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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/01/19 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Interesting post, this is a real minefield. I have a similar issue myself, I've replaced thermostats/glow plugs, cleared codes etc trying to get my DPF to 'behave' normally, but I'm still none the wiser. I managed to force a regen a couple of months ago but since then (2k miles) it hasn't done another. I also have blanked swirl flaps and have been told that could be the culprit, but I do hardly any town driving (my average speed is over 40mph.) So having spent 18 months since buying the car worrying about the DPF, I'm now just going to enjoy driving the car and worry about it when something actually goes wrong.
  2. 2 points
    edd_jedi

    Battery replacement needs coding?

    That's the problem with the internet, there is just as much bad advice as good. When my IBS failed I was told by several people it was a waste of time fixing it, they had no idea what they were talking about.
  3. 2 points
    fosterclose

    Battery replacement needs coding?

    Hi, I have just had an adventure with a similar issue, I got the restraint and airbag warning out of the blue. I checked battery and Alternator but my kit was not sophisticated enough to confirm which was at fault. As the car (E60 545i 2004) is getting on I decided to go with the battery first. I checked out multiple forums and the advice was mixed around coding, especially if you were installing exactly the same battery. I went ahead without coding but the problem remained. I had the alternator checked by an indie who advised it was on its way out. I had it replaced, drove home and 2 hours later the warning came back. I took the car back the following day and looked at battery charge, it was fluctuating wildly so the guys took it to check in case the new alternator was playing up. I did mention coding as I did when it first went in. The guys did all of the relevant checks and as a last resort they coded the battery. Surprise Surprise the problem disappeared and she is running really well. The moral of the story, always go for coding, or better still be advised by the lads on here. My advice came from the states mainly
  4. 2 points
    gaza01

    Build 2

    Haven't updated here for a while but have been collecting a few bits here and there. I had e34 m5 calipers and carriers that i sourced 3 year ago when i started building the bronzit e28. Cleaned them up and got them into primer. Also primed the brake disc centres. Nothing worse than when they go all rusty
  5. 1 point
    RichardP

    E34 M5 Touring restoration

    I first bought a BMW nearly 30 years ago, that was an E30 325i Touring and since then I’ve had an E36 328i, E46 330i and E46 330d Tourings. My current BMW’s are all M cars, but I miss not having a Touring. There are only 2 official BMW M car Tourings, the E34 M5 and the E61 M5, neither were built in large numbers. My preference has always been for a manual gear box, so in late 2015 I started looking for a decent E34 Touring that was fundamentally sound but maybe needed a little work. The problem is that the E34 Touring is a very usable vehicle and most E34 M5’s have been used, a lot. There are very few about that have done less than 100,000 miles, most have done significantly more. I looked at a few but none met my criteria and most had significant rust on the main chassis. A rare manual 4.6 E34 Alpina Touring that had been restored was for sale in Germany and I briefly contemplated that as an alternative. Many would argue that it’s a better car than the E34 M5, the Alpina modified V8 being much more flexible, having similar power but more torque than the rather highly strung 3.8 version of the straight 6 S38. But for some reason there is something I prefer about M cars to Alpinas, can’t put my finger on it but the Alpina was not for me. There is also some sense of destiny with the evolution of the initial M88/1 in the M1 and it’s final evolution of the S38B38 in the E34 M5. By mid 2017 I’d just about given up hope of finding a suitable E34 M5 Touring and started looking at the E61 M5 instead. Obvious benefits were that it was available in right hand drive and is a more modern car. Then there is that V10 engine, but there is also that gearbox! There was a low mileage, high spec car for sale not very far from me, so I arranged to go and look at it. While I was in the car on the way, my phone rang. Someone had found an E34 Touring that was not ‘officially’ for sale, but it would be open to sensible offers. I went ahead and looked at the E61 anyway, it was in very good condition and had obviously been well looked after, the owner had several other very nice cars including a Ferrari Daytona in their garage. However, with the prospect of a suitable E34 with a colour scheme I wanted (Avus Blue silver accents and black interior) and the E61 with a colour and interior that is probably my least favorite (Silverstone with Silverstone interior), I decided not to go down that route. My first sight of BL01698 was just via some pictures taken by a friend who lived nearer to it than me. Initial looks made me wonder if this would be a good choice after all! I had been told that it was a 6 speed car, actually it’s the earlier 5 speed version. The mileage was more than I’d been told, but still low at a little over 77,000. Apparently the car had had a minor scrape down the passenger side, then been left awaiting repair. The minor scrape was not quite as minor as I had hoped and a lot of the ancillary components were looking decidedly crusty. The interior was reasonable, except for the front seats that were showing quite a lot of wear and has some strange scratches, as though someone had been wearing a studded belt or something similar. On the plus side, maybe the 5 speed box is not a bad thing, they are readily available if something does go wrong with them, unlike the 6 speed which is pretty much unique to the E34 M5. Some reports also claim that the earlier 5 speed is nicer to drive. The car has Hi-Fi speaker system and full leather dash which makes the interior feel a bit more special. It also has a factory fitted tow hitch which was one of the things I really wanted, the tow hitch mounting was a little scabby though. The engine had had major a rebuild quite recently, so the internals would not need any work at all even if it looked pretty scabby on the outside. A closer inspection of the vehicle chassis revealed that it was mainly in pretty good condition. The decision was made; BL01698 would undergo a total restoration by Munch Legends. Pretty much everything was stripped off the car, engine, sub frames, fuel tank, heat shields, sun roof, doors, tail gate, front wings and ancillaries in the engine bay etc. One of the front wings was a little rusty and the two passenger side doors were damaged enough to warrant replacement. On examination at the body shop it was decided that the cost of replacing the driver’s side doors and other front wing would cost little more, possibly less, than prepping the originals. The entire underside, including the inner front wings, was bag sealed. The original active shock absorbers were sent to Poland to be refurbished, the rest of the suspension components, drive shafts, brake dust shields, and sub-frames etc. were either replaced or refurbished and powder coated. The diff was rebuilt and painted where appropriate. All brake calipers were rebuilt and passivated, along with all other unpainted underbody components. Most of the rubber and trim pieces were replaced where still available from BMW. All engine covers, plenum, water pump etc. were vapor blasted and repainted where required. Brake lines, fuel lines, fuel tank and all clips etc. were replaced. The fitted Powerflow rear silencer was replaced with an OEM part. The wheels on the car were rather nasty two piece after market design and the outer rims were badly corroded. There were replaced with the correct M5 Throwing Star wheels with new Michelin Pilot Sport 4 tyres. The sun roof was jammed pretty much solid, but eventually opened up to allow refurbishment. Most of the work on the chassis and running gear is now complete, there are still a few bits and pieces left to sort out. The tailgate needs fitting and the sun roof is in pieces awaiting reassembly and refitting. The interior has not been touched yet, apart from removing parts to allow for removal of the sun roof cassette and facilitate other work. I have quite a few pictures of the work being done, for now I’m just going to post a comparison of some of the original pictures and the same area as it is now, plus of couple of the whole car and underside. Please remember, this is still work in progress. And a couple of pictures as she stands now
  6. 1 point
    edd_jedi

