Platinum Members
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


RichardP last won the day on March 16

RichardP had the most liked content!

About RichardP

  • Rank
    BMW5 Star
  • Birthday

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    North Yorkshire


  • Garage
    E39 M5, F06 M6 Gran Coupe, E26
  1. Yes. However you need something pretty beefy as the resistance of the bulb on cold check is pretty low. Ironically, the most efficient thing to use is a small bulb!!
  2. More likely an interaction in the LCM detecting the current taken by the combination of HIDs and LEDs vs Halogens and LEDs, enough to tip it over the threshold.
  3. The LCM is detecting a blown side light bulb, when this happens it illuminates the indicator to give some sort of side light until the bulb is fixed.
  4. I think it's to aid cooling of the outer wall (the tips are double skinned) and to let out any condensation that might get in between the skins (I also think there is a gap about 2 inches into the tips)
  5. I have one, but it's pretty subtle, especially as it's a 63 plate anyway, and I don't think anyone has yet detected it as a personalised plate without any prior prompting. I just got it because it was available, cheap and a little nerdy! If the spacing was M S63T GC it might be more noticeable; if you're a geek and know the designation for the engine in the M6 Gran Coupe! If I could afford to and it was available, I'd not say no to 'M 1' on my M1. Apparently it was sold for £331,500 in 2006!
  6. As it's been more than 6 years since the full respray, looking at the playing card reflections made me think it would be interesting to do the same thing again and compare various parts of the car. Back in 2011, as all the car had been done at the same time, the finish was very uniform. Since then the boot lid and both front doors have been replaced, the bonnet repainted (twice!) and the bonnet covered in a clear wrap. So, how do those areas compare with parts of the paint untouched since 2011? I rummaged through my draws to find the same playing card I'd used in 2011. Unfortunately the weather was not quite so good as when the original pictures were taken, so the car is inside under LED lights rather than outside in the sunshine. First, the areas that have not been touched, the same areas that were pictured previously The roof The rear wing They look pretty much the same, pretty flat, still nice and shiny! How about the passenger side front door, replaced in June 2013 due to corrosion on the seams. the boot lid, done at the same time as the passenger door. or the drivers door, replaced October 2014 due to the same issue as the passenger door and finally, the bonnet. Repainted both in 2013 and 2014 (in 2014 it was taken back to bare metal again) then covered with clear protective film. You can definitely see the slight texture of the film, not so much in the reflection of the playing card, but in the reflection of the out of focus bottom edge of the wall cupboards. Overall though, still a pretty consistent texture and finish. I'm pretty happy with that.
  7. Higher values give fuel consumption readings that are lower. So if your car is optimistic (and they almost all are!) then increase the number. 1050 sounds about right.
  8. They are all very different, and in different ways. In a straight line, the M6 will leave the M5 for dead, it's much, much faster. The M6 is also a better motorway mile muncher, not that the M5 is bad, the M6 just makes it effortless. In the twisties, there is probably not a lot in it, the M6 is heavier but has slightly wider tyres. Tech wise, the M6 is obviously better, the HUD especially is fantastic as is the surround view (although I wish there was a front camera as there is in the i8), Nav is more modern, the iDrive system has matured and is very easy to use and navigate. Practicality, the M5 probably just wins, the boot is theoretically slightly smaller, but the opening and shape are more useful. Rear head room in the M6 is slightly less, but leg room more. Comfort, not much in it. Once the M6 seats are adjusted correctly they are great. The M5 seats are very good to and with less adjustment somehow easier to get right. The DCT in the M6 is great if you're on a track or in stop start traffic, you can just be lazy and the auto part does a great job. You can get a little more involvement using manual mode, but it still doesn't have the degree of involvement that using a clutch and manual gear lever do. For manoeuvring, especially reverse hill starts the DCT and electric hand brake combination is shit, just bloody hard to control. There is so much power and the way it engages meany you have to almost instantly get the throttle pedal position just right. Not enough and you roll forwards, too much and you wheel spin backwards. Same in snow, the M5 gives much better usable traction. The steering in the M5 (especially now it's back to normal after changing the servotronic valve) gives much more feedback than the steering in the M6. It feels like there is a lot of rubber between the steering wheel and the track rods in the M6. This dampens