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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/12/2018 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    The clutch work has now been officially completed! It all went pretty smoothly, to be honest - nothing unexpected, which was a good thing, but I've purchased whatever parts had to come off, so I was well-prepared for everything. So the first thing to come off was the exhaust, and this time we had to remove it from the exhaust manifold end, rather than from the cat, as otherwise the front section would be in the way when taking the gearbox out. Make sure that you have the 2 gaskets for the catalytic converter and the 6 copper nuts, because the existing ones simply won't be re-usable. With the full exhaust out of the way, now you can remove the centre exhaust heatshield that covers the propshaft and see the condition of the propshaft centre bearing. To replace it, you will need to remove the propshaft, meaning 6 bolts at the gearbox end, where the propshaft flex disc (guibo) is, and 6 nuts at the diff end. With the propshaft out, we've inspected the centre bearing, and I was amazed to see that it was actually genuine BMW - whether it was the original from factory or was possibly replaced some time ago with a genuine BMW part, but it was in pretty decent condition regardless. To remove the centre bearing from the propshaft, you will need to undo the bolt in the middle of the propshaft to separate the two halves, and then the bearing slides out, complete with the mounting. The assembly is the reverse of the removal. Now the gearbox can come out. The top 2 bolts with the nuts that hold the starter motor in place can be a bit of a pain to get to, but with a few extensions, it's a doable job. The starter motor can stay where it is, you just need to slightly push it forward, towards the engine, so it clears the gearbox. And here it was finally on the floor: Had a look at the propshaft guibo and it looked perfect to me - I felt like I was changing all these bits for no reason..It was genuine BMW as well, made by Jurid. Anyway, it's good to replace all these things when doing major work, such as changing the clutch, so you won't have to go in there again in the future. With the gearbox out, now we can see the pressure plate/clutch assembly. The pressure plate is held by 6 allen bolts, but the replacements that I bought from BMW were torx - not a big deal, they fit perfectly fine. I would advise getting new bolts, as the existing ones are not always re-usable and you don't want to be stuck at this point of the job by not having a few bolts that don't cost a fortune. After having inspected the clutch, it was obvious that it was past its best with all kinds of cracks, uneven surface and small chunks missing everywhere. Both the pressure plate and the clutch were genuine BMW, made by LUK, so I'd say this was what the car left the factory with. One thing that I haven't bought was the dual-mass flywheel, but BMW doesn't necessarily recommend replacing these when doing the clutch, so it really depends on the condition and it's up to you, if you do it or not. It's not exactly cheap, but still reasonable - LUK is just over £300 from ECP (with the discount). Mine looked fine, so we decided to leave it. Enough chit-chat, back to work. The new clutch and the pressure plate is now in place - make sure to put the clutch disc the correct way round, it should say on it "Gearbox side", so you know which side goes where. Then we moved onto the gear linkage and the gearbox mountings. All pretty straightforward here - again, I'm sure everything that we've replaced was original BMW from factory, so looks like I was the first one to do such major work on the car. Surprisingly, the linkage bushes and the gear lever was all in good condition - I remember these bits were completely knackered on my E30, when I did the same work on that car. The complete gear linkage, fully assembled with all new bushes and mountings, ready to be fitted on the car: Almost forgot about the slave cylinder - nothing special here, really. I couldn't see any markings on the clutch hose that we removed, so not sure what make it was, but the slave cylinder was made by FTE, which is an OEM supplier, so good stuff. With all the new bits fitted, we began putting everything back into place and here you can see the gearbox already installed with all the mountings and the propshaft connected: We finished off by putting the exhaust back in and here are the gaskets and the nuts that I mentioned in the beginning of this post, saying that you should replace them. As you can see, I've also bought a few exhaust brackets as well. It's basically the bracket that supports the front section of the exhaust, as it's bolted to the rear of the gearbox. The difference in how the car pulls away now and how it used to, is definitely noticeable. The biting point is a lot lower, as the car starts moving when you only slightly release the clutch pedal. Also the clutch pedal itself has become very soft, probably due to the fact that I've got a new slave cylinder as well. It builds up speed with much less effort and obviously there's no more creaking clutch pedal when hot or occasional slipping. Overall, I'm very pleased. Not much left to do on this car to make it mechanically perfect. My "custom-made roller guides" for the rear window regulators didn't last too long, because just the other day I tried to put down the driver's rear window and it kind wobbled, almost collapsed, but luckily I managed to close it. As a result, I have actually purchased 2 second-hand regulators for the rear and going to fit them soon, hopefully then I'll have these rear windows fixed for good. Apart from that, I'd like to get the catalytic converter replaced by Klarius, since mine is making all kinds of funny noises, and most likely get a cat-back Jetex exhaust system as well, unless I can find any other decent make - this seems to be the best one, not sure if I would want to do anything custom-made... Then get a new lambda sensor while I'm there, replace all 6 ignition coils to cure the intermittent idling/hesitation problems, and worst-case scenario, I might need a new AFM as well.....Or I might try cleaning it and see if it helps, instead of having to buy a new one. All these things are not urgent and I'm not in too much of a hurry to get them done. So depending on funds/time available, I'll be sure to update this thread and let you know how it all goes. Thanks for following and all the best.
  2. 3 points
    What did I do to my F10 today? I GOT IT BACK! 6 long weeks of having to drive around in a Milk Float and a Posh Tart's car, I have it back where it should be in one piece on my driveway. Oh and I also treated it to a tank full of VPower @ £1.429 per litre. Nothing but the best. The engine is so much better than the Lexus or the Merc. It pulls so much better and it's so much quieter! I can hardly hear it compared to the last two. That's the joy of six for you. Happy days are here again.
  3. 3 points
    Opie Oils are doing a deal on 5W30 LL FST code: EDGE20 £53 for 8L delivered
  4. 3 points
    Yokozuna

