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Everything posted by RichardP

  1. So, at last, after the best part of a year, I finally have my M1 at home! After keeping my eye out for a long time for an M1 I found one in July last year that looked like it fitted the bill. As with many M1’s the car history is not fully known, but it was first supplied by BMW leasing to an address in Munich in 1980 and from there found its way to Switzerland from where it was imported to the UK, but not registered, in 2011. Mechanically the car is in very good condition, there are some cosmetic rubber components that are not 100%, but replacements for most M1 parts are very difficult to find. The engine is not the original, the engine number on the block does not match up with the number it should, it’s not even the correct format! However, it appears that the engine is of a higher performance than standard. There was a company that tuned M1 engines, it’s possible that this is one of these. The car was also fitted with a stainless steel silencer. The car was originally white, at some point had been painted silver and then painted white again. The last repaint was done by a company that specialised in building luxury fibre glass yachts and they have done a very good job of painting the fibre glass body. The interior was originally black leather and cloth but, possibly when painted silver, had been re-trimmed in red leather with red carpets. I believe that the dash had also been covered red, but this had been reverted to black because of reflections on the windscreen. The interior had been done very well, but I wanted to return it to as close to original as possible. Also, the way the carpet had been done it was difficult to use the accelerator without hitting the brake, unless you had very narrow feet!! This is what it looked like when I bought it. Sourcing the materials required to restore it to its original appearance took much, much longer than I anticipated. The seat cloth is unique to the M1 but I managed to find a source in Germany and bought 4 sq m plus a genuine roof panel which is covered in the same material (the roof had been covered red too). The leather used in the M1 has finish that is difficult to replicate, you can get close but not exactly the same using widely available leather. Again I managed to source some of the original leather, a total of 18 sq m was needed, 4 full hides. I also found a genuine new hand brake lever and handle and a new gear knob. The backs of the seats are covered in a black tweed like cloth, this proved very difficult to find something that looked identical and impossible to find the original material. Eventually I managed to find some material that was a pretty close match. The carpets turned out to be very frustrating. There are 9 pieces of carpet, two floor pieces, 2 wheel arch pieces, two pieces down each side of the transmission tunnel (4 in all) and a piece at the back. I managed to find 5 genuine pieces of the 9 pieces required, but the material is impossible to replicate. In the end I had to settle for a reasonable colour match high quality carpet, it’s probably much better quality than the original, but I was a little disappointed that I could not use the genuine stuff. Other miscellaneous parts that were required were a replacement radio (which currently does not work!), a brand new set of original floor mats (which need to be fastened down somehow as they currently slide right under the pedals!), a genuine replacement rear silencer and twin black tail pipes, replacement rear window seal, black flock finish centre cubby hole (the original had been covered red), leather covered ash tray, a genuine rear ///M1 decal (from the USA), new wheel centre caps with the old BMW logo and I even found an original unused M1 English instruction manual. I also found a genuine new mph speedometer, the original kph speedometer rear just 5055 when replaced, I don’t know if this is the original, it may have been replaced when the engine was replaced. A selection of hoses and gaskets and other odds and ends were obtained from BMW classic, I wasn’t sure if they would be needed or not but though it best to start building a spares bank just in case! I collected the car from Munich Legends on 1st July after they had given it a thorough inspection. I drove it to a Shell garage and back to fill up with V-Power, just enough to get the car good and hot. We then did a final inspection on the ramps to check for any leaks, remarkably there was nothing at all, dry as a bone, the ML techs said they had never seen an M1 with no leaks! I left ML to drive the car home just after midday, you might remember that 1st July was a rather hot day, my route took me clockwise round the M25 past Heathrow where the recorded temperature reached 36.7C! I was a little apprehensive to say the least, the temperature on the motorway was probably significantly higher, but the car did not miss a beat over the 275 mile trip. The air con is rather rudimentary, but it did its job, just! I’ve had the car up on ramps again since I got home, still pretty much bone dry, just a very small amount of sweating from a couple of places. Things left to do include: - Repair the radio - Repair the clock, some of the illuminated elements don’t work. - Find a way to anchor the floor mats. - Find a way to secure the spare wheel, there were two designs, the one that matches the main wheels can’t be fastened down using the supplied bolt! - Find a replacement left front indicator, it has a small crack, part NLA. - Find a replacement right window guide, it has a small cut, part NLA. - Find as many spare parts as possible! Finally, here are a couple of pictures as she is now, I'll add some more detailed pictures later.