vibrations etc. but it also limits feedback so it's relatively numb. The whole experience in the M6 is more 'remote' than the M5, if you had no speedo you could easily be doing 130 in the M6 and think it was 70. From a visibility point of view, which includes parking and placing the car accurately on a track or down a narrow lane with oncoming traffic the M5 wins hand down. Both are big cars, but the M5 feels much smaller to drive. In the M6 you're lower down, the lowest seat position on the M5 is about the same as the highest on the M6. This makes it more difficult to judge the front of the car. The A pillars are much wider in the M6, they will undoubtedly give better strength but they hamper visibility especially in conjunction with the door mirrors. The combination create a very significant blind spot looking at about 1 to 2 o'clock, just where you need to look to judge the curb. I've never curbed a wheel on the M5, in the first year of owning the M6 I curbed 3, although now I'm more used to it I've not done another since. The M1, that's a different ball game. It always feels special to drive, not because the interior is plush, it's quite austere, but because of the history of the car and the engine just behind your head. It's about as fast as the M5, probably would corner much better if you pushed it, which I haven't! It's surprisingly easy and comfortable to drive, the possible exception being the tweed like material of the seats which must be one of the best thermal insulators known to man, if it's hot, your back and bum get very warm indeed. Bottom line, they all feel epic, in their own unique way. The M6, it looks fantastic and goes like shit of a shovel, there are not many cars you're likely to come across on the roads that could live with it. But at the same time you can drive 300 miles, collect your slightly nervy mother and father-in-law and drive the 300 miles back to be home by lunch time. I did that when they planned to drive up for my sister-in-laws wedding the day before, got a phone call very early in the morning saying they had set off as planned and then lost their bottle, turned round and gone back home. Obviously they had to attend their own daughters wedding, so I just went and got them! The M5 is probably the most 'normal' car, it does everything very well, but does not excel at anything. It's fast, but not ballistic. It handles well, but would be left for dead by any number of small nimble sports cars. It does not stand out, to many people it's just an old 5 series. It's got a big boot and can seat 5 in comfort. I took my son to University for the first time in it, 5 up and all his crap in the boot, no problem at all, it would have been possible in the M6, but a bit of a squeeze for the occupant of the middle rear seat. The M1, it's a bloody M1! Every time you go out in it you get looks. Almost every time you fill up at the petrol station someone wants to talk about it, "You don't see many of those about". But I'd really not want to use it as my daily driver. It's the oldest. It has the most character. It needs respect as it has no power steering, no ABS, no traction control, no air bags, no seat belt tensioners. It's raw, but surprisingly civilised, drive from North Yorkshire to Munich, about 1000 miles, in two days, no problem.
  9. Pretty much up to date now, so roll back to late 2012. I took the M5 on a track day organised by the BMW car club, the first attempt in September was very wet. Managed to get a couple of laps in, not even one full flying lap, then it was cancelled. Got a couple of stills from inside the car and the Car Club photographer took a couple as I went round. Waiting in the pit lane The view from outside and inside several people doing this caused the day to be cancelled The second attempt was in November, it was a clear cold day and the track was still wet and very slippery. Car Club photographer pictures And a video of a session with an instructor Despite the weather it was bloody good fun. Although it's a big heavy car it was pretty good on the wide open spaces and long straits of Silverstone. The brakes were pretty much shot afterwards though, they picked up a vibration that didn't go until the disks were changed.
  10. If you can find the codes for controlling the level, I can see what would be involved in adding it.
  11. The welcome message is designed as a one off, once it goes, it goes! The Intravee just sends the message once, it's the existence of other messages that clear it. It should disappear as soon as there is any other cluster display activity. I'm pretty sure the phone capability of the cluster is disabled if a system message is displayed on the cluster, however I'd have expected the cluster message to clear as soon as you turn the ignition on anyway. I've never tried controlling the ride height of the RR, I'm pretty sure it's possible as I think there are (or used to be) other modules that could be used to control it. However, I don;t know the iBus codes that need to be used. It's possible that an iBus log of adjusting the ride height might include the codes, it depends how they have been implemented.
