergency unlock procedure? : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1XQt4GowLGI
  25. Making up wiring looms - trailer

    I thought the resistors got quite hot so needed to be mounted on a metal surface? I wouldn't fancy chopping up the cable but would rather fit it inside the light unit if at all possible. Something like this?: https://www.westerntowing.co.uk/acatalog/load-ballast-resistor-for-LED-lights-EL3822B.html
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