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Showing content with the highest reputation on 24/06/18 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    phaylock

    Best courtesy car ever!

    So I handed the car back on Thursday night and collected my very shiny and spotlessly clean 149000 mile f10 530d. Some comparisons with the 1700 mile 540i xdrive will be obvious here and others maybe less so. My car is an SE on 18inch wheels and the 540 was an msport on 19s. In terms of ride quality, the 540 was good but noticeably harder as you would expect. My car also has adaptive dampers so this also helps. Whilst far from objectionable, the 540 was not as comfortable and I definitely noticed bumps and potholes more. This is probably in large part due to the state of our roads but I'll not go there! Noise and general refinement are on a par with the f10 I would say. I find the f10 to be very well built and a very refined car anyway. Even after 150k miles! Interior wise, the 540i was high spec with a leather dash and high grade leather. Layout of everything was instantly familiar and not massively different. Jumping straight back into the f10 there were some differences. I would say the g30 is a bit more roomy inside but not quite as cosseting as the f10. I find the cabin on the f10 exceptionally good and feels I suppose a bit like a cockpit in terms of how close eveything is. I prefer the idrive screen being part of the dash in the f10 as opposed to the seperate screen on top of the dash in the g30. That being said, the idrive in the g30 is streets ahead of mine. I have CIC in mine and not NBT but it also seems a big step up from the NBT in my mates 2014 335d. All easy to access and noticeably hidef screen. The instruments on the g30 are also excpetional. All TFT and very modern. The biggest test was obviouslt the engine in the 540i. What a weapon! The 530d is hardly a slouch with a lovely fat slug of torque across the majority of the rev range but there really is no comparison. The max torque from the 540 is there virtually from tickover and the power builds in a very linear and predictable way all the way to the 7k rpm redline. God is it fast! Especially at national speed limit speeds. It would be very easy to get into a lot of trouble with this car and I think there would be very little on the roads which would see which way it went. I never got tired of planting it and listening to the noise. Fuel consumption wasn't great but then I was hardly driving sympathetically! Overall, seriously impressed with the car and a worthy upgrade to what i think is already a superb machine. Would I pay 60k for one? No even if I was in a position to do so but I would consider a used one in a few years. I would love to try the new 530d actually to see how that compares. Hope this is useful to those that requested a review. Happy to answer any other questions.
  2. 3 points
    Gave it a wash a couple of days ago - love Deep Sea Blue when clean, but doesn't work so well during the colder months IMO... (excuse the iPhone picture quality)
  3. 1 point
    domin8or

    Started wheel refurb

    Turbines back on while car sitting , I am refurbing my Type 66's going back to Silver as previous owner had refurbed them (using the term loosely) in Anthracite, which I think is not in keeping with the old school look.
  4. 1 point
    LukeH

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Gave the old thing a good seeing to around South Wales and Brecon area, I’d forgotten his good it was before the shimmy set in!
  5. 1 point
    Washed and waxed it tonight for the first time in a few weeks. I did find a couple of little rust spots forming too. Mainly on the A pillars and the leading edge of the roof. It's been crashed at least once in its life and it's at least 3 shades of blue. I know a good paint guy so I'm going to get a price on a blow over so the little flecks of rust and little dents can be sorted and it'll be one complete colour then too. Will also roll the back arches whilst I'm at it.
  6. 1 point
    stu08

    E39 Pre facelift steering wheel change

    Looking at the pic, one of the sockets appears to be blank, I can't see any pins. Could just be the way they're moulded. As far as I'm aware, dual stage has two connectors like yours. Single stage has one like mine.
  7. 1 point
    It won't start if outside temp is above +16 C. For test purposes you can disconnect outside temp sensor (under front bumper right side) so it will show -40 C. Check the Webasto status page when you active it from MID. It will first check glow plug resistance (flame detector query) because it also works as flame detector after glowing. If that query gives proper resistance it will start glowing and then pumping fuel.
  8. 1 point
    Tuvoc

    Which grade oil is best?