  12. Story of the day. I've noticed that the steering weight has not been changing for some time when using Sport mode, it should get noticeably heavier. More recently I think the steering has been becoming heavier too, but that might just be comparing it to the M6. I read the codes with my Peake reader and low and behold code 74 came up, this means that the resistance of the Servotronic valve, or Servotrinoc Torque Converter as BMW call it, has become too low and thus the required current too high. The DME logs a fault and it enters fail safe mode which is low assistance. Decided to give it a go myself, bought the valve via Cotswold and got the car up on my diddy ramps, gives about 35 cm space under the car which is just enough but rather tight. First job is to remove the under tray, you can then just see the valve which is on the bottom of the steering box facing the rear. Remove the heat shield, just 3 bolts Then spray loads and loads of penetrating oil at it and left it over night, then sprayed more penetrating oil on it. You need to undo two of the 4 bolts, looking at the new part you can see which ones The two bolts need a 2.5mm Allen key, which is really small for something that's likely to be pretty well corroded up. I used a pin to clean as much dirt as possible from around the bolt and in the hole. Access is not easy, but there is actually a surprising amount of space for your hands etc. You can get your hands in from the front while looking from the rear. This is the wrench setup that I found worked best 2.5mm Allen key on 1/4 drive with universal joint, then 1/4 extension to 3/8 adaptor, 3/8 universal to 3/8 extension and ratchet. This enables you to get a good purchase on the bolts. First one, top left, came out using a fair bit of force, but without drama. The second one, bottom right. did this to my Allen key And stripped the hole in the bolt. At this point I could say that I then did x-y-z and got the bolt out. But to come clean, the car was booked into the local dealership for the drivers air bag recall, so I asked them to do it! The 'book' method for replacing the valve is to drop the sub frame which is about 8 hours including the realignment that has to be done afterwards. I said if you can't get it out in 1/2 an hour leave it. My backup plan was to use a flexible drill shaft to get access to drill it out, if that failed then it would have to be a sub frame off job. The garage hammered in a small Torx bit, easier for them to do due to my restricted working space, and got it off. They fitted the new valve and the tiny filter that come with it, they said that the hardest part was getting the old filter out. The steering is now back as it should be, it's now lighter in Sport mode than it was and there is a noticeable difference between Sport mode and normal. The new air bag looks almost identical to the old one. I can't find any pictures that show it, but the roundal in the middle of the old air bag had a very slight imperfection at the top. This was the same in my previous E46's with the same wheel so it wasn't just a one off defect. The new one does not have the imperfection.
  13. Yeah, I don't think there would really be any point in selling it now. Too much effort has gone into it and with the miles (114,400 now) it would never pay back what it owes. Still some things to do, all three of the mounts for the emissions air pump are broken, so the pump is just hanging in the bracket. BMW wanted £12.72 + VAT each for them. found some replacements that look pretty much identical for £3.99. The broken mount I'm currently waiting for a replacement bracket as the existing one is pretty badly corroded. The base of the mounts and nuts were rusted on and took some persuasion to get off! I've had a go at the exhaust tips too. They have been bugging me for ages. The system is stainless steel, but its plated with quite a thin layer. If you look in the picture in the second post of the closeup of the exhaust, you can see that the plating is starting to fail at the bottom of the tip. As the years went by this got worse, much worse. Cleaning the tips made them look worse. The only solution, other than replacing the rear silencers, was to totally remove the plating and take them back to bear stainless. The company that did the Ceramic Coating go most of it off, I did some extra polishing. This is the best I've got so far. The final part of the paint protection after the Ceramic Coating was to have a clear wrap on the bonnet, wings, front bumper, headlights and fog lights. This is the same type of wrap as I have one the M6, it's done a good job on the M6 and is pretty much invisible unless you look really closely.
