hippie dave

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hippie dave last won the day on September 30 2013

hippie dave had the most liked content!

About hippie dave

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    I'm a country member
  • Birthday 03/19/1994

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    Tits, Beer, Cycling, Driving, Classic cars, Steam railways, aquisition of junk, setting things on fire, making noise in the workshop, camping/travelling, completely irrational and hare-brained schemes involving one or more of the above
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  • Garage
    '05 Saab 9-5 / '86 BMW 520i / '81 Honda CB125

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  1. Bottom one in your picture is definitely not an E28 item but the top one is. I would recommend polybushes if you have the money. they are £40-50 for an axle pair direct from powerflex and you can fit and forget. Quality of secondhand standard bushes on those arms varies - mine ate two sets in just as many years! I assume you are familiar with the installation procedure- ie don't tighten up the bush nut until you've loaded the suspension. regards Dave
  2. Good Job there. Can you tell me where the breather pipes go inside the tank? I attempted to de-solder what was left of the ones on mine with oxy acetylene, but the 1st and 3rd pipe broke off- they appeared to run on to somewhere inside the tank as opposed to terminate just inside the roof. I've ordered a new one from ECP but it seems a shame to bin my otherwise perfectly good tank because of this. thanks Dave
  3. Result. I have done a writeup on the sticky thread here:
  4. Because I want better access to weld the metal around the bolt, along with the inner sill. Thanks for the responses chaps. I am going to drill and tap the top of the bolt, then use an M12 or M16 bolt incorporating a spacer to pull it out. Two new nuts and bolts came to less than £15.
  5. Thanks chaps. Realoem lists them as still available for $7.80 apiece. Hence I have emailed Cotswold - fully expecting them, along with the assosciated nuts, not to be too dear. As a result its time to get medieval I think.
  6. How does one go about removing these, please? Car is currently on stands on the rear jacking points, minus its prop, exhaust, rear axle, diff, suspension turretts and fuel tank. I need to get these bolts out in order to gain access to make an effective repair to the floorpan and sills. The only soloution I can currently think of is, working inside the car, to drill and tap the top of the bolt; and insert another bolt. Then weld a puller to the reinforcing plate on the top and pull it out via the bolt head. Jacking it up with the weight of the car on the bolt is yielding no results. I've also left them soaking in WD40 for days now. Also- with the car in its current dismantled state, can anyone suggest a means of supporting it that isnt the rear jacking points? as it would be nice to weld these up in one fell swoop if possible Thanks. Dave
  7. I have had a go at this with a relative degree of success. Mine were stuck fast. Hammering, jacking, nothing was shifting them. I wanted to remove them to improve access for grinding and welding the entire region. I have devised a method of drilling and tapping the top of the bolt and making a very simple puller. Half an hour for both sides, no special tools required apart from drills/taps. Two new bolts and two new nuts come to £13.55 from cotswold and the part numbers are 33323628167 and 07129922745 respectively. I would personally have no qualms re-using my originals following this procedure (you could even weld the hole up if you wished) but new items are so cheap - hence I ordered them "just in case". You will need: BAttery drill ~5mm drill, 10.5mm drill, hammer and centre punch, M12 tap(s), cutting oil 40-50mm M12 bolt, M12 Hex nut, spacers and washers of some description. I used an oversize nut. Vacuum cleaner to clear swarf spanners/allen keys for all the above. First of all, assuming youve removed both sections of the rear seat, unbolt the seatbelt and gaff-tape the wiring out of the way. You dont want drilling swarf to interact with either. Vacuum it away as you go. Now centre punch the top of the bolt, and start drilling the pilot hole. 10-15mm deep will suffice. It doesnt have to be arrow-straight for the purposes of this exercise, but make it so as much as you can. Then take the hole out to the tapping size, in this case, 10.5mm for an M12 thread. I expect an M8 or an M10 would probably do, if desired. Slow speed, plenty of pressure, plenty of oil. be careful the drill doesn't snatch. Now Tap. Getting the tap to start straight is the difficult bit, it doesnt help that you cant get a t-bar tap wrench on the thing. I used the drill very very carefully to start it before using a one-armed wrench as pictured. Again, lots of oil, tapping technique here is quarter of a turn then back off to break the swarf. The bolt appears to be made from tough steel, and you do NOT want to break the tap as you'll never get it out. Its worth spending the money on a good quality item. Just three or four threads will suffice. NOw pull. Here is a picture of my makeshift puller. The rusty nut is oversize and acts as a spacer. Wind the bolt (puller) fully home into the thread you have just cut, incorporating the spacer and washers. Now tighten down the nut. This required some serious leverage.... And we've won!!!!! Please contact me through the usual channels if you would like to borrow the "puller". To the pub!!!