  2. There weren't! Just a leg of lamb and some flowers, and not for very long.
  3. On 11th March 2003 E39 M5 reg AK03 DJJ was first registered in the UK by Sycamore BMW of Peterborough, 14 years ago today. I've posted quite a few threads in various places about my M5, but there has never been a single thread that's covered my ownership of the car. Quite a lot of information has been lost on various forums that have died, BMW Land and M5 Torque being two that come to mind. This forum too seemed to come pretty close too due to the tragic death of Darren last year. So I thought I'd try and document my ownership from scratch in one place rather than start another thread about things that I've done recently, it seemed a fitting day to start the task. CB37514 was built on 15 October 2002, so she was probably sitting around in the showroom at Sycamore for several months before being registered as one of the few 03 plate E39 M5s in the UK. There have been 4 former keepers, Sycamore being the first, Lord Edward James Russell being the 4th. I first saw the car for sale at Hexagon of Highgate in September 2008, the advertised price was, for that time, very high at just under £24,000 for a 40,000 mile car. I actually ruled it out as being too expensive. I was trying to sell an early E60 535d that had belonged to my father, it was 3 years old and had only done a little over 7,000 miles. The E60 was an odd spec. a non Sport 535d in Chiaretto Red with grey interior, no Bluetooth but a HUD. It was not a good time to be trying to sell a slightly odd car! I'd looked around locally and the best offer I'd had was under £10k. I considered keeping the car myself, but after doing a couple of trips decided that I could not live with the soft suspension, auto 'box and the E60 styling. I though, why not see what Hexagon would offer against their expensive E39 M5. To my amazement, they offered me just under £18k without even seeing the car. As the effective price was now only £16k the M5 suddenly went from expensive to very good value. A trip to Hexagon and an inspection and test drive in the M5 soon lead to a deal being done. I collected the car from Hexagon on 28 November 2008, a rather chilly day with a little snow at home on my return. So began my ownership of an E39 M5!
  4. After sorting out the last known issue with the E39 M5 and it being a clear sunny day, I took the M1 out for the first time this year. Just a short trip to Sainsburys to get some stuff for the week end, just to get things warmed up and then check for any leaks afterwards. Quick dust down and hoover out too. Also did a test fit of the ///M floor mats. I'm glad I have them, but actually prefer the other mats that I have. The other mats fit better and are much harder wearing, the ///M mats are not a very attractive shade of pale grey which doesn't really fit with the rest of the interior. I wish I knew the history behind the ///M mats, I don't believe that they are a genuine BMW part, but they are obviously made specifically for the M1.
  5. Emissions air pump mounts and bracket replaced so that's nice and secure now. A/C re-gassed as i noticed it wasn't blowing cold. The system was checked and found to have no gas at all! However it held pressure perfectly and once re-gassed blows really cold. I can only assume that the gas escaped while the engine was out and it was never refilled, a bit naughty but at least I now know that everything is working as it should. First time in a long long time, maybe even since I bought it, that I can't think of any work that needs doing! Just need to drive it now.
  6. Yes. However you need something pretty beefy as the resistance of the bulb on cold check is pretty low. Ironically, the most efficient thing to use is a small bulb!!
  7. More likely an interaction in the LCM detecting the current taken by the combination of HIDs and LEDs vs Halogens and LEDs, enough to tip it over the threshold.
  8. The LCM is detecting a blown side light bulb, when this happens it illuminates the indicator to give some sort of side light until the bulb is fixed.
  9. I think it's to aid cooling of the outer wall (the tips are double skinned) and to let out any condensation that might get in between the skins (I also think there is a gap about 2 inches into the tips)
  10. I have one, but it's pretty subtle, especially as it's a 63 plate anyway, and I don't think anyone has yet detected it as a personalised plate without any prior prompting. I just got it because it was available, cheap and a little nerdy! If the spacing was M S63T GC it might be more noticeable; if you're a geek and know the designation for the engine in the M6 Gran Coupe! If I could afford to and it was available, I'd not say no to 'M 1' on my M1. Apparently it was sold for £331,500 in 2006!
  11. As it's been more than 6 years since the full respray, looking at the playing card reflections made me think it would be interesting to do the same thing again and compare various parts of the car. Back in 2011, as all the car had been done at the same time, the finish was very uniform. Since then the boot lid and both front doors have been replaced, the bonnet repainted (twice!) and the bonnet covered in a clear wrap. So, how do those areas compare with parts of the paint untouched since 2011? I rummaged through my draws to find the same playing card I'd used in 2011. Unfortunately the weather was not quite so good as when the original pictures were taken, so the car is inside under LED lights rather than outside in the sunshine. First, the areas that have not been touched, the same areas that were pictured previously The roof The rear wing They look pretty much the same, pretty flat, still nice and shiny! How about the passenger side front door, replaced in June 2013 due to corrosion on the seams. the boot lid, done at the same time as the passenger door. or the drivers door, replaced October 2014 due to the same issue as the passenger door and finally, the bonnet. Repainted both in 2013 and 2014 (in 2014 it was taken back to bare metal again) then covered with clear protective film. You can definitely see the slight texture of the film, not so much in the reflection of the playing card, but in the reflection of the out of focus bottom edge of the wall cupboards. Overall though, still a pretty consistent texture and finish. I'm pretty happy with that.