    What do you think of BMW 530D AUTO E60?

    I love the way it drives, smooth and quiet. I owned two E39s before this and the people who claim the E39s cabin is nicer are simply wrong. It feels like a much more modern car. Saying that, I have had pretty much every 'textbook' E60 problem going - water leaks in boot, diversity antenna, MULF, battery/IBS, glow plugs/controller, thermostats, swirl flaps, and of course the dreaded DPF. On the plus side, sorting (nearly) all of it has been quite rewarding and has taught me a lot about the car. Plus the truth is I quite enjoy tinkering with it. In summary - the E60 is a 15 year old executive car, you can't buy one for a tenth of its original sale price and expect it to give you trouble free motoring.
  7. 1 point
    edd_jedi

    Battery replacement needs coding?

    I used this free software to register my new battery last year: http://bimmersoftware.com/bmwlogger-2 All you need is a DCAN cable. It's a very basic app but the great thing for me was it runs on Mac natively, no need for a VM like most BMW software
  8. 1 point
    d_a_n1979

    Discs / pads / sensors - cost?

    If RealOEM say that you’ve the larger discs, that’s what you’ll have and need to buy Have you used your VIN on RealOEM?
  9. 1 point
    d_a_n1979

    E39 wheels and tires

    18s for the best handling IMO, 19s for the best of looks and handling... Not 20s please, they’re not right at all OEM Style 42s, 32s or 37s look spot on obviously, but the worlds your oyster and all dependent upon budget Don't forget, the E39 has a 74.1 central bore, so the alloys need to match this, or you can use 74.1 to 72.6 hub centric adapter spacers if you go for other BMW alloys. Offset needs to be between 10 and 20 ideally
  10. 1 point
    gazzago

    F10 530D Diagnostic tool?

    My Carly isn’t subscription. Just bought the dongle from their web site then got the app from the App Store. A few pounds for some extras if you if you want them but that’s it. It is basic compared to inpa etc but it’s easy to use.
  11. 1 point
    d_a_n1979

    Discs / pads / sensors - cost?