    Mercedes E63s

    Tut tut! depending on the box (ie if it’s the 7sp one) then it “should” be taking off in 2nd anyway! lets face it, we ALL love the noise of a V8 and if you can’t tell others you’ve got one then what’s the point....
  5. 3 points
    Washed it with my new Autobrite snowfoam lance.
  6. 2 points
    Genuine style 65 wheels, staggered and finished in dark anthracite. These were my winter wheels so are shod in Vredestein Wintrac Xtreme in 235/40/18 and 265/35/18, with plenty of tread left. £600. Condition is fairly good, as can be seen from the photos. One wheel has a few nicks, again as can be seen, but I’d say these are plug and play and look perfectly decent to drive away on. And they are awesome fun in the snow! Appreciate the rubber choice probably isnt exactly what most will be wanting them for, and priced accordingly. Will i I split the rears? Nope Will i I remove the tyres? Nope Will i chuck in a fifth wheel, a front that’s poorly finished and silver but makes the ideal spare, if you pay the asking price? Yes! Collection only from just outside of folkstone.
  7. 2 points
    Paddy O'Furniture

    Car insurance

    I don't know why they bother asking for a value because they will only try and pay out the minimum that they can get away with.
  8. 2 points
    If you want to go to the outback, go in a Landrover, if you want to come home from the outback, go in a Toyota...... When my mate ordered his new XE Jag, I sent him this still from the Grand Tour episode "Jaaaaaags".
  9. 2 points
    sharkfan

    E34 Headliner material idea's

    There's a guy on PH doing a great Rover SD1 restoration who did a load of research for his headling woes; I asked him and he said this stuff... https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/product/1554/high-heat-resistant-aerosol-adhesive
  10. 2 points
    535i Andrew

    Mercedes E63s

    I am running around in a 2018 C300 coupe just now and agree the interior plastics are really poor, there is no substance to the switches and it just feels a bit flimsy. But as it's a hire car it handles really well.
  11. 2 points
    waitee

    Turbo fault, fixed cheaply!

    Hi guys just thought I'd share my latest experience. Didn't have the car long when suddenly the power kind of left. low speeds was fine but nothing there when overtaking at motorway speeds. revs would build slow, or stay planted at 3k sometimes. Error codes where 003F57 boost pressure plate, 003F97 boost pressure plate, supply voltage and 004530 charge pressure control, control deviation. Its an e60 525D with a remap, no PDF ERG or CAT etc.. (irrelevant really though) So after a bit of digging it turns out it was the ELECTRONIC TURBO ACTUATOR, it was acting a little weird when revving you could see it pulsing funny and moving rapidly for no reason. A few mechanics would not change this on its own stating they are matched to the turbos.. bla bla bla... spoke to a great chap after some research of my own from turbovanes.com (this is not a plug for them by the way however I would recommend them) he advised me on the actuator I needed, With the serial on the turbo and car vin I was send out a new actuator which I had a mechanic swap over for me, and like magic no faults and car pulls hard and fast again!, also was a good chance to see what the Turbo was in good condition by pushing the actuator by hand to make sure it was smooth and free. which it was. Anyway hope that helps someone.
  12. 2 points
    Well, that's the old 520i passed it's MOT, despite all the work I did on it! One year and 23 days worth! Couple of minors / advisories. Firstly, minors on the rear outer CV boots 'severely deteriorated'. Now - I had a look at these, and as far as I can see they aren't perished - just dirty! Other than that, the fuel cap seal is perished, so I'll replace that.
  13. 2 points
    duncan-uk

    Mercedes E63s

    and if you ever mention me and politicians in the same sentence .... I will strike down upon thee with great vengeance and furious anger those who attempt to poison and destroy my brothers. And you will know I am the Lord when I lay my vengeance upon you!
  14. 2 points
    JCP

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    I think it needs to be slightly - the result was perfect.
  15. 2 points
    This is my beloved watch in whom I am well pleased. It is a Toucan and when I look at it it reminds me that it's 'Guinness Time' and therefore a visit to my local watering hole is imminent. Cost all of £8 ten years ago, was guaranteed for twenty minutes and has never missed a beat. Most recent valuation is that it's worth about three cheers!
  16. 2 points
    NoSmokeNoPoke

    My Stage 3 535D 414hp.