  12. Higher values give fuel consumption readings that are lower. So if your car is optimistic (and they almost all are!) then increase the number. 1050 sounds about right.
  13. They are all very different, and in different ways. In a straight line, the M6 will leave the M5 for dead, it's much, much faster. The M6 is also a better motorway mile muncher, not that the M5 is bad, the M6 just makes it effortless. In the twisties, there is probably not a lot in it, the M6 is heavier but has slightly wider tyres. Tech wise, the M6 is obviously better, the HUD especially is fantastic as is the surround view (although I wish there was a front camera as there is in the i8), Nav is more modern, the iDrive system has matured and is very easy to use and navigate. Practicality, the M5 probably just wins, the boot is theoretically slightly smaller, but the opening and shape are more useful. Rear head room in the M6 is slightly less, but leg room more. Comfort, not much in it. Once the M6 seats are adjusted correctly they are great. The M5 seats are very good to and with less adjustment somehow easier to get right. The DCT in the M6 is great if you're on a track or in stop start traffic, you can just be lazy and the auto part does a great job. You can get a little more involvement using manual mode, but it still doesn't have the degree of involvement that using a clutch and manual gear lever do. For manoeuvring, especially reverse hill starts the DCT and electric hand brake combination is shit, just bloody hard to control. There is so much power and the way it engages meany you have to almost instantly get the throttle pedal position just right. Not enough and you roll forwards, too much and you wheel spin backwards. Same in snow, the M5 gives much better usable traction. The steering in the M5 (especially now it's back to normal after changing the servotronic valve) gives much more feedback than the steering in the M6. It feels like there is a lot of rubber between the steering wheel and the track rods in the M6. This dampens vibrations etc. but it also limits feedback so it's relatively numb. The whole experience in the M6 is more 'remote' than the M5, if you had no speedo you could easily be doing 130 in the M6 and think it was 70. From a visibility point of view, which includes parking and placing the car accurately on a track or down a narrow lane with oncoming traffic the M5 wins hand down. Both are big cars, but the M5 feels much smaller to drive. In the M6 you're lower down, the lowest seat position on the M5 is about the same as the highest on the M6. This makes it more difficult to judge the front of the car. The A pillars are much wider in the M6, they will undoubtedly give better strength but they hamper visibility especially in conjunction with the door mirrors. The combination create a very significant blind spot looking at about 1 to 2 o'clock, just where you need to look to judge the curb. I've never curbed a wheel on the M5, in the first year of owning the M6 I curbed 3, although now I'm more used to it I've not done another since. The M1, that's a different ball game. It always feels special to drive, not because the interior is plush, it's quite austere, but because of the history of the car and the engine just behind your head. It's about as fast as the M5, probably would corner much better if you pushed it, which I haven't! It's surprisingly easy and comfortable to drive, the possible exception being the tweed like material of the seats which must be one of the best thermal insulators known to man, if it's hot, your back and bum get very warm indeed. Bottom line, they all feel epic, in their own unique way. The M6, it looks fantastic and goes like shit of a shovel, there are not many cars you're likely to come across on the roads that could live with it. But at the same time you can drive 300 miles, collect your slightly nervy mother and father-in-law and drive the 300 miles back to be home by lunch time. I did that when they planned to drive up for my sister-in-laws wedding the day before, got a phone call very early in the morning saying they had set off as planned and then lost their bottle, turned round and gone back home. Obviously they had to attend their own daughters wedding, so I just went and got them! The M5 is probably the most 'normal' car, it does everything very well, but does not excel at anything. It's fast, but not ballistic. It handles well, but would be left for dead by any number of small nimble sports cars. It does not stand out, to many people it's just an old 5 series. It's got a big boot and can seat 5 in comfort. I took my son to University for the first time in it, 5 up and all his crap in the boot, no problem at all, it would have been possible in the M6, but a bit of a squeeze for the occupant of the middle rear seat. The M1, it's a bloody M1! Every time you go out in it you get looks. Almost every time you fill up at the petrol station someone wants to talk about it, "You don't see many of those about". But I'd really not want to use it as my daily driver. It's the oldest. It has the most character. It needs respect as it has no power steering, no ABS, no traction control, no air bags, no seat belt tensioners. It's raw, but surprisingly civilised, drive from North Yorkshire to Munich, about 1000 miles, in two days, no problem.