    Mtec do coated hubs for an additional price, or just paint them yourself with some Hammerite high temp paint, before they're fitted. This is what I've done on my 730D; had already painted the brake calipers in Hammerite HT silver, so did the same with the brake disc hubs, no more rust
  12. 1 point
    bmwmike

    Farewell and thanks

    I thought the 2.9 turbo was developed by ferrari and the version in the QF is the lowest power option... lovely looking car, either way. Edit to add agree it's a pointless discussion about engines. Each to their own etc. Personally IDGAF what anyone else on the Internet thinks about my real world choice of purchase and don't see why anyone else would either.
  13. 1 point
    Carrera77

    Twin Exhausts

    with a DPF, the car should have no soot stains. It is a soot filter after all Any diesel car that belches black smoke probably has its DPF removed or is pre DPF
  14. 1 point
    RichardP

    Intravee Switch Potential Fault

    The default setting for the switch is 2 A.I.-Net and one Aux port. So if it’s port 3 that’s not working it’s just a question of reconfiguring it when connected to an Intravee.
  15. 1 point
    That's them politely telling you to feck off! They obviously don't want the job. BMW online service quoted me £564 for front pads and discs on my F10. I paid £364 for the genuine pads, discs, and sensor from my local BMW dealer and I'll fit tomorrow. Here is my E60 front brake pads diy. ITs quite straight forward if you know which end of a spanner to hold.
  16. 1 point
    sjak92

    Farewell and thanks

    Again, I stand by the fact that I would prefer a 530d to my 520d, it is a better car overall, no arguments here. And yes there are times where I am driving and I mutter to myself that I wish I had gone for the 530d but then I remember that it would have cost me around £200 a month more and suddenly I'm ok with a 520d again. This is a pointless argument anyway. For me, a 520d does what I want it to do and I enjoy the car my thinking behind the purchase was that it will spend most of its time on a motorway during my rush hour commute, for that it has been perfect. If I want something to put my foot down in it would never be a 5 series diesel, hence I'm currently looking to get back into a E46 M3 before the price rocket like the E36 did. The Giulia Quadrifoglio is another great example of downsizing. A 2.9 heavily turbocharged V6 when Alfa could have easily borrowed a F154 V8 from Ferrari rather than develop a whole new engine V6 variant of the same engine
  17. 1 point
    Sensation of going over a rumble strip has been compared to a failing torque converter. These sorts of issues can be tricky to pin point. Get a trusted indy to look at?
  18. 1 point
    Tuvoc

    Discs / pads / sensors - cost?

    Or even for example 2 x Zimmerman from Germany at £85 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/382150500929?ul_noapp=true IF there is a fitment for your car.
  19. 1 point
    d_a_n1979

    Discs / pads / sensors - cost?

    None at all, why pay BMWs stupidly high priced? They’re still brakes and Brembo do a good job Check out the likes of Mtec brakes too, they do their own discs and pads as well as sensors, they’re very good and I’ve used them for years. The sensor via Meyle on eBay would only be a few quid IIRC, worth seeing what you can source there too (ATE do very good discs/pads) Just use RealOEM for your part numbers and search for those, then go from there
  20. 1 point
    gaza01

    Build 2

    Then tonight i purchased these beauties. I've been looking for a decent set for ages. Usually they are a bit tatty and have broken clips
  21. 1 point
    Deviant

    Battery replacement needs coding?

    They were taking the piss after the price of the app and the Bluetooth adaptor. But savings were made by buying and fitting the battery yourself and not having your pants pulled down by the main stealers and now I can do everything and not have to pay them any more money.
  22. 1 point
    GoNz0

    Battery replacement needs coding?

    Yes you need a dcan cable, cableshack who sell on the forum can help.
  23. 1 point
    apples12

    Service intervals

    Yup this is the interval on my 520d N47 However... I have it maintained at BMW as per their schedule but every 10k miles it gets an oil and filter change - roughly every 4-5 months Now at 125k miles and still going strong, some preventative maintenance coming up (accessory belt, tensioner, water pump, vibration dampener pulley, thermostat and coolant) once the egr recall has been done and I'm hopefully good for another 100k!
  24. 1 point
    gazzago

    F10 530D Diagnostic tool?

    Carly for BMW is an option. Thus uses your phone and a dongle you must buy from them. Costs around under £100 all in. Very compact and easy to use. I used to use INPA etc but this does enough for me now.
  25. 1 point
    mez

    E34 M5 Touring restoration

    WOW!! Richard You are a very lucky man, I had one of these amazing machines a few years back & have to say I still miss it now. I paid 2600 for mine at a car auction drove it for 4 years & sold it for exactly double 5200 to a guy from Frankfurt who flew over & drove it back!! Fantastic restoration so far and good luck with the rest. Mark.


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