RichardP

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Everything posted by RichardP

  1. Ideally sigle stranded wire with high temperature insulation. Look for Kynar modding wire, 30 AWG (0.25mm).
  2. Yes, it's almost essential really unless you like unplugging and reconnecting your iPod/iPhone!
  3. See if they have anything here http://www.dabonwheels.co.uk/DAB_car_aerials.html
  4. I actually use a splitter/combiner using the OEM radio and TV aerials. Maca used a DAB antenna in the rear bumper and was thinking about the same in the front to give better directional coverage, I don't know if he ever did it. My experience with glass mount antenna in the E39 is that it's hard to find a place them. The internal ones are poor. The external ones can be put in stead of the phone antenna on the rear window, but they tend to whistle at speed unless they are raked back at quite an angle which looks rather odd.
  5. If the Intravee shows 'No iPod' then the problem is most probably somewhere on the iPod side of the KCA-420i. Has your KCA-420i been modified to wake up the iPod? Even with an iPhone it may be entering sleep mode from which a stock KCA-420i can't wake it up.
  6. When you power up the TUA-T100DAB it will have no station memory and will be tuned to the first multiplex which is not used in the UK. So the first thing to do is save some stations. I do this by selecting on of the bands and performing an AutoStore. This will save the first station from each of the first Multiplexes found in the 6 preset positions, the stations will all be labelled 'AutoStored' by the Intravee. The TUA-T100DAB is an old tuner, it does not list all the stations from all multiplexes like modern tuners, you first select the multiplex and then the station within the multiplex. Selecting stations is quick, selecting multiplexes the tuner has to scan. So, given you now have probably all local multiplexes stored, you can now select each one and find your favourite station within each one. When you find your favourite, save the preset again using a long press of the rotary controller on the preset that is already selected. The Intravee will change the preset name to the MULTIPLEX name, it will only do this is the previous preset name was 'Autostored', normally it will set the preset name to the STATION name. If you do this for all the presets then you will have 6 of your favourite stations quickly available, and you can also quickly change the Multiplex and then select other stations within each one. Other than stations presets, there is not much else to do.
  7. So, at last, after the best part of a year, I finally have my M1 at home! After keeping my eye out for a long time for an M1 I found one in July last year that looked like it fitted the bill. As with many M1’s the car history is not fully known, but it was first supplied by BMW leasing to an address in Munich in 1980 and from there found its way to Switzerland from where it was imported to the UK, but not registered, in 2011. Mechanically the car is in very good condition, there are some cosmetic rubber components that are not 100%, but replacements for most M1 parts are very difficult to find. The engine is not the original, the engine number on the block does not match up with the number it should, it’s not even the correct format! However, it appears that the engine is of a higher performance than standard. There was a company that tuned M1 engines, it’s possible that this is one of these. The car was also fitted with a stainless steel silencer. The car was originally white, at some point had been painted silver and then painted white again. The last repaint was done by a company that specialised in building luxury fibre glass yachts and they have done a very good job of painting the fibre glass body. The interior was originally black leather and cloth but, possibly when painted silver, had been re-trimmed in red leather with red carpets. I believe that the dash had also been covered red, but this had been reverted to black because of reflections on the windscreen. The interior had been done very well, but I wanted to return it to as close to original as possible. Also, the way the carpet had been done it was difficult to use the accelerator without hitting the brake, unless you had very narrow feet!! This is what it looked like when I bought it. Sourcing the materials required to restore it to its original appearance took much, much longer than I anticipated. The seat cloth is unique to the M1 but I managed to find a source in Germany and bought 4 sq m plus a genuine roof panel which is covered in the same material (the roof had been covered red too). The leather used in the M1 has finish that is difficult to replicate, you can get close but not exactly the same using widely available leather. Again I managed to source some of the original leather, a total of 18 sq m was needed, 4 full hides. I also found a genuine new hand brake lever and handle and a new gear knob. The backs of the seats are covered in a black tweed like cloth, this proved very difficult to find something that looked identical and impossible to find the original material. Eventually I managed to find some material that was a pretty close match. The carpets turned out to be very frustrating. There are 9 pieces of carpet, two floor pieces, 2 wheel arch pieces, two pieces down each side of the transmission tunnel (4 in all) and a piece at the back. I managed to find 5 genuine pieces of the 9 pieces required, but the material is impossible to replicate. In the end I had to settle for a reasonable colour match high quality carpet, it’s probably much better quality than the original, but I was a little disappointed that I could not use the genuine stuff. Other miscellaneous parts that