  14. After Market.
  15. 2016 saw little action, partially because I was more than a little preoccupied with my M1! In fact, I was seriously considering selling the car and exchanging it for something low mileage that would possibly appreciate over time with just a little use, I looked at a 5,000 mile 1M. However I decided to take the M5 out for a bit of a drive and it reminded me just how good it is. I thought I'd better make sure that the chassis was in first class condition. Over the summer I'd has a good look underneath, the break pipes were starting to go and the fuel vent pipe on the left side was getting really quite bad. So, plan of action. First, after the respray the paint was really quite soft. Carbon Black shows every mark anyway, but when it's soft it's really very hard to keep looking good. I decided that a Ceramic Coating would help prevent minor scratches so I had 10 coats applied. Ceramic Coatings are no magic bullet, but in effect it's like having a harder topcoat applied. It certainly makes water bead on it that's for sure! Next, I wanted to get the underside sorted. That meant taking off the exhaust, dropping the fuel tank and rear sub frame, removing all the heat shields and seeing what it looked like. Answer, not pretty! Fortunately, it had just about been caught in time, removal of the rust and old under seal (where it had been) started Followed by treetment of the remaining rust, priming and coating with 2 pack Epoxy underseal Brake pipes, the vent pipe and various clips were also replaced. Then I'd noticed small puffs of blue smoke on startup after sitting for some time. So, time for valve stem seal replacement and a de-coke. Out with the engine and off with the heads! Some cylinder wall scoring was evident, but it apparently looks worse than it is The heads were bead blasted to get rid of any carbon build up in the airways and the valves re-lapped. Another aim was to remove the headers and race cats and return to stock. I really don't want to have the hassle of nursing it through the MOT emissions check any more. Parts for the engine work Head Gasket 11 12 7 833 733 Head Gasket 11 12 7 833 734 2 Off Head Bolt set 11 12 7 583 115 4 Off Torx Bolt set 11 23 1 402 618 Head Set 11 12 1 407 805 Gasket Set 11 12 1 407 804 Dowel 11 12 1 726 241 Rail 11 31 1 406 366 8 Off O-Ring 13 54 1 406 352 4 Off ASA Bolt 11 23 1 402 618 Pulley 32 42 1 406 769 Bracket 13 41 7 830 580 6 Off Clutch Bolt 07 11 9 906 045 Oil Filter 11 42 7 510 717 3 Off Anti Freeze 1500ml 83 51 2 355 290 and the headers, pipes etc. Header Cylinder 1 & 3 11 62 1 407 929 Header Cylinder 2 & 4 11 62 1 407 642 Header Cylinder 5 & 6 11 62 1 407 643 Header Cylinder 7 & 8 11 62 1 407 644 Left bank Catalytic Converter 18 30 1 406 812 Right bank Catalytic Converter 18 30 1 406 813 2 Off Clamp Bus 18 30 7 536 425 Pipe 34 32 6 755 316 Pipe 34 32 6 755 312 2 Off Brake Hose 34 30 1 165 190 4 Off Washer 34 30 1 163 613 2 Off Washer 37 13 1 114 028 Vent Pipe 16 12 2 228 834 2 Off Hose Clamp 16 12 1 180 240 Holder 16 12 1 155 064 4 Off Holder 16 12 1 182 666 4 Off Holder 34 32 1 162 455 Tube Clamp 18 30 1 407 091 Support 18 30 1 408 017 4 Off Hex Bolt 07 11 9 905 394 Tube Clamp 18 30 1 407 091 Reinforcement 41 11 2 695 495 Pipe 21 52 1 162 116 Pipe 16 13 2 228 831 2 Off Holder 34 32 1 162 878 2 Off Holder 34 32 6 855 500 2 Off Expanding Nut 63 17 1 367 868 2 Off Washer 37 13 1 114 028 Damp Rubber 16 11 1 183 136 16 Off Nut 18 10 7 523 805 Brake Fluid DOT 4 5 Off Nut Body 51 48 1 954 066 4 Off Expanding Nut 63 17 1 367 868 Exhaust Bolt Knurled 11 62 1 704 717 4 Off Exhaust Bolt 11 62 1 716 352 4 Off Nut 18 10 7 523 805 5 Off Speed Nut 8 Off Counter sunk screw Bulb with socket 63 12 6 904 048 Cover 12 52 1 702 103 The headers and cats were second hand, they cost a fortune new!