  14. Pretty much up to date now, so roll back to late 2012. I took the M5 on a track day organised by the BMW car club, the first attempt in September was very wet. Managed to get a couple of laps in, not even one full flying lap, then it was cancelled. Got a couple of stills from inside the car and the Car Club photographer took a couple as I went round. Waiting in the pit lane The view from outside and inside several people doing this caused the day to be cancelled The second attempt was in November, it was a clear cold day and the track was still wet and very slippery. Car Club photographer pictures And a video of a session with an instructor Despite the weather it was bloody good fun. Although it's a big heavy car it was pretty good on the wide open spaces and long straits of Silverstone. The brakes were pretty much shot afterwards though, they picked up a vibration that didn't go until the disks were changed.
  15. If you can find the codes for controlling the level, I can see what would be involved in adding it.
  16. The welcome message is designed as a one off, once it goes, it goes! The Intravee just sends the message once, it's the existence of other messages that clear it. It should disappear as soon as there is any other cluster display activity. I'm pretty sure the phone capability of the cluster is disabled if a system message is displayed on the cluster, however I'd have expected the cluster message to clear as soon as you turn the ignition on anyway. I've never tried controlling the ride height of the RR, I'm pretty sure it's possible as I think there are (or used to be) other modules that could be used to control it. However, I don;t know the iBus codes that need to be used. It's possible that an iBus log of adjusting the ride height might include the codes, it depends how they have been implemented.
  17. Story of the day. I've noticed that the steering weight has not been changing for some time when using Sport mode, it should get noticeably heavier. More recently I think the steering has been becoming heavier too, but that might just be comparing it to the M6. I read the codes with my Peake reader and low and behold code 74 came up, this means that the resistance of the Servotronic valve, or Servotrinoc Torque Converter as BMW call it, has become too low and thus the required current too high. The DME logs a fault and it enters fail safe mode which is low assistance. Decided to give it a go myself, bought the valve via Cotswold and got the car up on my diddy ramps, gives about 35 cm space under the car which is just enough but rather tight. First job is to remove the under tray, you can then just see the valve which is on the bottom of the steering box facing the rear. Remove the heat shield, just 3 bolts Then spray loads and loads of penetrating oil at it and left it over night, then sprayed more penetrating oil on it. You need to undo two of the 4 bolts, looking at the new part you can see which ones The two bolts need a 2.5mm Allen key, which is really small for something that's likely to be pretty well corroded up. I used a pin to clean as much dirt as possible from around the bolt and in the hole. Access is not easy, but there is actually a surprising amount of space for your hands etc. You can get your hands in from the front while looking from the rear. This is the wrench setup that I found worked best 2.5mm Allen key on 1/4 drive with universal joint, then 1/4 extension to 3/8 adaptor, 3/8 universal to 3/8 extension and ratchet. This enables you to get a good purchase on the bolts. First one, top left, came out using a fair bit of force, but without drama. The second one, bottom right. did this to my Allen key And stripped the hole in the bolt. At this point I could say that I then did x-y-z and got the bolt out. But to come clean, the car was booked into the local dealership for the drivers air bag recall, so I asked them to do it! The 'book' method for replacing the valve is to drop the sub frame which is about 8 hours including the realignment that has to be done afterwards. I said if you can't get it out in 1/2 an hour leave it. My backup plan was to use a flexible drill shaft to get access to drill it out, if that failed then it would have to be a sub frame off job. The garage hammered in a small Torx bit, easier for them to do due to my restricted working space, and got it off. They fitted the new valve and the tiny filter that come with it, they said that the hardest part was getting the old filter out. The steering is now back as it should be, it's now lighter in Sport mode than it was and there is a noticeable difference between Sport mode and normal. The new air bag looks almost identical to the old one. I can't find any pictures that show it, but the roundal in the middle of the old air bag had a very slight imperfection at the top. This was the same in my previous E46's with the same wheel so it wasn't just a one off defect. The new one does not have the imperfection.
