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  1. 8 likes
    Anytime, I'm sure he has some pain left All finished today just need to source some arch liners and clips for the screen trim
  2. 5 likes
    Been at ignition festival all weekend awesome time.
  3. 4 likes
    Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
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    Hi guys, I managed to get a full day on this car so I have managed to get a lot done. The engine had been timed up at TDC and checked the timing up the top cams as well, all the timing is good. Next was to remove the chain tensioner from the o/s block to slack the chain off. Remove the x3 e10 bolts from the front of the chain to cam sprocket. Slack off all bolts to the cam shaft carrier and fully remove. Clean and mark in order the hydraulic rocker arms and remove. Remove all hydraulic lifters. Undo all the x14 head bolts which are very very tight! Here are some pictures: Then next was to dig out the engine hoist along with a head leveler to help with removal, the head split was then complete: And face of block cleaned up: Nice to see the coolant in the block is clean This is the offending glow plug broke/stuck in head grrrrrrr Next was to make sure no oil or coolant has leaked in to the head bolt threads, last thing you need is crap damaging your new bolts or the oil acting as a lubrcant causing false readings which could lead to head failer etc, again I work for a main dealer and do this sort of thing in my on private time so this is a standard procedure. Here we can see the threads covered in oil Threads flushed out and dried out A little clean of engine bay ready to pack away laptop and tools etc Next job is to find a place to carry out my head repair. Order parts from bmw. Might look at getting the turbo units rebuilt and injectors cleaned. Ryan.
  5. 4 likes
    Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
  6. 4 likes
    Popped into my brothers body shop to see how the cars coming along, dropped it in Monday for the front end to be painted as it's having m5 wings and bumper fitted , the previous owner must have had the front painted at some point because the bonnet was very patchy in the direct sunlight, mop and Polish tomorrow and fitting up on Saturday
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    Bloke at a horse race whispers to Paddy next to him, "Do you want the winner of the next race?" Paddy replies "No tanks, oi've only got a small yard." A coach load of paddies on a mystery tour decided to run a sweepstake to guess where they were going..... The driver won £52. Paddy finds a sandwich with two wires stickin out of it. He phones the police and says "Bejasus, I've just found a sandwich dat looks like a bomb." The operator asks, "is it tickin? Paddy says "No, OI tink it's beef" Joe says to Paddy: "Close your curtains the next time you're making love to your wife. The whole street was watching and laughing at you yesterday." Paddy says: "Well the joke's on them because I wasn't even at home yesterday" The Irish have solved their own fuel problems. They imported 50 million tonnes of sand from the Arabs and they're going to drill for their own oil... Paddy says to Mick - I'm ready for a holiday, only this year I'm going to do it a bit different. 3 years ago, I went to Spain and Mary got pregnant. 2 years ago I went to Italy and Mary got pregnant. Last year, I went to Majorca and Mary got pregnant." Mick asks - So what are you going to do this year?." Paddy replies, - I'll take her with me!" Paddy says to Mick, "Christmas is on a Friday this year" Mick says "Let's hope it's not the 13th." Paddy's in the bathroom and Murphy shouts to him. "Did you find the shampoo?" Paddy says, "Oi did, but it's for dry hair and I've just wet mine."
  8. 3 likes
    Guys, I have just spent 2 hours looking at my car. It is interesting. There are two parts in play here. Firstly, as you look at the car from the front, there is the deep hole underneath the right hand bonnet hinge (photographed above) There is a drain hole at the bottom of this deep hole that drains in behind the panel that we are all removing. That is how the water gets in there. If that hole is blocked from above, underneath the hinge, then standing water will collect there and its then in danger of getting into the car somehow. If the gully is not blocked, water will then drain down the gully and out of the hole, into behind the panel. If the panel then takes a big hit of dust and shite, there is very little chance of it draining away out the bottom of the panel. Then standing water collects and gets above the yellow grommet and hey presto, wet carpets. Secondly, above the top of the panel, inside the engine bay, there is another gully that is designed to take water down and in behind the top of the panel. Same issue if the bottom of the panel gets blocked. There is not much new in what I have said, but, for sure this is a design issue as there is sealant all over the inside of the panel where in fact there should be a small slot at the bottom that does not have sealant. Now, most of this is already known. I read the whole thread again and refreshed myself on it and its a really good thread. As regards my car. Its nearly three years old, has done 11k miles and sits in the garage for most of the