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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/19/2018 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Ah the good old days when a three series needed a bag of cement in the boot during icy conditions to prevent visits to the ditches. As Monty Python would have observed, "Try telling that to young folks nowdays and they won't believe you"
  2. 4 points
    Well the 535d was chopped in for a new XC90 nearly a year ago.. And we are loving it.. No where as fast but overall for our needs the better car. Vast boot, space, stunning design and loads of kit. But only if it had that 3.0 twin turbo..... Anyway my 2014 GTD of 4 years post mapping it to circa 240bhp (crazy fun) had been chopped in for a....... Sorry...... MERCEDES-BENZ. A car with the longest name ever... MERCEDES C250D 4Matic Premium Plus AMG line Midnight edition wagon. 18 months old. And again, loving it. Stunning interior and exterior, mapped to 250bhp with 550nm. It goes very well. Sub 6 at the lights and a ball hair under 50mpg on the run to work and back. The Burmester speaker package (£3k option alone) blows anything I have heard out of the water. If you get a chance try it. I did try to buy a 335d touring but I just couldnget along with the low rent interior and with the new 3 about to launch it felt like the old car it is. Also trying to bundle up all the option I wanted was impossible. Merc does make it easier with the Premium plus pack... Pretty much everythings included.
  3. 4 points
    Had my first ever breakdown in any car that I've owned in the last 10 years and was a bit, erhmm, surprised, to say the least.....Well, it was kind of my fault, so can't really blame anyone else. I mean, how long do you expect a fuel pump to work on a 25 year old car and god knows, if it has ever been changed? My only excuse is that this just happened out of nowhere, really....If I would've had any kind of obvious symptoms recently, then I would've known what to expect, but it just randomly died. Have to admit, the car sputtered and cut out on me in traffic few months ago, but then it started right back up and has been fine ever since, so I didn't really think much about that incident....Anyway, lesson learned. Here's my taxi below: Long story short, I'm a bit of an idiot for completely forgetting about the fact that after all the work that I've done on the car, I've missed the fuel pump and should've replaced it loooooong time ago to avoid this silly situation. Luckily, it was a nice sunny afternoon and I was in my local area driving around 20 mph when the car all of a sudden lost power, stopped reacting to the accelerator pedal and gradually came to a halt on a residential road. Tried starting it again, but it would just crank without firing up. I managed to push it away from the road and park it in a bay until a colleague of mine recovered me to a friend's house the next day. A bit of an inconvenience, but I appreciate that it could've been a lot worse, such as cutting out at 70 mph in the outside lane of a motorway at 3am in the morning, on the way to the airport! Touch wood, I always look after my cars well and such things don't normally happen with me, so this incident definitely took me by surprise. IMPORTANT: It's recommended to have 1/4 full tank of fuel or even less, if possible, when replacing the fuel pump, as it will make a lot easier removing the pump since you'll have a clear view of how it's fitted in the tank. The fuel pump on the E34 is located under the carpet, in the boot and there's a black cover held by 5 screws that you have to remove to access the pump. Once you've removed this cover, you'll see the top of the fuel pump assembly, which has a plug connected to it and 2 fuel hoses, as below: To remove the plug, you need to slide the metal bracket away from the connector while simultaneously pulling the plug outwards. As for the fuel hoses, unless you have the special tool for removing/locking those fuel hose clamps, it's advisable to have some replacement BMW jubilee clips/hose clamps (part number: 07129952104) before you start undoing those. Also have some cloths/towels ready, as some fuel will spill out and you don't want to make a mess. Make sure to clean up all the dust and dirt around the assembly, because once you've removed the cap, then it could all go into the fuel tank, which obviously you want to avoid. You'll have to gently tap the black cap with a flat screwdriver and a hammer in an anti-clockwise direction, because there's no way of undoing it by hand. Once you have unscrewed it, you'll have to move the fuel sender part of the assembly out of the way (the white part) and reach into the fuel tank with your hand to unclip the pump assembly from its bracket located in the tank. It is a bit fiddly, but this is the reason why you should have a minimum amount of fuel in the tank, because otherwise you won't be able to see how the pump is held in place or how to remove it. There are basically 2 tabs on the assembly that you push inwards and then pull the pump up from the bracket. See the photos below of the whole assembly removed to get a better idea. Notice those tabs on each side of the fuel pump assembly, which is what you squeeze inwards from the top to release the pump from its bracket in the tank. Also see how all the clips used around on the assembly are special hose clamps. There's no need to replace these, as long as you have the right tool for unlocking/securing them. Remember how everything is connected, so depending on which replacement fuel pump you get, you'll know how to correctly re-connect it all back together. The thinner/smaller stud on the pump is Positive (+) and the larger one is Negative (-). You won't have to worry about replacing the fuel pump filter separately, as usually they come together with replacement fuel pumps, so that's one less thing to worry about. However, if you don't have it, then make sure to get a new one, as it wouldn't make sense to go through all this work and re-use an old filthy filter. Depending on what manufacturer you go for when buying your new fuel pump, you may have to do a bit of extra work and it won't always be a straight swap-over. For example, the pump that was fitted on my car was made by Bosch and in the past, you could simply buy just the pump itself, without any other accessories, and replace it hassle-free. You would have to separate it from the inner housing, but that's about it - see the pics below. Checking the above part number, you can no longer buy this exact Bosch fuel pump, because it has been superseded by a newer unit, which comes complete with a plug on top and a wiring kit, meaning you'll have to mess around with the existing wiring of the pump assembly to crimp in new pins, so then you can push them into the new connector and plug it into the pump......Not the best scenario, but if I was to go with a Bosch replacement, then it would have to be part number 0580314123, as per the photo below: As you can see, it is supplied as a complete assembly with the filter and the inner/outer housing, along with 2 pins and a connector. Like I said earlier, the downside to this is that you'll have to modify the wiring, which I didn't want to do, so I decided to go for an alternative make. For your info, you can get an equivalent pump to the original Bosch one that was fitted on my car, i.e. with the studs on the top, but then it would be an inferior quality make and probably wouldn't last long. Luckily, another OEM alternative to Bosch is a Pierburg pump (part number: 7.21913.50.0) , which actually comes with studs on top, meaning it's just plug and play without any need to modify anything. It was readily available from EuroCarParts, so I got it straightaway and here's how it looks like: When I opened the box, the part number on the actual pump was different from what was on the label, but after checking the part numbers in the Pierburg's parts catalogue, everything matched fine - for your info, 7.21833.51 is an old number (stamped on the pump) and has been replaced by 7.21913.50.0 (on the box). After finally doing all the research and purchasing the right fuel pump, it was just a matter of putting everything back together and starting the car. You will have to re-use the outer part of the pump bracket, which fits over the new inner bracket of the replacement pump. There's only one right way of fitting it, so you can't really get it wrong - just pay attention to how it's installed, when you are removing it from the old pump. Then you'll have to re-connect the wires to their studs (positive/negative) and secure them with washers/nuts. One hose goes on the pump that supplies the fuel into the engine and the other one connects to the outer bracket, which is the return fuel line. Again, pay attention not to confuse them and replace the hose clamps, as required. All done, ready to be fitted: The installation is the reverse of removal, so make sure that the black part of the pump assembly properly clicks into place in the fuel tank, then carefully put the fuel sender back in as well and install the black cap with a few light taps of a flat screwdriver + hammer. Secure the fuel hoses, re-connect the plug and you are done! Started the car, it ran perfectly fine and I haven't had any problems since. Still can't believe that this actually happened to me, considering all the things that I've taken care of, but like I mentioned earlier, totally forgot about the fuel pump. Funny enough, I did replace it as a precaution on my previous car, an E30, but for some reason it slipped past me on the E34. Well, what can you do? Have to say that I've noticed a significant difference of how the car pulls away and gathers speed, so it seems like the old pump did work, but it was definitely weak. It's now a lot more responsive and smoother and there's no hesitation in the lower revs. A happy ending overall. Apart from this, not much happened lately. Still haven't fitted the replacement second-hand rear window regulators that I bought back in August, so that most likely will be the next job, but otherwise if anything else comes up, you'll be first to know. Thanks for reading.
  4. 4 points