  18. Yeah, I don't think there would really be any point in selling it now. Too much effort has gone into it and with the miles (114,400 now) it would never pay back what it owes. Still some things to do, all three of the mounts for the emissions air pump are broken, so the pump is just hanging in the bracket. BMW wanted £12.72 + VAT each for them. found some replacements that look pretty much identical for £3.99. The broken mount I'm currently waiting for a replacement bracket as the existing one is pretty badly corroded. The base of the mounts and nuts were rusted on and took some persuasion to get off! I've had a go at the exhaust tips too. They have been bugging me for ages. The system is stainless steel, but its plated with quite a thin layer. If you look in the picture in the second post of the closeup of the exhaust, you can see that the plating is starting to fail at the bottom of the tip. As the years went by this got worse, much worse. Cleaning the tips made them look worse. The only solution, other than replacing the rear silencers, was to totally remove the plating and take them back to bear stainless. The company that did the Ceramic Coating go most of it off, I did some extra polishing. This is the best I've got so far. The final part of the paint protection after the Ceramic Coating was to have a clear wrap on the bonnet, wings, front bumper, headlights and fog lights. This is the same type of wrap as I have one the M6, it's done a good job on the M6 and is pretty much invisible unless you look really closely.
  19. Wow, our very own forum!
  20. After Market.
  21. 2016 saw little action, partially because I was more than a little preoccupied with my M1! In fact, I was seriously considering selling the car and exchanging it for something low mileage that would possibly appreciate over time with just a little use, I looked at a 5,000 mile 1M. However I decided to take the M5 out for a bit of a drive and it reminded me just how good it is. I thought I'd better make sure that the chassis was in first class condition. Over the summer I'd has a good look underneath, the break pipes were starting to go and the fuel vent pipe on the left side was getting really quite bad. So, plan of action. First, after the respray the paint was really quite soft. Carbon Black shows every mark anyway, but when it's soft it's really very hard to keep looking good. I decided that a Ceramic Coating would help prevent minor scratches so I had 10 coats applied. Ceramic Coatings are no magic bullet, but in effect it's like having a harder topcoat applied. It certainly makes water bead on it that's for sure! Next, I wanted to get the underside sorted. That meant taking off the exhaust, dropping the fuel tank and rear sub frame, removing all the heat shields and seeing what it looked like. Answer, not pretty! Fortunately, it had just about been caught in time, removal of the rust and old under seal (where it had been) started Followed by treetment of the remaining rust, priming and coating with 2 pack Epoxy underseal Brake pipes, the vent pipe and various clips were also replaced. Then I'd noticed small puffs of blue smoke on startup after sitting for some time. So, time for valve stem seal replacement and a de-coke. Out with the engine and off with the heads! Some cylinder wall scoring was evident, but it apparently looks worse than it is The heads were bead blasted to get rid of any carbon build up in the airways and the valves re-lapped. Another aim was to remove the headers and race cats and return to stock. I really don't want to have the hassle of nursing it through the MOT emissions check any more. Parts for the engine work Head Gasket 11 12 7 833 733 Head Gasket 11 12 7 833 734 2 Off Head Bolt set 11 12 7 583 115 4 Off Torx Bolt set 11 23 1 402 618 Head Set 11 12 1 407 805 Gasket Set 11 12 1 407 804 Dowel 11 12 1 726 241 Rail 11 31 1 406 366 8 Off O-Ring 13 54 1 406 352 4 Off ASA Bolt 11 23 1 402 618 Pulley 32 42 1 406 769 Bracket 13 41 7 830 580 6 Off Clutch Bolt 07 11 9 906 045 Oil Filter 11 42 7 510 717 3 Off Anti Freeze 1500ml 83 51 2 355 290 and the headers, pipes etc. Header Cylinder 1 & 3 11 62 1 407 929 Header Cylinder 2 & 4 11 62 1 407 642 Header Cylinder 5 & 6 11 62 1 407 643 Header Cylinder 7 & 8 11 62 1 407 644 Left bank Catalytic Converter 18 30 1 406 812 Right bank Catalytic Converter 18 30 1 406 813 2 Off Clamp Bus 18 30 7 536 425 Pipe 34 32 6 755 316 Pipe 34 32 6 755 312 2 Off Brake Hose 34 30 1 165 190 4 Off Washer 34 30 1 163 613 2 Off Washer 37 13 1 114 028 Vent Pipe 16 12 2 228 834 2 Off Hose Clamp 16 12 1 180 240 Holder 16 12 1 155 064 4 Off Holder 16 12 1 182 666 4 Off Holder 34 32 1 162 455 Tube Clamp 18 30 1 407 091 Support 18 30 1 408 017 4 Off Hex Bolt 07 11 9 905 394 Tube Clamp 18 30 1 407 091 Reinforcement 41 11 2 695 495 Pipe 21 52 1 162 116 Pipe 16 13 2 228 831 2 Off Holder 34 32 1 162 878 2 Off Holder 34 32 6 855 500 2 Off Expanding Nut 63 17 1 367 868 2 Off Washer 37 13 1 114 028 Damp Rubber 16 11 1 183 136 16 Off Nut 18 10 7 523 805 Brake Fluid DOT 4 5 Off Nut Body 51 48 1 954 066 4 Off Expanding Nut 63 17 1 367 868 Exhaust Bolt Knurled 11 62 1 704 717 4 Off Exhaust Bolt 11 62 1 716 352 4 Off Nut 18 10 7 523 805 5 Off Speed Nut 8 Off Counter sunk screw Bulb with socket 63 12 6 904 048 Cover 12 52 1 702 103 The headers and cats were second hand, they cost a fortune new!