    Some washing and polishing today. Autobrite snowfoam and poorboys black hole glaze on it.
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    Chris Margetts

    Stolen!

    Shocking that you got broken into. Glad you are okay after your detective sleuthing - well done. I have a g31 which I’m hoping thieves wouldn’t want to be seen dead in
  19. 1 point
    cableguy

    Geordie's 1989 530i SE auto

    If the upswept DTM's prove a little too much, then a good exhaust builder should be able to remove the tips from the box and stainless weld some more appropriate/OEM looking tips in their place. There's a good stainless exhaust builder over in Darlington IIRC. C.
  20. 1 point
    Blobby

    Rotherhithe Tunnel

    Get a load of un-silenced M5's (e39's and e60's) see if they can crack the walls
  21. 1 point
    Biotoxic

    Dyno runs and search for more power...

    I asked them to fit the DPF from 2.5 litre engine as it has a 3" as well and I asked them to fit in a way so I could remove the DPF myself whenever I need it and fit a straight pipe back on the exhaust itself. I didn't gut it because later on in a future mot centres could be able to measure if I actually have the element itself or not. So now I only have to remove the DPF and leave it in a shelf for the next mot to be hustle free. No idea about the dyno configuration. DPF I got it from a scrapyard for £160 with other bits and pieces. There is a brand new ones available on ebay for about £170.. I would suggest to get the brand new one, as you wouldn't have much hustle to clean them. Power wise feels like big turbo doesn't work. It is that bad... it only has some I mean some low down power...
  22. 1 point
    Had the MOT/end of AUC warranty check done at BMW Bridgwater. As requested, they didn't wash it and all is good with no advisories.
  23. 1 point
    boiliebasher

    Kit's E34 535i

    Thanks mate. I'll take that on board and order up a new heater matrix when I finally decide to take the job on then!!
  24. 1 point
    Geordie