year. I took my panel off, hoovered at the bottom of both the deep holes underneath the hinges and cleaned the mess behind the panel. Mine was nowhere near as bad as some of the pictures, very little crud and no tide mark on the yellow grommet. BMW, why oh why did you design a panel that has two gullies that feed water into it, then seal up the panel? Madness. I have decided not to modify my panel, but, routinely remove it and clean. If my car was outside most of the time, I would be doing one of the modifications seen in this thread. My pictures are below. Back of panel: Gully above panel which water slides down and goes in behind the panel (panel is fitted in this photo) Behind the panel, mine was really quite clean compared to others. That is not a tide mark showing but a shadow in the picture. The drain hole from the hinge hole above comes out just behind the black lug sticking out from the right hand side. You can poke your finger in it when the panel is off. EDIT - All of this was written before putting the panel back on. What a PITA that was for sure. You have to make sure the panel slots back up into the two rubber slots, one vertical and one horizontal. Before you put it back on, take a look and have a feel of the rubber slots, they are obvious when you have a feel where the panel needs to slot back into. Then once you know they are back in correctly (feel all round where the panel slots in and you will feel if there is a gap anywhere), then get the little plastic lug located, then put the four screws back in. Of course, one of my screws would not go in, so, panel had to come off and a slightly larger hole was drilled in the panel hole. Then back on for another go lol. All on now, with a very sore lower back and cuts all over the place on my hands and arms!!!! After experiencing the pain with getting the panel back on, I have cut a slot in the sealant at the bottom on the panel to aid water getting out as I dont plan to do this again!!!! (but I might get bored in 3 years time and do it again now I am an expert) As I have said before, I am very nervous with most things, especially a car thats still in warranty, so, quite pleased with myself for attempting and completing this!!!
  9. 3 likes
    Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
  10. 3 likes
    This morning's project - investigate/rectify autolights. 57 plate E61 SE Start point - Daylight, ignition on, DRL setting unticked, set lights to A... angeleyes + dipped beam on. Cover sensor - no changes. After a bit of reading from the posts in @Paris 530d thread ... I removed the cover (carefully), unplugged the round RLS unit (purple 3 pin @ 1 o'clock pos'n) then unclipped the RLS itself. This is simply press gently on the sliver flat spring retainer to move it slightly toward the glass, then use a small screwdriver to unclip the tip of the spring from the mounting plate (the plastic mounting actually adhered to the screen). Do the for both ends of the retainer spring then the RLS unit can be gently pulled away from the glass, taking care not to potentially damage the sticky gel pad. Hopefully it'll remain sticky and hopefully it'll remain on the RLS unit. Mine stayed on the glass but luckily appeared still clear, no bubbles and well positioned. I then used a multimeter to check for a change in resistance figures between sensor covered and exposed to light. With the unit complete and the meter set for 20k I was getting figures around 780 in light and 650 in dark and from that I assumed there was some function remaining. Then I chanced it and open the RLS case - one clip either side - there appears on optical sensor just south of centre and a ring of 6 or 7 IR sensors around the edge. With no obvious failures, burning, corrosion, etc I carefully wiped over each sensor face with a clean, dry cloth, same for inside and out of the sensor 'lenses' in the cover, reassembled everything and refitted the unit to the screen using moderate pressure and a slight rotational movement to ensure good contact with the gel pad. Retested... ignition on, lights at A.... nothing ! Major downer! ... at this point, the passing Deutsche-Post lady pointed out that it's daylight... the lights are supposed to be off. In rapid recovery I then covered the sensor area with a cloth...2....3... AE + dipped beam on !! SUCCESS ! Happy teddybear !! Removed cloth....2....3.... light out ! Groovy baby !! Smug mode suitably engaged, I cleaned up and made a cuppa.... not a bad idea even if it was 33c at 10am.
  11. 3 likes
    Got my bargain of the day; set of steel winter wheels for the car (16") - with tyres, ContiWinter Contact, 2 of which are brand new & the other 2 need replacing in a few miles (3mm tread). £100 for the lot!
  12. 3 likes
    MOT'd - full clean bill of health, no advisories (well, bar the undertray comments as per the norm )
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    Ta-da! The first four pics are post-operation: wheels back on car, with new centre caps fitted and wheel nuts torqued to perfection. The following images (wheels off the car) show me mid-lacquering. PLEASE NOTE pro-level, gangster, old-school cardboard 'retirement bungalow' for my rear nearside during sudden Kentish downpour this arvo. Nothing stops Doc T! I hope you enjoyed the thread, my work, and the finished product. Woop woop.