  22. Close inspection late in 2014 revealed that the front drivers side door was going the same way as the passenger side. A replacement was fitted and the bonnet taken back to bear metal again and repainted. At the same time the rear bumper skin was replaced, there were a couple of bits and pieces that could not easily be fixed on the original although most people would not have noticed! In early 2015 I finally got round to taking off the enclosure with the slim subs and replaced them with new M-Audio subs. Despite what people may say, IMO the M-Audio subs are quite decent, it's the DSP amp that's lacking. The subs are powered by the Alpine PDX amp that was used before. When attempting to change the break fluid it was found that 3 of the 4 bleed nipples were seized. As there was a bit of vibration of the disks anyway, the disks, pads and calipers were changed. The rear MID had also developed missing pixels, so it was replaced under warranty. Change Gearbox Oil 2 off Gearbox Oil MTF LT-201L 83 22 2 339 219 Brake Fluid 83 13 0 443 026 3 off Differential Oil 83 22 2 282 583 Replace Diff seals 2 off Screw plug 33 11 7 525 064 2 off Diff Output Shaft seal 33 10 7 510 289 Diff Input Shaft seal 33 12 1 213 949 Lock Plate 33 12 1 205 138 12 off Bolt 33 21 1 227 944 Replace front brake disks Front Brake Disk 34 11 2 282 803 Front Brake Disk 34 11 2 282 804 Replace rear brake disks Rear Brake Disk 34 21 2 228 801 Rear Brake Disk 34 21 2 228 802 Replace front brake pads Linings 34 11 2 282 556 Pad Sensor 34 35 2 229 018 4 off Bolt 34 11 1 123 072 Replace rear brake pads Rear brake pads 34 21 6 761 248 Pad Sensor 34 35 1 163 066 4 off Bolt 34 21 1 161 806 Replace brake callipers, handbrake shoes, blead system, replace fluid. Calliper 34 11 2 229 381 Calliper 34 11 2 229 382 Calliper 34 21 2 229 703 Calliper 34 21 2 229 703 6 off Reinforcement 33 21 2 283 013 Brake Shoe 34 41 6 761 293 Bolt 33 32 6 760 346 Rear Multifuction Display replaced under warranty 65 82 6 914 941 Entering the regional concourse at the BMW Car club event on fathers day at Harewood house resulted in first place. Entry at Gaydon in the national concourse brought me back down to earth, the E39 is a very big car to clean after a 175 mile drive the same day as judging in the morning, I came 4th.