    I think the lines are a bit blurred between semi-synthetic and full synthetic in some cases. Full synthetic surprisingly may mean many things. I've seen Triple QX fully synthetic referred to as a "synthetic blend". It is a bit of a minefield which is why many people put their trust in major brands. Anyway, all the oils I've ever used have worked
  9. 1 point
    The g30 blues are pretty nice too!
  10. 1 point
    Deep Sea Blue was discontinued at face-lift I think and was only available in SE trim prior - great colour!!
  11. 1 point
    SuperDave

    Traction Control

    You know how to rock a Sunday, I'll give you that!
  12. 1 point
    That is a good colour, pity as you don't see many that colour.
  13. 1 point
    So - a couple of little jobs done on Grandad today. I hadnt been happy with the small patch of wear on the drivers seat for a while. Surprisingly, I managed to track down another seat which has no wear at all. That’s got to be rare for a cloth upholstered E34 now! Big thanks to Tim Pollock at Classic BMW Spares for that, and the good deal he did on it. The replacement seat needed a few bits swapped over from the old seat, as it didn’t have arm rests and mine has. A bit of messing about, and it was all done. I need now to give the entire interior a good valet, but it’s looking good I think. The other thing was an infill panel to go between the rear lights. I’m not 100% sure of this on this particular car, but it is a genuine BMW part ( thanks to Cotswold for a good price on this) and would have been an option when the car was new. I’m hoping to go down the clear indicator route soon too, so we’ll see. Right - Beer o’clock gentlemen!
  14. 1 point
    Dakota

    Door lock pin rattle - solved

    Ok, so that was an easy fix. Removed the door pin surround, they pop off easy enough with a trim tool, easier from.the outside of the car with the window down. Placed few small adhesive pads on the inside of it and popped it back on. Tested the bass, rattle 100% gone. Was so easy I did the passenger door as well. Happy days, I had actually turned the bass to me minimum to stop it before. Back to enjoying the music. Hope this helps.
  15. 1 point
    gombocza

    Which grade oil is best?