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Routine wash and replaced one of the door kick plate. Working with Mr Dennis Cooper to do a audio overhaul, watch this space! Just realised from the pictures my driver side headlight isn't working...time to check it out!
  5. 3 points
    Front alloys off today and front brake calipers painted Hammerite satin silver; rear wheels will be off tomorrow during the brake overhaul, so will paint the rear calipers and brake disc hats satin black tomorrow, whilst the 7 is on the ramps (smaller discs/pads, so hiding their features) Plus will be fitting 12mm black Bimecc spacers on the rears too. Brake overhaul & other parts all laid out in the garage ready to be boxed and into the car tomorrow, before off to my pals to get it all fitted, items are as below: Front Mtec 348mm C Hook discs with EBC Yellowstuff pads Rear OEM discs (already fitted; 150miles before I bought the car, so they're as new) with OEM spec Mintex pads (to be fitted) Red HEL braided brake lines all round Motul Dot 5.1 brake fluid Meyle brake pad wear sensors front & rear Bimecc 12mm hubcentric spacers all round (silver front, black on rears) Moog drop links all round Will get pics up of it all tomorrow
  6. 3 points

    E39 530i Sapphire Black (GBS Project)

    Thought it was about time I started a projects blog! My E39 was bought from @d_a_n1979 who took care of it at no expense and hoping to carry on the great work. Next on the to do list is to do a audio overhaul with the help of @DennisCooper who has been super helpful, so watch this space! Few initial pictures:
  7. 3 points
    60 mile trip around the M25 to Enfield this morning to get the cluster pixels sorted by Baris of Carphonics. The top line was not too bad but the lower one was impossible to read. Top bloke, highly recommended.
  8. 3 points

    top up coolant or change?