  23. So, did the arrival of my M6 and retirement from daily duties mean the end of the story? Nope, although maybe the rate slowed down a little! I'd been looking for a set of rear child seats for the M5 for ages, in January 2014 a set from a regular 5 series came up on e-bay so I bought it. The seat needed totally recovering to match the M5 material with new cloth gaiters and carpet inserts. Of course I still have the original seat which can be refitted in a few minutes. As the car was not being used as much, it gave me time to give the engine a really good clean. The coil pack covers were sanded down and lacquered Before Comparison Close up Every jubilee clip I could get at was removed, cleaned, polished and refitted All the ancillaries were taken off and cleaned
  24. 2013 also saw some experimentation with arm rests. These are already covered on the forum here Autumn 2013 saw the arrival of my M6 Gran Coupe and thus retirement from use as my main car, mileage was now at 110,000. January 2014 started with a trip to CPC for some engine maintenance, VANOS rebuild etc. Another 'one or two' parts used. Lower Timing Case Gasket Steel 11 14 0 001 187 Shaft Seal 11 14 1 275466 Oil Pan Upper Part 2 Off O-Ring 39.34X2.62MM 11 13 7 830 114 2 Off O-Ring 38x2.5MM 11 13 7 830 113 2 Off O-Ring 37x2.5MM 11 13 7 830 112 2 Off O-Ring 20x2.5MM 11 44 1 406 693 O-Ring 18x2.5MM 11 42 1 741 129 O-Ring 21x2.5MM 11 42 1 406 872 Oil Pan Lower Part Oil Levelling Sensor 12 61 7 508 003 Cylinder Hear Attached Parts 2 Off Inlet Cam sensor 12 14 7 539 173 2 Off Outlet Cam sensor 13 62 7 796 054 4 Off O rings 12 14 1 748 398 Cylinder head Cover Gasket Cyl 1-4 11 12 0 001 269 Gasket Cly 5-8 11 12 0 001 278 6 Off Colar Screw 11 12 1 406175 20 Off Cap Nut x 20 11 12 1 747162 Crankcase-Ventilation/Oil Separator Oil separator Cyl 1-4 11 15 1 406 788 Oil separator Cyl 5-8 11 15 1 406 789 2 Off Gasket 11 15 1 406 790 Return Hose Cyl 1-4 11 15 1 407 344 Return Hose Cyl 5-8 11 15 1 406 902 Return Hose 11 15 1 406 900 Oil Pipe Outlet 11 15 1 407 310 Belt Drive-Vibration Damper Pulley 11 23 1 406 934 4 Off Torx Bolt 11 23 1 402 618 6 Off Hex bolt with washer 07 11 9 900 259 Cover 11 23 1 407 526 Belt Drive Water Pump/Alternator Ribbed v-belt 11 28 7 833 264 Belt tensioner 11 28 1 709 613 Adjusting pulley with lever 11 28 2 248 214 Belt Drive Climate Compressor Ribbed v-belt 11 28 7 833 266 Belt tensioner 11 28 1 745 545 Adjusting pulley with lever 11 28 1 407 520 Timing - Timing Chain Lower Timing Chain 11 31 1 407 052 Deflection Rail 11 31 1 406 366 Chain Tensioner 11 31 1 407 337 Chain Tensioner 11 31 14 06 261 Gasket Ring 07 11 9 963 355 Guide Rail 11 31 1 406 280 2 Off Bearing Bolt 11 31 1 745 409 Timing Chain Top 4 Off Gasket ring 07 11 9 963 072 4 Off Diaphram Spring 11 36 7 833 218 24 Off Hex Bolt 07 11 9 913 589 24 Off Fillister head screw 07 11 9 919 625 2 Off Chain 11 31 1 406 167 Chain Tensioner Cyl 1-4 11 31 1 406 165 Chain Tensioner Cyl 5-8 11 31 1 406 166 2 Off Gasket Ring 11 14 1 736 758 Cooling System-fan/fan coupling Fan coupling 11 52 7 830 486 Fan 11 blade 11 52 1 712 110 Pulley 11 51 1 406 933 Waterpump - Thermostat Coolant Pump 11 51 1 407 806 Double Temperature Switch 13 62 1 703 993 Colling System Water Hoses Water Hose 11 53 1 406 766 Water Hose 11 53 1 407 812 Water Hose 11 53 1 407 451 Temp Sensor 13 62 1 433 077 Covering Cap 12 51 1 742 836 Intake manifold, air collector upper part Profile gasket 11 61 1 406 657 4 Off O-Ring 10x2.5MM 11 61 1 406 747 Intake manifold, air collector lower part Gasket Flange Cyl 1-4 11 61 1 406 636 Gasket Flange Cly 5-8 11 61 1 406 637 Radiator/Expansion Tank Radiator 17 11 1 436 062 Expansion Tank 17 11 2 229 114 4 Off Hose Clamp 32 41 1 712 735 Vent Pipe 17 10 2 693 701 Exhaust steam hose 17 10 2 693 702 Fuel filter, pressure regulator Vacuum pipe 13 53 1 407 568 Vacuum pipe 13 53 1 407 717 Vacuum hose black 11 72 7 545 323 Throttle housing assembly 8 Off O Ring 13 54 1 406 352 16 Off Hex Nut with Plate 07 12 9 905 541 2 Off Throttle valve switch 13 63 7 840 383 4 Off Fillester head screw 13 54 1 726 918 Idle regul.valve/fuel tank vent valve T-Shape idle regulator valve 13 41 1 733 090 