    BEST grade would be 0Wxx, but you can use 5W
  16. 1 point
    Well, rewired plug at headunit (wasn't easy as less than an inch cable left cut at plug ??), all sorted , rear parcel shelf & seats back in, happy chappy.
  17. 1 point
    As planned, I changed my differential, gearbox and power steering fluids yesterday, so here's a quick update of how it went. First of all, I had to do a bit of shopping and purchase all the required fluids, but it wasn't all so straightforward. The easiest part was the fluid for the differential, which should be 75W-90 (for open differentials), and I decided to go with Castrol Syntrax Long Life, because it's BMW approved, so can't go wrong with that. In my case, I needed 1.7L, so had to buy x2 1L bottles and had a bit left after we filled the diff. Now the gearbox fluid was the tricky part. According to RealOEM, the gearbox fitted on my car is S5D310Z, meaning S = manual transmission, 5 is the number of gears, D = direct gear, 310 is the max input torque in Nm and Z means made by ZF. To find out what's the correct oil that should be used in this gearbox, I decided to look it up in the ZF's list of lubricants in their catalogue here > https://aftermarket.zf.com/remotemedia/lol-lubricants/lol-en/lol-te-ml-11-en.pdf It's listed as "S5-31" and there are 2 recommended oils for this gearbox: BMW's oil (part number 23007533513) and Castrol Syntrans B 75W. Now it would be all well and good, if it wasn't for the red ATF label on the side of my gearbox and also the owner's manual recommending to use ATF for this gearbox. I was a bit confused by the fact that the gearbox manufacturer (ZF) and the vehicle manufacturer (BMW) were recommending different oils for the same gearbox? After spending a few hours digging around BMW forums, it turns out that initially as per ZF's catalogue, BMW used thicker gear oil (75W-80 or MTF-LT-2) for these gearboxes, but over time a lot of customers complained about hard gear shifts, especially in colder climates, since gear oil needs time to warm up before it can provide smoother shifting. As a result, BMW later switched to ATF, because it still provides required protection and lubrication for the gearbox, while the gear shifts are easy and smooth, regardless of whether the oil is hot or cold, because ATF oil is thinner compared to gear oil, so it works well in colder temperatures as well. Long story short, you can use either what ZF says in their catalogue or ATF as per BMW's recommendation, because both will do the job fine. There was an interesting discussion on Bimmer Forums a few years back on this topic, which you can read here > https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?958283-atf-or-mtf Myself, I made the choice to go with what the gearbox manufacturer recommends to use, so I went with Castrol Syntrans B 75W, despite the ATF label on my box. In my case, I needed 1.25L, so again had to buy x2 1L bottles. To be honest, I hardly noticed any difference myself after changing to Castrol B 75W, but it's summer now, so the temperatures are quite high - it might be a bit different during winter. And as for steering, you need to check what it says on your reservoir cap, so for me it was ATF. Essentially, you can go for any Dexron III ATF, but I wanted to find one, which was specifically equivalent to BMW's Dexron III, so the only one that listed BMW's actual part numbers was Fuchs TITAN ATF 5005, so I went with that. Various oil selector catalogues list that you need 1.2L for steering, so I bought x2 1L bottles, but strangely enough just one bottle was enough to fill the system - keep that in mind. Be sure to buy 2 replacement washers for the diff plugs (07119963355), as your existing ones will most likely fall apart, like mine did, and also get 2 new washers for the power steering hose (32411093597), which you'll have to remove to drain the PAS fluid. I actually bought 4 washers, as I thought we'd have to remove the top smaller hose on the pump as well (it has smaller washers - 32411093596), but undoing the larger bottom hose was enough to drain all the fluid out. Also bought a new BMW badge with the grommets for the bonnet, as mine was an aftermarket one with no edge to the letters. I didn't want to waste my time going to BMW for the sake of a few washers and a bonnet badge, so I thought I would treat myself and upgrade my tatty gear knob to a proper "M" one. Now the thing is that regular E34's never had a 5 speed "M" gear knob, because the only "M" gear knobs were for the M5's, but those were illuminated and I wanted just a basic one. Anyway, the non-illuminated 5 speed "M" gear knobs became a common thing starting from E46 and E39 models, although the very first time they were used on E36 318IS models. The correct part number that you need is: 25117503231. Some may say it's a bit pricy, but I got it for just over 50 quid from BMW. It has some weight to it and it definitely feels heavier compared to my old one. Wouldn't say it makes a world of difference, but it's a nice touch and it's easy to fit. You simply pull the knob up when in neutral, but be careful not to hit the rear view mirror or anything else for that matter, as they fit quite snug, so can be a bit stubborn to come off. Line up the new knob and just press it down until it clicks into place. Replacing the bonnet badge was also pretty straightforward, just use a plastic spreader to pop off the old badge, swap over the grommets and before putting the new badge on, apply a bit of grease on the 2 pins to help it fit smoothly. I've read that for the past 10 years, genuine BMW badges have always had black plastic backsides, but mine was chrome-silver, so either it was very old or just a eBay-special, although with a BMW part number on it. Pics below, old one out and the new badge fitted. Changing the diff fluid was a bit tricky, because the access to the filler/drain plugs is a bit of a pain. We had to remove the small crossmember from the front of the diff, so we could get more access to the filler plug and move the diff slightly to the left to have enough space for the socket/ratchet to fit on the drain plug. Make sure to change the washers on the plugs and possibly apply some PTFE tape to prevent leaks from the plugs in the future. Moving to the gearbox, it was all straightforward with loads of space for access, so no issues here. Notice the red ATF label on the side of the gearbox, which matches the gearbox oil recommendation in the owner's handbook that came with the car. As I explained earlier above, you'll be fine with either what ZF says (Castrol Syntrans B 75W) or ATF Dexron III. The drain plug on the gearbox had some sealing tape on it, so we also applied PTFE tape around it before putting it back in. It's so unusual for me to see a dry gearbox, because I remember the box on my E30 325i was pissing oil from everywhere... And finally the power steering oil. We undid the big banjo bolt on the bottom hose of the PAS pump and let the oil drain out. Then without running the engine, turned the steering wheel left/right a few times to make sure it all came out. Put the bolt back in, filled up with new generic ATF to flush the system, run the engine turning the wheel left/right, then drained it all out again. Replaced the washers on the banjo bolt, filled up the system with Fuchs TITAN ATF 5005 and repeated the bleeding for the steering, making sure the oil level was correct. Like I said earlier, for some reason just 1L was enough with the level being at maximum. After all the fluids were replaced, we checked underneath the car to make a list of parts that will be need for the clutch replacement, so apart from the obvious clutch kit, I will also be replacing the clutch fork + spring clip and pressure plate bolts, clutch slave cylinder + hose, the gear linkage with all the bushes, 4 gearbox mounts, propshaft guibo, centre propshaft bearing and the exhaust to gearbox bracket was a bit rusty, so going to change that as well. Will also renew the brake fluid for the clutch hydraulics. That should be it for now. This will probably be the last major service work required on the car, because I can't really think of anything else that we haven't done, so it will finally all come together. I'll get all the shopping done, making sure to check part numbers, etc, then will update this thread before doing any work. Any suggestions are more than welcome. Thanks for following.


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