    N47 is unaffected because the timing chain breaks before the EGR cooler leaks
  9. 3 points
    Here's the Mercs detailing video by a mate who did the ceramic coating on it.
  10. 3 points

    2004 E61 545i 6 speed £2,500

    Hi Richard, Loved the car, after viewing this morning. Liking the lump.
  11. 3 points
    Driver's seat is done, all that's left is the seat backs, rear headrests and the rear armrest.
  12. 3 points
    When I removed the UK rear plate from the Diamantschwartz Eta: The fixing holes were 230 mm between centers: Which fitted into the OEM holes which were fitted with two Plug in Nuts (part number item 14: I went to the main stealers who sold me a North American license plate holding frame (part number Which had fixing holes that were also 230 mm between centers: Which bolted up into the original OEM holes: Into the existing plug in nuts: Onto which the Nova Scotia plate fitted: I am blown away that a 1987 set of OEM license plate fitment holes for a UK spec car also appears to be a universal international fitment methodology that still works with a North American license plate 31 years later. How cool is that No requirement to drill any new holes (rust traps) into the body just a bolt off - bolt on direct replacement Regards, Mick
  13. 2 points
    Its an abandoned BMW 635i – currently scheduled for destruction L I am putting it here incase anyone is looking for one as it will now go to auction I have watched this car for a nearly a year sitting in a local multi story car park, and as time went by it became clear no one was coming back for it and it wasn’t a commuter parking in the same spot every day. It’s a B plate 635 in white with blue leather sports interior , auto, 16” crossspokes and in generally very good condition. There is a line of feint rust bubbles around the sunroof and some here and there but it’s by no means a shed. Infact if you didn't know it looks like it could be jumped in and driven away . Sadly the story goes the owner is not of this world anymore and never returned to get his car and despite numerous efforts from others and councils to find out if there are any family etc there is no one coming forward to claim it so it now has a ‘ Scheduled for Destruction’ notice on it. To try and avoid this happening I have tried to see if it can be saved and although the local council only authorise its removal . The contractor who lifts it will sell it online as it has a decent value …. the company is called Raw2K and this car could be on their website in the next couple of weeks Could be a cheap sharknose 6'er for someone ! I will get pics over weekend of it .
  14. 2 points
    Doesn't matter if the driver's got no fucking brains and there will always be some for whom the law only applies to the 'little people', not them.
  15. 2 points
    Also clean the cowls under pollen filter housings with compressed air. All it needs is a few leaves to block the small drain holes at the bottom. If water accumulates there it can be sucked in the brake booster and eventually even into engine via vacuum line. When you install the housings back remember to put the outer corner of the housing first under the panel coming from windshield.
  16. 2 points
    Sold to a couple of real car enthusiasts. I hope it’s good fun for you. Hope you get sorted Gareth, the car is staying pretty local so you may get another chance in the future.
  17. 2 points
    Sentence isn't long enough IMO What's needed to make people realise that using their phones is not legal and not allowed? I see so many folk on a daily basis completely ignoring the fact that what they're doing is illegal and I'll let the fuckers know if I see them too! Probably not wise; but I can hold my own... And, without aiming to tar or stereotype (or open a can of worms); it's 9/10 van drivers...
  18. 2 points
    Steer clear of Bridgestone Blizzaks. I ran them a couple of winters ago and was not impressed. C.
  19. 2 points

    Options - BMW Connected

    RTTI and display key will work without any further options. Remote parking is a option on top of the display key (key is different, has an extra parking Button on the side) enhanced bluetooth is a complete waste of time. All functionality can be coded, wireless charging can be retrofitted and the hotspot is slow and expensive- your Mobile will do a better job as a hotspot 9/10 times
  20. 2 points
    In my old workplace there were a few BMWs and even a Porsche abandoned in its multi-storey car park: no idea how they got rid of them when the place was sold but in the dirt on the screen of the E34 525i that was there, someone wrote "could be terrorists". I nearly wrote Baader Meinhof Wagen in response on the glass - except the age profile of the place meant that nobody would have known who Baader and Meinhof were...
  21. 2 points
    Finally got round to getting and installing a dashcam (Aukey DR02 D):
  22. 2 points
  23. 2 points

    2004 E61 545i 6 speed £2,500

  24. 2 points
    Taffy 1

    Supplier of SI board batteries

    There were three types- two re-chargeable of different physical sizes and one type non-chargeable lithium. First two types 1.2v NiCad up to1986, 3v lithium thence. I've had all three types in my hands and replaced them all. Be careful.
  25. 2 points