Fuel Tank Breather valve 13 90 7 830 766 16 off Hex Nut 07 12 9 946 353 5 Off Hose Clamp 07 12 9 952 113 Elbow Hose 13 41 1 406 829 Hose 13 41 7 830 411 12 Off O Ring 13 41 1 406 378 Vent Pipe 13 53 7 830 982 Support 13 41 7 830 580 Intake Silencer 2 Off Rubber grommet 13 71 1 742 771 2 Off Spacer 13 71 7 571 982 Water valve/Water hose 2 Off Hose Clamp 64 21 8 367179 Rear Axel Drive Securing Plate 33 12 1 205 138 Dustcover Plate 33 12 2 282 678 Shaft Seal 33 12 1 213 949 2 Off Dustcover Plate Large 33 13 1 213 713 2 Off Dustcover Plate Small 33 12 2 283 079 2 Off Shaft Seal 33 10 7 510 289 VANOS Gear rework VANOS unit overhaul Cylinder head VANOS 2 Off Gasket 11 36 1 406 838 10 Off Fillister head with washer 11 36 7 830 301 8 Off O Ring 11 36 7 830 828 8 Off O Ring 11 36 7 830 829 2 Off Washer 11 36 1 406 944 2 Off Lock Ring 07 11 9 934 749 2 Off O Ring 10x2mm 11 31 1 317 318 2 Off O Ring 25x2mm 11 36 1 406 377 2 Off O Ring 57x3mm 11 31 1 317 732 2 Off O Ring 85x2mm 11 36 1 406 868 2 Off O Ring 10x2mm 11 31 1 317318 2 Off O Ring 16x2mm 11 41 1 306082 VANOS Cylinder head mounting parts Hose Elbow 11 36 7 830 147 6.5L Mobil 1 0W-40 Wiper Motor 67 63 8 360 603 The wiper motor actually failed on my way to CPC, it started to rain shortly after I left home and the wipers did not work. I could get them working at full speed if I quickly moved the lever from stop to full in one switch action. The winding for intermittent and slow were shorted.
  25. Early 2013 heralded some serious Alcantara upgrades. First, the boot was trimmed in Alcantara. I always hated the awful material used in the M5 boot, it wears terribly and shows every mark. To complete the look the 'Titangrau Dkl' versions of the rear boot trim panel were fitted too. Followed shortly by an Alcantara headlining, Sun Visors etc. The new headlining did not have the cutouts for the lights behind the sun visors, so it had to be cut out. A little nerve wracking cutting into a £1,000 part with a craft knife! Parts list for the Alcantara headlining Main headlining 51 43 7 894 392 A pillar Left 51 43 2 693 607 A pillar Right 51 43 2 693 608 Alarm cover 51 44 2 698 330 Sunroof lid 54 12 8 159 557 Sunroof trim 54 12 2 693 636 Sliding cover 54 12 2 693 644 3 Off Nuts for sunroof 54 12 8 119 975 Covering Left 54 12 8 159 601 Covering Right 54 12 8 159 602 C Pillar Left 51 43 7 894 397 C Pillar Right 51 43 7 894 398 B Pillar Left 51 43 7 893 545 B Pillar Right 51 43 7 893 546 As my rear tyres were now worn out, I sources some Michelin Pilot Supper Sport tyres from the USA, the rears were not available in the UK for quite some time, I think late 2013. The thermostat failed again, so was replaced. As new tyres were fitted, I thought it would be best to have a full KDS alignment done. Unfortunately in the process the drivers side front wing was damaged, something caught the lip and bent it. It would be possible to fix, but I managed to get a free wing, all I had to do was paint it. However, when the car was resprayed, it had been noted that there was a small amount of corrosion on the seam of the passenger side front door. The corrosion had been treated, but as is often the way with these things it had returned, there had also been a few signs on the boot lid. So, a new door and boot lid was purchased, the bonnet and front bumper were resprayed together with the new wing and boot lid. A few other bits and obs replaced at the same time. Right front wing 51 71 8 159 424 Left front door 41 51 8 216 817 Left front door vapour barrier 51 48 7 055 929 Outer door gasket 51 21 9 069 322 Butyl tape for door vapour barriers 83 19 0 153 321 Reflective sticker 63 31 8 363 847 Boot lid 41 62 8 167 801 Spoiler 51 71 7 901 594 Adhesive spoiler tape 51 71 0 141 495 Boot light 63 31 6 962 039 Boot lock with code 51 24 8 216 812 Boot lock actuator 51 24 8 172 177 Boot lock grommet 51 24 8 120 166 3 Off bolt 07 14 6 985 055 Boot latch striker 51 24 8 120 848 2 Off boot gas strut 51 24 8 222 913 2 Off Grommet for fastening bonnet badge 51 14 1 807 495 2 Off Grommet for fastening boot badge 51 14 8 209 932 2 Off Plug in Nut 51 13 1 961 243 Grill Left 51 13 2 497 261 Grill Right 51 13 2 497 262