  8. Car is dads 07 plate VW touran. The 13 pin socket disintegrated as a result of water ingress so I am trying to fit another. I just need to know which cable connects to which number pin on the socket internals but an internet search has been fruitless, most of the diagrams I have found don't tie up with the cable colours I have on the car, so I wondered if anyone had access to a workshop manual or similar. the following are on the car- (Cable colour/trace): back/green black/white grey/black grey/red grey/white red/purple - this appears to be a switched live. blue/red Heavier duty: red/green - this appears to be a permanent live brown - Earth brown - Earth (theres two) I have tried switching on the ignition and each circuit in turn in order to obtain readings on a multimeter off each wire, but apart from what I've listed above the search was fruitless. Thanks in advance!! David
  9. Has anyone got any experience of repairing rust-holed corner sections and then having them re-chromed? I've got access to a TIG, hence I'm tempted to give this a go myself.
  10. I took it out again today. all fine up to 70 plus mph. There was a slight bit of wobble as I applied the brakes on the slip road slowing down from 70 once I reached about 50, which disappeared again. I've also had the front tracking checked and it is spot on. So god only knows why the tyre is feathered.
  11. Sorry to bring this up as I expect its been done to death by now, but this one has got me scratching my head. 1986 520i lux manual. Driving along a dual carriageway yesterday morning at around 50, car starts developing a wobble through the steering wheel. gets more and more violent over the course of about half a mile or so to the point I am almost certain something is about to let go. It was much much more severe than the front end shimmy typical of worn track control arm bushes (all the front suspension components are no more than five thousand miles old) The judder continued right up until the point I stopped the car and checked all the wheelnuts were tight, then looked at the front suspension/braking components as best I could and nothing was jumping out at me. I drove very carefully for the remaining two miles or so to work at no more than about 40, and it did not re-occur. After work I drove it 20 miles or so home (at speeds of up to 60) via my mates firm where I got all four wheels re-balanced, and at no point did it re-occur. We did notice that the front nearside tyre was scrubbing quite badly on the outer edge, so tracking is next on the list. I am just extremely curious as to why this was seemingly a one-off. Thanks Dave
  12. I don't check in here as often as I used to but I'd just seen this on facebook and wanted to offer my sincerest condolences to his Family and friends. I never met the guy but the tremendous effort he put into making our forum and our community what it is will be evident for a long time to come. I for one have made some great friends and contacts through this forum and have lost count of the number of times the great pool of knowledge has got me out the sh*t, and for that I am truly grateful. I would definitely like to make a donation to the chosen charity/memorial once the logistics of it have been finalised. With best wishes, Dave
  13. I've since put a new 'plate on, and cleaned and re greased the Calipers - going to try for an MOT tomorrow Sent from my D5503 using Tapatalk
  14. Happy Christmas Folks!! Hopefully going to get an MOT on this early next year. Took twice as long as I would've liked, but thats always the way with these things isn't it. Dented it in January. Bought a skoda Felicia as a stop-gap which I decided was terrible. Replaced said stop-gap in April with a cheap(ish) Alfa romeo, which was intended to be a slightly more permanent fixture. It did dawn on me however that I was spending a disproportionate amount of time underneath that thing just to keep it on the road, while the poor old Beem was gathering moss at the back of the driveway. So that was punted on, and I'm now borrowing my mothers VW polo to blat to and from work in. I did all the prepping of the front slam panel myself, in addition to panel-beating, filling and flatting the bonnet. The intention was to paint it myself before the weather closed in, but I decided I was biting off far more than I could chew for a first spray-job, so I Farmed it out to C&N Auto's in Didcot, with the help of Alan (Tommo) and His trusty trailer. I'm dead chuffed with the results. C&N's also did a great job of the front valance, one good one of which was painstakingly welded up by myself out of two, shortly before I discovered that someone is bashing said valances out for less than £100! The weather has made it more difficult lately to spend any time outside on the thing, and as a result I have some very shiny lights, grilles, etc ready for fitment.
  15. Thanks Chaps!! Looks like I've buggered about and failed to sort this for too long- The battery tray (41 11 1 875 009) is now out of stock according to cotswold. Does anyone have one lying around or otherwise know where I can get one? I don't mind if its non-genuine, even a serviceable one off another car would do, but I'd prefer not to have to scratch-build one (again) if I can avoid it. thanks! Dave