were required were a replacement radio (which currently does not work!), a brand new set of original floor mats (which need to be fastened down somehow as they currently slide right under the pedals!), a genuine replacement rear silencer and twin black tail pipes, replacement rear window seal, black flock finish centre cubby hole (the original had been covered red), leather covered ash tray, a genuine rear ///M1 decal (from the USA), new wheel centre caps with the old BMW logo and I even found an original unused M1 English instruction manual. I also found a genuine new mph speedometer, the original kph speedometer rear just 5055 when replaced, I don’t know if this is the original, it may have been replaced when the engine was replaced. A selection of hoses and gaskets and other odds and ends were obtained from BMW classic, I wasn’t sure if they would be needed or not but though it best to start building a spares bank just in case! I collected the car from Munich Legends on 1st July after they had given it a thorough inspection. I drove it to a Shell garage and back to fill up with V-Power, just enough to get the car good and hot. We then did a final inspection on the ramps to check for any leaks, remarkably there was nothing at all, dry as a bone, the ML techs said they had never seen an M1 with no leaks! I left ML to drive the car home just after midday, you might remember that 1st July was a rather hot day, my route took me clockwise round the M25 past Heathrow where the recorded temperature reached 36.7C! I was a little apprehensive to say the least, the temperature on the motorway was probably significantly higher, but the car did not miss a beat over the 275 mile trip. The air con is rather rudimentary, but it did its job, just! I’ve had the car up on ramps again since I got home, still pretty much bone dry, just a very small amount of sweating from a couple of places. Things left to do include: - Repair the radio - Repair the clock, some of the illuminated elements don’t work. - Find a way to anchor the floor mats. - Find a way to secure the spare wheel, there were two designs, the one that matches the main wheels can’t be fastened down using the supplied bolt! - Find a replacement left front indicator, it has a small crack, part NLA. - Find a replacement right window guide, it has a small cut, part NLA. - Find as many spare parts as possible! Finally, here are a couple of pictures as she is now, I'll add some more detailed pictures later.
  8. Ok, I understand now! Any E39 rear speakers will work, the DSP version is supposed to be slightly better quality, but they are still not great so I doubt you'll notice!
  9. The speakers fire upwards from the top of that enclosure. It may be just that they are disconnected.
  10. You should not have to do that, but the voltage converters often don't clip in vary well (or at all). Taping them together may help, but check inside the connectors to make sure they are clean and free from fluff etc. first.
  11. The connector is very similar for a BM54, you need to remove the plastic housing. For a BM24 it's different and you need an ISO to FAKRA adaptor.
  12. There are two options with DSP, so that narrows it down somewhat! M-Audio has two large subs in the boot, these are in addition to the speakers that mount into the top of the parcel shelf. Standard DSP has a large sub enclosure in the boot with two small diameter subs in it. The easiest way to tell what you should have if there are just wires is to look at the underside of the parcel shelf from inside the boot. There are three possible options : 1 - Not originally a DSP system, there will be no large round holes in the metal. 2 - Standard DSP, there will be two round holes about 10cm in diameter. 3 - M-Audio, there will be 4 large D shaped holes about 20cm in diameter. You can also look at the existing speakers, M-Audio speakers have a yellow cone, standard DSP are black.
  13. Good to finally meet you too Neil. I assume the above is a fat finger Apple auto correct?
  14. I was at Gaydon yesterday for the BMW Car Club festival, and took part in the concourse on Saturday. Staying up until 9:30pm until it got dark, and then getting up again at 4:30am just as it was getting light to finish prepping the car payed off. On another note, I'd noticed that my car was missing two parts in the engine bay. Looking at other cars, there are shaped plastic uprights that fasten on to two bosses on the main chassis. They fit into the buttresses on the engine bay cover, presumably to change the airflow in some way. There appear to be at least two versions, you can see them on either side in these two pictures, above the expansion tank and dip stick. Early version from chassis number 4301013 Later version from chassis number 4301108 Most cars seem to have these parts. They attach by 2 bolts to the boss on the chassis. However, not only was I missing the parts, but there are no holes in the boss to fit the bolts to! Appologies for the back focused picture The parts are NLA from BMW and they are not just a flat plate, they have a hoop on which goes round the tubular chassis member. So, I borrowed a pair from another M1 owner had them digitised and 3D printed Using the highest quality printer and mode, these took over 20 hours each to print. The finish is not identical as the originals are moulded, but they are not bad. I also noticed that some cars had the top edge wrapped in a trim strip and others did not. The variations may all just be due to the way the Italian assembly operators felt on the day, the availability of parts, of that bits have fallen off or been removed at some point over the last 37 years, who knows. As the parts only arrived last Friday, I temporarily attached them with double sided foam tape.