  16. 2 likes
    I think you will find the cars are fine, however what has clearly been drummed into what sadly is the vast majority of drivers is simply that if they operate the stalk their arm will intermediately explode.so the people you see now that aren't indicating can't because they either only have one arm or are Sh** scared of losing one. Plus how can they then text and drive with only one arm....... HTH
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    The General must very understanding with all that devotion and pampering,
  19. 1 like
    Really enjoying this thread Ryan, thanks. A couple of questions for you please? 1. How did you clean the surface of the block without stuff dropping in all the various holes? 2. You mention you work for a dealer, is that BMW or another brand? 3. I worked on my car for two hours today and my lower back is very sore from leaning over the engine bay, I guess given you do this as a day job, there are no issues for you? Regards, Dave
  20. 1 like
    The block looks clean and impressed with the piston crowns.
  21. 1 like
    Looks great progress! I haven't done a cylinder head job for 14-15 years and an OHC one for longer than that. Not sure I'd have the bottle to do a job like this without someone more experienced to hold my hand! I do enjoy these repair and renovation threads though. Great pics too. Sent from my Vodafone Smart ultra 6 using Tapatalk
  22. 1 like
    Because that's how it plays out, all about one upmanship etc Nothings fair anymore It's like my game, is someones stronger than you, that's just the way it is. But a lot of folk can't accept that and then start smashing gear and then they completely obliterate that 'stronger person', but at what cost (physically and monetary)! The amount of times I've been accused of taking gear is laughable, they all call bullshit until either I or someone who knows me shows them my 240+ drug tests and all clean passes (blood tests and piss tests)! Probably ok if you're a pro and sponsored; but the lads I see in gyms that are hammering gear, when they've actually never tested their body to its fullest, natural abilities just makes me !
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    Hi, Just by taking off that rear wing thing, the looks would be much improved and also then stand a much better chance of being sold to a genuine collector/enthusiast for the sakes of 'BMW history'. The actual kits I believe were metal not fibreglass (I could be wrong?) and a proper zeemax conversion was done to high standards as well. When I had my E34, I really wanted a set of those MK Motorsport wheels as hardly any UK E34's had them, but I shelled out on a set of genuine ACS Type 3's instead. You could revert it back to standard but for 5-6K outlay there's plenty of still fairly decent E34's out there which could look fantastic with that amount spent on them. For this example M5, buying the car and then spending that money on it would be for those with very very deep pockets ! Cheers, Dennis!
  25. 1 like
    If it's new tyre time, that's the time to get them refurbed and the real question is do you paint them or powder coat them? But I appreciate it was easy for me as I have a second set of wheels. If you order up new tyres get them delivered to home, rock up at a one day refurb specialist who will then put the new tyres on the refurbed rims for you.
  26. 1 like
    I did some background work when we had to replace the battery in our 2009 120d and managed to code it in DIS but it wasn't particularly intuitive. I did feel a sense of achievement as it wasn't posted anywhere specifically for the E87. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  27. 1 like
    Yes, that's pretty normal, some light surface rust is to be expected so nothing to worry about. I'm expecting to do mine as it's been chirping for quite some time, but for the moment it's still working.
  28. 1 like
    Planning on this with the wife and kids soon! Less exciting motor of course...
  29. 1 like
    Another Triumph fan here. I've never considered myself a biker, I just like bikes. I passed in '91, mainly for practical reasons - bikes are cheaper to run than cars. I spent the next 7 years with a bike as my sole form of transport. Then I got fed up of frozen fingers and spilt diesel, and got a car. Later, I was able to afford both a car and a bike, and bought the one pictured. Sadly, ill health meant I had to sell it although I don't miss it, as each year there are more and more self-absorbed idiots on the road.
  30. 1 like
    Well it's like this so far ! Seriously it's a job I wish I never started, must say though learned a lot about my 5 series and how the panels fit together but her it is so far (still needs the surround to go on) but it's in and i didn't break anything, There was some cutting involved but as I've said this is the route I wanted to take to avoid loosing any other existing feature, update 2 to follow !
  31. 1 like
    chuck a shout out for one on the wanted section. that should help enjoy
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    Again some bedtime reading. CLICK
  34. 1 like
    Thule roof rack, Thule faring, Thule roof box. Mine is for practical reasons rather than cosmetic, though.
  35. 1 like
    If you definately don't have tweeters in the door sails then you won't have an amp, the speakers are fed via 4 channels direct from the head unit. So you can either buy a wiring loom from teamspb as linked above, this literally loops the 2 or 4 channels high outputs to and amp and then back to the speaker wires behind the head unit (no need to cut any wires) or you can cut the speaker wires where they meet the underseat subs and route to an amp and back. The key is that all front speakers (doors and under seat) are fed via the underseat subs, so this is where to pick up the high speaker inputs for an amp. To do this properly you need to feed the subs separately and use a 4 channel amp (assuming you are not upgrading the rear speakers) or a 6 channel amp to upgrade the rears as well. I am in the middle of doing this upgrade on my GT, so shout if you need any info. Ian