    Geordie's 1989 530i SE auto

    Little update. The Scorpion couldn't sit on the back seat for too long, so I took it into my mates garage to get it up on the ramps... I know which one I'd rather have... Original old and holed system...... off..... Middle section on... and rear section on .... Looks, and sounds, sweet. Love the upward flick on the tailpipes.... Later on yesterday, I spent half an hour under the bonnet cleaning down the engine a bit.... Noticed a little split... Possibly, along with a blowing exhaust, an ingredient in the intermittent lumpy, hesitant running issue?? I've taped it up now to see if there's an improvement. It actually drove very nicely after the exhaust was fitted yesterday, but it was never an issue that was there all the time. I was hoping to take it to it's first show today at Raby Castle, but the weather was set in wet and grey for the day, so I didn't bother, and hence I'm not sure if the running issue will return. Time will tell.
  25. 1 point
    Ok, so all the parts shopping for the clutch work has now been done and here's what I've got. Starting with the most important thing, being the clutch kit, you basically have a choice of going for the Sachs kit or LUK. Both are excellent quality, OEM brands, so without the matter which one you go for, it will be good stuff. Amazingly, BMW still sell the clutch kit for the E34, at least for the M50B25TU, that's for sure - so if you want to go genuine and don't mind spending 300-400 pounds for the kit, then the BMW part number for the genuine clutch kit is: 21211223546 I decided to go for the Sachs kit myself and it cost me just over £100 from Spare Part Store 24. The correct Sachs clutch kit part number for the 525i is as follows: 3000 133 002. The kit includes the pressure plate, the clutch disc and the release bearing. Then for the clutch slave cylinder, there's really a big choice of quality brands, anything from Bosch and TRW to Sachs and Brembo. However, since I went with Sachs for the clutch kit, I decided to stick with it and go for the same make for the clutch slave cylinder. Sachs part number for the slave cylinder is: 6283 600 105 If the price from BMW was decent, then I would've gone for genuine, but they wanted something like 120 pounds, when I got Sachs for 40 quid. In case if you need BMW's part number for the slave cylinder, it is: 21526775924 The same goes for the propshaft rubber guibo, behind the gearbox - I checked the price with BMW and it was something in the region of £200 (part number: 26117511454), when I managed to get a Ruville (OEM brand) guibo for less than 40 pounds. Ruville's part number is: 775031. And the last thing that I bought from Spare Part Store 24 was the centre propshaft bearing, which came complete with the mounting. Unfortunately, no OEM makes were available for this part and I had to go for Febi (part number: 02823), so I'll have to wait and see how good it's going to be. BMW was not an option (genuine part number: 26121226723), since they wanted something ridiculous, like £180 for the part, while I got Febi for just under £20. You might think that you're buying an inferior part, but you'll be surprised to know how much BMW marks up the parts they sell just for the privilege of having their badge on them... So that was all that I ordered from Germany and the rest of the parts were bought from BMW directly. What I ordered from my local dealer is everything that you can either only get from BMW and nowhere else, or I decided to go with genuine parts, because the prices were very reasonable, such as for the gearbox mountings, which I'll talk about further down below. Starting with the clutch pressure hose and the pipe, the hose was £55 and the pipe was £22, which comes in exact shape that it has to be, so there's no bending required or any messing around with it. A perfect example of how some stuff is reasonably priced from dealers. Clutch pressure hose: 32101157375 Clutch slave cylinder pipe: 21521159619 And there are x2 metal clips, which are for each end of the pressure hose, so I would advise getting them, in case yours are rusty or might break. Part number: 34341163565 Then moving onto the clutch area, it's advisable to replace the clutch fork, the spring clip for it and the ball pin. Chances are, it's all probably in decent condition, but you really wouldn't want to take the gearbox out again for the sake replacing something silly like that, if it causes trouble in the future. I also got the x6 bolts for the pressure plate as well, which ideally should be renewed with every clutch change. Clutch fork: 21511223302 Release spring clip: 21517570284 Ball pin: 21511223328 x6 Pressure plate bolts: 07129903984 The ball pin is a weak-looking, rubbery plastic thing, which I read that often gets replaced by stainless steel, aluminium or bronze units for better reliability and extended life-span, but I'm sure if you are running the normal clutch with no modifications, then the stock item should do the job just fine. The gearbox mounts, which I mentioned earlier, were unbelievably cheap - the front ones, which are identical to each other were £15 each and the rears, which are left and right sided, were only £12 each. You wouldn't think you were buying BMW parts at those prices... x2 Front gearbox mountings: 24701138435 Left gearbox mounting: 24701138427 Right gearbox mounting: 24701138428 Bear in mind, the above parts are for the manual 5-speed ZF gearbox, S5D310Z. Now the gear linkage, which depending on how "enthusiastically" your E34 was driven over the past 20-25 years, it could be completely knackered with your gear lever all over the place, or it could be like mine, which still feels ok, but I would rather get it all renewed, while I'm there. The best thing to do is to replace whatever bushes, mountings and joints are there, so you'll know that everything is 100%. That being said, here's what you need: Bush: 25117507695 Mounting bearing: 25111220707 Gear lever: 25111221779 Bearing: 25111220600 x4 Washers: 25111220439 x2 Clips: 25117571899 Joint: 25117503525 Pin: 23411466134 Tension clip: 25111203682 One thing I'd like to mention, if you have a look at the gear linkage diagram here > https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=HD52-EUR-09-1992-E34-BMW-525i&diagId=25_0025 You'll see that I made a mistake of ordering the item 20 (washer), which actually comes already installed with the joint (item 14), so just a heads up for those who are going to renew their linkage not to bother with that part. The linkage parts overall come up to around £170, so it's not too bad, considering you do it once in 20 years. And finally, a few exhaust brackets that I bought since mine that support the catalytic converter are quite rusty, so will be replacing them, when we take the exhaust off. It's a good idea to renew the catalytic converter gaskets (18301716888 - x2) along with 6 copper nuts (18301737774 - x6) to avoid any exhaust gas leaks later down the line. The rest of the parts below are just various brackets, bolts, washers and nuts for the catalytic converter support on the front, so again, it's better just to renew everything, as the parts are not expensive and will last a long time. Holder: 18211723375 Exhaust support: 18321728316 Bolt x2: 07119913676 Rubber washer x4: 18207546579 Washer x5: 33311108205 Nut x2: 07119905515 Clamp: 18211176717 Bolt: 07119912535 Bolt x2: 07119904146 That should be everything for now. Just need to remember to buy some Pagid DOT4 fluid to change the clutch fluid, as we haven't done that yet, but apart from that, I think I've got it all covered. The work will probably be done sometime in August, so will make sure to take a few photos during the repair and update the thread with the progress. Note for myself: need to look into replacing the ignition coils, as the car misfires occasionally and hesitates at lower revs. Check for vacuum leaks, maybe fuel pump, MAF and lambda sensor. The cat still rattles sometimes, so need to get that Klarius unit along with the Jetex cat-back exhaust system. Thanks for following and any tips appreciated.


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