  15. Rear multi-function arm rest, rear drinks cooler and Alcantara boot trim are the three rarest options on an E39 M5, except for individual stuff.
  16. Short answer, no. The rain sensor is not active when the ignition is off and the convertible roof has a load of interlocks that make controlling it from the iBus impossible (at least I've never succeeded in making it work).
  17. Yes, that's not actually the car park. The hotel allow certain cars to be parked outside the front door for security, I don't know what the rules are (if there are any) but I just asked and they said OK.
  18. At the Silverstone Classic at the week end. A few nice cars in the hotel car park, the M1 was at the front obviously! Not the best photo as it was just on my phone, but see what you can spot.
  19. Sorry to be late in picking up this thread, been on holiday then here and there! I do have, or can make up, a Breakout Box if you want one, let me know if you still want one and I'll PM you the details. Currently the UI does not exist for the AI-Net processors with the single line systems (MID, Busienss etc), it will still work, change volume etc. and use the BMW DSP interface to change settings, but you can't easily change the PXA specific options. There is no Alpine DAB+ solution, the TUA-T100DAB is too old and can't be upgraded (well, anything is possible, but it would take significant effort to do so). The TUA-T500HD and TUA-T550HD will tune to regular FM stations, their frequency step is that of the USA so they don't work well in the UK, not sure about Australia, but if RosieE39/2 has it working then I guess the step frequency step there must be the same a the USA. The TUA-T550HD does show RDS text info, again it does not work well in the UK so I've never been able to test it properly, but in theory it works. The TUA-T500HD does not support RDS text.
  20. 877 is to do with the alarm. It enables you to use the key to arm and remote to disarm or v/v.
  21. Changes from V6.02-7045 Added invalidation of ID3 tags on receipt of broadcast ID3.Added debug printf when processor volume reported is not the volume requested.Added 1 second timer on setting the processor volume, if the timer times out then the volume request is sent again.Added debug printf on changing the processor source.Added option to display the Journal and Vehicle Status in full screen mode on a MK IV Nav.Added PXA Direct option which when selected causes the AI-Net port to be used when the Intravee source is selected.Added switch of Processor source when PXA Direct is selected and a Nav command is detected.Added light sensor trigger level for Entry and Exit lights, the will probably only work on the E46, maybe the Z4 and X3.Added retry up to 10 times on sending light control messages if no Ack is seen.Changed the mechanism for display disable when Intravee is paused for Phone or VR.Change to FID audio menu update frequency.Changed OPARM version to 64.Fixed bug when changing the processor volume while reduced (in reverse) changing the volume now cancels the reduction.Fixed bug when setting the clock from the Nav when the TZ setting was more then 9.5 Hours or less then -9.5 hours.Fixed bug that caused the Nav type to be requested on power when in auto UI mode up even if the Auto Nav type setting was not selected.Fixed bug that prevented VR commands being heard when using PXA Direct mode.Removed debug printf on Net App restart.fw-app-256 - extras V6.02-7058.zip Intravee_Users_Guide_V6.02-7058.pdf Intravee_Extra_Features_Supplement_V6.02-7058.pdf Intravee_PXA_Supplement_V6.02-7058.pdf Intravee_Supported_Devices_V6.02-7045.pdf
  22. Yes, seen that before! It's being (or has been) restored by Filipe of Mint Classics in Munster. He gets some amazing cars! Not so long ago he had an M3 Sport Evo that had done 116km, that's 116, not 116 thousand. He sold the silver M1 about 18 months ago for just under $1m. He also has a 328 (the original one, not an E46!) that he drove in the Mille Miglia a couple of weeks ago.
  23. Sorry for the delay. LCM is the light control module. From the sound of it it's the LCM messages that are causing the problem, so you'd not be able to use any of the features that control the lights, DLRs, Sticky indicators etc. You can go pretty much from any firmware to any other. If there is a new feature introduced in a firmware build, it's settings will be reset to the default when you update to it but not if you downgrade to it.
  24. So additional hardware is required and this is a 'special' message? If so, what does the iBus message look like, can you post an example?